Most loved for its masses of vivid scarlet-red flowers in summer and its compact, grafted form suited to suburban gardens.
Approximate only. Minimum height important? Confirm with us.
Height guide & disclaimer
Height guide disclaimer: Height ranges are approximate only. As living products, plant heights naturally vary between individual plants, batches, and seasons. No guarantee is given that supplied plants will fall within the stated range. If minimum heights are required, you must confirm current batch heights with Evergreen Trees Direct prior to purchase. Variation in height is normal and is not grounds for return, refund, replacement, or compensation.
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Corymbia ficifolia 'Baby Scarlet' is a grafted dwarf form of the Red Flowering Gum, an evergreen native with a tight rounded head. Large scarlet flower clusters sit on the outside of the canopy over summer, held against broad dark green leaves. Grafting keeps both the flower colour and the mature size consistent.
Plant it in full sun with soil that drains freely. Growth runs at about 30 to 50 centimetres a year. It is drought hardy once settled and takes salt wind, so it does well in coastal and warm temperate gardens. Frost is the limit, so give it a protected spot in cold districts.
The size suits narrow verges, small front gardens and courtyard plantings where a seedling Red Flowering Gum would be far too much tree. Councils use it along local streets and in park beds for summer colour and bird activity. It delivers a native flowering feature in a very small footprint.
About Corymbia ficifolia 'Baby Scarlet'
It is a dwarf grafted form of the Red Flowering Gum, an evergreen Australian native with a compact rounded canopy. Large scarlet flower heads sit on the outside of the crown over summer against broad dark green leaves. Grafting onto hardy rootstock keeps both the flower colour and the mature size predictable.
Summer, roughly December through February, with the display running for several weeks. Flowers are held in big scarlet clusters at the ends of the branches where birds can reach them easily, followed by woody gumnuts. Flowering is heaviest on trees in full sun that have not been pushed along with high nitrogen fertiliser.
Around 3 metres tall with a spread of 2 to 3 metres, which is a fraction of the size of a seedling Red Flowering Gum. The canopy stays rounded and reasonably tight without shaping. In a large pot, or on poor shallow soil, it will sit at the smaller end of that range.
No. This one is frost sensitive and cold snaps damage new growth and flower buds. Plant it in a frost free or protected position, against a north facing wall or under high canopy in cold districts. In frost prone areas it is better grown in a large pot that can be moved through winter.
Yes. Red Flowering Gums come from south west Western Australia and take salt laden wind well once established. Plant it behind the first line of dune vegetation rather than in direct salt spray, and give it free draining soil. Humidity on the east coast can bring leaf spot, so allow air movement around the canopy.
Yes, in a pot at least 60 centimetres across with a free draining mix. Potted trees stay smaller and need watering through summer plus a slow release native fertiliser each spring. Repot or root prune every few years. A pot also lets you shift it out of frost, which suits cooler gardens.
Keep water up through the first two summers, after which it manages on rainfall in most seasons. Use a low phosphorus native fertiliser in spring. Prune straight after flowering if you want to tidy the shape, cutting back to a leaf node rather than into bare wood. Never cut below the graft union.
| Pot / bag size | Width | Depth |
|---|---|---|
| 30cm Pot | 33cm | 30cm |
| 40cm/45L Pot | 44cm | 41.5cm |
| 50cm Pot / 70L Pot | 55cm | 41.8cm |
| 100L Bag | 50.6cm | 52.8cm |
| 150L Bag | 66cm | 55cm |
| 200L Bag | 71.5cm | 60.5cm |
| 300L Bag | 88cm | 63.8cm |
| 400L Bag | 99cm | 66cm |
| 500L Bag | 122cm | 66cm |
| 750L Bag | 134cm | 69cm |
| 1000L Bag | 146.3cm | 71.5cm |
| 2000L Bag | 176cm | 82.5cm |
General planting reference from our existing size guide. Actual containers can vary by supplier and batch; confirm exact dimensions if required.
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Enter the length of your boundary, then choose how closely you want to plant.
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Measure only the boundary you intend to plant—exclude gates and gaps. Spacing is centre to centre. Quantities are rounded up for one row, allowing roughly half the spacing at each end. Site conditions and pruning affect the final hedge.
Corymbia ficifolia 'Baby Scarlet' is a grafted dwarf form of the Red Flowering Gum, an evergreen native with a tight rounded head. Large scarlet flower clusters sit on the outside of the canopy over summer, held against broad dark green leaves. Grafting keeps both the flower colour and the mature size consistent.
Plant it in full sun with soil that drains freely. Growth runs at about 30 to 50 centimetres a year. It is drought hardy once settled and takes salt wind, so it does well in coastal and warm temperate gardens. Frost is the limit, so give it a protected spot in cold districts.
The size suits narrow verges, small front gardens and courtyard plantings where a seedling Red Flowering Gum would be far too much tree. Councils use it along local streets and in park beds for summer colour and bird activity. It delivers a native flowering feature in a very small footprint.
