Most loved for its swollen trunk base and long, cascading strappy foliage.
Approximate only. Minimum height important? Confirm with us.
Height guide & disclaimer
Height guide disclaimer: Height ranges are approximate only. As living products, plant heights naturally vary between individual plants, batches, and seasons. No guarantee is given that supplied plants will fall within the stated range. If minimum heights are required, you must confirm current batch heights with Evergreen Trees Direct prior to purchase. Variation in height is normal and is not grounds for return, refund, replacement, or compensation.
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Beaucarnea recurvata, known everywhere as the Ponytail Palm, is not a palm at all but a succulent-stemmed member of the Asparagaceae family. A swollen grey-barked base tapers into a slim trunk topped with long, narrow leaves that arch and fall in a loose fountain. The form is sculptural and unmistakable.
It wants full sun to part shade and gritty, free-draining soil that never stays wet. Warm temperate, subtropical and dry inland gardens suit it best. It is frost sensitive, so give it a sheltered position in cold districts. Growth is slow, about 5 to 10 centimetres a year, and water needs are minimal once settled.
It works as a courtyard specimen, a potted feature beside a doorway, or repeated through a dry garden for rhythm. Interior atriums and well-lit foyers suit it too, since it tolerates low water and general neglect. For a designer it delivers strong form in a small footprint with very little ongoing input.
About Ponytail Palm
Beaucarnea recurvata is a slow-growing succulent species from Mexico, sold as the Ponytail Palm. Despite the name it is not a palm; it sits in the Asparagaceae family. Water is stored in a swollen woody base called a caudex, above which a slim trunk carries a cascading head of long narrow leaves.
In an Australian garden expect around 2 to 4 metres tall with a canopy spread of about 2 metres, reached over many years. Container-grown plants stay considerably smaller, usually 1 to 1.5 metres, because the root run is limited. Allow 3 to 4 metres between specimens if you want each caudex and head to develop fully.
Slowly. Around 5 to 10 centimetres a year in good conditions, and less in a pot or in cooler districts. That pace is part of the appeal, since a planted specimen holds its proportions for years without outgrowing its position. Advanced stock is the practical way to get immediate size from this species.
Treat it as frost sensitive. Light frost scorches the leaf tips and a hard frost can rot the growing point. Plant it in a warm, sheltered position with good drainage, ideally near a sunny north-facing wall, or grow it in a pot that can be moved under cover through winter in cold districts.
Yes, it is one of the better container subjects. Use a wide, heavy pot with a gritty free-draining mix and let it dry out between waterings. Indoors it needs the brightest position available, ideally beside a large window, and far less water than most houseplants. Overwatering is the usual cause of failure.
Beaucarnea recurvata is not known to be toxic to cats, dogs or people, and it carries no spines or thorns. The leaf tips are fine and can be sharp enough to catch an eye at head height, so keep taller specimens back from paths where small children play. Otherwise it is an easy plant to live with.
Water deeply but infrequently, letting the soil dry well between times, and cut watering right back over winter. Feed once in spring with a slow-release fertiliser. Remove spent lower leaves by hand rather than cutting the trunk. Never prune the growing tip, and make sure the caudex sits above soil level so it cannot rot.
| Pot / bag size | Width | Depth |
|---|---|---|
| 30cm Pot | 33cm | 30cm |
| 40cm/45L Pot | 44cm | 41.5cm |
| 50cm Pot / 70L Pot | 55cm | 41.8cm |
| 100L Bag | 50.6cm | 52.8cm |
| 150L Bag | 66cm | 55cm |
| 200L Bag | 71.5cm | 60.5cm |
| 300L Bag | 88cm | 63.8cm |
| 400L Bag | 99cm | 66cm |
| 500L Bag | 122cm | 66cm |
| 750L Bag | 134cm | 69cm |
| 1000L Bag | 146.3cm | 71.5cm |
| 2000L Bag | 176cm | 82.5cm |
General planting reference from our existing size guide. Actual containers can vary by supplier and batch; confirm exact dimensions if required.
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Beaucarnea recurvata, known everywhere as the Ponytail Palm, is not a palm at all but a succulent-stemmed member of the Asparagaceae family. A swollen grey-barked base tapers into a slim trunk topped with long, narrow leaves that arch and fall in a loose fountain. The form is sculptural and unmistakable.
It wants full sun to part shade and gritty, free-draining soil that never stays wet. Warm temperate, subtropical and dry inland gardens suit it best. It is frost sensitive, so give it a sheltered position in cold districts. Growth is slow, about 5 to 10 centimetres a year, and water needs are minimal once settled.
It works as a courtyard specimen, a potted feature beside a doorway, or repeated through a dry garden for rhythm. Interior atriums and well-lit foyers suit it too, since it tolerates low water and general neglect. For a designer it delivers strong form in a small footprint with very little ongoing input.
About Ponytail Palm
Beaucarnea recurvata is a slow-growing succulent species from Mexico, sold as the Ponytail Palm. Despite the name it is not a palm; it sits in the Asparagaceae family. Water is stored in a swollen woody base called a caudex, above which a slim trunk carries a cascading head of long narrow leaves.
In an Australian garden expect around 2 to 4 metres tall with a canopy spread of about 2 metres, reached over many years. Container-grown plants stay considerably smaller, usually 1 to 1.5 metres, because the root run is limited. Allow 3 to 4 metres between specimens if you want each caudex and head to develop fully.
