Deciduous · Full Sun / Part Shade
Mature size: 12m–15m high × 8m–12m wide
Prized for the evenness of its crown, which lets a planted row grow up matched, and for orange to brick red autumn colour that holds on the tree later into winter than most other ash.
Approximate only. Minimum height important? Confirm with us.
Height guide & disclaimer
Height guide disclaimer: Height ranges are approximate only. As living products, plant heights naturally vary between individual plants, batches, and seasons. No guarantee is given that supplied plants will fall within the stated range. If minimum heights are required, you must confirm current batch heights with Evergreen Trees Direct prior to purchase. Variation in height is normal and is not grounds for return, refund, replacement, or compensation.
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| Pot / bag size | Width | Depth |
|---|---|---|
| 30cm Pot | 33cm | 30cm |
| 40cm/45L Pot | 44cm | 41.5cm |
| 50cm Pot / 70L Pot | 55cm | 41.8cm |
| 100L Bag | 50.6cm | 52.8cm |
| 150L Bag | 66cm | 55cm |
| 200L Bag | 71.5cm | 60.5cm |
| 300L Bag | 88cm | 63.8cm |
| 400L Bag | 99cm | 66cm |
| 500L Bag | 122cm | 66cm |
| 750L Bag | 134cm | 69cm |
| 1000L Bag | 146.3cm | 71.5cm |
| 2000L Bag | 176cm | 82.5cm |
General planting reference from our existing size guide. Actual containers can vary by supplier and batch; confirm exact dimensions if required.
We supply advanced trees to landscapers, developers, architects, and councils Australia-wide. Trade clients receive fast quotes, expert advice, and access to premium stock with reliable freight.
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Enter the length of your boundary, then choose how closely you want to plant.
Enter your boundary length to see how many trees you need.
Measure only the boundary you intend to plant—exclude gates and gaps. Spacing is centre to centre. Quantities are rounded up for one row, allowing roughly half the spacing at each end. Site conditions and pruning affect the final hedge.
Fraxinus pennsylvanica 'Cimmaron' is a selected form of Green Ash: deciduous, with a symmetrical, broadly upright crown built on a straight central leader. The glossy dark green pinnate leaves turn orange to brick red in autumn, deeper than the plain yellow of most green ash, and hold on the tree later into winter than most other ash. Small purple flowers open on bare stems in spring.
It grows in full sun to partial shade and tolerates a wide range of soils, including compacted ground and sites that stay wet for short periods. Frost is not a problem, and established trees handle moderate drought and urban pollution. Growth is moderate to fast at 40 to 60 centimetres a year, with the crown forming evenly.
Mature dimensions of 12 to 15 metres tall by 8 to 12 metres wide suit parks, wide street reserves, car park islands and large gardens. The even crown is why councils specify it, since a row matches up rather than growing into a mismatched line. For public space it is a low input tree that delivers real shade.
Also sold as: Cimmaron Ash, Cimmaron® Ash, Fraxinus pennsylvanica 'Cimmzam', and occasionally spelled Cimarron. 'Cimmzam' is the registered cultivar name and Cimmaron is the trade name, so the two refer to the same tree.
Which ash should you plant? Cimmaron is the one for a matched avenue or street row, because the symmetrical crown means a planted line grows up even. Claret Ash 'Raywoodii' is the choice when you want the deepest purple-burgundy autumn display. Golden Ash gives yellow autumn colour and bright yellow winter stems. 'Urbanite' is the other green ash selection, broader and more pyramidal than Cimmaron.
About Cimmaron Ash
Cimmaron Ash is a named cultivar of Fraxinus pennsylvanica, the North American Green Ash, chosen for its uniform symmetrical shape and its autumn colour. Where the ordinary species turns yellow, this selection colours orange to brick red. It is a deciduous shade tree used mainly in streets, car parks and public open space.
Yes. 'Cimmzam' is the registered cultivar name and Cimmaron is the trade name it is sold under, so Fraxinus pennsylvanica 'Cimmzam' and Cimmaron Ash are the same plant. You will also see it written Cimarron with a single m, which is a common misspelling rather than a different tree.
Autumn colour and crown shape. Cimmaron colours orange to brick red and holds a notably even, symmetrical crown, which is why it is specified for matched avenues and street rows. Claret Ash gives the deepest purple-burgundy autumn display and a broader crown. Golden Ash turns clear yellow and carries bright yellow stems through winter. All three are deciduous shade trees of a similar scale.
It reaches 12 to 15 metres tall with a canopy 8 to 12 metres wide at maturity. That takes several decades in most Australian conditions. It is a genuine shade tree, so it needs open ground and clear airspace, not a courtyard or a narrow verge under powerlines. Site it with the mature width in mind from the start.