About Corymbia ficifolia 'Baby Scarlet'
It is a dwarf grafted form of the Red Flowering Gum, an evergreen Australian native with a compact rounded canopy. Large scarlet flower heads sit on the outside of the crown over summer against broad dark green leaves. Grafting onto hardy rootstock keeps both the flower colour and the mature size predictable.
Summer, roughly December through February, with the display running for several weeks. Flowers are held in big scarlet clusters at the ends of the branches where birds can reach them easily, followed by woody gumnuts. Flowering is heaviest on trees in full sun that have not been pushed along with high nitrogen fertiliser.
Around 3 metres tall with a spread of 2 to 3 metres, which is a fraction of the size of a seedling Red Flowering Gum. The canopy stays rounded and reasonably tight without shaping. In a large pot, or on poor shallow soil, it will sit at the smaller end of that range.
No. This one is frost sensitive and cold snaps damage new growth and flower buds. Plant it in a frost free or protected position, against a north facing wall or under high canopy in cold districts. In frost prone areas it is better grown in a large pot that can be moved through winter.
Yes. Red Flowering Gums come from south west Western Australia and take salt laden wind well once established. Plant it behind the first line of dune vegetation rather than in direct salt spray, and give it free draining soil. Humidity on the east coast can bring leaf spot, so allow air movement around the canopy.
Yes, in a pot at least 60 centimetres across with a free draining mix. Potted trees stay smaller and need watering through summer plus a slow release native fertiliser each spring. Repot or root prune every few years. A pot also lets you shift it out of frost, which suits cooler gardens.
Keep water up through the first two summers, after which it manages on rainfall in most seasons. Use a low phosphorus native fertiliser in spring. Prune straight after flowering if you want to tidy the shape, cutting back to a leaf node rather than into bare wood. Never cut below the graft union.
Evergreen (foliage year round)
Corymbia ficifolia 'Baby Scarlet' is expected to grow 30cm to 50cm per year (approx.).
Corymbia ficifolia 'Baby Scarlet' works in an:
Corymbia ficifolia 'Baby Scarlet' is an Evergreen (foliage year round) Tree
Mature Height: 3m to 6m (approx.)
Mature Width: 2.5m to 3m
Corymbia ficifolia 'Baby Scarlet' is expected to grow 30cm to 50cm per year (approx.).
Corymbia ficifolia 'Baby Scarlet' is expected to grow 30cm to 50cm per year (approx.).
They are considered to have a:
Is Corymbia ficifolia 'Baby Scarlet' frost tolerant?
Corymbia ficifolia 'Baby Scarlet' is Frost Sensitive – May suffer damage from frost, best in frost-free or protected spots.
Corymbia ficifolia ‘Baby Scarlet’ produces masses of bright scarlet-red fluffy flowers from mid-summer into early autumn. These large, showy flower clusters form at the ends of the branches, creating a bold, high-impact display perfectly suited to compact gardens seeking strong seasonal colour.
Does Corymbia ficifolia 'Baby Scarlet' flower?
Flowering Period:
Flower Type:
Flower Colour:
Red
Yes
Corymbia ficifolia 'Baby Scarlet' is Native to Derived from Corymbia ficifolia (Red Flowering Gum), which is native to the south coast of Western Australia around Albany, where it grows naturally in sandy, well-drained soils.
Its nectar-rich blooms attract honeyeaters, lorikeets, native bees, butterflies and other beneficial insects throughout summer. The dense evergreen canopy also provides shelter and nesting opportunities for small birds, supporting a vibrant and biodiverse garden ecosystem.
Corymbia ficifolia 'Baby Scarlet' will thrive best in:
Corymbia ficifolia ‘Baby Scarlet’ performs best in well-drained sandy or loam soils and tolerates slightly acidic to slightly alkaline conditions. It can struggle in heavy clay or poorly drained sites unless significantly improved with organic matter and coarse material to enhance aeration and drainage. Keep soil evenly moist during establishment, then move to deep, occasional watering as the tree matures and develops outstanding drought resilience and prolific summer flowering.
Is Corymbia ficifolia 'Baby Scarlet' Drought tolerant?
As a young tree it requires regular watering, but once established ‘Baby Scarlet’ develops excellent drought tolerance. It thrives in hot, dry and coastal environments, maintaining dense foliage and reliable flowering with minimal supplementary watering.
Enquire for current heights
Enquire for current heights
Enquire for current heights
Heights are approximate and vary between individual trees.
We take pride in supplying A+ grade advanced trees. When stock at our farm is not yet ready, we work with our trusted trade suppliers to source the best available trees for your garden.
Enriched Planting Mix is a certified organic blend of Pure Magic Compost, composted animal manure, gypsum, composted coarse bark and a wetting agent, bagged in 30L. It is built to be dug through existing garden soil at planting time rather than used on its own, and the gypsum is what sets it apart from a plain compost.
Gypsum helps break up heavy clay so water and roots can move through it, while the compost and manure return organic matter and nutrient to tired ground. The coarse bark holds structure and keeps air around the root zone, and the wetting agent keeps moisture in the soil longer after rain or watering.
Use it when planting trees, shrubs, roses, fruit trees and exotic garden plants, particularly into clay. Dig a hole twice the width of the pot and 7 centimetres deeper, then mix roughly one third planting mix through the excavated soil. Spread 7 centimetres of that improved soil in the base before setting the plant in.
About Enriched Planting Mix
It is a blend of Pure Magic Compost, composted animal manure, gypsum, composted coarse bark and a wetting agent. Each part has a job. The compost and manure supply organic matter and nutrient, the gypsum works on clay structure, the bark keeps air around the roots and the wetting agent holds moisture in the soil.
It suits exotic garden plants, including roses, ornamental and deciduous trees, fruit trees, shrubs and perennials, and it earns its keep most on heavy clay sites. It is a planting mix rather than a potting mix, so its job is improving soil at planting time. Phosphorus sensitive natives are the one clear exception.
No, not for the phosphorus sensitive ones. The composted animal manure in this blend lifts phosphorus well above what Proteaceae such as Banksia, Grevillea, Hakea and Protea will tolerate, and the result can be leaf burn, dieback and plant death. Use the Native Potting Mix for those species, or plant them into unimproved local soil.
Yes. It is a certified organic product with no chemical additives, which is why the manure and compost in it are fully composted rather than raw. That makes it sound around fruit trees and vegetable beds, and it means you are adding genuine organic matter to your soil rather than a synthetic conditioner.
Work on roughly one third planting mix to two thirds of the soil you dug out of the hole. For a shrub out of a 200 millimetre pot that is only a few litres. An advanced tree going into a large hole will take considerably more. Judge the quantity by the volume of the hole rather than the size of the plant.
It is not a potting mix and should not be used on its own in a container. The blend is designed to be diluted through garden soil, and used straight in a pot it holds too much water and settles badly. For containers, reach for a premium potting mix, or the native mix if you are potting natives.
Yes. Water the plant well several hours before you plant it, then water thoroughly again once the hole is backfilled and the soil firmed down. That first deep watering settles the improved soil around the root ball and drives out air pockets. Keep the water up over the first few months while the roots establish.
Enriched Planting Mix is a certified organic blend of Pure Magic Compost, composted animal manure, gypsum, composted coarse bark and a wetting agent, bagged in 30L. It is built to be dug through existing garden soil at planting time rather than used on its own, and the gypsum is what sets it apart from a plain compost.
Gypsum helps break up heavy clay so water and roots can move through it, while the compost and manure return organic matter and nutrient to tired ground. The coarse bark holds structure and keeps air around the root zone, and the wetting agent keeps moisture in the soil longer after rain or watering.
Use it when planting trees, shrubs, roses, fruit trees and exotic garden plants, particularly into clay. Dig a hole twice the width of the pot and 7 centimetres deeper, then mix roughly one third planting mix through the excavated soil. Spread 7 centimetres of that improved soil in the base before setting the plant in.
About Enriched Planting Mix
It is a blend of Pure Magic Compost, composted animal manure, gypsum, composted coarse bark and a wetting agent. Each part has a job. The compost and manure supply organic matter and nutrient, the gypsum works on clay structure, the bark keeps air around the roots and the wetting agent holds moisture in the soil.
It suits exotic garden plants, including roses, ornamental and deciduous trees, fruit trees, shrubs and perennials, and it earns its keep most on heavy clay sites. It is a planting mix rather than a potting mix, so its job is improving soil at planting time. Phosphorus sensitive natives are the one clear exception.
No, not for the phosphorus sensitive ones. The composted animal manure in this blend lifts phosphorus well above what Proteaceae such as Banksia, Grevillea, Hakea and Protea will tolerate, and the result can be leaf burn, dieback and plant death. Use the Native Potting Mix for those species, or plant them into unimproved local soil.
Yes. It is a certified organic product with no chemical additives, which is why the manure and compost in it are fully composted rather than raw. That makes it sound around fruit trees and vegetable beds, and it means you are adding genuine organic matter to your soil rather than a synthetic conditioner.
Work on roughly one third planting mix to two thirds of the soil you dug out of the hole. For a shrub out of a 200 millimetre pot that is only a few litres. An advanced tree going into a large hole will take considerably more. Judge the quantity by the volume of the hole rather than the size of the plant.
It is not a potting mix and should not be used on its own in a container. The blend is designed to be diluted through garden soil, and used straight in a pot it holds too much water and settles badly. For containers, reach for a premium potting mix, or the native mix if you are potting natives.
Yes. Water the plant well several hours before you plant it, then water thoroughly again once the hole is backfilled and the soil firmed down. That first deep watering settles the improved soil around the root ball and drives out air pockets. Keep the water up over the first few months while the roots establish.
Pittosporum tenuifolium 'Silver Sheen' carries small shimmering silver-green leaves on near-black stems, giving a light airy screen that moves in the wind rather than reading as a solid green wall. It is one of the most widely specified screening plants in Australian landscape design for exactly that reason.
'Silver Sheen' grows to 4 to 6 metres tall but only 1.5 to 2 metres wide at 30 to 60 centimetres per year, which makes it a genuine solution for narrow beds along fence lines and between buildings where height is needed but width is not available. Small cream flowers appear in spring and are lightly fragrant.
'Silver Sheen' grows in full sun to part shade and tolerates light to moderate frost once established, performing from subtropical Queensland through Sydney, Melbourne, Gippsland and Adelaide. It clips well, holds density under regular trimming, and is equally effective as a formal hedge or a loose screen.
About Pittosporum tenuifolium 'Silver Sheen'
'Silver Sheen' grows to 4 to 6 metres tall and only 1.5 to 2 metres wide, which makes it one of the best options for narrow screening where a tall hedge is needed in a shallow bed.
It grows at 30 to 60 centimetres per year once established, reaching a usable screening height within three to four years with regular water and feeding.
It naturally holds to 1.5 to 2 metres wide and can be trimmed to under a metre with regular clipping, which is why it is so often used in tight side-boundary positions.
Plant 1 to 1.5 metres apart for a dense informal screen, or 80 centimetres apart for a tighter formal hedge. Closer spacing fills in faster but needs more trimming.
'Silver Sheen' handles light to moderate frost once established. Young plants benefit from protection through their first winter in colder inland districts.
Yes. It performs in full sun through to part shade. In shadier positions growth is slightly more open, which suits a softer informal screen.
It performs from subtropical Queensland through Northern NSW, Sydney, the South Coast and tablelands, Melbourne and surrounds, the Western District, Gippsland and Adelaide.
Grevillea x 'Moonlight' carries very large creamy-white toothbrush flower spikes almost continuously through the year, each one up to 20 centimetres long and heavily worked by honeyeaters. Few native shrubs flower this hard for this long.
'Moonlight' grows to 4 to 6 metres tall but only around 2 metres wide at 20 to 40 centimetres per year, giving a tall narrow frame clothed in fine silver-green divided foliage. That upright habit suits narrow garden beds, screening along a fence line, or a single feature in a large pot.
This Australian native grows in full sun to part shade, tolerates light to moderate frost once established, and is highly drought tolerant. It needs free-draining soil and low-phosphorus feeding, and rewards a light prune after each main flowering flush with denser growth.
About Grevillea 'Moonlight'
'Moonlight' grows to 4 to 6 metres tall and only around 2 metres wide, giving an unusually tall narrow form for a grevillea. It suits narrow beds and screening positions.
'Moonlight' flowers close to year round, with the heaviest flushes in spring and autumn. The large creamy-white toothbrush spikes can reach 20 centimetres long.
Yes. The nectar-rich flowers are a magnet for honeyeaters and other nectar-feeding birds, and the dense fine foliage provides shelter for smaller species.
It grows at a moderate 20 to 40 centimetres per year, reaching a usable screening height within four to five years in a warm free-draining position.
It requires free-draining soil and will not tolerate waterlogging. Use only low-phosphorus native fertiliser, as grevilleas and other Proteaceae are damaged by high-phosphorus formulations.
Yes. Once established it is highly drought tolerant and needs only occasional deep watering through extended dry spells.
Yes. A light prune after each main flowering flush keeps the plant dense and prevents it becoming leggy at the base. Avoid cutting back hard into bare old wood.
Westringia 'Wynyabbie Blue' is a hardy Australian native shrub grown for its lilac blue flowers, which are larger and more freely carried than those of the common white forms. Narrow grey green leaves sit in neat whorls on a dense rounded frame that holds its shape through the year.
Expect 1.5 to 2 metres in height and width at maturity, at 30 to 60 centimetres a year. Full sun brings the heaviest flowering, though part shade is accepted. Drainage matters above everything else, after which it takes salt wind, sandy or gravelly ground, drought and light to moderate frost.
Mass plantings on batters, median strips and coastal frontages are where it earns its keep, and it clips into a low hedge of about a metre without losing its flowering. Plant 1 to 1.5 metres apart for an informal screen. One plant fills a 40 to 50 centimetre pot neatly.
About Wynyabbie Blue Coastal Rosemary
Westringia 'Wynyabbie Blue' is a hardy Australian native shrub grown for its lilac blue flowers, which are larger and more freely carried than those of the common white forms. Narrow grey green leaves sit in neat whorls on a dense rounded frame. It is evergreen and holds its structure all year.
It reaches 1.5 to 2 metres tall and 1.5 to 2 metres wide at maturity, growing 30 to 60 centimetres a year. It clips comfortably to around a metre if you want a lower hedge, and it will hold that height indefinitely given two or three light trims a year.
From spring right through autumn, roughly September to May, with sporadic flowers in winter in mild districts. The lilac blue flowers open in flushes rather than all at once, so there is usually some colour on the plant. Flowering is heaviest in full sun on lean, well drained soil.
Yes. Once the roots are established it needs very little water and copes with extended dry periods, which is why it is used on unirrigated median strips and road verges. Drainage matters more than watering, since the plant will die in soggy ground long before it dies of thirst.
It is. Salt laden wind, sandy soils and reflected heat are all handled, and it is planted routinely on foreshore reserves and beachside gardens. In very exposed frontal positions the plant stays lower and denser than it would inland, which generally suits the situation anyway.
Use 80 centimetres between plants for a clipped formal hedge, or 1 to 1.5 metres for a dense informal screen. For mass planting on banks and median strips, 1 metre in a staggered pattern gives full coverage within about two growing seasons and shades out most weeds.
Trim lightly after each flowering flush, taking soft growth only. Cutting back into bare old wood leaves gaps that will not fill in, so stay on top of it rather than letting it get away. Water through the first summer, then rarely. Avoid rich soils and heavy fertiliser.
Buxus microphylla var. japonica, sold as Japanese Box, is a dense evergreen shrub clipped here into clean topiary balls. The small, rounded, mid green leaves sit tightly along short stems, so the surface holds a crisp edge after cutting. Growth is naturally compact, which is what allows the ball shape to hold between trims.
It grows in full sun to part shade and accepts most soils that drain, from sandy loam through to improved clay. Cool temperate, temperate and subtropical districts all suit it, and established plants handle light to moderate frost. Growth runs about 15 to 25 centimetres a year, slow enough that the shape stays where you put it.
Balls are used to edge beds and paths, mark an entry, sit either side of a doorway, or repeat down a courtyard to give a planting rhythm. They also underplant feature trees neatly. Because the form arrives already grown, a bed reads finished from the day it goes in rather than years later.
About Japanese Box Topiary Balls
It is Buxus microphylla var. japonica grown on and clipped into a sphere. The plant does the same job as any box shrub, evergreen, small leaved and tolerant of cutting, but it arrives already shaped. Ball diameters run from around 30 centimetres up to large advanced specimens, and the shape is then held with two trims a year.
The ball is held at whatever diameter it is clipped to, commonly 30 to 70 centimetres, with larger specimens available in bigger containers. In the ground, overall height sits close to the ball diameter. Left entirely unclipped the species would slowly reach roughly 1.5 to 2 metres tall and wide over many years.
About 15 to 25 centimetres a year, which is slow to moderate. That pace is an advantage in topiary because the outline drifts gradually rather than running away between cuts. Two trims a year, one in early spring and one in late summer, are usually enough to keep the surface tight and the profile even.
Full sun to part shade both work. Full sun gives the densest, tightest surface, which matters when the appeal of the plant is a clean clipped edge. In hot inland gardens some afternoon shade prevents leaf scorch and bronzing. Deep shade thins the growth out and the ball loses its crisp outline.
Yes. Established plants handle light to moderate frost without damage, which covers most temperate and cool temperate gardens including Canberra, Melbourne and the southern tablelands. Newly planted stock is more exposed, so water it well going into winter and mulch the root zone. Any frost burnt tips can simply be trimmed off in spring.
Yes, they are one of the better plants for a container. A pot 40 to 50 centimetres wide suits a single ball for a courtyard, entry or balcony. Use a quality potting mix, water once the top few centimetres dry out, and feed in spring and again in summer. Repot or refresh the mix every few years.
Trim twice a year with sharp shears, cutting lightly and often rather than hard. Feed in early spring with a slow release fertiliser and keep water up through summer. Mulch to about 50 millimetres, keeping it clear of the stem. Watch for box psyllid on soft new growth and treat early if the tips start to cup.
Trachelospermum jasminoides 'Balls' is Star Jasmine grown and clipped into a dense evergreen sphere. The small glossy leaves sit tight on a woody framework, holding a clean rounded outline year round. White pinwheel flowers open in spring and carry a strong sweet scent right across a courtyard.
Ball specimens hold at about 1 to 1.5 metres tall and wide with light clipping. Full sun to part shade suits them, in any free draining soil. Growth is slow to moderate at 30 to 50 centimetres a year. They handle coastal exposure, light frost and dry spells once the roots are down.
Repeat them along a driveway, either side of an entry, or in pots on a terrace where a formal shape is wanted straight away. They read as structure in a planting scheme without the height of a hedge, and because the form is already trained, a new garden looks settled from the day it goes in.
About Star Jasmine Balls
They are Trachelospermum jasminoides, the common Star Jasmine, grown and clipped into a dense evergreen sphere on a woody framework. Instead of climbing, the plant is trained into a self supporting rounded shape. The foliage is small, glossy and dark green, and the plant carries scented white flowers through spring.
They hold at roughly 1 to 1.5 metres tall and 1 to 1.5 metres wide. Growth is slow to moderate at 30 to 50 centimetres a year, so a light clip once or twice a year keeps the ball tight at whatever size within that range suits the setting.
Full sun to part shade both work. Full sun gives the densest foliage and the heaviest flowering, while part shade produces slightly softer, more open growth and fewer flowers. Avoid deep shade, where the ball thins out and loses its outline. Morning sun with afternoon protection suits hot inland gardens.
Yes, and pots are one of the main uses. A container 50 to 60 centimetres wide with a quality free draining mix will hold a ball for years. Water more often than you would in the ground, especially in summer, and feed in spring and again in late summer. Refresh the mix every few years.
Yes, the foliage is held year round. The glossy dark green leaves take on a bronze tinge in cold weather and green up again in spring, but the plant never goes bare. That is what makes it useful as permanent structure in a scheme, particularly in winter once perennials have died back.
Flowering runs through spring, roughly September to November, and often carries into early summer in warmer districts. The white pinwheel flowers are small but produced in quantity, and the scent is strong on still evenings. Flowering is heaviest on plants in full sun that were not clipped hard just before bud set.
Clip lightly with hedging shears once after flowering and again in late summer if needed, taking only the new growth to keep the outline crisp. Water deeply in dry weather, mulch the base, and feed in early spring. The sap is milky and can irritate skin, so wear gloves when trimming.
Westringia fruticosa, Coastal Rosemary, is an Australian native evergreen shrub from the headlands and dunes of the east coast. It builds a dense rounded bush of fine grey green leaves held in whorls, with small white to pale lilac flowers. Despite the common name it is not the culinary herb.
Mature plants sit at 1.5 to 2 metres tall and 1.5 to 2 metres wide, growing 30 to 60 centimetres a year, and they clip smaller without complaint. Full sun to part shade and sharp drainage are the requirements. Salt wind, sandy soil, drought and light to moderate frost are all handled.
It is a standard on coastal projects, road verges, council garden beds and exposed banks that need erosion cover. Plant 1 to 1.5 metres apart for an informal screen, or 80 centimetres for a clipped hedge. A single plant fills a 40 to 50 centimetre pot on a courtyard or balcony.
About Coastal Rosemary
Westringia fruticosa is an Australian native evergreen shrub from the headlands and dunes of the east coast. It forms a dense rounded bush of fine grey green leaves held in whorls, with small white to pale lilac flowers. Despite the common name it is not culinary rosemary and is not used in cooking.
Mature plants reach 1.5 to 2 metres tall and 1.5 to 2 metres wide. It clips readily to smaller dimensions and is often maintained at around a metre as a hedge or a low mound. Growth is moderate, roughly 30 to 60 centimetres a year, so it holds a trimmed shape well.
It is one of the best shrubs available for exposed coastal work. It grows naturally on sea cliffs and copes with salt laden wind, sand and reflected heat. It is used constantly on beachfront reserves, dune stabilisation projects and seaside gardens where little else holds a tidy shape.
The main flush is spring and summer, roughly September through February, with scattered flowering at other times of the year in mild districts. The flowers are small, white to pale lilac and sit among the foliage rather than above it. Clipped hedges flower less than plants left to grow informally.
Space plants 80 centimetres apart for a tight formal hedge, or 1 to 1.5 metres apart for a dense informal screen. On banks and batters used for erosion cover, 1 metre in a staggered grid gives full ground coverage within about two growing seasons.
Yes. A pot 40 to 50 centimetres wide suits a single plant for a courtyard, entry or balcony. Use a free draining mix, because the roots will not tolerate sitting wet. Container plants need watering more often than those in the ground, plus a light trim to hold their shape.
Trim lightly two or three times a year, taking the soft new growth and avoiding cuts into bare old wood, which reshoots poorly. Water through the first summer, then only in extended dry spells. On most soils it needs no feeding at all, and it resents heavy watering and poor drainage.
Corymbia ficifolia produces the most spectacular flowering display of any Australian tree, smothering its canopy in dense clusters of scarlet to orange blossom through summer and autumn. The Red Flowering Gum is worked constantly by lorikeets and honeyeaters while it is in bloom.
Corymbia ficifolia grows to 6 to 10 metres tall and 5 to 10 metres wide at 40 to 60 centimetres per year, forming a compact rounded canopy on a short trunk. That modest scale, unusual among eucalypts, makes it viable as a street tree and a feature in an ordinary suburban garden.
This Australian native grows in full sun and is frost sensitive, so it suits frost-free coastal and warm inland positions. It requires free drainage and dislikes summer humidity, performing best in Mediterranean climates such as Perth, Adelaide and coastal Victoria.
About Corymbia ficifolia
The Red Flowering Gum reaches 6 to 10 metres tall and 5 to 10 metres wide with a compact rounded canopy, making it one of the smaller and more garden-friendly eucalypts.
Dense clusters of scarlet to orange blossom appear through summer and into autumn, smothering the canopy. It is among the most spectacular flowering trees grown in Australia.