Slowly. Around 5 to 10 centimetres a year in good conditions, and less in a pot or in cooler districts. That pace is part of the appeal, since a planted specimen holds its proportions for years without outgrowing its position. Advanced stock is the practical way to get immediate size from this species.
Treat it as frost sensitive. Light frost scorches the leaf tips and a hard frost can rot the growing point. Plant it in a warm, sheltered position with good drainage, ideally near a sunny north-facing wall, or grow it in a pot that can be moved under cover through winter in cold districts.
Yes, it is one of the better container subjects. Use a wide, heavy pot with a gritty free-draining mix and let it dry out between waterings. Indoors it needs the brightest position available, ideally beside a large window, and far less water than most houseplants. Overwatering is the usual cause of failure.
Beaucarnea recurvata is not known to be toxic to cats, dogs or people, and it carries no spines or thorns. The leaf tips are fine and can be sharp enough to catch an eye at head height, so keep taller specimens back from paths where small children play. Otherwise it is an easy plant to live with.
Water deeply but infrequently, letting the soil dry well between times, and cut watering right back over winter. Feed once in spring with a slow-release fertiliser. Remove spent lower leaves by hand rather than cutting the trunk. Never prune the growing tip, and make sure the caudex sits above soil level so it cannot rot.
Evergreen (foliage year round)
Beaucarnea recurvata - Ponytail palm is expected to grow 0.2m to 0.5m per year (slow-growing).
Beaucarnea recurvata - Ponytail palm works in an:
Beaucarnea recurvata - Ponytail palm is an Evergreen (foliage year round) Tree
Mature Height: 2m to 4m
Mature Width: 1m to 3m
Beaucarnea recurvata - Ponytail palm is expected to grow 0.2m to 0.5m per year (slow-growing).
Beaucarnea recurvata - Ponytail palm is expected to grow 0.2m to 0.5m per year (slow-growing).
They are considered to have a:
Is Beaucarnea recurvata - Ponytail palm frost tolerant?
Beaucarnea recurvata - Ponytail palm is Frost Sensitive – May suffer damage from frost, best in frost-free or protected spots.
Beaucarnea recurvata produces tall, branched clusters of creamy-white flowers during the warmer months, though flowering is occasional in garden settings. When it does bloom, the airy sprays sit well above the foliage, adding a unique and elegant seasonal highlight.
Does Beaucarnea recurvata - Ponytail palm flower?
Flowering Period:
Flower Type:
Flower Colour:
Cream
No
Beaucarnea recurvata - Ponytail palm is Native to Native to arid regions of eastern Mexico.
Its summer flower sprays attract bees, hoverflies and other beneficial insects, while the dense fountain-like foliage offers shelter for small creatures at ground level. Its long-lasting structure contributes to a stable, resilient garden ecosystem.
Beaucarnea recurvata - Ponytail palm will thrive best in:
Beaucarnea recurvata performs best in well-drained sandy or loam soils and prefers slightly acidic to neutral conditions. It is highly intolerant of heavy clay or waterlogged soil unless significantly improved with organic matter and coarse material to increase drainage. Keep soil lightly moist during establishment, then transition to deep, occasional watering as it matures and develops its signature high drought resilience.
Is Beaucarnea recurvata - Ponytail palm Drought tolerant?
As a young plant it benefits from moderate watering, but once established Beaucarnea recurvata develops exceptional drought tolerance. Its swollen trunk stores water, allowing it to thrive in hot, dry and low-maintenance gardens with minimal supplementary watering.
Enquire for current heights
Approx. 0.6m – 0.7m
Enquire for current heights
Enquire for current heights
Enquire for current heights
Enquire for current heights
Heights are approximate and vary between individual trees.
We take pride in supplying A+ grade advanced trees. When stock at our farm is not yet ready, we work with our trusted trade suppliers to source the best available trees for your garden.
Enriched Planting Mix is a certified organic blend of Pure Magic Compost, composted animal manure, gypsum, composted coarse bark and a wetting agent, bagged in 30L. It is built to be dug through existing garden soil at planting time rather than used on its own, and the gypsum is what sets it apart from a plain compost.
Gypsum helps break up heavy clay so water and roots can move through it, while the compost and manure return organic matter and nutrient to tired ground. The coarse bark holds structure and keeps air around the root zone, and the wetting agent keeps moisture in the soil longer after rain or watering.
Use it when planting trees, shrubs, roses, fruit trees and exotic garden plants, particularly into clay. Dig a hole twice the width of the pot and 7 centimetres deeper, then mix roughly one third planting mix through the excavated soil. Spread 7 centimetres of that improved soil in the base before setting the plant in.
About Enriched Planting Mix
It is a blend of Pure Magic Compost, composted animal manure, gypsum, composted coarse bark and a wetting agent. Each part has a job. The compost and manure supply organic matter and nutrient, the gypsum works on clay structure, the bark keeps air around the roots and the wetting agent holds moisture in the soil.
It suits exotic garden plants, including roses, ornamental and deciduous trees, fruit trees, shrubs and perennials, and it earns its keep most on heavy clay sites. It is a planting mix rather than a potting mix, so its job is improving soil at planting time. Phosphorus sensitive natives are the one clear exception.
No, not for the phosphorus sensitive ones. The composted animal manure in this blend lifts phosphorus well above what Proteaceae such as Banksia, Grevillea, Hakea and Protea will tolerate, and the result can be leaf burn, dieback and plant death. Use the Native Potting Mix for those species, or plant them into unimproved local soil.
Yes. It is a certified organic product with no chemical additives, which is why the manure and compost in it are fully composted rather than raw. That makes it sound around fruit trees and vegetable beds, and it means you are adding genuine organic matter to your soil rather than a synthetic conditioner.
Work on roughly one third planting mix to two thirds of the soil you dug out of the hole. For a shrub out of a 200 millimetre pot that is only a few litres. An advanced tree going into a large hole will take considerably more. Judge the quantity by the volume of the hole rather than the size of the plant.
It is not a potting mix and should not be used on its own in a container. The blend is designed to be diluted through garden soil, and used straight in a pot it holds too much water and settles badly. For containers, reach for a premium potting mix, or the native mix if you are potting natives.
Yes. Water the plant well several hours before you plant it, then water thoroughly again once the hole is backfilled and the soil firmed down. That first deep watering settles the improved soil around the root ball and drives out air pockets. Keep the water up over the first few months while the roots establish.
Enriched Planting Mix is a certified organic blend of Pure Magic Compost, composted animal manure, gypsum, composted coarse bark and a wetting agent, bagged in 30L. It is built to be dug through existing garden soil at planting time rather than used on its own, and the gypsum is what sets it apart from a plain compost.
Gypsum helps break up heavy clay so water and roots can move through it, while the compost and manure return organic matter and nutrient to tired ground. The coarse bark holds structure and keeps air around the root zone, and the wetting agent keeps moisture in the soil longer after rain or watering.
Use it when planting trees, shrubs, roses, fruit trees and exotic garden plants, particularly into clay. Dig a hole twice the width of the pot and 7 centimetres deeper, then mix roughly one third planting mix through the excavated soil. Spread 7 centimetres of that improved soil in the base before setting the plant in.
About Enriched Planting Mix
It is a blend of Pure Magic Compost, composted animal manure, gypsum, composted coarse bark and a wetting agent. Each part has a job. The compost and manure supply organic matter and nutrient, the gypsum works on clay structure, the bark keeps air around the roots and the wetting agent holds moisture in the soil.
It suits exotic garden plants, including roses, ornamental and deciduous trees, fruit trees, shrubs and perennials, and it earns its keep most on heavy clay sites. It is a planting mix rather than a potting mix, so its job is improving soil at planting time. Phosphorus sensitive natives are the one clear exception.
No, not for the phosphorus sensitive ones. The composted animal manure in this blend lifts phosphorus well above what Proteaceae such as Banksia, Grevillea, Hakea and Protea will tolerate, and the result can be leaf burn, dieback and plant death. Use the Native Potting Mix for those species, or plant them into unimproved local soil.
Yes. It is a certified organic product with no chemical additives, which is why the manure and compost in it are fully composted rather than raw. That makes it sound around fruit trees and vegetable beds, and it means you are adding genuine organic matter to your soil rather than a synthetic conditioner.
Work on roughly one third planting mix to two thirds of the soil you dug out of the hole. For a shrub out of a 200 millimetre pot that is only a few litres. An advanced tree going into a large hole will take considerably more. Judge the quantity by the volume of the hole rather than the size of the plant.
It is not a potting mix and should not be used on its own in a container. The blend is designed to be diluted through garden soil, and used straight in a pot it holds too much water and settles badly. For containers, reach for a premium potting mix, or the native mix if you are potting natives.
Yes. Water the plant well several hours before you plant it, then water thoroughly again once the hole is backfilled and the soil firmed down. That first deep watering settles the improved soil around the root ball and drives out air pockets. Keep the water up over the first few months while the roots establish.
Buxus sempervirens English Box Topiary Balls are pre-clipped formal evergreen specimens, available in three mature sizes and ready to place. The tight, fine, dark green foliage holds a precise rounded form year-round and gives the classic formal topiary look that no other Buxus replicates. As one of our most consistently strong-selling products, our English Box topiary balls are well-shaped, well-rooted, and arrive in proportion to the pot size.
English Box performs best in cool to temperate climates and is slow growing at around 15 to 25 cm per year in good conditions, which is exactly why it holds sharp formal shapes so well. It thrives in full sun to part shade with well-drained, slightly acidic to neutral loamy soil, and is frost hardy, drought tolerant once established, and excellent in containers. Two light clips per year, in spring and again in late summer, keep the ball form crisp.
Use them flanking entrances, lining formal pathways, anchoring symmetrical garden beds, defining parterre and knot gardens, and in pairs in classic urns and decorative pots at front doors. Buxus sempervirens is the original topiary plant and remains the benchmark for traditional and contemporary formal design, with a level of finesse and density that fast-growing alternatives cannot replicate.
About Buxus sempervirens English Box Topiary Balls
Our English Box topiary balls arrive pre-clipped and ready to place at the size you order. The 30cm/33cm pots have ball diameters of approximately 30 to 45 cm, the 40cm/45L pots have ball diameters of 40 to 55 cm, and the 50cm/75L pots have ball diameters of 50 to 70 cm. They are well-rooted and in proportion to the pot.
English Box is slow-growing, adding approximately 15 to 25 cm per year once established in good conditions. This slow growth rate is one of the reasons it holds sharp formal shapes so well, and why mature pre-clipped specimens command a premium over seedling-grown stock.
English Box (Buxus sempervirens) has the smallest, finest leaves and the tightest formal texture, ideal for traditional parterres and clipped balls. Japanese Box (Buxus microphylla japonica) has slightly larger leaves, grows faster, and handles heat better. Shaggy Box (Buxus bodinieri) has soft, rounded leaves, much better blight resistance, and is the best choice for humid subtropical climates where English Box can struggle.
English Box performs best in cool to temperate regions including Victoria, the ACT, the NSW Southern Highlands and Central Tablelands, Tasmania, and the elevated parts of South Australia and Western Australia. In humid coastal or hot subtropical regions, consider Buxus bodinieri Shaggy Box or Japanese Box instead for better long-term performance.
Lightly clip in spring and again in late summer or early autumn to maintain the ball shape. Avoid pruning in the heat of summer or during frost periods. Use sharp shears for the cleanest formal finish, and step back regularly to check the symmetry of the form.
Yes. English Box is the classic potted topiary plant and pre-clipped balls look particularly striking in pairs at entrances and on terraces. Use a minimum 30L pot for the 30cm/33cm size and scale up from there, with a quality potting mix and a slow-release fertiliser applied twice yearly.
English Box can be affected by box blight, particularly in humid conditions where foliage stays wet. To reduce risk, ensure good air circulation around each plant, avoid overhead watering, and prune to maintain airflow through the canopy. In high-humidity regions, Buxus bodinieri Shaggy Box is a more disease-resistant alternative.
Rhaphiolepis indica 'Oriental Pearl' is one of the best compact evergreen shrubs available for low hedges and borders. The glossy dark green foliage forms a naturally tidy rounded mound, and clusters of soft white to pale pink flowers appear from late winter into spring, followed by small dark berries.
Oriental Pearl grows to just 1-1.5 metres tall and wide, holding a neat uniform shape with minimal pruning. The compact form makes it ideal for low clipped hedges, narrow borders, mass plantings, and container planting, particularly where space is limited and a formal finish is wanted.
Oriental Pearl thrives across most Australian climates in full sun to part shade, tolerating heat, coastal exposure, salt spray, light frost, and a wide range of well-drained soils. It is both drought tolerant and salt tolerant once established, making it a reliable low-maintenance choice for coastal and low-water gardens.
About Rhaphiolepis indica 'Oriental Pearl'
Rhaphiolepis indica 'Oriental Pearl' grows to 1-1.5 metres tall and wide, forming a naturally compact dense mound.
Oriental Pearl has a moderate growth rate of 20-40cm per year once established.
Yes. Oriental Pearl is one of the best compact evergreen shrubs for low hedges, borders, and mass plantings, holding a tidy rounded form with minimal pruning.
Oriental Pearl produces clusters of soft white to pale pink flowers from late winter into spring, followed by small dark berries.
Yes. Oriental Pearl is both drought tolerant and salt tolerant once established, making it well suited to coastal gardens and low-water landscapes.
Plant 50-70cm apart for a continuous low hedge, or 80cm-1 metre for a softer informal border.
Oriental Pearl thrives across most Australian climates in full sun to part shade, tolerating heat, coastal exposure, and a wide range of well-drained soils.
Pittosporum tobira 'Miss Muffet' forms a naturally tidy dome of glossy dark green foliage without ever needing to be clipped into shape, and carries clusters of intensely fragrant creamy-white flowers through spring. It is the low structural plant that does the work of a clipped hedge with none of the trimming.
'Miss Muffet' grows to just 0.5 to 1 metre tall and around 1.5 metres wide at 20 to 40 centimetres per year, holding density right to ground level. That compact scale suits low borders along paths and driveways, underplanting beneath feature trees, and mass planting in courtyards and civic beds.
'Miss Muffet' grows in full sun to part shade, tolerates light to moderate frost once established, and copes with coastal exposure and extended dry. It performs well in pots, and maintenance is limited to removing the occasional wayward shoot.
About Pittosporum tobira 'Miss Muffet'
'Miss Muffet' grows to 0.5 to 1 metre tall and around 1.5 metres wide, forming a naturally rounded dome. It is a true dwarf and will not need cutting back to stay low.
No. It holds a tidy rounded shape naturally. An occasional trim to remove a wayward shoot is all that is required, which is its main advantage over clipped alternatives.
Clusters of creamy-white flowers appear through spring and are strongly fragrant, with a scent often compared to orange blossom.
Yes. Plant 0.8 to 1 metre apart for a continuous low evergreen border. Because it is naturally dense and low, it forms a hedge line without formal clipping.
Yes. It performs in full sun through to part shade, which makes it useful for underplanting beneath established canopy trees where light is limited.
Yes. Pittosporum tobira tolerates salt-laden wind and sandy soils well, and 'Miss Muffet' is widely used in coastal courtyard and foreshore plantings.
Yes. Its compact rounded habit makes it an excellent pot plant for entries, balconies and courtyards. Use a free-draining mix and water regularly through summer.
Acmena smithii 'Sublime' is a compact evergreen lilly pilly with vivid lime-green new growth that matures to deep glossy green. Its naturally upright columnar habit delivers dense coverage from base to tip, making it one of the cleanest, lowest-maintenance screening plants available.
Sublime grows to around 5 metres tall and just 2-3 metres wide, holding a tight column with minimal pruning. The narrow form suits tight boundary lines, pool surrounds, and structured hedges. A non-invasive root system and strong psyllid resistance make it a reliable, well-behaved alternative to more vigorous screening species.
Sublime tolerates clay soils, light frost, and moderate drought once established. It thrives across temperate to subtropical regions of NSW, QLD, VIC and parts of SA and WA, in full sun to part shade.
About Acmena smithii 'Sublime' Lilly Pilly
Sublime grows to around 5 metres tall and just 2-3 metres wide, with a naturally upright columnar form.
Sublime is fast-growing, adding 50-80cm per year once established.
Yes. Acmena smithii 'Sublime' has strong psyllid resistance, so it holds clean, unblemished foliage where older lilly pilly types can suffer pimple-like leaf damage.
Yes. The dense columnar habit makes Sublime ideal for narrow hedges, screens, and pool surrounds where clean form is needed.
No. Sublime has a non-invasive root system, making it a safer choice near paving, pools, and boundaries than more vigorous screening species.
Plant 60-80cm apart for a dense formal hedge, or 1 metre for a more relaxed screen.
Sublime thrives across temperate to subtropical regions of NSW, QLD, VIC and parts of SA and WA, tolerating clay soils, light frost, and moderate drought once established.
Trachelospermum jasminoides 'Balls' is Star Jasmine grown and clipped into a dense evergreen sphere. The small glossy leaves sit tight on a woody framework, holding a clean rounded outline year round. White pinwheel flowers open in spring and carry a strong sweet scent right across a courtyard.
Ball specimens hold at about 1 to 1.5 metres tall and wide with light clipping. Full sun to part shade suits them, in any free draining soil. Growth is slow to moderate at 30 to 50 centimetres a year. They handle coastal exposure, light frost and dry spells once the roots are down.
Repeat them along a driveway, either side of an entry, or in pots on a terrace where a formal shape is wanted straight away. They read as structure in a planting scheme without the height of a hedge, and because the form is already trained, a new garden looks settled from the day it goes in.
About Star Jasmine Balls
They are Trachelospermum jasminoides, the common Star Jasmine, grown and clipped into a dense evergreen sphere on a woody framework. Instead of climbing, the plant is trained into a self supporting rounded shape. The foliage is small, glossy and dark green, and the plant carries scented white flowers through spring.
They hold at roughly 1 to 1.5 metres tall and 1 to 1.5 metres wide. Growth is slow to moderate at 30 to 50 centimetres a year, so a light clip once or twice a year keeps the ball tight at whatever size within that range suits the setting.
Full sun to part shade both work. Full sun gives the densest foliage and the heaviest flowering, while part shade produces slightly softer, more open growth and fewer flowers. Avoid deep shade, where the ball thins out and loses its outline. Morning sun with afternoon protection suits hot inland gardens.
Yes, and pots are one of the main uses. A container 50 to 60 centimetres wide with a quality free draining mix will hold a ball for years. Water more often than you would in the ground, especially in summer, and feed in spring and again in late summer. Refresh the mix every few years.
Yes, the foliage is held year round. The glossy dark green leaves take on a bronze tinge in cold weather and green up again in spring, but the plant never goes bare. That is what makes it useful as permanent structure in a scheme, particularly in winter once perennials have died back.
Flowering runs through spring, roughly September to November, and often carries into early summer in warmer districts. The white pinwheel flowers are small but produced in quantity, and the scent is strong on still evenings. Flowering is heaviest on plants in full sun that were not clipped hard just before bud set.
Clip lightly with hedging shears once after flowering and again in late summer if needed, taking only the new growth to keep the outline crisp. Water deeply in dry weather, mulch the base, and feed in early spring. The sap is milky and can irritate skin, so wear gloves when trimming.
Westringia fruticosa, Coastal Rosemary, is an Australian native evergreen shrub from the headlands and dunes of the east coast. It builds a dense rounded bush of fine grey green leaves held in whorls, with small white to pale lilac flowers. Despite the common name it is not the culinary herb.
Mature plants sit at 1.5 to 2 metres tall and 1.5 to 2 metres wide, growing 30 to 60 centimetres a year, and they clip smaller without complaint. Full sun to part shade and sharp drainage are the requirements. Salt wind, sandy soil, drought and light to moderate frost are all handled.
It is a standard on coastal projects, road verges, council garden beds and exposed banks that need erosion cover. Plant 1 to 1.5 metres apart for an informal screen, or 80 centimetres for a clipped hedge. A single plant fills a 40 to 50 centimetre pot on a courtyard or balcony.
About Coastal Rosemary
Westringia fruticosa is an Australian native evergreen shrub from the headlands and dunes of the east coast. It forms a dense rounded bush of fine grey green leaves held in whorls, with small white to pale lilac flowers. Despite the common name it is not culinary rosemary and is not used in cooking.
Mature plants reach 1.5 to 2 metres tall and 1.5 to 2 metres wide. It clips readily to smaller dimensions and is often maintained at around a metre as a hedge or a low mound. Growth is moderate, roughly 30 to 60 centimetres a year, so it holds a trimmed shape well.
It is one of the best shrubs available for exposed coastal work. It grows naturally on sea cliffs and copes with salt laden wind, sand and reflected heat. It is used constantly on beachfront reserves, dune stabilisation projects and seaside gardens where little else holds a tidy shape.
The main flush is spring and summer, roughly September through February, with scattered flowering at other times of the year in mild districts. The flowers are small, white to pale lilac and sit among the foliage rather than above it. Clipped hedges flower less than plants left to grow informally.
Space plants 80 centimetres apart for a tight formal hedge, or 1 to 1.5 metres apart for a dense informal screen. On banks and batters used for erosion cover, 1 metre in a staggered grid gives full ground coverage within about two growing seasons.
Yes. A pot 40 to 50 centimetres wide suits a single plant for a courtyard, entry or balcony. Use a free draining mix, because the roots will not tolerate sitting wet. Container plants need watering more often than those in the ground, plus a light trim to hold their shape.
Trim lightly two or three times a year, taking the soft new growth and avoiding cuts into bare old wood, which reshoots poorly. Water through the first summer, then only in extended dry spells. On most soils it needs no feeding at all, and it resents heavy watering and poor drainage.
Westringia 'Wynyabbie Blue' is a hardy Australian native shrub grown for its lilac blue flowers, which are larger and more freely carried than those of the common white forms. Narrow grey green leaves sit in neat whorls on a dense rounded frame that holds its shape through the year.
Expect 1.5 to 2 metres in height and width at maturity, at 30 to 60 centimetres a year. Full sun brings the heaviest flowering, though part shade is accepted. Drainage matters above everything else, after which it takes salt wind, sandy or gravelly ground, drought and light to moderate frost.
Mass plantings on batters, median strips and coastal frontages are where it earns its keep, and it clips into a low hedge of about a metre without losing its flowering. Plant 1 to 1.5 metres apart for an informal screen. One plant fills a 40 to 50 centimetre pot neatly.
About Wynyabbie Blue Coastal Rosemary
Westringia 'Wynyabbie Blue' is a hardy Australian native shrub grown for its lilac blue flowers, which are larger and more freely carried than those of the common white forms. Narrow grey green leaves sit in neat whorls on a dense rounded frame. It is evergreen and holds its structure all year.
It reaches 1.5 to 2 metres tall and 1.5 to 2 metres wide at maturity, growing 30 to 60 centimetres a year. It clips comfortably to around a metre if you want a lower hedge, and it will hold that height indefinitely given two or three light trims a year.
From spring right through autumn, roughly September to May, with sporadic flowers in winter in mild districts. The lilac blue flowers open in flushes rather than all at once, so there is usually some colour on the plant. Flowering is heaviest in full sun on lean, well drained soil.
Yes. Once the roots are established it needs very little water and copes with extended dry periods, which is why it is used on unirrigated median strips and road verges. Drainage matters more than watering, since the plant will die in soggy ground long before it dies of thirst.
It is. Salt laden wind, sandy soils and reflected heat are all handled, and it is planted routinely on foreshore reserves and beachside gardens. In very exposed frontal positions the plant stays lower and denser than it would inland, which generally suits the situation anyway.
Use 80 centimetres between plants for a clipped formal hedge, or 1 to 1.5 metres for a dense informal screen. For mass planting on banks and median strips, 1 metre in a staggered pattern gives full coverage within about two growing seasons and shades out most weeds.
Trim lightly after each flowering flush, taking soft growth only. Cutting back into bare old wood leaves gaps that will not fill in, so stay on top of it rather than letting it get away. Water through the first summer, then rarely. Avoid rich soils and heavy fertiliser.
Dracaena draco builds a thick branching trunk topped with dense rosettes of grey-green sword-like leaves, giving one of the strongest architectural silhouettes available in a plant. The Dragon Tree reads as sculpture, which is why it is used so often in contemporary and Mediterranean garden design.
Dracaena draco grows very slowly at 10 to 30 centimetres per year, eventually reaching 5 to 10 metres tall and 6 to 10 metres wide over many decades. That slow rate is a feature rather than a limitation, because it means a specimen holds its shape and scale in a designed space for years without correction.
The Dragon Tree needs full sun and sharp drainage, and is frost sensitive, so it suits frost-free coastal and warm inland positions. Once established it is highly drought tolerant and needs almost no water, which makes it a natural fit for water-wise and low-maintenance plantings.
About Dracaena draco
Very slowly, at 10 to 30 centimetres per year. A Dragon Tree takes decades to reach full size, which is why advanced specimens are valued and priced accordingly.
Over many decades it reaches 5 to 10 metres tall with a broad umbrella-shaped crown 6 to 10 metres across. In a garden setting it stays far smaller for a very long time.
Yes. Its slow growth and sharp drainage requirements make it well suited to large pots, where it works as a long-term architectural feature for entries, courtyards and terraces.
No. Dracaena draco is frost sensitive and can be damaged by frost, particularly when young. Choose a frost-free or protected position, or grow it in a pot that can be sheltered.
Very little once established. It is highly drought tolerant and far more likely to suffer from overwatering than from drought. Ensure drainage is sharp and let it dry out between waterings.
Yes, though infrequently and only on mature specimens. Clusters of small white flowers appear in summer, followed by orange berries.
Give it full sun, sharp drainage and a position where the silhouette can be seen against a wall or sky. It is most effective as a single specimen rather than in groups.
Dracaena draco, the Dragon Tree, is a slow-growing evergreen from the Canary Islands with a stout trunk and rosettes of stiff, grey-green, sword-shaped leaves. Each time it flowers the crown forks, so across decades the tree builds the tiered, umbrella-like silhouette it is known for. Cut bark bleeds a red resin, the original dragon's blood.
It takes full sun, poor sandy or gravelly soil and salt wind without complaint, and is very drought tolerant once established. Frost is the limit, so keep it to frost-free coastal and warm inland areas around Perth, Adelaide, Sydney and Brisbane. Growth is under 10 centimetres a year, so the size you plant is close to the size you keep.
It suits courtyards, rockeries, dry gardens, roof terraces and Mediterranean-style schemes, and holds its own as a single specimen against modern architecture. Civic spaces and resorts use it where a sculptural focal point has to survive heat and neglect. An advanced ex-ground trunk gives immediate presence, which counts for a lot with a species this slow.
About Dragon Tree
Dracaena draco is an evergreen tree native to the Canary Islands, Madeira and Cape Verde, related to the common indoor dracaenas but far larger and much tougher. It grows a thick tapering trunk topped with dense rosettes of rigid grey-green leaves, branching into a broad tiered canopy with age. The red sap gave rise to the name dragon's blood.
Mature trees reach 6 to 10 metres tall and 4 to 8 metres wide, but only after many decades in the ground. Within an average garden lifetime you are dealing with something considerably smaller. Trunk sizes from 850 millimetres through to 2 metres, plus multi-trunk forms, let you set the scale you want from the outset.
Very slowly, under 10 centimetres a year, and slower again in cooler climates or poor light. The trunk thickens before it lengthens, and branching only begins after the first flowering, which can take a decade or more. That is why advanced ex-ground specimens are the usual starting point.
No. Dracaena draco does not tolerate frost and should be kept out of frost-prone areas. It is at its best in frost-free coastal and warm temperate gardens. In marginal locations, plant against a north-facing wall with overhead cover, or grow it in a large pot that can be moved under shelter for the winter.
Yes, it is one of the better choices for exposed coastal sites. It tolerates salt-laden wind and sandy, low-fertility soil, and the stiff leaves do not tear or brown off the way broad foliage does. Give it a raised or naturally free-draining position so winter rain moves away from the base rather than sitting there.
Yes, and it is a good container plant precisely because it grows so slowly. Use a wide, heavy pot with a cactus and succulent mix, since the crown is top heavy and the roots resent staying wet. Water sparingly, let the mix dry out between waterings, and repot only every four or five years.
Almost nothing is required. Pull off the skirt of dead leaves once or twice a year, water deeply but infrequently through the warm months, and stop over winter. Feed lightly in spring with a slow-release fertiliser. Avoid heavy pruning, since the branch structure is the whole point of the tree and large cuts do not regrow neatly.
Olea europaea, the common olive, is a slow-growing evergreen with a dense rounded crown and leathery silver-green leaves. These are mature field-grown specimens carrying the thick, characterful trunks that only come with age. Small white flowers appear in spring, followed by fruit that ripens from autumn into winter.
Full sun and well-drained, neutral to alkaline soil suit it best. Annual growth is slow at 20 to 40 centimetres, and mature size sits at 4 to 10 metres tall and 4 to 10 metres wide. Frost tolerant once established, it handles light to moderate frost and is very drought hardy through Mediterranean and temperate Australia.
Trees of this size do the work of a landscape immediately, anchoring courtyards, entries, resort gardens and civic plantings. Space feature trees 3 to 4 metres apart, or 3 metres for an avenue. Where a garden needs weight and age from the first day, a mature olive is the shortest way there.
About Olive Tree (Ex Ground)
Ex ground means the tree has been grown in open ground rather than a container, then lifted with its root ball for transplanting. Field growing produces heavier trunks and better proportioned canopies than pot culture, which is why mature specimen olives are grown this way. Crated and cloud-pruned forms are offered alongside the standard grades.
Mature size is 4 to 10 metres tall and 4 to 10 metres wide, depending on age, soil and pruning. Ex ground specimens are already well advanced, typically standing 3.2 to 5.5 metres, so most of the height is there from the outset. Ongoing pruning can hold them at whatever size the site allows.
Olives are slow growers, putting on roughly 20 to 40 centimetres a year once settled, and less in dry or poor conditions. That slow rate is why mature trunks command attention and why an advanced specimen is the usual way to get an established look. It also means a planted olive stays in scale for decades.
Yes. Olea europaea sets small white flowers in spring and fruit that ripens through autumn and winter. Trees generally begin bearing three to five years after planting, though some take ten years or more before cropping properly. Fruit drop can stain paving, so set trees back from light-coloured hard surfaces if that matters.
Established olives handle light to moderate frost without damage and are grown through the cooler inland districts of Victoria, South Australia and New South Wales. Hard, repeated frost can burn young growth, and newly planted trees are the most exposed. Warm dry summers and cool winters are the conditions this species evolved for.
Large olives can be grown in containers, though a tree of this size needs a substantial pot, at least 800 millimetres across and equally deep, with free-draining mix and reliable irrigation. Growth slows further and the canopy stays smaller. Root prune and refresh the mix every three to four years to keep the tree healthy.
Water deeply and infrequently through the first two years while roots move into the surrounding soil, then only in long dry spells. Prune in late winter to keep the centre open and the shape balanced, and remove suckers from the base. Feed annually in spring. Avoid constant watering and poorly drained ground.
