Most loved for its brilliant golden foliage that holds colour from spring to autumn, broad rounded canopy, and strong impact as a statement tree in large gardens and landscapes.
Approximate only. Minimum height important? Confirm with us.
Height guide & disclaimer
Height guide disclaimer: Height ranges are approximate only. As living products, plant heights naturally vary between individual plants, batches, and seasons. No guarantee is given that supplied plants will fall within the stated range. If minimum heights are required, you must confirm current batch heights with Evergreen Trees Direct prior to purchase. Variation in height is normal and is not grounds for return, refund, replacement, or compensation.
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Ulmus glabra 'Lutescens', the Golden Elm, is a deciduous tree grown for foliage colour rather than flowers. The leaves open butter yellow in spring, hold a gold to lime tone through summer and finish yellow in autumn. The crown is broad and rounded on a short trunk, giving a solid, low domed outline.
It grows fast, roughly 60 to 90 centimetres a year, in full sun to part shade. Deep soil with steady moisture gives the best colour, and hot dry wind can scorch the foliage, so shelter it inland. Cool temperate and temperate climates suit it. Frost is no problem and established trees handle dry spells.
Mature size is 10 to 15 metres tall and 12 to 15 metres wide, so the canopy finishes broader than the tree is high. That spread makes it a lawn specimen, a park tree or shade over a long driveway. One tree can carry a whole garden, which is why so many landscapes are built around it.
About Golden Elm
Ulmus glabra 'Lutescens' is a deciduous tree grown for foliage colour rather than flowers. The leaves open butter yellow in spring, hold a gold to lime tone through summer and finish yellow in autumn. The crown is broad and rounded on a short trunk, which gives it a solid, low domed outline.
Mature size is 10 to 15 metres tall and 12 to 15 metres wide, so the canopy is broader than the tree is high. Allow at least 8 metres of clear space around it. This is a tree with real presence, and it needs the room to show the shape it is grown for.
It is fast, around 60 to 90 centimetres a year in deep soil with reliable moisture. Advanced trees establish quickly and put on canopy within a few seasons. Growth is slower in shallow or dry ground, and heat stressed trees hold less colour, so preparing the planting hole properly is worth the effort.
Full sun to part shade both work, but the golden colour is strongest in full sun. In hot inland districts some afternoon shade and shelter from dry wind prevent the foliage scorching and browning at the edges. In cool temperate gardens it takes sun all day without any trouble at all.
Yes. Golden Elm drops its leaves through autumn and stands bare over winter, then leafs out in a strong gold flush in spring. Insignificant flowers appear on the bare wood in early spring ahead of the foliage. The bare winter period lets sun through to whatever is planted or built beneath it.
The root system is wide and largely shallow, and it will lift paving and compete with nearby garden beds. Keep it at least 8 to 10 metres from house slabs, drains and driveways. It can also sucker from the roots, particularly if they are damaged, so avoid cultivating under the canopy.
Water deeply through the first two or three summers and keep a wide ring of mulch, since the surface roots dislike turf competition. Prune in late winter to build a strong framework and remove narrow forks while they are small. Watch for elm leaf beetle from late spring and treat if damage builds.
| Pot / bag size | Width | Depth |
|---|---|---|
| 30cm Pot | 33cm | 30cm |
| 40cm/45L Pot | 44cm | 41.5cm |
| 50cm Pot / 70L Pot | 55cm | 41.8cm |
| 100L Bag | 50.6cm | 52.8cm |
| 150L Bag | 66cm | 55cm |
| 200L Bag | 71.5cm | 60.5cm |
| 300L Bag | 88cm | 63.8cm |
| 400L Bag | 99cm | 66cm |
| 500L Bag | 122cm | 66cm |
| 750L Bag | 134cm | 69cm |
| 1000L Bag | 146.3cm | 71.5cm |
| 2000L Bag | 176cm | 82.5cm |
General planting reference from our existing size guide. Actual containers can vary by supplier and batch; confirm exact dimensions if required.
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Ulmus glabra 'Lutescens', the Golden Elm, is a deciduous tree grown for foliage colour rather than flowers. The leaves open butter yellow in spring, hold a gold to lime tone through summer and finish yellow in autumn. The crown is broad and rounded on a short trunk, giving a solid, low domed outline.
