Laurus nobilis Bay Leaf Balls – Bay Laurel

Trachelospermum jasminoides is an evergreen twining climber from east Asia, and despite the common name it is not a true jasmine. It builds a woody framework of stems carrying glossy dark green leaves, and produces scented white flowers shaped like five pointed stars. It is grown as a climber, a groundcover or a clipped cover.

Growth is moderate at about 30 to 50 centimetres a year once established. The first year is slow while the roots develop, and the pace picks up noticeably in the second and third seasons. Regular water and a spring feed speed things along, and plants tied in early cover a fence faster than those left to find their own way.

It grows in full sun through to part shade. Full sun produces the tightest growth and by far the most flowers, while shaded plants stay leafier with sparse flowering. In hot inland gardens some afternoon shade prevents leaf scorch. Against a west facing wall, make sure the roots stay mulched and watered.

Yes, established plants handle light to moderate frost without damage, though the leaves often take on a bronze or purple tone through winter and green up again in spring. Young plants in their first winter are more vulnerable and benefit from a sheltered position or a temporary cover in cold inland districts.

Yes. Left without support it spreads sideways into a dense mat roughly 30 to 45 centimetres deep, which is a common way to cover batters, median strips and the ground under established trees. Space plants about 1 metre apart for cover within two seasons, and trim the runners back off paths.

It handles coastal conditions well, including salt laden wind and sandy soil, provided it is not in the front line of direct salt spray. Improve sandy ground with compost before planting and mulch to hold moisture. It is used widely on coastal fences and retaining walls along the eastern and southern seaboard.

Water through the first two summers, after which it asks for very little. Prune after flowering, cutting back long runners and thinning the framework if it has built up thick and woody. It takes a hard cut back and reshoots. Feed in early spring. Wear gloves when pruning, as the milky sap can irritate skin.