Yes. The nectar-rich blossom is worked heavily by lorikeets, honeyeaters and native bees throughout the flowering period.
No. It is frost sensitive, particularly when young, and performs best in frost-free coastal and warm inland positions.
It is native to a small area of south-west Western Australia and performs best in Mediterranean climates with dry summers, such as Perth, Adelaide and coastal Victoria. Summer humidity causes problems.
Yes. Its compact size, short trunk and rounded canopy make it a common council choice for streetscapes in suitable climates.
Plant 5 to 6 metres apart for an avenue, or 6 to 8 metres apart as individual feature trees so each canopy can develop and flower fully.
Eucalyptus leucoxylon 'Euky Dwarf' is the eucalypt that fits a suburban block. It carries masses of pink to red blossom through winter, when honeyeaters need it most, on a tree that tops out at 6 metres rather than the 20 or more of the straight species.
'Euky Dwarf' grows to 4 to 6 metres tall and 3 to 5 metres wide at 0.5 to 1 metre per year, holding a neat rounded canopy on a smooth pale trunk. That compact scale makes it viable as a street tree under powerlines, a courtyard feature, or an avenue on a narrow verge where a full-sized gum would never work.
This Australian native grows in full sun and tolerates light to moderate frost once established, along with drought, poor soils and coastal exposure. It is one of the few eucalypts genuinely suited to large pots, and needs no routine pruning.
About Eucalyptus leucoxylon 'Euky Dwarf'
'Euky Dwarf' grows to 4 to 6 metres tall and 3 to 5 metres wide. It is a selected compact form of Eucalyptus leucoxylon, which normally reaches well over 15 metres.
Flowering runs through winter, with pink to red blossom carried heavily across the canopy. Winter flowering makes it a valuable nectar source when little else is in bloom.
Yes. Its mature height of 4 to 6 metres makes it one of the standard council choices for planting beneath powerlines, where taller eucalypts cannot be used.
It grows at 0.5 to 1 metre per year once established, reaching close to mature height within six to eight years.
Yes. The winter blossom is worked heavily by honeyeaters, lorikeets and native bees, and the canopy provides shelter for smaller birds.
Yes. It is one of the few eucalypts that performs in a large pot, provided drainage is free and it sits in full sun. Expect a smaller ultimate size in a container.
It handles light to moderate frost once established. Protect young trees through their first winter in colder inland districts.
Corymbia citriodora 'Scentuous' is a dwarf form of the iconic Lemon Scented Gum, delivering the signature citrus fragrance of the species in a compact 5-7 metre form. The aromatic pale green foliage releases a strong, clean lemon scent when crushed or brushed against, and the airy white flower clusters in late summer attract bees, butterflies, and honeyeaters.
Scentuous reaches just 5-7 metres tall and 3-4 metres wide, compared to 25-35 metres for standard Corymbia citriodora, making it the only Lemon Scented Gum suited to suburban gardens, courtyards, patios, and small streetscapes. The compact size keeps the fragrance close to where it is enjoyed, and the smooth pale trunk adds quiet structural interest year-round.
Highly drought and heat tolerant once established, Scentuous performs reliably across NSW, QLD, VIC, SA and WA in full sun with well-drained soils. It is low maintenance, tolerates light frost once established, and is widely planted as a feature tree where the standard species would simply outgrow the space.
Scentuous or standard Lemon Scented Gum? Scentuous is a compact dwarf form reaching just 5-7m, suited to suburban gardens, small landscapes, and patio planting. The standard Corymbia citriodora grows 25-35m with a tall slender trunk and is better suited to acreage, parks, and large feature plantings. Both share the famous lemon fragrance.
About Corymbia citriodora 'Scentuous' Dwarf Lemon Scented Gum
Scentuous is a dwarf cultivar reaching 5-7 metres tall and 3-4 metres wide, compared to 25-35m for the standard Corymbia citriodora.
Scentuous is fast-growing, adding 60cm to 1 metre per year once established.
The leaves release a strong, pleasant lemon citrus fragrance when crushed or brushed against, thanks to high concentrations of citronellal in the foliage.
Scentuous is a compact dwarf form reaching 5-7m, suited to suburban gardens and small landscapes. Standard Corymbia citriodora grows 25-35m and is better suited to acreage, parks, and large feature plantings.
Yes. Scentuous inherits the strong drought tolerance of Corymbia citriodora and performs well across most Australian climates once established.
Yes. The white flowers produced through summer attract native bees, butterflies, honeyeaters, and lorikeets. The aromatic foliage is also believed to deter mosquitoes.
Scentuous thrives across NSW, QLD, VIC, SA and WA. It tolerates light frost once established and prefers full sun with well-drained soils.
Corymbia eximia 'Nana' is the dwarf form of the Yellow Bloodwood, a small evergreen native tree with a rounded, densely held canopy. The broad blue-green leaves sit above pale, flaky bark, and clusters of creamy white flowers open through spring. Growth is naturally compact, so the tree keeps its shape without much intervention.
It grows at roughly 40 to 60 centimetres a year in full sun to part shade, and prefers soil that drains freely. Once established it handles dry spells well and copes with light to moderate frost, which suits warm temperate, subtropical and inland districts. Maintenance comes down to occasional shaping and a spring feed.
Councils and developers use it as a street tree under powerlines, in car park islands and in median strips where a full sized bloodwood would never fit. It also works as a single feature in a courtyard, or as a shade tree on a rural block. Small footprint, genuine canopy.
About Corymbia eximia 'Nana'
It is a dwarf selection of the Yellow Bloodwood, a small evergreen Australian native tree in the Myrtaceae family. It carries broad blue-green foliage on a rounded, dense canopy, with creamy white flowers through spring that bring in honeyeaters and lorikeets. The pale flaky bark gives it interest through the rest of the year.
Expect about 4 to 6 metres in height with a canopy spread of 3 to 4 metres in an average garden. That is roughly a third of the size of the standard Yellow Bloodwood, which can pass 15 metres. Final height depends on soil depth and water, with trees on shallow dry sites staying at the lower end.
Around 40 to 60 centimetres a year once the root system is away, which is moderate for a native tree. The first two summers set the pace, so deep watering through that period pays off later. Growth slows as the tree nears mature height, and the canopy thickens rather than continuing to climb.
Full sun is best and gives the heaviest flowering and the densest canopy. It will grow in part shade, but the crown opens up and flower numbers drop away. Avoid planting it on the south side of a tall building or under an established canopy where it will only ever get an hour or two of direct light.
Yes. Once established it handles light to moderate frost, which covers most temperate and inland districts. Young trees are more exposed, so protect them through the first winter or two with frost cloth or a sheltered position. It also takes heat and dry conditions, making it a dependable choice for inland gardens.
Space trees 3 metres apart for an even avenue where the canopies just meet, or 3 to 4 metres apart where each tree is meant to stand alone and show its full form. On narrow verges stick to the wider spacing so root plates and canopies are not competing with each other.
Water deeply once or twice a week through the first two summers, then only in long dry spells. Mulch out to the drip line but keep it clear of the trunk. A low phosphorus native fertiliser in early spring is enough. Prune lightly after flowering to lift the crown or remove crossing branches.
Out of stock
Corymbia ficifolia 'Baby Scarlet' is a grafted dwarf form of the Red Flowering Gum, an evergreen native with a tight rounded head. Large scarlet flower clusters sit on the outside of the canopy over summer, held against broad dark green leaves. Grafting keeps both the flower colour and the mature size consistent.
Plant it in full sun with soil that drains freely. Growth runs at about 30 to 50 centimetres a year. It is drought hardy once settled and takes salt wind, so it does well in coastal and warm temperate gardens. Frost is the limit, so give it a protected spot in cold districts.
The size suits narrow verges, small front gardens and courtyard plantings where a seedling Red Flowering Gum would be far too much tree. Councils use it along local streets and in park beds for summer colour and bird activity. It delivers a native flowering feature in a very small footprint.
About Corymbia ficifolia 'Baby Scarlet'
It is a dwarf grafted form of the Red Flowering Gum, an evergreen Australian native with a compact rounded canopy. Large scarlet flower heads sit on the outside of the crown over summer against broad dark green leaves. Grafting onto hardy rootstock keeps both the flower colour and the mature size predictable.
Summer, roughly December through February, with the display running for several weeks. Flowers are held in big scarlet clusters at the ends of the branches where birds can reach them easily, followed by woody gumnuts. Flowering is heaviest on trees in full sun that have not been pushed along with high nitrogen fertiliser.
Around 3 metres tall with a spread of 2 to 3 metres, which is a fraction of the size of a seedling Red Flowering Gum. The canopy stays rounded and reasonably tight without shaping. In a large pot, or on poor shallow soil, it will sit at the smaller end of that range.
No. This one is frost sensitive and cold snaps damage new growth and flower buds. Plant it in a frost free or protected position, against a north facing wall or under high canopy in cold districts. In frost prone areas it is better grown in a large pot that can be moved through winter.
Yes. Red Flowering Gums come from south west Western Australia and take salt laden wind well once established. Plant it behind the first line of dune vegetation rather than in direct salt spray, and give it free draining soil. Humidity on the east coast can bring leaf spot, so allow air movement around the canopy.
Yes, in a pot at least 60 centimetres across with a free draining mix. Potted trees stay smaller and need watering through summer plus a slow release native fertiliser each spring. Repot or root prune every few years. A pot also lets you shift it out of frost, which suits cooler gardens.
Keep water up through the first two summers, after which it manages on rainfall in most seasons. Use a low phosphorus native fertiliser in spring. Prune straight after flowering if you want to tidy the shape, cutting back to a leaf node rather than into bare wood. Never cut below the graft union.