It grows fast, roughly 60 to 90 centimetres a year, in full sun to part shade. Deep soil with steady moisture gives the best colour, and hot dry wind can scorch the foliage, so shelter it inland. Cool temperate and temperate climates suit it. Frost is no problem and established trees handle dry spells.
Mature size is 10 to 15 metres tall and 12 to 15 metres wide, so the canopy finishes broader than the tree is high. That spread makes it a lawn specimen, a park tree or shade over a long driveway. One tree can carry a whole garden, which is why so many landscapes are built around it.
About Golden Elm
Ulmus glabra 'Lutescens' is a deciduous tree grown for foliage colour rather than flowers. The leaves open butter yellow in spring, hold a gold to lime tone through summer and finish yellow in autumn. The crown is broad and rounded on a short trunk, which gives it a solid, low domed outline.
Mature size is 10 to 15 metres tall and 12 to 15 metres wide, so the canopy is broader than the tree is high. Allow at least 8 metres of clear space around it. This is a tree with real presence, and it needs the room to show the shape it is grown for.
It is fast, around 60 to 90 centimetres a year in deep soil with reliable moisture. Advanced trees establish quickly and put on canopy within a few seasons. Growth is slower in shallow or dry ground, and heat stressed trees hold less colour, so preparing the planting hole properly is worth the effort.
Full sun to part shade both work, but the golden colour is strongest in full sun. In hot inland districts some afternoon shade and shelter from dry wind prevent the foliage scorching and browning at the edges. In cool temperate gardens it takes sun all day without any trouble at all.
Yes. Golden Elm drops its leaves through autumn and stands bare over winter, then leafs out in a strong gold flush in spring. Insignificant flowers appear on the bare wood in early spring ahead of the foliage. The bare winter period lets sun through to whatever is planted or built beneath it.
The root system is wide and largely shallow, and it will lift paving and compete with nearby garden beds. Keep it at least 8 to 10 metres from house slabs, drains and driveways. It can also sucker from the roots, particularly if they are damaged, so avoid cultivating under the canopy.
Water deeply through the first two or three summers and keep a wide ring of mulch, since the surface roots dislike turf competition. Prune in late winter to build a strong framework and remove narrow forks while they are small. Watch for elm leaf beetle from late spring and treat if damage builds.
Deciduous (Defoliates throughout colder months)
Ulmus glabra ‘Lutescens’ – Golden Elm is expected to grow 60cm to 90cm per year (fast) (approx.).
Ulmus glabra ‘Lutescens’ – Golden Elm works in an:
Ulmus glabra ‘Lutescens’ – Golden Elm is an Deciduous (Defoliates throughout colder months) Tree
Mature Height: 10m to 15m (approx.)
Mature Width: 12m to 15m
Ulmus glabra ‘Lutescens’ – Golden Elm is expected to grow 60cm to 90cm per year (fast) (approx.).
Ulmus glabra ‘Lutescens’ – Golden Elm is expected to grow 60cm to 90cm per year (fast) (approx.).
They are considered to have a:
Is Ulmus glabra ‘Lutescens’ – Golden Elm frost tolerant?
Ulmus glabra ‘Lutescens’ – Golden Elm is Frost Hardy – Survives heavy and frequent frost without damage.
Ulmus glabra ‘Lutescens’ does not produce ornamental flowers. Its small, inconspicuous blooms appear in late winter to early spring, followed by papery winged seeds. The tree is primarily admired for its striking golden foliage, elegant branching structure and strong seasonal presence rather than its flowering display.
Does Ulmus glabra ‘Lutescens’ – Golden Elm flower?
Flowering Period:
Flower Type:
Flower Colour:
Not Applicable
No
Ulmus glabra ‘Lutescens’ – Golden Elm is Native to Derived from Ulmus glabra, native to Europe and western Asia. ‘Lutescens’ is a long-cultivated ornamental form prized for its golden foliage.
Its broad, arching canopy provides excellent shelter, nesting space and protection for small birds, while the foliage supports beneficial insects that help sustain local food webs. This makes the Golden Elm a valuable species for enhancing biodiversity in larger gardens, parks and open landscapes.
Ulmus glabra ‘Lutescens’ – Golden Elm will thrive best in:
Ulmus glabra ‘Lutescens’ performs best in well-drained loam or sandy loam soils with an acidic to neutral pH. It will also tolerate lighter sandy soils if enriched with organic matter to support moisture retention and sustained leaf colour. Avoid heavy clay, compacted soils or waterlogged areas unless significantly improved, as these conditions can stunt growth and reduce canopy vigour. Keep the soil evenly moist during establishment, then gradually reduce watering as the tree matures.
Is Ulmus glabra ‘Lutescens’ – Golden Elm Drought tolerant?
As a young tree it requires regular deep watering to establish well. Once established, Ulmus glabra ‘Lutescens’ develops moderate drought tolerance, performing reliably through warm, dry periods when planted in well-drained soil. Occasional supplementary watering during extended heat helps maintain its bright foliage colour and canopy health.
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Heights are approximate and vary between individual trees.
We take pride in supplying A+ grade advanced trees. When stock at our farm is not yet ready, we work with our trusted trade suppliers to source the best available trees for your garden.
Enriched Planting Mix is a certified organic blend of Pure Magic Compost, composted animal manure, gypsum, composted coarse bark and a wetting agent, bagged in 30L. It is built to be dug through existing garden soil at planting time rather than used on its own, and the gypsum is what sets it apart from a plain compost.
Gypsum helps break up heavy clay so water and roots can move through it, while the compost and manure return organic matter and nutrient to tired ground. The coarse bark holds structure and keeps air around the root zone, and the wetting agent keeps moisture in the soil longer after rain or watering.
Use it when planting trees, shrubs, roses, fruit trees and exotic garden plants, particularly into clay. Dig a hole twice the width of the pot and 7 centimetres deeper, then mix roughly one third planting mix through the excavated soil. Spread 7 centimetres of that improved soil in the base before setting the plant in.
About Enriched Planting Mix
It is a blend of Pure Magic Compost, composted animal manure, gypsum, composted coarse bark and a wetting agent. Each part has a job. The compost and manure supply organic matter and nutrient, the gypsum works on clay structure, the bark keeps air around the roots and the wetting agent holds moisture in the soil.
It suits exotic garden plants, including roses, ornamental and deciduous trees, fruit trees, shrubs and perennials, and it earns its keep most on heavy clay sites. It is a planting mix rather than a potting mix, so its job is improving soil at planting time. Phosphorus sensitive natives are the one clear exception.
No, not for the phosphorus sensitive ones. The composted animal manure in this blend lifts phosphorus well above what Proteaceae such as Banksia, Grevillea, Hakea and Protea will tolerate, and the result can be leaf burn, dieback and plant death. Use the Native Potting Mix for those species, or plant them into unimproved local soil.
Yes. It is a certified organic product with no chemical additives, which is why the manure and compost in it are fully composted rather than raw. That makes it sound around fruit trees and vegetable beds, and it means you are adding genuine organic matter to your soil rather than a synthetic conditioner.
Work on roughly one third planting mix to two thirds of the soil you dug out of the hole. For a shrub out of a 200 millimetre pot that is only a few litres. An advanced tree going into a large hole will take considerably more. Judge the quantity by the volume of the hole rather than the size of the plant.
It is not a potting mix and should not be used on its own in a container. The blend is designed to be diluted through garden soil, and used straight in a pot it holds too much water and settles badly. For containers, reach for a premium potting mix, or the native mix if you are potting natives.
Yes. Water the plant well several hours before you plant it, then water thoroughly again once the hole is backfilled and the soil firmed down. That first deep watering settles the improved soil around the root ball and drives out air pockets. Keep the water up over the first few months while the roots establish.
Enriched Planting Mix is a certified organic blend of Pure Magic Compost, composted animal manure, gypsum, composted coarse bark and a wetting agent, bagged in 30L. It is built to be dug through existing garden soil at planting time rather than used on its own, and the gypsum is what sets it apart from a plain compost.
Gypsum helps break up heavy clay so water and roots can move through it, while the compost and manure return organic matter and nutrient to tired ground. The coarse bark holds structure and keeps air around the root zone, and the wetting agent keeps moisture in the soil longer after rain or watering.
Use it when planting trees, shrubs, roses, fruit trees and exotic garden plants, particularly into clay. Dig a hole twice the width of the pot and 7 centimetres deeper, then mix roughly one third planting mix through the excavated soil. