Evergreen · Full Sun
Mature size: 15m–30m high × 6m–13.7m wide
Most loved for its graceful pyramidal form with softly drooping branches and fine blue-green evergreen needles, giving it a majestic appearance in landscapes.
Approximate only. Minimum height important? Confirm with us.
Height guide & disclaimer
Height guide disclaimer: Height ranges are approximate only. As living products, plant heights naturally vary between individual plants, batches, and seasons. No guarantee is given that supplied plants will fall within the stated range. If minimum heights are required, you must confirm current batch heights with Evergreen Trees Direct prior to purchase. Variation in height is normal and is not grounds for return, refund, replacement, or compensation.
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| Pot / bag size | Width | Depth |
|---|---|---|
| 30cm Pot | 33cm | 30cm |
| 40cm/45L Pot | 44cm | 41.5cm |
| 50cm Pot / 70L Pot | 55cm | 41.8cm |
| 100L Bag | 50.6cm | 52.8cm |
| 150L Bag | 66cm | 55cm |
| 200L Bag | 71.5cm | 60.5cm |
| 300L Bag | 88cm | 63.8cm |
| 400L Bag | 99cm | 66cm |
| 500L Bag | 122cm | 66cm |
| 750L Bag | 134cm | 69cm |
| 1000L Bag | 146.3cm | 71.5cm |
| 2000L Bag | 176cm | 82.5cm |
General planting reference from our existing size guide. Actual containers can vary by supplier and batch; confirm exact dimensions if required.
We supply advanced trees to landscapers, developers, architects, and councils Australia-wide. Trade clients receive fast quotes, expert advice, and access to premium stock with reliable freight.
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Cedrus deodara holds a broad pyramidal frame with gracefully drooping branch tips and a nodding leader, softening what would otherwise be a rigid conifer silhouette. Fine blue-green needles catch light across the whole canopy, and the Himalayan Cedar lives for centuries.
Cedrus deodara grows to 15 to 30 metres tall and 6 to 14 metres wide at 60 to 90 centimetres per year, which is fast for a conifer of this stature. It needs genuine space and is best suited to parkland, large rural properties, avenues and civic landscapes rather than suburban gardens.
This is a frost hardy tree that survives heavy and frequent frost without damage, and it also handles drought and heat once established. It grows in full sun and requires free-draining soil, performing poorly where drainage is impeded.
About Cedrus deodara
The Himalayan Cedar reaches 15 to 30 metres tall and 6 to 14 metres wide. It is a very large tree requiring parkland or acreage scale rather than a suburban block.
It grows at 60 to 90 centimetres per year, which is fast for a conifer of this eventual size, and develops its graceful drooping form from a young age.
Deodara has distinctly drooping branch tips and a nodding leader, giving it a softer, more graceful silhouette than the stiffer Atlas or Lebanon cedars.
Yes. It survives heavy and frequent frost without damage and also tolerates heat and drought once established, making it adaptable across most of southern Australia.
Free-draining soil is essential. Cedrus deodara performs poorly in heavy waterlogged ground and will decline where drainage is impeded, regardless of other conditions.
It is very long-lived, with mature specimens routinely exceeding a century and older trees documented well beyond that. It is a genuine legacy planting.
Plant 10 to 12 metres apart for an avenue, and keep trees at least 15 metres from buildings and services given the eventual canopy spread.
| Mature height | 15m to 30m (approx.) |
|---|---|
| Mature width | 6m to 13.7m |
| Position | Full Sun |
| Growth per year | 60cm to 90cm per year (approx.) |
| Frost | Frost Hardy |
| Foliage | Evergreen (foliage year round) |
| Form | Pendulous · Symmetrical |
| Uses | Feature Tree · Avenue Planting · Shade Tree · Council or Civic Landscapes |
Evergreen (foliage year round)
Cedrus deodara is expected to grow 60cm to 90cm per year (approx.).
Cedrus deodara works in an:
Cedrus deodara is an Evergreen (foliage year round) Tree
Mature Height: 15m to 30m (approx.)
Mature Width: 6m to 13.7m
Cedrus deodara is expected to grow 60cm to 90cm per year (approx.).
Cedrus deodara is expected to grow 60cm to 90cm per year (approx.).
They are considered to have a:
Is Cedrus deodara frost tolerant?
Cedrus deodara is Frost Hardy – Survives heavy and frequent frost without damage.
Cedrus deodara produces small upright male cones and tiny female cones in autumn, which gradually develop into larger, woody seed cones over time. While subtle, these seasonal structures sit among the soft blue-green needles and mark its natural reproductive cycle.
Does Cedrus deodara flower?
