Most loved for its dramatic sculptural form, thick branching trunk, and rosettes of grey-green sword-like leaves that create a bold architectural statement.
Approximate only. Minimum height important? Confirm with us.
Height guide & disclaimer
Height guide disclaimer: Height ranges are approximate only. As living products, plant heights naturally vary between individual plants, batches, and seasons. No guarantee is given that supplied plants will fall within the stated range. If minimum heights are required, you must confirm current batch heights with Evergreen Trees Direct prior to purchase. Variation in height is normal and is not grounds for return, refund, replacement, or compensation.
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Dracaena draco builds a thick branching trunk topped with dense rosettes of grey-green sword-like leaves, giving one of the strongest architectural silhouettes available in a plant. The Dragon Tree reads as sculpture, which is why it is used so often in contemporary and Mediterranean garden design.
Dracaena draco grows very slowly at 10 to 30 centimetres per year, eventually reaching 5 to 10 metres tall and 6 to 10 metres wide over many decades. That slow rate is a feature rather than a limitation, because it means a specimen holds its shape and scale in a designed space for years without correction.
The Dragon Tree needs full sun and sharp drainage, and is frost sensitive, so it suits frost-free coastal and warm inland positions. Once established it is highly drought tolerant and needs almost no water, which makes it a natural fit for water-wise and low-maintenance plantings.
About Dracaena draco
Very slowly, at 10 to 30 centimetres per year. A Dragon Tree takes decades to reach full size, which is why advanced specimens are valued and priced accordingly.
Over many decades it reaches 5 to 10 metres tall with a broad umbrella-shaped crown 6 to 10 metres across. In a garden setting it stays far smaller for a very long time.
Yes. Its slow growth and sharp drainage requirements make it well suited to large pots, where it works as a long-term architectural feature for entries, courtyards and terraces.
No. Dracaena draco is frost sensitive and can be damaged by frost, particularly when young. Choose a frost-free or protected position, or grow it in a pot that can be sheltered.
Very little once established. It is highly drought tolerant and far more likely to suffer from overwatering than from drought. Ensure drainage is sharp and let it dry out between waterings.
Yes, though infrequently and only on mature specimens. Clusters of small white flowers appear in summer, followed by orange berries.
Give it full sun, sharp drainage and a position where the silhouette can be seen against a wall or sky. It is most effective as a single specimen rather than in groups.
| Pot / bag size | Width | Depth |
|---|---|---|
| 30cm Pot | 33cm | 30cm |
| 40cm/45L Pot | 44cm | 41.5cm |
| 50cm Pot / 70L Pot | 55cm | 41.8cm |
| 100L Bag | 50.6cm | 52.8cm |
| 150L Bag | 66cm | 55cm |
| 200L Bag | 71.5cm | 60.5cm |
| 300L Bag | 88cm | 63.8cm |
| 400L Bag | 99cm | 66cm |
| 500L Bag | 122cm | 66cm |
| 750L Bag | 134cm | 69cm |
| 1000L Bag | 146.3cm | 71.5cm |
| 2000L Bag | 176cm | 82.5cm |
General planting reference from our existing size guide. Actual containers can vary by supplier and batch; confirm exact dimensions if required.
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Dracaena draco builds a thick branching trunk topped with dense rosettes of grey-green sword-like leaves, giving one of the strongest architectural silhouettes available in a plant. The Dragon Tree reads as sculpture, which is why it is used so often in contemporary and Mediterranean garden design.
Dracaena draco grows very slowly at 10 to 30 centimetres per year, eventually reaching 5 to 10 metres tall and 6 to 10 metres wide over many decades. That slow rate is a feature rather than a limitation, because it means a specimen holds its shape and scale in a designed space for years without correction.
The Dragon Tree needs full sun and sharp drainage, and is frost sensitive, so it suits frost-free coastal and warm inland positions. Once established it is highly drought tolerant and needs almost no water, which makes it a natural fit for water-wise and low-maintenance plantings.
About Dracaena draco
Very slowly, at 10 to 30 centimetres per year. A Dragon Tree takes decades to reach full size, which is why advanced specimens are valued and priced accordingly.
Over many decades it reaches 5 to 10 metres tall with a broad umbrella-shaped crown 6 to 10 metres across. In a garden setting it stays far smaller for a very long time.
Yes. Its slow growth and sharp drainage requirements make it well suited to large pots, where it works as a long-term architectural feature for entries, courtyards and terraces.
No. Dracaena draco is frost sensitive and can be damaged by frost, particularly when young. Choose a frost-free or protected position, or grow it in a pot that can be sheltered.
Very little once established. It is highly drought tolerant and far more likely to suffer from overwatering than from drought. Ensure drainage is sharp and let it dry out between waterings.
Yes, though infrequently and only on mature specimens. Clusters of small white flowers appear in summer, followed by orange berries.
Give it full sun, sharp drainage and a position where the silhouette can be seen against a wall or sky. It is most effective as a single specimen rather than in groups.