Growth is moderate to fast, around 40 to 60 centimetres a year while the tree is establishing its framework, then slower as it matures. Regular deep watering and a good mulch ring through the first three summers make the biggest difference. On compacted or unimproved ground expect the lower end of that range until the roots spread.
An established tree handles moderate drought and the dry, reflected heat of paved surrounds, which is why it is a common street tree selection. It is not a dry country species though, and prolonged drought without any supplementary water shows up as early leaf drop. Young trees need consistent watering for the first two to three summers.
It is one of the standard choices for these situations. The symmetrical form means a planted row grows up matched, the trunk lifts to give vehicle and pedestrian clearance, and the tree tolerates compacted soil, pollution and reflected heat. Give each tree adequate soil volume and keep it well clear of underground services and building footings.
Colour comes on through April and May in most districts, later in warm coastal areas. The glossy green foliage moves through orange to a deep brick red and holds for a few weeks before dropping, staying on the tree later into winter than most other ash. Cool nights and a bright, dry autumn produce the strongest colour, while a mild humid autumn gives a shorter, softer display.
Water deeply through the first three summers, mulch widely and keep turf and weeds off the root zone while the tree establishes. Prune in late winter when the branch structure is exposed, removing crossing limbs and lifting the lower branches gradually to the clearance you want. Mature trees need little beyond deadwood removal and clearing the autumn leaf fall.
| Mature height | 12m to 15m (approx.) |
|---|---|
| Mature width | 8m to 12m |
| Position | Full Sun / Part Shade |
| Growth per year | 40cm to 60cm per year (moderate to fast) |
| Frost | Frost Hardy |
| Foliage | Deciduous (Defoliates throughout colder months) |
| Form | Broad · Symmetrical |
| Uses | Shade Tree · Avenue Planting · Feature Tree · Rural Property Planting · Street Tree |
Deciduous (Defoliates throughout colder months)
Fraxinus pennsylvanica 'Cimmaron' is expected to grow 40cm to 60cm per year (moderate to fast).
Fraxinus pennsylvanica 'Cimmaron' works in an:
Fraxinus pennsylvanica 'Cimmaron' is an Deciduous (Defoliates throughout colder months) Tree
Mature Height: 12m to 15m (approx.)
Mature Width: 8m to 12m
Fraxinus pennsylvanica 'Cimmaron' is expected to grow 40cm to 60cm per year (moderate to fast).
Fraxinus pennsylvanica 'Cimmaron' is expected to grow 40cm to 60cm per year (moderate to fast).
They are considered to have a:
Is Fraxinus pennsylvanica 'Cimmaron' frost tolerant?
Fraxinus pennsylvanica 'Cimmaron' is Frost Hardy – Survives heavy and frequent frost without damage.
Fraxinus pennsylvanica ‘Cimmaron’ produces small, inconspicuous greenish flowers in spring. These modest blooms sit along the branchlets and play a quiet role in the tree’s seasonal cycle, with the ornamental focus placed instead on its lush summer canopy and brilliant autumn colour.
Does Fraxinus pennsylvanica 'Cimmaron' flower?
Flowering Period:
Flower Type:
Flower Colour:
Purple
No
Fraxinus pennsylvanica 'Cimmaron' is Native to Native to North America, where Fraxinus pennsylvanica grows along river plains and moist lowlands. ‘Cimmaron’ is a selected cultivar bred for its uniform shape, pest resistance, and extended autumn colour.
Its winged samaras provide food for seed-eating birds, while the broad, rounded canopy offers nesting, shade and shelter for small birds. The textured bark and deciduous leaf litter support insects and microfauna, enhancing biodiversity in woodland and large-garden plantings.
Fraxinus pennsylvanica 'Cimmaron' will thrive best in:
Fraxinus pennsylvanica ‘Cimmaron’ performs best in well-drained loam or sandy loam soils and prefers slightly acidic to neutral conditions. It may struggle in compacted clay or poorly drained ground unless improved with organic matter to enhance structure and aeration. Keep soil evenly moist during establishment, then shift to deep, occasional watering as the tree matures to support strong branching, reliable vigour and its standout red-orange autumn display.
Is Fraxinus pennsylvanica 'Cimmaron' Drought tolerant?
As a young tree it requires regular watering, and once established ‘Cimmaron’ develops moderate drought tolerance. It performs reliably in warm, dry and exposed conditions with deep, occasional watering during extended dry spells to maintain canopy density and vibrant autumn foliage.
Cimmaron Ash is a named cultivar of Fraxinus pennsylvanica, the North American Green Ash, chosen for its uniform symmetrical shape and its autumn colour. Where the ordinary species turns yellow, this selection colours orange to brick red. It is a deciduous shade tree used mainly in streets, car parks and public open space.
Yes. 'Cimmzam' is the registered cultivar name and Cimmaron is the trade name it is sold under, so Fraxinus pennsylvanica 'Cimmzam' and Cimmaron Ash are the same plant. You will also see it written Cimarron with a single m, which is a common misspelling rather than a different tree.
Autumn colour and crown shape. Cimmaron colours orange to brick red and holds a notably even, symmetrical crown, which is why it is specified for matched avenues and street rows. Claret Ash gives the deepest purple-burgundy autumn display and a broader crown. Golden Ash turns clear yellow and carries bright yellow stems through winter. All three are deciduous shade trees of a similar scale.
It reaches 12 to 15 metres tall with a canopy 8 to 12 metres wide at maturity. That takes several decades in most Australian conditions. It is a genuine shade tree, so it needs open ground and clear airspace, not a courtyard or a narrow verge under powerlines.
Growth is moderate to fast, around 40 to 60 centimetres a year while the tree is establishing its framework, then slower as it matures. Regular deep watering and a good mulch ring through the first three summers make the biggest difference.
An established tree handles moderate drought and the dry, reflected heat of paved surrounds, which is why it is a common street tree selection. It is not a dry country species though, and prolonged drought without any supplementary water shows up as early leaf drop.
It is one of the standard choices for these situations. The symmetrical form means a planted row grows up matched, the trunk lifts to give vehicle and pedestrian clearance, and the tree tolerates compacted soil, pollution and reflected heat. Give each tree adequate soil volume and keep it well clear of underground services and building footings.
Colour comes on through April and May in most districts, later in warm coastal areas. The glossy green foliage moves through orange to a deep brick red and holds for a few weeks before dropping, staying on the tree later into winter than most other ash.
Water deeply through the first three summers, mulch widely and keep turf and weeds off the root zone while the tree establishes. Prune in late winter when the branch structure is exposed, removing crossing limbs and lifting the lower branches gradually to the clearance you want.
Enquire for current heights
Approx. 1.6m – 4m
Approx. 2.3m – 3.6m
Approx. 3.6m – 4.5m
Heights are approximate and vary between individual trees.
We take pride in supplying A+ grade advanced trees. When stock at our farm is not yet ready, we work with our trusted trade suppliers to source the best available trees for your garden.
Enriched Planting Mix is a certified organic blend of Pure Magic Compost, composted animal manure, gypsum, composted coarse bark and a wetting agent, bagged in 30L. It is built to be dug through existing garden soil at planting time rather than used on its own, and the gypsum is what sets it apart from a plain compost.
Gypsum helps break up heavy clay so water and roots can move through it, while the compost and manure return organic matter and nutrient to tired ground. The coarse bark holds structure and keeps air around the root zone, and the wetting agent keeps moisture in the soil longer after rain or watering.
Use it when planting trees, shrubs, roses, fruit trees and exotic garden plants, particularly into clay. Dig a hole twice the width of the pot and 7 centimetres deeper, then mix roughly one third planting mix through the excavated soil. Spread 7 centimetres of that improved soil in the base before setting the plant in.
About Enriched Planting Mix
It is a blend of Pure Magic Compost, composted animal manure, gypsum, composted coarse bark and a wetting agent. Each part has a job. The compost and manure supply organic matter and nutrient, the gypsum works on clay structure, the bark keeps air around the roots and the wetting agent holds moisture in the soil.
It suits exotic garden plants, including roses, ornamental and deciduous trees, fruit trees, shrubs and perennials, and it earns its keep most on heavy clay sites. It is a planting mix rather than a potting mix, so its job is improving soil at planting time. Phosphorus sensitive natives are the one clear exception.
No, not for the phosphorus sensitive ones. The composted animal manure in this blend lifts phosphorus well above what Proteaceae such as Banksia, Grevillea, Hakea and Protea will tolerate, and the result can be leaf burn, dieback and plant death. Use the Native Potting Mix for those species, or plant them into unimproved local soil.
Yes. It is a certified organic product with no chemical additives, which is why the manure and compost in it are fully composted rather than raw. That makes it sound around fruit trees and vegetable beds, and it means you are adding genuine organic matter to your soil rather than a synthetic conditioner.
Work on roughly one third planting mix to two thirds of the soil you dug out of the hole. For a shrub out of a 200 millimetre pot that is only a few litres. An advanced tree going into a large hole will take considerably more. Judge the quantity by the volume of the hole rather than the size of the plant.
It is not a potting mix and should not be used on its own in a container. The blend is designed to be diluted through garden soil, and used straight in a pot it holds too much water and settles badly. For containers, reach for a premium potting mix, or the native mix if you are potting natives.
Yes. Water the plant well several hours before you plant it, then water thoroughly again once the hole is backfilled and the soil firmed down. That first deep watering settles the improved soil around the root ball and drives out air pockets. Keep the water up over the first few months while the roots establish.