Flowering Period:
Flower Type:
Flower Colour:
Not Applicable
No
Cedrus deodara is Native to The western Himalayas, including Afghanistan, Pakistan, northern India, and Nepal, where it grows naturally on mountain slopes.
Its dense evergreen canopy provides year-round shelter and nesting habitat for small birds, while the cones support insects and cone-feeding wildlife. The layered branching also creates cool, protected micro-habitats that enhance overall garden biodiversity.
Cedrus deodara will thrive best in:
Cedrus deodara performs best in well-drained sandy or loam soils and tolerates slightly acidic to slightly alkaline conditions. It may struggle in heavy clay or poorly drained areas unless improved with organic matter and coarse material to enhance aeration and structure. Keep soil evenly moist during establishment, then transition to deep, occasional watering as the tree matures and develops its hallmark high drought resilience.
Is Cedrus deodara Drought tolerant?
As a young tree it requires regular watering, but once established Cedrus deodara develops excellent drought tolerance. It thrives in hot, dry and exposed environments and maintains its graceful, drooping form with minimal supplementary watering.
Approx. 1.1m – 1.3m
Approx. 0.8m – 1.4m
Approx. 1.2m – 1.8m
Enquire for current heights
Approx. 2.1m – 2.6m
Approx. 3.4m – 4.2m
Heights are approximate and vary between individual trees.
We take pride in supplying A+ grade advanced trees. When stock at our farm is not yet ready, we work with our trusted trade suppliers to source the best available trees for your garden.
Enriched Planting Mix is a certified organic blend of Pure Magic Compost, composted animal manure, gypsum, composted coarse bark and a wetting agent, bagged in 30L. It is built to be dug through existing garden soil at planting time rather than used on its own, and the gypsum is what sets it apart from a plain compost.
Gypsum helps break up heavy clay so water and roots can move through it, while the compost and manure return organic matter and nutrient to tired ground. The coarse bark holds structure and keeps air around the root zone, and the wetting agent keeps moisture in the soil longer after rain or watering.
Use it when planting trees, shrubs, roses, fruit trees and exotic garden plants, particularly into clay. Dig a hole twice the width of the pot and 7 centimetres deeper, then mix roughly one third planting mix through the excavated soil. Spread 7 centimetres of that improved soil in the base before setting the plant in.
About Enriched Planting Mix
It is a blend of Pure Magic Compost, composted animal manure, gypsum, composted coarse bark and a wetting agent. Each part has a job. The compost and manure supply organic matter and nutrient, the gypsum works on clay structure, the bark keeps air around the roots and the wetting agent holds moisture in the soil.
It suits exotic garden plants, including roses, ornamental and deciduous trees, fruit trees, shrubs and perennials, and it earns its keep most on heavy clay sites. It is a planting mix rather than a potting mix, so its job is improving soil at planting time. Phosphorus sensitive natives are the one clear exception.
No, not for the phosphorus sensitive ones. The composted animal manure in this blend lifts phosphorus well above what Proteaceae such as Banksia, Grevillea, Hakea and Protea will tolerate, and the result can be leaf burn, dieback and plant death. Use the Native Potting Mix for those species, or plant them into unimproved local soil.
Yes. It is a certified organic product with no chemical additives, which is why the manure and compost in it are fully composted rather than raw. That makes it sound around fruit trees and vegetable beds, and it means you are adding genuine organic matter to your soil rather than a synthetic conditioner.
Work on roughly one third planting mix to two thirds of the soil you dug out of the hole. For a shrub out of a 200 millimetre pot that is only a few litres. An advanced tree going into a large hole will take considerably more. Judge the quantity by the volume of the hole rather than the size of the plant.
It is not a potting mix and should not be used on its own in a container. The blend is designed to be diluted through garden soil, and used straight in a pot it holds too much water and settles badly. For containers, reach for a premium potting mix, or the native mix if you are potting natives.
Yes. Water the plant well several hours before you plant it, then water thoroughly again once the hole is backfilled and the soil firmed down. That first deep watering settles the improved soil around the root ball and drives out air pockets. Keep the water up over the first few months while the roots establish.
Enriched Planting Mix is a certified organic blend of Pure Magic Compost, composted animal manure, gypsum, composted coarse bark and a wetting agent, bagged in 30L. It is built to be dug through existing garden soil at planting time rather than used on its own, and the gypsum is what sets it apart from a plain compost.
Gypsum helps break up heavy clay so water and roots can move through it, while the compost and manure return organic matter and nutrient to tired ground. The coarse bark holds structure and keeps air around the root zone, and the wetting agent keeps moisture in the soil longer after rain or watering.
Use it when planting trees, shrubs, roses, fruit trees and exotic garden plants, particularly into clay. Dig a hole twice the width of the pot and 7 centimetres deeper, then mix roughly one third planting mix through the excavated soil. Spread 7 centimetres of that improved soil in the base before setting the plant in.
About Enriched Planting Mix
It is a blend of Pure Magic Compost, composted animal manure, gypsum, composted coarse bark and a wetting agent. Each part has a job. The compost and manure supply organic matter and nutrient, the gypsum works on clay structure, the bark keeps air around the roots and the wetting agent holds moisture in the soil.
It suits exotic garden plants, including roses, ornamental and deciduous trees, fruit trees, shrubs and perennials, and it earns its keep most on heavy clay sites. It is a planting mix rather than a potting mix, so its job is improving soil at planting time. Phosphorus sensitive natives are the one clear exception.
No, not for the phosphorus sensitive ones. The composted animal manure in this blend lifts phosphorus well above what Proteaceae such as Banksia, Grevillea, Hakea and Protea will tolerate, and the result can be leaf burn, dieback and plant death. Use the Native Potting Mix for those species, or plant them into unimproved local soil.
Yes. It is a certified organic product with no chemical additives, which is why the manure and compost in it are fully composted rather than raw. That makes it sound around fruit trees and vegetable beds, and it means you are adding genuine organic matter to your soil rather than a synthetic conditioner.
Work on roughly one third planting mix to two thirds of the soil you dug out of the hole. For a shrub out of a 200 millimetre pot that is only a few litres. An advanced tree going into a large hole will take considerably more. Judge the quantity by the volume of the hole rather than the size of the plant.
It is not a potting mix and should not be used on its own in a container. The blend is designed to be diluted through garden soil, and used straight in a pot it holds too much water and settles badly. For containers, reach for a premium potting mix, or the native mix if you are potting natives.
Yes. Water the plant well several hours before you plant it, then water thoroughly again once the hole is backfilled and the soil firmed down. That first deep watering settles the improved soil around the root ball and drives out air pockets. Keep the water up over the first few months while the roots establish.
Pittosporum tenuifolium 'Silver Sheen' carries small shimmering silver-green leaves on near-black stems, giving a light airy screen that moves in the wind rather than reading as a solid green wall. It is one of the most widely specified screening plants in Australian landscape design for exactly that reason.
'Silver Sheen' grows to 4 to 6 metres tall but only 1.5 to 2 metres wide at 30 to 60 centimetres per year, which makes it a genuine solution for narrow beds along fence lines and between buildings where height is needed but width is not available. Small cream flowers appear in spring and are lightly fragrant.
'Silver Sheen' grows in full sun to part shade and tolerates light to moderate frost once established, performing from subtropical Queensland through Sydney, Melbourne, Gippsland and Adelaide. It clips well, holds density under regular trimming, and is equally effective as a formal hedge or a loose screen.
About Pittosporum tenuifolium 'Silver Sheen'
'Silver Sheen' grows to 4 to 6 metres tall and only 1.5 to 2 metres wide, which makes it one of the best options for narrow screening where a tall hedge is needed in a shallow bed.
It grows at 30 to 60 centimetres per year once established, reaching a usable screening height within three to four years with regular water and feeding.
It naturally holds to 1.5 to 2 metres wide and can be trimmed to under a metre with regular clipping, which is why it is so often used in tight side-boundary positions.
Plant 1 to 1.5 metres apart for a dense informal screen, or 80 centimetres apart for a tighter formal hedge. Closer spacing fills in faster but needs more trimming.
'Silver Sheen' handles light to moderate frost once established. Young plants benefit from protection through their first winter in colder inland districts.
Yes. It performs in full sun through to part shade. In shadier positions growth is slightly more open, which suits a softer informal screen.
It performs from subtropical Queensland through Northern NSW, Sydney, the South Coast and tablelands, Melbourne and surrounds, the Western District, Gippsland and Adelaide.
Correa alba, the White Correa, is a compact evergreen Australian native grown for soft felted grey-green leaves and small white star flowers. The flowers come through autumn and winter, when little else is out.
It forms a dense rounded shrub 1 to 2 metres tall and wide. That habit suits low informal hedges, borders, mass planting and underplanting beneath taller trees, and it takes clipping well enough to hold a formal shape.
It is one of the most salt tolerant shrubs in the trade, growing wild on exposed headlands and dunes from New South Wales through Victoria, Tasmania and South Australia. Salt wind, sand and poor soil are its normal conditions. Add drought and light frost tolerance and it is the obvious choice for a beachfront garden where Buxus and Lilly Pilly burn.
We carry it in two forms. The natural form is supplied unshaped, for hedging, borders and mass planting. The Ball Form is the same plant clipped into a formal sphere over several seasons and arrives finished. Salt tolerant formal topiary is rare, so a native ball does what Buxus cannot in a coastal garden, and two light clips a year hold the shape.