Evergreen (foliage year round)
Dracaena draco (Dragon Tree) is expected to grow 10cm to 30cm per year (approx.).
Dracaena draco (Dragon Tree) works in an:
Dracaena draco (Dragon Tree) is an Evergreen (foliage year round) Tree
Mature Height: 5m to 10m (approx.) (can reach 10m+, very slow-growing)
Mature Width: 6m to 10m
Dracaena draco (Dragon Tree) is expected to grow 10cm to 30cm per year (approx.).
Dracaena draco (Dragon Tree) is expected to grow 10cm to 30cm per year (approx.).
They are considered to have a:
Is Dracaena draco (Dragon Tree) frost tolerant?
Dracaena draco (Dragon Tree) is Frost Sensitive – May suffer damage from frost, best in frost-free or protected spots.
Dracaena draco produces tall, upright panicles of small, creamy-white to greenish flowers in mid- to late summer. While not highly ornamental, the fragrant blooms rise above the branched canopy and are followed by bright orange-red berries that add a subtle seasonal highlight.
Does Dracaena draco (Dragon Tree) flower?
Flowering Period:
Flower Type:
Flower Colour:
White
No
Dracaena draco (Dragon Tree) is Native to The Canary Islands, Madeira, and Cape Verde, where it grows naturally in rocky, arid landscapes.
Its nectar-bearing flowers attract bees and beneficial insects, while the colourful berries provide food for fruit-eating birds. The branching canopy also offers sheltered perching spots and creates warm micro-habitats for reptiles and ground-dwelling wildlife in arid-style gardens.
Dracaena draco (Dragon Tree) will thrive best in:
Dracaena draco performs best in well-drained sandy or loam soils and tolerates slightly acidic to slightly alkaline conditions. It is extremely sensitive to poor drainage and may fail in heavy clay or waterlogged areas unless significantly improved with organic matter and coarse material. Keep soil evenly moist during establishment, then move to deep, occasional watering as it matures to support its slow, steady growth and exceptional drought resilience.
Is Dracaena draco (Dragon Tree) Drought tolerant?
As a young plant it requires occasional watering, but once established Dracaena draco develops exceptional drought tolerance. It thrives in hot, dry, windy and coastal environments, maintaining its thick trunk and architectural branching with minimal supplementary watering.
Approx. 0.5m – 0.8m
Approx. 0.8m – 1.0m
Enquire for current heights
Enquire for current heights
Heights are approximate and vary between individual trees.
We take pride in supplying A+ grade advanced trees. When stock at our farm is not yet ready, we work with our trusted trade suppliers to source the best available trees for your garden.
Enriched Planting Mix is a certified organic blend of Pure Magic Compost, composted animal manure, gypsum, composted coarse bark and a wetting agent, bagged in 30L. It is built to be dug through existing garden soil at planting time rather than used on its own, and the gypsum is what sets it apart from a plain compost.
Gypsum helps break up heavy clay so water and roots can move through it, while the compost and manure return organic matter and nutrient to tired ground. The coarse bark holds structure and keeps air around the root zone, and the wetting agent keeps moisture in the soil longer after rain or watering.
Use it when planting trees, shrubs, roses, fruit trees and exotic garden plants, particularly into clay. Dig a hole twice the width of the pot and 7 centimetres deeper, then mix roughly one third planting mix through the excavated soil. Spread 7 centimetres of that improved soil in the base before setting the plant in.
About Enriched Planting Mix
It is a blend of Pure Magic Compost, composted animal manure, gypsum, composted coarse bark and a wetting agent. Each part has a job. The compost and manure supply organic matter and nutrient, the gypsum works on clay structure, the bark keeps air around the roots and the wetting agent holds moisture in the soil.
It suits exotic garden plants, including roses, ornamental and deciduous trees, fruit trees, shrubs and perennials, and it earns its keep most on heavy clay sites. It is a planting mix rather than a potting mix, so its job is improving soil at planting time. Phosphorus sensitive natives are the one clear exception.
No, not for the phosphorus sensitive ones. The composted animal manure in this blend lifts phosphorus well above what Proteaceae such as Banksia, Grevillea, Hakea and Protea will tolerate, and the result can be leaf burn, dieback and plant death. Use the Native Potting Mix for those species, or plant them into unimproved local soil.
Yes. It is a certified organic product with no chemical additives, which is why the manure and compost in it are fully composted rather than raw. That makes it sound around fruit trees and vegetable beds, and it means you are adding genuine organic matter to your soil rather than a synthetic conditioner.
Work on roughly one third planting mix to two thirds of the soil you dug out of the hole. For a shrub out of a 200 millimetre pot that is only a few litres. An advanced tree going into a large hole will take considerably more. Judge the quantity by the volume of the hole rather than the size of the plant.
It is not a potting mix and should not be used on its own in a container. The blend is designed to be diluted through garden soil, and used straight in a pot it holds too much water and settles badly. For containers, reach for a premium potting mix, or the native mix if you are potting natives.
Yes. Water the plant well several hours before you plant it, then water thoroughly again once the hole is backfilled and the soil firmed down. That first deep watering settles the improved soil around the root ball and drives out air pockets. Keep the water up over the first few months while the roots establish.
Enriched Planting Mix is a certified organic blend of Pure Magic Compost, composted animal manure, gypsum, composted coarse bark and a wetting agent, bagged in 30L. It is built to be dug through existing garden soil at planting time rather than used on its own, and the gypsum is what sets it apart from a plain compost.
Gypsum helps break up heavy clay so water and roots can move through it, while the compost and manure return organic matter and nutrient to tired ground. The coarse bark holds structure and keeps air around the root zone, and the wetting agent keeps moisture in the soil longer after rain or watering.
Use it when planting trees, shrubs, roses, fruit trees and exotic garden plants, particularly into clay. Dig a hole twice the width of the pot and 7 centimetres deeper, then mix roughly one third planting mix through the excavated soil. Spread 7 centimetres of that improved soil in the base before setting the plant in.
About Enriched Planting Mix
It is a blend of Pure Magic Compost, composted animal manure, gypsum, composted coarse bark and a wetting agent. Each part has a job. The compost and manure supply organic matter and nutrient, the gypsum works on clay structure, the bark keeps air around the roots and the wetting agent holds moisture in the soil.
It suits exotic garden plants, including roses, ornamental and deciduous trees, fruit trees, shrubs and perennials, and it earns its keep most on heavy clay sites. It is a planting mix rather than a potting mix, so its job is improving soil at planting time. Phosphorus sensitive natives are the one clear exception.
No, not for the phosphorus sensitive ones. The composted animal manure in this blend lifts phosphorus well above what Proteaceae such as Banksia, Grevillea, Hakea and Protea will tolerate, and the result can be leaf burn, dieback and plant death. Use the Native Potting Mix for those species, or plant them into unimproved local soil.
Yes. It is a certified organic product with no chemical additives, which is why the manure and compost in it are fully composted rather than raw. That makes it sound around fruit trees and vegetable beds, and it means you are adding genuine organic matter to your soil rather than a synthetic conditioner.
Work on roughly one third planting mix to two thirds of the soil you dug out of the hole. For a shrub out of a 200 millimetre pot that is only a few litres. An advanced tree going into a large hole will take considerably more. Judge the quantity by the volume of the hole rather than the size of the plant.
It is not a potting mix and should not be used on its own in a container. The blend is designed to be diluted through garden soil, and used straight in a pot it holds too much water and settles badly. For containers, reach for a premium potting mix, or the native mix if you are potting natives.
Yes. Water the plant well several hours before you plant it, then water thoroughly again once the hole is backfilled and the soil firmed down. That first deep watering settles the improved soil around the root ball and drives out air pockets. Keep the water up over the first few months while the roots establish.
Acmena smithii 'Minor', also listed as Syzygium smithii 'Minor', is a compact evergreen shrub with small glossy leaves and dense branching to ground level. New growth opens bronze red and matures to deep green. Small white flowers appear sporadically through the warmer months, followed by white to pale mauve berries.
It suits full sun or part shade and accepts most soils, from sandy loam to improved clay, as long as drainage is adequate. Growth is 40 to 70 centimetres a year, moderate to fast. It handles light to moderate frost once established, becomes drought tolerant with age and resists psyllid attack.
The small leaf and modest size make it a good low hedge, at 80 centimetres apart for a clipped face or 1 to 1.5 metres for a looser screen. It works in narrow beds, along fence lines and in large pots. Councils use it where a native screen must stay under 4 metres.
About Minor Lilly Pilly
Minor is a compact form of the Australian native lilly pilly, also listed as Syzygium smithii Minor. It has small glossy leaves, dense branching to ground level and bronze red new growth that matures to deep green. Small white flowers appear sporadically in the warmer months, followed by white to pale mauve berries.
Left unclipped it reaches 3 to 4 metres in height and 2 to 2.5 metres across. Trimmed, it is easily maintained as a hedge between 1 and 2.5 metres. The small leaf size means it takes a clipped face neatly, which larger leaved lilly pillies struggle to do without looking chopped.
Plant 80 centimetres apart for a tight formal hedge, or 1 to 1.5 metres apart for a dense informal screen. In an avenue or as spaced specimens, allow 3 metres. Closer spacing closes the gaps within a season or two, but the row needs consistent watering and feeding to keep every plant even.
It handles light to moderate frost once established, which covers most temperate districts. Young plants are more vulnerable, so protect them through the first winter in frost prone areas and avoid planting into open hollows where cold air settles. Frost burnt tips can be trimmed off in spring and regrow quickly.
Yes, it is one of the more reliable native shrubs for large containers and works either as a clipped ball or as a screening plant on a balcony or terrace. Use a pot at least 500 millimetres wide with a premium potting mix, water regularly and feed each spring. Refresh the mix every few years.
Yes. The white flowers bring in native bees and other insects, and the berries that follow are taken by small birds. The dense low branching also provides shelter and nesting cover, which is why it is specified in council and rural biodiversity plantings as well as in straight screening work.
Trim lightly two or three times a year through the warmer months to keep the face dense and to encourage coloured new growth. Feed in spring with a low phosphorus native fertiliser. Water regularly through the first summer and mulch well. Avoid cutting hard into old bare wood, which is slow to reshoot.
Elaeagnus x ebbingei, the Silverberry or Oleaster, is a hardy fast-growing evergreen shrub prized for its shimmering silver-green foliage and intensely fragrant, if inconspicuous, autumn flowers. It is one of the most versatile and resilient hedging plants available, and it clips well enough to hold a formal topiary ball.
This listing covers both forms. The hedge sizes are grown as bushy plants for screening, windbreaks and clipped hedges. The 70L and 100L topiary balls are the same plant, pre-clipped into a formal rounded shape and ready to place.
Silverberry grows to 3 to 4 metres tall and 2 to 3 metres wide if left unclipped, forming a dense bushy canopy. The leathery silver-green leaves catch the light with a soft shimmer, particularly in breeze. As a hedge it is most commonly maintained between 1.5 and 3 metres.
It is exceptionally tough, thriving in full sun to part shade and tolerating salt spray, pollution, drought once established, and a wide range of soils. This makes it ideal for coastal gardens, exposed sites and professional landscaping where durability and fast growth matter.
About Elaeagnus x ebbingei Silverberry
They are the same plant, grown and pruned differently. The hedge sizes are bushy plants intended for screening and clipped hedging. The 70L and 100L topiary balls have been trained and pre-clipped into a formal rounded shape, ready to place as a feature or in pairs at an entrance.
Elaeagnus x ebbingei grows to 3 to 4 metres tall and 2 to 3 metres wide if left unclipped, and is most commonly maintained as a 1.5 to 3 metre clipped hedge. Topiary balls are held at their clipped size with two light trims per year.
Elaeagnus x ebbingei is fast-growing, adding 60 cm to 1 metre per year once established. This is why it is one of the quickest ways to establish an evergreen screen.
Elaeagnus x ebbingei has distinctive silver-green foliage with a shimmering silvery underside, giving the plant a soft luminous quality, particularly in breeze and changing light.
Yes. Elaeagnus x ebbingei is an excellent fast hedging and screening plant, valued for its dense growth, silver foliage and tolerance of pruning.
Yes. Elaeagnus x ebbingei is highly drought tolerant and exceptionally salt tolerant once established, making it one of the best coastal hedging plants available.
Yes. Elaeagnus produces small, inconspicuous but intensely fragrant cream flowers in autumn, often noticed by scent before sight.
Plant 60 to 80 cm apart for a dense formal hedge, or 1 metre for a more relaxed screen. Topiary balls are usually placed as single features or in pairs rather than in a run.
Cupressus glabra 'Blue Ice', the Blue Ice Arizona Cypress, is a striking evergreen conifer valued for its intense silvery-blue foliage and narrow upright form. The fine scale-like leaves are held densely along upright branches, giving a bold architectural appearance.
Blue Ice grows to 10-15 metres tall and 3-4 metres wide, forming a conical upright crown. The vivid blue colour provides outstanding contrast in formal and contemporary designs, and the narrow form suits avenue planting, shelterbelts, and feature positions in large gardens.
Blue Ice has a moderate to fast growth rate and tolerates a wide range of well-drained soils. It is drought tolerant once established, frost hardy, and thrives in full sun. It is low maintenance and long-lived, needing only occasional pruning to maintain symmetry.
About Cupressus glabra 'Blue Ice'
Cupressus glabra 'Blue Ice' grows to 10-15 metres tall and 3-4 metres wide with a conical upright crown.
Blue Ice has a moderate to fast growth rate, adding 40-60cm per year once established.
Blue Ice has intense silvery-blue foliage, one of the bluest of all conifers, providing striking contrast in the garden.
Yes. The narrow upright form makes Blue Ice well suited to screening, shelterbelts, and avenue planting.
Yes. Blue Ice is drought tolerant once established and frost hardy, performing well in full sun with well-drained soil.
Plant 1.5-2 metres apart for a screening row, or 3-4 metres for individual feature spacing.
Blue Ice thrives across most Australian climates in full sun with well-drained soil, tolerating heat, frost, and drought once established.
Laurus nobilis 'Baby Bay' is a dwarf form of the Mediterranean Bay Tree, an evergreen shrub with dense, glossy, aromatic leaves and a naturally compact habit. Small creamy yellow flowers appear in spring. The leaves are the same ones used in cooking, and can be picked fresh or dried as needed.
It grows slowly at 10 to 20 centimetres a year to 1 to 2 metres tall and about 1 metre wide. Full sun to part shade suits it, in soil that drains freely. Once established it handles coastal exposure, light frost and dry spells, and performs across temperate, Mediterranean and subtropical climates.
Use it as a low formal hedge at 80 centimetres apart, an informal screen at 1 to 1.5 metres, a clipped ball in a pot by the back door, or a border plant in a kitchen garden. Slow growth means the shape you clip in spring is still the shape months later.
About Baby Bay Tree
'Baby Bay' is a dwarf selection of the classic Bay Tree, the Mediterranean evergreen whose leaves flavour stocks and slow cooked dishes. It carries the same glossy aromatic foliage as the full sized species but stays small and dense, so it fits pots, low hedges and small gardens where a standard bay would be too large.
It reaches 1 to 2 metres tall and around 1 metre wide, which is a fraction of the height a standard Bay Tree will eventually make. Clipping holds it lower again. The dense branching means it fills out to the ground rather than becoming leggy, so it works as a low hedge without staking or support.
Growth is slow, roughly 10 to 20 centimetres a year, which is exactly why it is used for topiary and formal edging. A clipped shape holds its outline for months rather than weeks. The trade off is patience during establishment, so start with the largest plant your project allows if you need immediate presence.
Yes. The foliage is true bay laurel and can be picked fresh or dried for use in soups, casseroles, braises and marinades. Take leaves from the current season's growth for the strongest flavour. Whole leaves are removed before serving, as they stay tough and leathery no matter how long they are cooked.
For a tight formal hedge, plant at 80 centimetres apart. For a softer informal screen, 1 to 1.5 metres apart lets each plant show its natural shape while still knitting together. Given the slow growth rate, closer spacing is worth the extra plants if you want a finished looking hedge sooner.
It is well suited to containers, and pots are where most Baby Bay plants end up. Use a wide pot with quality potting mix and drainage holes that stay clear. Water when the top few centimetres dry out, feed in spring and autumn, and refresh or repot every two to three years to keep growth steady.
Water regularly while young, then only through dry spells once established. Clip in spring and again in late summer to keep a dense outline, cutting individual shoots rather than shearing across the leaves. Feed in early spring, mulch the root zone and check occasionally for scale on shaded interior stems.
Euonymus japonicus 'Green Rocket' is a compact upright evergreen shrub known for its dense vertical growth and glossy green foliage. The naturally columnar habit makes it ideal for narrow spaces, screening, hedging, and structural accents in formal and modern gardens.
Green Rocket grows to around 1.5-2 metres tall with a narrow spread, holding a tidy column with minimal pruning. The compact upright form suits low to mid-height hedges, garden bed structure, borders, and containers, particularly where a clean architectural shape is wanted in a tight footprint.
Green Rocket performs well in full sun to part shade, tolerates a wide range of soils, and is low maintenance once established. It is reliably evergreen, holding its glossy foliage year-round, and thrives across most Australian climates. Other topiary trees are worth a look, along with the White Flowering Camellia and the Syzygium australe 'Resilience' Cones.
About Euonymus japonicus 'Green Rocket'
Euonymus japonicus 'Green Rocket' grows to around 1.5-2 metres tall with a narrow upright spread.
Green Rocket has a moderate growth rate of 20-40cm per year once established.
Yes. The naturally columnar habit makes Green Rocket an excellent low to mid-height hedge or screen, holding a tidy shape with minimal pruning.
Yes. The narrow upright form makes Green Rocket ideal for tight spaces, narrow borders, and vertical accents in small gardens.
Yes. Green Rocket performs well in pots and is a popular choice for framing entrances and adding structure to courtyards and balconies.
Yes. Green Rocket is fully evergreen, holding glossy green foliage year-round.
Plant 40-60cm apart for a dense narrow hedge.
Juniperus chinensis 'Spartan', sold as Spartan Juniper, is an evergreen conifer with a naturally columnar, upright habit. The fine scale-like foliage is a deep rich green and holds that colour through every season. It forms a dense, narrow column without training, which is what makes it such a dependable vertical element.
Grow it in full sun in free-draining soil. It suits temperate, Mediterranean, cool inland and coastal gardens, and handles light to moderate frost once established. Growth runs 30 to 50 centimetres a year, and mature plants reach 4 to 6 metres tall and 1 to 2 metres wide. Drought tolerance is good after the first two summers.
Landscapers use it as a screen along boundaries, as a formal avenue, and as a pair framing a doorway or gate. The narrow footprint means it screens a fence line without stealing garden bed depth. Planted at close spacing it makes a hedge that needs almost no clipping to stay tidy.
After a clipped shape instead? This listing is the natural columnar form, for hedging, screening, avenues and feature planting. For pre-trained standards, double balls and triple balls ready to place, see Juniperus chinensis 'Spartan' - Topiary Forms.
About Spartan Juniper
Spartan Juniper is the cultivar Juniperus chinensis 'Spartan', an evergreen conifer grown for its dense columnar shape and deep green scale-like foliage. It holds a narrow upright outline on its own, so it reads as a clean vertical without shaping. It is not an Australian native, though it has been grown here for decades in gardens and commercial landscapes.