Enriched Planting Mix is a certified organic blend of Pure Magic Compost, composted animal manure, gypsum, composted coarse bark and a wetting agent, bagged in 30L. It is built to be dug through existing garden soil at planting time rather than used on its own, and the gypsum is what sets it apart from a plain compost.
Gypsum helps break up heavy clay so water and roots can move through it, while the compost and manure return organic matter and nutrient to tired ground. The coarse bark holds structure and keeps air around the root zone, and the wetting agent keeps moisture in the soil longer after rain or watering.
Use it when planting trees, shrubs, roses, fruit trees and exotic garden plants, particularly into clay. Dig a hole twice the width of the pot and 7 centimetres deeper, then mix roughly one third planting mix through the excavated soil. Spread 7 centimetres of that improved soil in the base before setting the plant in.
About Enriched Planting Mix
It is a blend of Pure Magic Compost, composted animal manure, gypsum, composted coarse bark and a wetting agent. Each part has a job. The compost and manure supply organic matter and nutrient, the gypsum works on clay structure, the bark keeps air around the roots and the wetting agent holds moisture in the soil.
It suits exotic garden plants, including roses, ornamental and deciduous trees, fruit trees, shrubs and perennials, and it earns its keep most on heavy clay sites. It is a planting mix rather than a potting mix, so its job is improving soil at planting time. Phosphorus sensitive natives are the one clear exception.
No, not for the phosphorus sensitive ones. The composted animal manure in this blend lifts phosphorus well above what Proteaceae such as Banksia, Grevillea, Hakea and Protea will tolerate, and the result can be leaf burn, dieback and plant death. Use the Native Potting Mix for those species, or plant them into unimproved local soil.
Yes. It is a certified organic product with no chemical additives, which is why the manure and compost in it are fully composted rather than raw. That makes it sound around fruit trees and vegetable beds, and it means you are adding genuine organic matter to your soil rather than a synthetic conditioner.
Work on roughly one third planting mix to two thirds of the soil you dug out of the hole. For a shrub out of a 200 millimetre pot that is only a few litres. An advanced tree going into a large hole will take considerably more. Judge the quantity by the volume of the hole rather than the size of the plant.
It is not a potting mix and should not be used on its own in a container. The blend is designed to be diluted through garden soil, and used straight in a pot it holds too much water and settles badly. For containers, reach for a premium potting mix, or the native mix if you are potting natives.
Yes. Water the plant well several hours before you plant it, then water thoroughly again once the hole is backfilled and the soil firmed down. That first deep watering settles the improved soil around the root ball and drives out air pockets. Keep the water up over the first few months while the roots establish.
Pyrus calleryana 'Chanticleer' is one of the most widely planted street trees in Australia, and for good reason. The naturally narrow upright teardrop form needs almost no pruning, masses of white blossom cover the bare branches in early spring, and the glossy foliage finishes the year in vivid red, purple and orange.
Chanticleer grows to 8-11 metres tall and just 4-5 metres wide. The compact narrow footprint makes it ideal for street planting, formal avenues, driveways, and feature positions in residential gardens where a tall tree is wanted without a wide spreading canopy.
Chanticleer is highly adaptable and thrives across most Australian climates, tolerating heat, frost, drought, urban pollution, and a wide range of soils once established. It is fully deciduous, dropping its colourful autumn foliage in winter before the spring blossom display begins again.
Choosing an ornamental pear. Chanticleer is the narrowest and most uniform, ideal for tight street and avenue planting. Manchurian Pear is broader and the most cold hardy. Snow Pear offers silver foliage on a compact rounded form, and Southworth Dancer has fine birch-like foliage with a graceful look. All deliver white spring blossom and autumn colour.
About Pyrus calleryana 'Chanticleer'
Pyrus calleryana 'Chanticleer' grows to 8-11 metres tall and 4-5 metres wide with a distinctive narrow upright teardrop form.
Chanticleer is moderately fast-growing, adding 50-80cm per year once established.
Chanticleer produces masses of white blossoms in early spring, typically September across Australia, before the glossy green foliage emerges.
Chanticleer has a naturally narrow uniform shape, needs minimal pruning, tolerates urban pollution and tight spaces, and delivers reliable white spring flowers and red-purple autumn colour. This makes it one of the most widely planted street trees in Australia.
Yes. Chanticleer is fully deciduous. Glossy green summer foliage turns vivid red, purple and orange in autumn before dropping in winter.
Chanticleer is highly adaptable and thrives across most Australian climates, tolerating heat, frost, drought, and a wide range of soils once established.
Plant 3-4 metres apart for a continuous narrow avenue, or 5 metres for individual feature spacing.
Nyssa sylvatica, the Black Tupelo, is widely regarded as one of the finest autumn-colour trees in cultivation. Glossy dark green summer foliage transforms into a brilliant display of yellow, orange, crimson and scarlet, often all on the tree at once.
Black Tupelo grows to 10-15 metres tall and 6-9 metres wide, forming a neat upright rounded canopy. The fine branching, distinctive blocky bark, and small bluish-black fruit add structure and wildlife value, making it an excellent feature and shade tree for medium to large gardens, parklands, and naturalistic planting schemes.
Black Tupelo performs best in cool to temperate regions including VIC, NSW, ACT, Tasmania, and elevated parts of SA and WA, where cool autumns produce the strongest colour. It prefers moist, well-drained loam or clay, tolerates periodic wetness, and is cold hardy. It is low maintenance, needing only light pruning to shape.
About Nyssa sylvatica Black Tupelo
Nyssa sylvatica grows to 10-15 metres tall and 6-9 metres wide with an upright rounded form that broadens with age.
Black Tupelo is slow to moderate growing, adding 30-50cm per year once established.
Black Tupelo is famous for its autumn display, with glossy dark green foliage turning brilliant scarlet, red, orange and purple (April to June across southern Australia). It is regarded as one of the finest autumn-colour trees available.
Yes. Black Tupelo is fully deciduous, dropping its vivid autumn foliage in winter to reveal an attractive branching structure and distinctive blocky bark.
Yes. At 10-15 metres Black Tupelo suits medium to large gardens, parks, and naturalistic planting schemes where its strong structure and autumn colour can be appreciated.
Black Tupelo performs best in cool to temperate regions including VIC, NSW, ACT, Tasmania, and elevated parts of SA and WA, where cool autumns produce the strongest colour.
Plant 5-7 metres apart for a grove or avenue, or as individual feature trees with room for the canopy to develop.
Lagerstroemia fauriei 'Fantasy' is a fast-growing crepe myrtle admired as much for its outstanding bark as its flowers. Masses of white blooms appear from early summer to autumn, while the smooth cinnamon-brown exfoliating bark provides exceptional year-round interest.
Fantasy Crepe Myrtle is one of the taller crepe myrtles, with a strong upright branching structure. The size suits street planting, avenues, large gardens, and public spaces. Dark green foliage turns vibrant red-orange in autumn for striking seasonal contrast.
Fantasy is highly drought and heat tolerant once established, thriving in full sun across most Australian climates. It tolerates pollution and poor soils with minimal maintenance, making it a reliable, elegant choice for councils, landscapers, and gardeners seeking extended flowering and year-round structure.
Fantasy, Natchez or Acoma? All three are white-flowering crepe myrtles, which is exactly why they get confused. The real difference is scale and what you are buying the tree for.
Fantasy is the big one. It is a pure Lagerstroemia fauriei, the Japanese crepe myrtle, rather than a hybrid, and it is the tallest and fastest growing of the three. It is grown as much for its cinnamon-brown exfoliating bark as its flowers. Choose it when you want a genuine tree with a trunk worth looking at in winter, for an avenue, a streetscape or a large garden.
Natchez is the flower one. An indica and fauriei hybrid at a mid-size, it carries the largest and showiest white flower trusses of the three and has excellent cinnamon bark of its own. It is the all-round choice where the summer flowering is the point.
Acoma is the small one. Also an indica and fauriei hybrid, but dwarf at 2 to 3 metres with a low, spreading habit. It is the answer for courtyards, small gardens, tight beds and planting under powerlines, where Fantasy and Natchez would both outgrow the space.
About Lagerstroemia fauriei 'Fantasy' White Crepe Myrtle
Size and parentage. Fantasy is a pure Lagerstroemia fauriei, the Japanese crepe myrtle, while Natchez is a hybrid between L. indica and L. fauriei. Fantasy grows taller and faster and is grown as much for its cinnamon bark as its flowers. Natchez carries the larger, showier white flower trusses. Choose Fantasy for scale and trunk character, Natchez when the flowering display matters most.
Almost entirely scale. Acoma is a dwarf hybrid reaching only 2 to 3 metres with a low, spreading habit, suited to courtyards, small gardens and planting under powerlines. Fantasy is a full-sized tree several times that height. Both flower white, so if you have picked Acoma for the flower colour but need a tree rather than a shrub, Fantasy is the one to plant.
A simple rule: Fantasy for scale and bark, Natchez for the flowering display, Acoma for small spaces. All three are white-flowering, drought hardy once established and deciduous with autumn colour, so the decision comes down to the size of the space and whether you want a tree or a shrub.
'Fantasy' is fast-growing, adding 60cm to 1 metre per year in warm conditions with adequate water. It is the quickest of the white crepe myrtles to make a tree.
'Fantasy' produces masses of pure white flower panicles through summer, typically December to March across most Australian climates.
'Fantasy' is grown as much for its outstanding cinnamon-brown exfoliating bark as for its flowers. The smooth peeling bark provides exceptional year-round interest, particularly in winter once the leaves have dropped.
Yes. 'Fantasy' is fully deciduous. Green summer foliage turns orange-red in autumn before dropping in winter to reveal the striking bark.
Yes. 'Fantasy' is highly drought and heat tolerant once established and thrives in full sun across most Australian climates.
Plant 4-6 metres apart for a full canopy avenue, or 3-4 metres for a denser flowering screen.
Juniperus chinensis 'Spartan', sold as Spartan Juniper, is an evergreen conifer with a naturally columnar, upright habit. The fine scale-like foliage is a deep rich green and holds that colour through every season. It forms a dense, narrow column without training, which is what makes it such a dependable vertical element.
Grow it in full sun in free-draining soil. It suits temperate, Mediterranean, cool inland and coastal gardens, and handles light to moderate frost once established. Growth runs 30 to 50 centimetres a year, and mature plants reach 4 to 6 metres tall and 1 to 2 metres wide. Drought tolerance is good after the first two summers.
Landscapers use it as a screen along boundaries, as a formal avenue, and as a pair framing a doorway or gate. The narrow footprint means it screens a fence line without stealing garden bed depth. Planted at close spacing it makes a hedge that needs almost no clipping to stay tidy.
After a clipped shape instead? This listing is the natural columnar form, for hedging, screening, avenues and feature planting. For pre-trained standards, double balls and triple balls ready to place, see Juniperus chinensis 'Spartan' - Topiary Forms.
About Spartan Juniper
Spartan Juniper is the cultivar Juniperus chinensis 'Spartan', an evergreen conifer grown for its dense columnar shape and deep green scale-like foliage. It holds a narrow upright outline on its own, so it reads as a clean vertical without shaping. It is not an Australian native, though it has been grown here for decades in gardens and commercial landscapes.
Mature height is 4 to 6 metres with a width of 1 to 2 metres. It keeps the same narrow column at every stage, so a young plant gives a fair picture of the adult shape. In a container, or anywhere the roots are restricted, it will sit at the lower end of that range.
Expect roughly 30 to 50 centimetres of height a year in good conditions, which is moderate to fast for a conifer. Growth is quickest through spring and autumn and slows in the heat of midsummer. Regular water and a free-draining soil in the first two years make the biggest difference to the rate.
Full sun gives the best result. Six hours or more of direct light a day keeps the foliage dense right to the base and holds the colour deep green. In part shade the plant survives but opens up and thins on the shaded side, which spoils the even column that makes it useful.
Plant at 1 to 1.5 metres apart for a dense informal screen, or 80 centimetres apart for a tighter formal hedge. For a feature or specimen give it 3 to 4 metres so the form develops fully, and space avenue plantings at 3 metres for an even rhythm along a drive.
Yes. It handles light to moderate frost once established, which covers most of the cooler inland and tablelands areas where it is planted. Young plants in their first winter benefit from shelter in a hard frost pocket. Frost damage, when it happens, shows as browning on the outer foliage rather than the loss of the plant.
Water deeply once or twice a week through the first two summers, then only in extended dry spells. Feed with a slow release fertiliser in early spring. Keep mulch clear of the trunk to avoid collar rot. Light trimming in spring or autumn tidies the outline, but avoid cutting into old bare wood because junipers do not reshoot from it.
Malus floribunda produces one of the heaviest blossom displays of any small tree, with deep pink buds opening to soft white flowers that cover the entire canopy in spring. Small ornamental crabapples follow in autumn and hold on the bare branches well into winter for the birds.
The Japanese Crabapple grows to 4 to 7 metres tall and 4 to 6 metres wide at 30 to 60 centimetres per year, forming a broad rounded canopy on a clean trunk. That scale suits front gardens, street verges and courtyard planting where a full-sized shade tree would be too much.
Malus floribunda is frost hardy, surviving heavy and frequent frost without damage, and flowers most heavily where winters are genuinely cold. It grows in full sun and tolerates a wide range of soils, needing only a light winter prune to keep the canopy open.
About Malus floribunda
The Japanese Crabapple reaches 4 to 7 metres tall and 4 to 6 metres wide, forming a broad rounded canopy. It suits front gardens, verges and courtyards.
Deep pink buds open to soft white blossom through spring, covering the entire canopy. It is one of the heaviest-flowering ornamental crabapples grown.
The small crabapples are edible but very tart, and are usually left for the birds or used for jelly. They persist on the bare branches into winter.
Yes. It is fully deciduous, with foliage colouring warmly in autumn before dropping to reveal the fruit and branch structure.
Yes. It survives heavy and frequent frost without damage, and cold winters actually improve the following spring's blossom display.
Yes. Crabapples flower prolifically over a long period and are widely used as universal pollinators for domestic apple varieties planted nearby.
Plant 4 to 5 metres apart as individual feature trees so each canopy develops fully, or 4 metres apart for a blossom avenue.
Trachelospermum jasminoides 'Balls' is Star Jasmine grown and clipped into a dense evergreen sphere. The small glossy leaves sit tight on a woody framework, holding a clean rounded outline year round. White pinwheel flowers open in spring and carry a strong sweet scent right across a courtyard.
Ball specimens hold at about 1 to 1.5 metres tall and wide with light clipping. Full sun to part shade suits them, in any free draining soil. Growth is slow to moderate at 30 to 50 centimetres a year. They handle coastal exposure, light frost and dry spells once the roots are down.
Repeat them along a driveway, either side of an entry, or in pots on a terrace where a formal shape is wanted straight away. They read as structure in a planting scheme without the height of a hedge, and because the form is already trained, a new garden looks settled from the day it goes in.
About Star Jasmine Balls
They are Trachelospermum jasminoides, the common Star Jasmine, grown and clipped into a dense evergreen sphere on a woody framework. Instead of climbing, the plant is trained into a self supporting rounded shape. The foliage is small, glossy and dark green, and the plant carries scented white flowers through spring.
They hold at roughly 1 to 1.5 metres tall and 1 to 1.5 metres wide. Growth is slow to moderate at 30 to 50 centimetres a year, so a light clip once or twice a year keeps the ball tight at whatever size within that range suits the setting.
Full sun to part shade both work. Full sun gives the densest foliage and the heaviest flowering, while part shade produces slightly softer, more open growth and fewer flowers. Avoid deep shade, where the ball thins out and loses its outline. Morning sun with afternoon protection suits hot inland gardens.
Yes, and pots are one of the main uses. A container 50 to 60 centimetres wide with a quality free draining mix will hold a ball for years. Water more often than you would in the ground, especially in summer, and feed in spring and again in late summer. Refresh the mix every few years.
Yes, the foliage is held year round. The glossy dark green leaves take on a bronze tinge in cold weather and green up again in spring, but the plant never goes bare. That is what makes it useful as permanent structure in a scheme, particularly in winter once perennials have died back.
Flowering runs through spring, roughly September to November, and often carries into early summer in warmer districts. The white pinwheel flowers are small but produced in quantity, and the scent is strong on still evenings. Flowering is heaviest on plants in full sun that were not clipped hard just before bud set.
Clip lightly with hedging shears once after flowering and again in late summer if needed, taking only the new growth to keep the outline crisp. Water deeply in dry weather, mulch the base, and feed in early spring. The sap is milky and can irritate skin, so wear gloves when trimming.
Westringia fruticosa, Coastal Rosemary, is an Australian native evergreen shrub from the headlands and dunes of the east coast. It builds a dense rounded bush of fine grey green leaves held in whorls, with small white to pale lilac flowers. Despite the common name it is not the culinary herb.
Mature plants sit at 1.5 to 2 metres tall and 1.5 to 2 metres wide, growing 30 to 60 centimetres a year, and they clip smaller without complaint. Full sun to part shade and sharp drainage are the requirements. Salt wind, sandy soil, drought and light to moderate frost are all handled.
It is a standard on coastal projects, road verges, council garden beds and exposed banks that need erosion cover. Plant 1 to 1.5 metres apart for an informal screen, or 80 centimetres for a clipped hedge. A single plant fills a 40 to 50 centimetre pot on a courtyard or balcony.
About Coastal Rosemary
Westringia fruticosa is an Australian native evergreen shrub from the headlands and dunes of the east coast. It forms a dense rounded bush of fine grey green leaves held in whorls, with small white to pale lilac flowers. Despite the common name it is not culinary rosemary and is not used in cooking.
Mature plants reach 1.5 to 2 metres tall and 1.5 to 2 metres wide. It clips readily to smaller dimensions and is often maintained at around a metre as a hedge or a low mound. Growth is moderate, roughly 30 to 60 centimetres a year, so it holds a trimmed shape well.
It is one of the best shrubs available for exposed coastal work. It grows naturally on sea cliffs and copes with salt laden wind, sand and reflected heat. It is used constantly on beachfront reserves, dune stabilisation projects and seaside gardens where little else holds a tidy shape.
The main flush is spring and summer, roughly September through February, with scattered flowering at other times of the year in mild districts. The flowers are small, white to pale lilac and sit among the foliage rather than above it. Clipped hedges flower less than plants left to grow informally.