Cycas revoluta, the Sago Palm, is a slow growing evergreen cycad rather than a true palm. Stiff, glossy, deep green fronds radiate from a single crown in near perfect symmetry, and a thick textured trunk builds beneath them over many years. New fronds unfurl a soft lime green before hardening off.
It grows in full sun to part shade in any soil with reasonable drainage, and tolerates drought, salt wind and light to moderate frost once established. Tropical, subtropical, temperate and coastal gardens all suit it. Growth is very slow, usually one flush of fronds a year, with the trunk thickening only a few centimetres annually.
It is used as a feature in pots at entries, repeated along a path or driveway for symmetry, and in formal, tropical and resort style gardens where texture carries the design. Large specimens anchor courtyards and pool surrounds. Because it grows so slowly, an advanced plant holds its shape and scale for years.
About Sago Palm
It is a cycad, one of an ancient group of cone bearing plants that predate flowering plants entirely. It forms a stout trunk topped by a symmetrical rosette of stiff, glossy, feather like fronds. Growth is very slow and highly regular, which is why it is valued as an architectural feature plant.
No. Despite the common name it is not a palm and is not closely related to one. Cycads sit nearer to conifers, and they reproduce with cones rather than flowers, so no flowering period applies. Mature plants produce a cone at the centre of the crown, males and females on separate plants.
It reaches 1 to 2 metres tall and 1 to 2 metres wide, taking decades to get there. Most of the height is trunk that accumulates very gradually beneath the crown, while the frond span sets the width. Larger container sizes are the practical way to get scale into a garden.
Very slowly. It typically produces a single flush of new fronds each year, sometimes skipping a year in cooler conditions, and the trunk thickens only a few centimetres annually. Warmth, feeding and steady water encourage a stronger flush. The slow rate is an advantage where a fixed, predictable form is needed.
Both work. Full sun produces a compact crown with short, stiff, deep green fronds, while part shade produces longer, softer and slightly more open fronds. Plants moved suddenly from shade into full sun can yellow, so shift them gradually. In hot inland gardens some afternoon shade keeps the foliage looking better.
No. Every part of this plant is poisonous, and the seeds are the most dangerous of all. Dogs that chew the fronds or seeds can suffer liver failure, and the plant is a genuine risk to small children. Plant it away from play areas and dog runs, and clear any fallen seed.
Water regularly through the warm months and much less in winter, keeping the crown itself dry. Feed in spring with a palm or cycad fertiliser containing magnesium and trace elements, since yellowing fronds usually mean a nutrient shortage. Cut off old lower fronds at the trunk once they brown. Watch for scale.
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Beaucarnea recurvata, known everywhere as the Ponytail Palm, is not a palm at all but a succulent-stemmed member of the Asparagaceae family. A swollen grey-barked base tapers into a slim trunk topped with long, narrow leaves that arch and fall in a loose fountain. The form is sculptural and unmistakable.
It wants full sun to part shade and gritty, free-draining soil that never stays wet. Warm temperate, subtropical and dry inland gardens suit it best. It is frost sensitive, so give it a sheltered position in cold districts. Growth is slow, about 5 to 10 centimetres a year, and water needs are minimal once settled.
It works as a courtyard specimen, a potted feature beside a doorway, or repeated through a dry garden for rhythm. Interior atriums and well-lit foyers suit it too, since it tolerates low water and general neglect. For a designer it delivers strong form in a small footprint with very little ongoing input.
About Ponytail Palm
Beaucarnea recurvata is a slow-growing succulent species from Mexico, sold as the Ponytail Palm. Despite the name it is not a palm; it sits in the Asparagaceae family. Water is stored in a swollen woody base called a caudex, above which a slim trunk carries a cascading head of long narrow leaves.
In an Australian garden expect around 2 to 4 metres tall with a canopy spread of about 2 metres, reached over many years. Container-grown plants stay considerably smaller, usually 1 to 1.5 metres, because the root run is limited. Allow 3 to 4 metres between specimens if you want each caudex and head to develop fully.
Slowly. Around 5 to 10 centimetres a year in good conditions, and less in a pot or in cooler districts. That pace is part of the appeal, since a planted specimen holds its proportions for years without outgrowing its position. Advanced stock is the practical way to get immediate size from this species.
Treat it as frost sensitive. Light frost scorches the leaf tips and a hard frost can rot the growing point. Plant it in a warm, sheltered position with good drainage, ideally near a sunny north-facing wall, or grow it in a pot that can be moved under cover through winter in cold districts.
Yes, it is one of the better container subjects. Use a wide, heavy pot with a gritty free-draining mix and let it dry out between waterings. Indoors it needs the brightest position available, ideally beside a large window, and far less water than most houseplants. Overwatering is the usual cause of failure.
Beaucarnea recurvata is not known to be toxic to cats, dogs or people, and it carries no spines or thorns. The leaf tips are fine and can be sharp enough to catch an eye at head height, so keep taller specimens back from paths where small children play. Otherwise it is an easy plant to live with.
Water deeply but infrequently, letting the soil dry well between times, and cut watering right back over winter. Feed once in spring with a slow-release fertiliser. Remove spent lower leaves by hand rather than cutting the trunk. Never prune the growing tip, and make sure the caudex sits above soil level so it cannot rot.