Mature height is 4 to 6 metres with a width of 1 to 2 metres. It keeps the same narrow column at every stage, so a young plant gives a fair picture of the adult shape. In a container, or anywhere the roots are restricted, it will sit at the lower end of that range.
Expect roughly 30 to 50 centimetres of height a year in good conditions, which is moderate to fast for a conifer. Growth is quickest through spring and autumn and slows in the heat of midsummer. Regular water and a free-draining soil in the first two years make the biggest difference to the rate.
Full sun gives the best result. Six hours or more of direct light a day keeps the foliage dense right to the base and holds the colour deep green. In part shade the plant survives but opens up and thins on the shaded side, which spoils the even column that makes it useful.
Plant at 1 to 1.5 metres apart for a dense informal screen, or 80 centimetres apart for a tighter formal hedge. For a feature or specimen give it 3 to 4 metres so the form develops fully, and space avenue plantings at 3 metres for an even rhythm along a drive.
Yes. It handles light to moderate frost once established, which covers most of the cooler inland and tablelands areas where it is planted. Young plants in their first winter benefit from shelter in a hard frost pocket. Frost damage, when it happens, shows as browning on the outer foliage rather than the loss of the plant.
Water deeply once or twice a week through the first two summers, then only in extended dry spells. Feed with a slow release fertiliser in early spring. Keep mulch clear of the trunk to avoid collar rot. Light trimming in spring or autumn tidies the outline, but avoid cutting into old bare wood because junipers do not reshoot from it.
Trachelospermum jasminoides 'Balls' is Star Jasmine grown and clipped into a dense evergreen sphere. The small glossy leaves sit tight on a woody framework, holding a clean rounded outline year round. White pinwheel flowers open in spring and carry a strong sweet scent right across a courtyard.
Ball specimens hold at about 1 to 1.5 metres tall and wide with light clipping. Full sun to part shade suits them, in any free draining soil. Growth is slow to moderate at 30 to 50 centimetres a year. They handle coastal exposure, light frost and dry spells once the roots are down.
Repeat them along a driveway, either side of an entry, or in pots on a terrace where a formal shape is wanted straight away. They read as structure in a planting scheme without the height of a hedge, and because the form is already trained, a new garden looks settled from the day it goes in.
About Star Jasmine Balls
They are Trachelospermum jasminoides, the common Star Jasmine, grown and clipped into a dense evergreen sphere on a woody framework. Instead of climbing, the plant is trained into a self supporting rounded shape. The foliage is small, glossy and dark green, and the plant carries scented white flowers through spring.
They hold at roughly 1 to 1.5 metres tall and 1 to 1.5 metres wide. Growth is slow to moderate at 30 to 50 centimetres a year, so a light clip once or twice a year keeps the ball tight at whatever size within that range suits the setting.
Full sun to part shade both work. Full sun gives the densest foliage and the heaviest flowering, while part shade produces slightly softer, more open growth and fewer flowers. Avoid deep shade, where the ball thins out and loses its outline. Morning sun with afternoon protection suits hot inland gardens.
Yes, and pots are one of the main uses. A container 50 to 60 centimetres wide with a quality free draining mix will hold a ball for years. Water more often than you would in the ground, especially in summer, and feed in spring and again in late summer. Refresh the mix every few years.
Yes, the foliage is held year round. The glossy dark green leaves take on a bronze tinge in cold weather and green up again in spring, but the plant never goes bare. That is what makes it useful as permanent structure in a scheme, particularly in winter once perennials have died back.
Flowering runs through spring, roughly September to November, and often carries into early summer in warmer districts. The white pinwheel flowers are small but produced in quantity, and the scent is strong on still evenings. Flowering is heaviest on plants in full sun that were not clipped hard just before bud set.
Clip lightly with hedging shears once after flowering and again in late summer if needed, taking only the new growth to keep the outline crisp. Water deeply in dry weather, mulch the base, and feed in early spring. The sap is milky and can irritate skin, so wear gloves when trimming.
Dracaena draco, the Dragon Tree, is a slow-growing evergreen from the Canary Islands with a stout trunk and rosettes of stiff, grey-green, sword-shaped leaves. Each time it flowers the crown forks, so across decades the tree builds the tiered, umbrella-like silhouette it is known for. Cut bark bleeds a red resin, the original dragon's blood.
It takes full sun, poor sandy or gravelly soil and salt wind without complaint, and is very drought tolerant once established. Frost is the limit, so keep it to frost-free coastal and warm inland areas around Perth, Adelaide, Sydney and Brisbane. Growth is under 10 centimetres a year, so the size you plant is close to the size you keep.
It suits courtyards, rockeries, dry gardens, roof terraces and Mediterranean-style schemes, and holds its own as a single specimen against modern architecture. Civic spaces and resorts use it where a sculptural focal point has to survive heat and neglect. An advanced ex-ground trunk gives immediate presence, which counts for a lot with a species this slow.