Space plants 80 centimetres apart for a tight formal hedge, or 1 to 1.5 metres apart for a dense informal screen. On banks and batters used for erosion cover, 1 metre in a staggered grid gives full ground coverage within about two growing seasons.
Yes. A pot 40 to 50 centimetres wide suits a single plant for a courtyard, entry or balcony. Use a free draining mix, because the roots will not tolerate sitting wet. Container plants need watering more often than those in the ground, plus a light trim to hold their shape.
Trim lightly two or three times a year, taking the soft new growth and avoiding cuts into bare old wood, which reshoots poorly. Water through the first summer, then only in extended dry spells. On most soils it needs no feeding at all, and it resents heavy watering and poor drainage.
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Fraxinus pennsylvanica 'Cimmaron' is a selected form of Green Ash: deciduous, with a symmetrical, broadly upright crown built on a straight central leader. The glossy dark green pinnate leaves turn orange to brick red in autumn, deeper than the plain yellow of most green ash, and hold on the tree later into winter than most other ash. Small purple flowers open on bare stems in spring.
It grows in full sun to partial shade and tolerates a wide range of soils, including compacted ground and sites that stay wet for short periods. Frost is not a problem, and established trees handle moderate drought and urban pollution. Growth is moderate to fast at 40 to 60 centimetres a year, with the crown forming evenly.
Mature dimensions of 12 to 15 metres tall by 8 to 12 metres wide suit parks, wide street reserves, car park islands and large gardens. The even crown is why councils specify it, since a row matches up rather than growing into a mismatched line. For public space it is a low input tree that delivers real shade.
Also sold as: Cimmaron Ash, Cimmaron® Ash, Fraxinus pennsylvanica 'Cimmzam', and occasionally spelled Cimarron. 'Cimmzam' is the registered cultivar name and Cimmaron is the trade name, so the two refer to the same tree.
Which ash should you plant? Cimmaron is the one for a matched avenue or street row, because the symmetrical crown means a planted line grows up even. Claret Ash 'Raywoodii' is the choice when you want the deepest purple-burgundy autumn display. Golden Ash gives yellow autumn colour and bright yellow winter stems. 'Urbanite' is the other green ash selection, broader and more pyramidal than Cimmaron.
About Cimmaron Ash
Cimmaron Ash is a named cultivar of Fraxinus pennsylvanica, the North American Green Ash, chosen for its uniform symmetrical shape and its autumn colour. Where the ordinary species turns yellow, this selection colours orange to brick red. It is a deciduous shade tree used mainly in streets, car parks and public open space.
Yes. 'Cimmzam' is the registered cultivar name and Cimmaron is the trade name it is sold under, so Fraxinus pennsylvanica 'Cimmzam' and Cimmaron Ash are the same plant. You will also see it written Cimarron with a single m, which is a common misspelling rather than a different tree.
Autumn colour and crown shape. Cimmaron colours orange to brick red and holds a notably even, symmetrical crown, which is why it is specified for matched avenues and street rows. Claret Ash gives the deepest purple-burgundy autumn display and a broader crown. Golden Ash turns clear yellow and carries bright yellow stems through winter. All three are deciduous shade trees of a similar scale.
It reaches 12 to 15 metres tall with a canopy 8 to 12 metres wide at maturity. That takes several decades in most Australian conditions. It is a genuine shade tree, so it needs open ground and clear airspace, not a courtyard or a narrow verge under powerlines. Site it with the mature width in mind from the start.
Growth is moderate to fast, around 40 to 60 centimetres a year while the tree is establishing its framework, then slower as it matures. Regular deep watering and a good mulch ring through the first three summers make the biggest difference. On compacted or unimproved ground expect the lower end of that range until the roots spread.
An established tree handles moderate drought and the dry, reflected heat of paved surrounds, which is why it is a common street tree selection. It is not a dry country species though, and prolonged drought without any supplementary water shows up as early leaf drop. Young trees need consistent watering for the first two to three summers.
It is one of the standard choices for these situations. The symmetrical form means a planted row grows up matched, the trunk lifts to give vehicle and pedestrian clearance, and the tree tolerates compacted soil, pollution and reflected heat. Give each tree adequate soil volume and keep it well clear of underground services and building footings.
Colour comes on through April and May in most districts, later in warm coastal areas. The glossy green foliage moves through orange to a deep brick red and holds for a few weeks before dropping, staying on the tree later into winter than most other ash. Cool nights and a bright, dry autumn produce the strongest colour, while a mild humid autumn gives a shorter, softer display.
Water deeply through the first three summers, mulch widely and keep turf and weeds off the root zone while the tree establishes. Prune in late winter when the branch structure is exposed, removing crossing limbs and lifting the lower branches gradually to the clearance you want. Mature trees need little beyond deadwood removal and clearing the autumn leaf fall.