About Correa alba White Correa
1 to 2 metres tall and wide as a natural rounded shrub, putting on 30 to 60 centimetres a year. A clipped ball stays at whatever size you trim it to, usually held between 50 and 80 centimetres across.
Same plant, different training. The natural form is supplied unshaped, for a hedge, border, mass planting or an informal rounded shrub. The Ball Form is grown on and clipped over several seasons into a formal sphere, and arrives finished rather than as something you shape yourself.
Salt and drought. Buxus wants moisture and shelter and burns in exposed coastal positions. Correa alba comes off the headlands and handles salt wind, sand and dry spells. The foliage is grey-green rather than dark glossy green, and it flowers, which Buxus does not usefully.
Small white star flowers appear from autumn through winter into spring, heaviest over the cooler months. That timing feeds honeyeaters and native bees when little else is in bloom. On clipped balls, trim after the main flush so you do not remove the display.
It is among the most salt tolerant native shrubs available and grows naturally on exposed cliffs and dunes. Sandy free draining soil and salt spray are its normal conditions. Drainage matters far more to it than soil richness.
60 to 80 centimetres apart for a low informal hedge, or 1 metre apart for mass planting where each plant keeps its own rounded shape. Balls repeated down a path sit well at 1 to 1.5 metres apart.
Yes, and the Ball Form in a container suits an entrance, courtyard or balcony. Use a pot at least 40 centimetres across with a free draining mix, and never let it stand in a saucer of water.
Water through the first two summers, then only in prolonged dry spells. Feed once in spring with a low phosphorus native fertiliser, as correas belong to the citrus family and resent high phosphorus blends. Trim lightly after flowering for a natural shrub, or twice a year taking only soft new growth to hold a ball.
Acacia baileyana 'Purpurea' flushes striking purple new foliage over fine silver-grey mature growth, then covers itself in masses of golden ball flowers through late winter and early spring. The purple and gold combination is unmatched among Australian natives.
'Purpurea' grows to 4 to 6 metres tall and 3 to 5 metres wide at 1 to 2 metres per year, which makes it one of the fastest ways to establish a feature tree or soften a boundary. The weeping fine-textured canopy works as a specimen, a driveway border or an informal screen.
This Australian native grows in full sun and tolerates light to moderate frost once established, along with drought and poor soils. Like most fast wattles it is relatively short-lived at 15 to 20 years, so it is best used where quick impact matters more than longevity.
About Acacia baileyana 'Purpurea'
'Purpurea' grows to 4 to 6 metres tall and 3 to 5 metres wide, forming a spreading weeping canopy. It is a small to medium feature tree suited to most suburban gardens.
New growth emerges deep purple before hardening to fine silver-grey. Flushes occur through the growing season, so the purple and silver contrast is present for much of the year.
Masses of golden-yellow ball flowers appear through late winter and early spring, contrasting strongly with the purple new foliage.
Very fast, at 1 to 2 metres per year. It will deliver a usable feature tree or screen within two to three years of planting.
Like most fast-growing wattles it is relatively short-lived, typically 15 to 20 years. Plan for replacement, or use it as a quick screen while slower long-term trees establish.
It handles light to moderate frost once established. Protect young plants through their first winter in colder inland districts.
Plant 2 to 3 metres apart for an informal screen, or 3 to 4 metres apart as individual feature trees so the weeping canopy can develop fully.
Leptospermum obovatum 'Starry Night', commonly known as the Starry Night Tea Tree, is a compact evergreen Australian native shrub valued for its distinctive deep burgundy-purple foliage and masses of small white star-shaped flowers through spring. The fine dark foliage holds its colour year-round and provides outstanding contrast against the bright white spring flowering, making it one of the most striking small Australian native shrubs available.
It performs reliably in full sun with well-drained soil and adapts to a wide range of Australian climates from subtropical Queensland through to cooler temperate regions. Mature plants reach approximately 1.5 to 2.5 metres tall and 1 to 2 metres wide, forming a dense compact shrub that responds well to light pruning. Once established it is highly drought tolerant, frost hardy and copes with coastal exposure, making it an exceptionally low-maintenance native feature.
As a striking dark-foliage Australian native for modern, native, coastal, wildlife and low-maintenance gardens, in informal hedges, feature plantings, mixed shrub borders and as a colour contrast against green or silver foliage, Leptospermum 'Starry Night' brings year-round burgundy foliage, brilliant white spring flowering, native bird and pollinator attraction and reliable hardiness in a compact, design-friendly form.
About Leptospermum 'Starry Night' Tea Tree
Mature plants reach approximately 1.5 to 2.5 metres tall and 1 to 2 metres wide, forming a dense compact rounded shrub. Growth is moderate to fast at 30 to 50 cm per year in suitable conditions, and the plant can be pruned to maintain a smaller size or shaped into an informal hedge at 1 to 1.5 metres.
'Starry Night' produces masses of small white star-shaped flowers from late spring through early summer, typically October to December. The flowers are intensely produced across the whole plant and create a brilliant contrast against the burgundy foliage. Flowering attracts bees, hoverflies and other native pollinators.
'Starry Night' performs reliably across most Australian climates from subtropical Queensland through to cooler temperate Victoria and Tasmania. It grows particularly well in Sydney, Melbourne, Adelaide, the NSW tablelands and coastal positions, and prefers full sun with well-drained sandy or loam soil. It tolerates a wide range of soils provided drainage is adequate.
Yes. Once established, 'Starry Night' is highly drought tolerant and copes with extended dry periods on minimal supplementary watering. It is also frost hardy and handles heavy and frequent frost without damage, making it suitable for inland tablelands as well as coastal positions. The dark foliage colour actually deepens in cooler weather.
Yes. 'Starry Night' responds well to pruning and is widely used as an informal hedge or screen at 1 to 1.5 metres spacing. Trim lightly after flowering to maintain density and shape. For a more compact formal look, prune two to three times through the warmer months. Avoid heavy pruning into old wood as Leptospermums generally do not regenerate well from bare stems.
Yes. The masses of small white flowers are nectar-rich and attract bees, hoverflies, butterflies and a wide range of native pollinating insects through spring and early summer. The dense evergreen canopy also provides shelter and foraging habitat for small native birds, making 'Starry Night' a valuable addition to wildlife-friendly gardens.
Water deeply through the first growing season, then reduce watering and supplement only during extended dry periods. Apply a slow-release native fertiliser low in phosphorus in early spring. Light tip pruning after flowering maintains a dense compact shape and encourages dense branching. Avoid heavy pruning into old wood, as Leptospermums generally do not respond well to it.
Buxus microphylla var. japonica, sold as Japanese Box, is a dense evergreen shrub clipped here into clean topiary balls. The small, rounded, mid green leaves sit tightly along short stems, so the surface holds a crisp edge after cutting. Growth is naturally compact, which is what allows the ball shape to hold between trims.
It grows in full sun to part shade and accepts most soils that drain, from sandy loam through to improved clay. Cool temperate, temperate and subtropical districts all suit it, and established plants handle light to moderate frost. Growth runs about 15 to 25 centimetres a year, slow enough that the shape stays where you put it.
Balls are used to edge beds and paths, mark an entry, sit either side of a doorway, or repeat down a courtyard to give a planting rhythm. They also underplant feature trees neatly. Because the form arrives already grown, a bed reads finished from the day it goes in rather than years later.
About Japanese Box Topiary Balls
It is Buxus microphylla var. japonica grown on and clipped into a sphere. The plant does the same job as any box shrub, evergreen, small leaved and tolerant of cutting, but it arrives already shaped. Ball diameters run from around 30 centimetres up to large advanced specimens, and the shape is then held with two trims a year.
The ball is held at whatever diameter it is clipped to, commonly 30 to 70 centimetres, with larger specimens available in bigger containers. In the ground, overall height sits close to the ball diameter. Left entirely unclipped the species would slowly reach roughly 1.5 to 2 metres tall and wide over many years.
About 15 to 25 centimetres a year, which is slow to moderate. That pace is an advantage in topiary because the outline drifts gradually rather than running away between cuts. Two trims a year, one in early spring and one in late summer, are usually enough to keep the surface tight and the profile even.
Full sun to part shade both work. Full sun gives the densest, tightest surface, which matters when the appeal of the plant is a clean clipped edge. In hot inland gardens some afternoon shade prevents leaf scorch and bronzing. Deep shade thins the growth out and the ball loses its crisp outline.
Yes. Established plants handle light to moderate frost without damage, which covers most temperate and cool temperate gardens including Canberra, Melbourne and the southern tablelands. Newly planted stock is more exposed, so water it well going into winter and mulch the root zone. Any frost burnt tips can simply be trimmed off in spring.
Yes, they are one of the better plants for a container. A pot 40 to 50 centimetres wide suits a single ball for a courtyard, entry or balcony. Use a quality potting mix, water once the top few centimetres dry out, and feed in spring and again in summer. Repot or refresh the mix every few years.
Trim twice a year with sharp shears, cutting lightly and often rather than hard. Feed in early spring with a slow release fertiliser and keep water up through summer. Mulch to about 50 millimetres, keeping it clear of the stem. Watch for box psyllid on soft new growth and treat early if the tips start to cup.
Buxus sempervirens English Box Topiary Balls are pre-clipped formal evergreen specimens, available in three mature sizes and ready to place. The tight, fine, dark green foliage holds a precise rounded form year-round and gives the classic formal topiary look that no other Buxus replicates. As one of our most consistently strong-selling products, our English Box topiary balls are well-shaped, well-rooted, and arrive in proportion to the pot size.
English Box performs best in cool to temperate climates and is slow growing at around 15 to 25 cm per year in good conditions, which is exactly why it holds sharp formal shapes so well. It thrives in full sun to part shade with well-drained, slightly acidic to neutral loamy soil, and is frost hardy, drought tolerant once established, and excellent in containers. Two light clips per year, in spring and again in late summer, keep the ball form crisp.
Use them flanking entrances, lining formal pathways, anchoring symmetrical garden beds, defining parterre and knot gardens, and in pairs in classic urns and decorative pots at front doors. Buxus sempervirens is the original topiary plant and remains the benchmark for traditional and contemporary formal design, with a level of finesse and density that fast-growing alternatives cannot replicate.
About Buxus sempervirens English Box Topiary Balls
Our English Box topiary balls arrive pre-clipped and ready to place at the size you order. The 30cm/33cm pots have ball diameters of approximately 30 to 45 cm, the 40cm/45L pots have ball diameters of 40 to 55 cm, and the 50cm/75L pots have ball diameters of 50 to 70 cm. They are well-rooted and in proportion to the pot.
English Box is slow-growing, adding approximately 15 to 25 cm per year once established in good conditions. This slow growth rate is one of the reasons it holds sharp formal shapes so well, and why mature pre-clipped specimens command a premium over seedling-grown stock.
English Box (Buxus sempervirens) has the smallest, finest leaves and the tightest formal texture, ideal for traditional parterres and clipped balls. Japanese Box (Buxus microphylla japonica) has slightly larger leaves, grows faster, and handles heat better. Shaggy Box (Buxus bodinieri) has soft, rounded leaves, much better blight resistance, and is the best choice for humid subtropical climates where English Box can struggle.
English Box performs best in cool to temperate regions including Victoria, the ACT, the NSW Southern Highlands and Central Tablelands, Tasmania, and the elevated parts of South Australia and Western Australia. In humid coastal or hot subtropical regions, consider Buxus bodinieri Shaggy Box or Japanese Box instead for better long-term performance.
Lightly clip in spring and again in late summer or early autumn to maintain the ball shape. Avoid pruning in the heat of summer or during frost periods. Use sharp shears for the cleanest formal finish, and step back regularly to check the symmetry of the form.
Yes. English Box is the classic potted topiary plant and pre-clipped balls look particularly striking in pairs at entrances and on terraces. Use a minimum 30L pot for the 30cm/33cm size and scale up from there, with a quality potting mix and a slow-release fertiliser applied twice yearly.
English Box can be affected by box blight, particularly in humid conditions where foliage stays wet. To reduce risk, ensure good air circulation around each plant, avoid overhead watering, and prune to maintain airflow through the canopy. In high-humidity regions, Buxus bodinieri Shaggy Box is a more disease-resistant alternative.
Trachelospermum jasminoides 'Balls' is Star Jasmine grown and clipped into a dense evergreen sphere. The small glossy leaves sit tight on a woody framework, holding a clean rounded outline year round. White pinwheel flowers open in spring and carry a strong sweet scent right across a courtyard.
Ball specimens hold at about 1 to 1.5 metres tall and wide with light clipping. Full sun to part shade suits them, in any free draining soil. Growth is slow to moderate at 30 to 50 centimetres a year. They handle coastal exposure, light frost and dry spells once the roots are down.
Repeat them along a driveway, either side of an entry, or in pots on a terrace where a formal shape is wanted straight away. They read as structure in a planting scheme without the height of a hedge, and because the form is already trained, a new garden looks settled from the day it goes in.
About Star Jasmine Balls
They are Trachelospermum jasminoides, the common Star Jasmine, grown and clipped into a dense evergreen sphere on a woody framework. Instead of climbing, the plant is trained into a self supporting rounded shape. The foliage is small, glossy and dark green, and the plant carries scented white flowers through spring.
They hold at roughly 1 to 1.5 metres tall and 1 to 1.5 metres wide. Growth is slow to moderate at 30 to 50 centimetres a year, so a light clip once or twice a year keeps the ball tight at whatever size within that range suits the setting.
Full sun to part shade both work. Full sun gives the densest foliage and the heaviest flowering, while part shade produces slightly softer, more open growth and fewer flowers. Avoid deep shade, where the ball thins out and loses its outline. Morning sun with afternoon protection suits hot inland gardens.
Yes, and pots are one of the main uses. A container 50 to 60 centimetres wide with a quality free draining mix will hold a ball for years. Water more often than you would in the ground, especially in summer, and feed in spring and again in late summer. Refresh the mix every few years.
Yes, the foliage is held year round. The glossy dark green leaves take on a bronze tinge in cold weather and green up again in spring, but the plant never goes bare. That is what makes it useful as permanent structure in a scheme, particularly in winter once perennials have died back.
Flowering runs through spring, roughly September to November, and often carries into early summer in warmer districts. The white pinwheel flowers are small but produced in quantity, and the scent is strong on still evenings. Flowering is heaviest on plants in full sun that were not clipped hard just before bud set.
Clip lightly with hedging shears once after flowering and again in late summer if needed, taking only the new growth to keep the outline crisp. Water deeply in dry weather, mulch the base, and feed in early spring. The sap is milky and can irritate skin, so wear gloves when trimming.
Cedrus atlantica, the Atlas Cedar, is a large evergreen conifer from the mountains of Morocco and Algeria. Young trees are stiffly pyramidal with ascending branches, and with age the crown broadens and flattens into the tiered silhouette the species is known for. Needles are short, held in tight clusters, and range from grey green to blue green.
Full sun and deep, free-draining soil give the best result. It is drought tolerant once established, dislikes waterlogging, and survives heavy and frequent frost without damage. Growth is about 30 to 60 centimetres a year. Cool temperate, warm temperate and Mediterranean districts suit it, including dry inland gardens with genuinely cold winters.
This is a specimen tree for large gardens, parks, rural entrances, golf courses and civic landscapes where there is room to see it from a distance. It is also planted in shelter belts. Give the tiered mature form space and it will outlast everything else on the site.
About Atlas Cedar
It is a large tree. In Australian gardens expect 15 to 25 metres tall and 8 to 12 metres wide over several decades, and taller again on a deep, cool site. Growth is around 30 to 60 centimetres a year, so it takes its time. It is not a tree for a suburban courtyard.
Roughly 30 to 60 centimetres a year, which is moderate for a conifer. Growth is faster in the first fifteen or twenty years and slows as the crown broadens and flattens. Deep watering through the establishment years makes a noticeable difference. Trees on shallow or poorly drained ground grow slowly and never develop the same form.
Yes, once established. It comes from dry mountain country in North Africa and is well adapted to hot, dry summers with cold winters, which describes much of inland southern Australia. Water it through the first three summers to get roots down. After that it needs only occasional deep watering in extended drought.
Yes. It survives heavy and frequent frost without damage and handles snow, which makes it a sound choice for the alpine fringe, the tablelands, Canberra and cold Victorian and Tasmanian districts. Young trees benefit from shelter from severe drying wind in their first winter, but no frost protection is required.
They are the same species. Cedrus atlantica Glauca Group is a selection with strongly blue grey needles, while plants grown as the straight species range from green to grey green, sometimes with a blue cast. Form, size and cultural needs are identical, so the difference comes down to foliage colour alone.
No. Atlas Cedar develops a deep, spreading root system that is not aggressive towards pipes, footings or paving. The practical issue is size rather than roots, so allow at least 8 metres from a building for the mature crown. Avoid planting into shallow soil over rock, where anchorage is poor and growth suffers.
Plant into free-draining ground, stake only if the site is exposed, and water deeply but infrequently through the first three summers. Keep mulch clear of the trunk. Do not prune the leader or shorten the lower limbs unnecessarily, since the tiered form depends on them. Feeding is rarely needed in reasonable soil.
Cupressus sempervirens 'Glauca', commonly known as Pencil Pine, is a tall, narrow evergreen tree famed for its iconic columnar shape and Mediterranean elegance. Growing 8-12 metres tall and just 1-1.5 metres wide, it offers striking vertical definition and year-round structure with a minimal footprint, perfect for formal landscapes.
Ideal for framing driveways, entrances, garden borders, or creating structured rows, Pencil Pine thrives in full sun, tolerates drought once established, and adapts well to various soil types. Its dense, fine blue-green foliage creates clean lines and a symmetrical form that bring sophistication to any outdoor space.
Low-maintenance and resilient, it adds height and a settled formality without crowding the garden, which is why it stays a standard choice for Mediterranean and classical designs.
About Cupressus sempervirens 'Glauca' Pencil Pine
Pencil Pine grows to 8-12 metres tall but only 1-1.5 metres wide, giving it a striking narrow columnar form.
Pencil Pine has a moderate growth rate of 30-60cm per year in well-drained conditions with full sun.
Pencil Pine thrives across most Australian climates and is particularly suited to Mediterranean conditions including SA, VIC, southern NSW, and parts of WA.
Yes. Pencil Pine is highly drought tolerant once established and performs well in dry, exposed, and coastal sites.
Plant 80cm-1.2 metres apart for a tight columnar row or hedge, or 2-3 metres for individual feature spacing.
Yes. Pencil Pine grows well in large pots (60L+) and is a classic choice for framing entrances and formal courtyard planting.
Yes. Pencil Pine handles frost well and grows happily in the cold inland and highland districts of Victoria, New South Wales and South Australia, including sites with regular winter frosts. Young trees appreciate a little shelter through their first winter or two while the roots establish. After that the fine blue-green foliage holds its colour through cold weather without burning.
Cupressus leylandii 'Better Green', commonly known as Better Green Leyland Cypress, is an improved and reliable alternative to traditional Leighton Green. Engineered for faster growth, a tighter form, and, most importantly, high resistance to cypress canker, it's a standout choice for long-term hedging, screening, and windbreaks in residential, rural, and commercial landscapes.
Growing 15-20 metres tall with a narrow spread of 3-4 metres, Better Green forms a dense, upright columnar screen ideal for privacy hedging, boundary planting, or shelterbelts. Its lush, rich green foliage remains vibrant year-round and responds well to pruning, making shape and size control easy.
Thriving in full sun to part shade, it tolerates wind, salt spray, drought, and urban pollution, while adapting well to most well-drained soil types. Once established, this cultivar is low maintenance and delivers fast, dependable screening wherever it's planted.
Perfect for privacy hedging, windbreaks, boundary screening, and large feature rows, Better Green combines speed, durability, and disease resistance for superior landscape performance.
Better Green or Leighton Green? Better Green is the improved Leyland Cypress, selected for faster growth, a tighter columnar form, and high resistance to cypress canker. The original Leighton Green is slightly more budget-friendly and equally fast but more prone to canker disease. Choose Better Green for long-term performance and Leighton Green for short-term screening where cost is the priority.
About Cupressus leylandii 'Better Green'
Better Green grows to 15-20 metres tall with a narrow spread of 3-4 metres, making it ideal for tall privacy hedging and windbreaks.
Better Green is one of Australia's fastest-growing privacy hedges, putting on 1-1.5 metres per year once established.
Better Green is an improved Leyland Cypress cultivar with faster growth, a tighter form, and high resistance to cypress canker. Leighton Green is the original cultivar, slightly cheaper but more susceptible to canker disease.
Yes. Better Green was specifically selected for high resistance to cypress canker, which is the main disease affecting traditional Leyland Cypress hedges in Australia.
Plant 80cm-1.2 metres apart for a dense, fast-establishing privacy screen.
Yes. Better Green tolerates wind, salt spray, and coastal exposure once established, making it a strong choice for coastal properties.
Trim lightly two to three times a year from spring through to early autumn, keeping every cut within the green outer growth. Like most conifers, Better Green will not reshoot from bare brown wood, so avoid cutting back into the older interior. Begin shaping while the hedge is young and it will stay dense and easy to hold at the height you want.
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Cedrus deodara holds a broad pyramidal frame with gracefully drooping branch tips and a nodding leader, softening what would otherwise be a rigid conifer silhouette. Fine blue-green needles catch light across the whole canopy, and the Himalayan Cedar lives for centuries.
Cedrus deodara grows to 15 to 30 metres tall and 6 to 14 metres wide at 60 to 90 centimetres per year, which is fast for a conifer of this stature. It needs genuine space and is best suited to parkland, large rural properties, avenues and civic landscapes rather than suburban gardens.
This is a frost hardy tree that survives heavy and frequent frost without damage, and it also handles drought and heat once established. It grows in full sun and requires free-draining soil, performing poorly where drainage is impeded.
About Cedrus deodara
The Himalayan Cedar reaches 15 to 30 metres tall and 6 to 14 metres wide. It is a very large tree requiring parkland or acreage scale rather than a suburban block.
It grows at 60 to 90 centimetres per year, which is fast for a conifer of this eventual size, and develops its graceful drooping form from a young age.
Deodara has distinctly drooping branch tips and a nodding leader, giving it a softer, more graceful silhouette than the stiffer Atlas or Lebanon cedars.
Yes. It survives heavy and frequent frost without damage and also tolerates heat and drought once established, making it adaptable across most of southern Australia.
Free-draining soil is essential. Cedrus deodara performs poorly in heavy waterlogged ground and will decline where drainage is impeded, regardless of other conditions.
It is very long-lived, with mature specimens routinely exceeding a century and older trees documented well beyond that. It is a genuine legacy planting.
Plant 10 to 12 metres apart for an avenue, and keep trees at least 15 metres from buildings and services given the eventual canopy spread.