About Dragon Tree
Dracaena draco is an evergreen tree native to the Canary Islands, Madeira and Cape Verde, related to the common indoor dracaenas but far larger and much tougher. It grows a thick tapering trunk topped with dense rosettes of rigid grey-green leaves, branching into a broad tiered canopy with age. The red sap gave rise to the name dragon's blood.
Mature trees reach 6 to 10 metres tall and 4 to 8 metres wide, but only after many decades in the ground. Within an average garden lifetime you are dealing with something considerably smaller. Trunk sizes from 850 millimetres through to 2 metres, plus multi-trunk forms, let you set the scale you want from the outset.
Very slowly, under 10 centimetres a year, and slower again in cooler climates or poor light. The trunk thickens before it lengthens, and branching only begins after the first flowering, which can take a decade or more. That is why advanced ex-ground specimens are the usual starting point.
No. Dracaena draco does not tolerate frost and should be kept out of frost-prone areas. It is at its best in frost-free coastal and warm temperate gardens. In marginal locations, plant against a north-facing wall with overhead cover, or grow it in a large pot that can be moved under shelter for the winter.
Yes, it is one of the better choices for exposed coastal sites. It tolerates salt-laden wind and sandy, low-fertility soil, and the stiff leaves do not tear or brown off the way broad foliage does. Give it a raised or naturally free-draining position so winter rain moves away from the base rather than sitting there.
Yes, and it is a good container plant precisely because it grows so slowly. Use a wide, heavy pot with a cactus and succulent mix, since the crown is top heavy and the roots resent staying wet. Water sparingly, let the mix dry out between waterings, and repot only every four or five years.
Almost nothing is required. Pull off the skirt of dead leaves once or twice a year, water deeply but infrequently through the warm months, and stop over winter. Feed lightly in spring with a slow-release fertiliser. Avoid heavy pruning, since the branch structure is the whole point of the tree and large cuts do not regrow neatly.
Wodyetia bifurcata, the Foxtail Palm, is a single trunked Australian native palm from Cape York, named for the plumose fronds that radiate around the stem like a brush. The smooth grey trunk swells slightly at the base and carries a clean green crownshaft, with orange red fruit following the small cream flowers.
It grows 8 to 12 metres tall with a crown 3 to 4 metres across, adding roughly 30 to 90 centimetres a year. Full sun to part shade suits it, in free draining soil. Tropical and subtropical Australia is its range, from Darwin and Cairns through to Brisbane and the northern rivers. It is drought tolerant once established but frost sensitive.
It is planted as a driveway avenue, a pool surround, a resort or civic feature and a courtyard specimen, usually 3 to 4 metres apart, or 3 metres for a uniform avenue. The fronds shed cleanly on their own, which keeps ongoing costs down and makes it an easy palm to specify in numbers.
About Foxtail Palm
Wodyetia bifurcata is an Australian native palm, originally from a small area of Cape York in far north Queensland. It has a single smooth trunk, a green crownshaft and plumose fronds where the leaflets sit at many angles around the stem, giving the bushy foxtail look. Orange red fruit follows the small cream flowers.
It grows 8 to 12 metres tall with a canopy spread of 3 to 4 metres. Trunk diameter stays modest, so the footprint at ground level is small even on a mature palm. That combination of height and narrow base is why it works in driveways, pool surrounds and courtyards where floor space is limited.
Moderate to fast, at roughly 30 to 90 centimetres a year depending on warmth, water and feeding. Young palms in the ground in a warm coastal garden sit at the top of that range, while cooler or drier sites run slower. Advanced stock in the larger container sizes gives immediate height and shortens the wait considerably.
No. It is a tropical palm and frost will damage the fronds and can kill young plants outright. Anywhere with regular winter frost is unsuitable, including the tablelands, inland southern Australia and most of Victoria and Tasmania. In marginal areas, plant it in a warm, sheltered position with some overhead protection.
Yes. It handles salt laden wind well and is widely used in beachfront and near coastal landscaping through Queensland and northern New South Wales. Give it free draining soil, since the main risk near the coast is not salt but waterlogging in heavy ground. Water through the first two summers while the root system establishes.
For a feature planting, 3 to 4 metres apart lets each crown develop fully without crowding. For an avenue where a uniform, soft textured line is wanted, 3 metres apart is the usual spacing. Keep them at least 2 metres off buildings and paving so the fronds have room and shed fronds have somewhere to land.
Water regularly through establishment, then it copes with dry spells. Feed with a slow release palm fertiliser in spring and again in summer, since the crown yellows quickly when magnesium or potassium runs short. Fronds shed on their own, so pruning is rarely needed. Remove spent fruit stalks if seedlings in the garden beds are a nuisance.
Livistona australis carries a crown of large glossy fan-shaped fronds on a tall slender ringed trunk, giving vertical structure without taking up ground space. The Cabbage Tree Palm is the hardiest large native palm available and works in far cooler districts than most palms tolerate.
Livistona australis reaches 15 to 25 metres of trunk height over many decades with a crown spread of just 2 to 4 metres, growing at 30 to 60 centimetres per year. That narrow footprint makes it viable in courtyards, along building lines, in street plantings and in tight civic spaces.
This Australian native tolerates light to moderate frost once established, which sets it apart from most feature palms, and grows in full sun to part shade. It handles coastal exposure and, once its roots are down, extended dry.
About Livistona australis
The Cabbage Tree Palm reaches 15 to 25 metres of trunk height over many decades, with a crown spread of only 2 to 4 metres. Growth to that height is slow.
Yes, it handles light to moderate frost once established, which makes it one of the few large feature palms suited to cooler southern districts.
It grows at a moderate 30 to 60 centimetres per year. Young plants establish a crown first and only begin forming visible trunk after several years.
Yes. It is native to the east coast of Australia from Queensland through New South Wales into eastern Victoria, occurring naturally in gullies and coastal forest.
Its narrow crown suits courtyards, entries, building lines and pool surrounds where vertical structure is wanted without a spreading canopy. It also works well in groups of three or five.
It grows in full sun to part shade. Young plants appreciate some shade during establishment, after which they take full sun without difficulty.
Plant 3 to 4 metres apart for a grove or avenue effect. As a single feature allow 4 metres of clear space around the eventual crown.
Phoenix roebelenii, the Pygmy Date Palm, is a compact fine-leafed palm that has become a top choice for modern landscape designs. Its controlled size, slender upright trunk, and soft feathered fronds add texture and structure without dominating the space.
Pygmy Date Palm grows slowly to 2-3 metres tall, with a crown of fine arching fronds spreading 1.5-2 metres. It is well suited to residential, commercial, and civic projects, often used in clusters, underplanted groupings, or as a standalone feature in courtyards and poolside zones. Unlike larger palms, it works in tight sites, in containers, and indoors in bright positions.
Pygmy Date Palm prefers full sun to part shade and performs best in well-drained soil. Once established it shows good drought tolerance and moderate cold hardiness, adapting to a variety of climates. It is slow-growing and low maintenance, though it carries sharp spines at the frond bases, so position it away from high-traffic areas.
About Phoenix roebelenii Pygmy Date Palm
Phoenix roebelenii grows slowly to 2-3 metres tall, with a slender trunk and a crown of fine arching fronds spreading 1.5-2 metres.
Pygmy Date Palm is slow-growing, adding 10-20cm of height per year, which makes it easy to keep in scale in small gardens.
Yes. The compact slow-growing habit makes Pygmy Date Palm one of the most popular palms for pots, courtyards, balconies, and indoor use in bright positions.
Yes. Pygmy Date Palms are often planted in clumps of two or three at staggered heights to create a fuller tropical effect.
Yes. Pygmy Date Palm is widely used as an indoor plant in bright, well-lit positions, as well as outdoors in sheltered gardens.
Yes. Pygmy Date Palm has sharp spines at the base of the fronds near the trunk, so position it away from high-traffic areas and take care when handling.
Pygmy Date Palm thrives in warm temperate to tropical climates across NSW, QLD, and frost-free parts of VIC, SA and WA. It prefers a sheltered position and is frost sensitive.
995 in stock
Dracaena draco builds a thick branching trunk topped with dense rosettes of grey-green sword-like leaves, giving one of the strongest architectural silhouettes available in a plant. The Dragon Tree reads as sculpture, which is why it is used so often in contemporary and Mediterranean garden design.
Dracaena draco grows very slowly at 10 to 30 centimetres per year, eventually reaching 5 to 10 metres tall and 6 to 10 metres wide over many decades. That slow rate is a feature rather than a limitation, because it means a specimen holds its shape and scale in a designed space for years without correction.
The Dragon Tree needs full sun and sharp drainage, and is frost sensitive, so it suits frost-free coastal and warm inland positions. Once established it is highly drought tolerant and needs almost no water, which makes it a natural fit for water-wise and low-maintenance plantings.
About Dracaena draco
Very slowly, at 10 to 30 centimetres per year. A Dragon Tree takes decades to reach full size, which is why advanced specimens are valued and priced accordingly.
Over many decades it reaches 5 to 10 metres tall with a broad umbrella-shaped crown 6 to 10 metres across. In a garden setting it stays far smaller for a very long time.
Yes. Its slow growth and sharp drainage requirements make it well suited to large pots, where it works as a long-term architectural feature for entries, courtyards and terraces.
No. Dracaena draco is frost sensitive and can be damaged by frost, particularly when young. Choose a frost-free or protected position, or grow it in a pot that can be sheltered.
Very little once established. It is highly drought tolerant and far more likely to suffer from overwatering than from drought. Ensure drainage is sharp and let it dry out between waterings.
Yes, though infrequently and only on mature specimens. Clusters of small white flowers appear in summer, followed by orange berries.
Give it full sun, sharp drainage and a position where the silhouette can be seen against a wall or sky. It is most effective as a single specimen rather than in groups.
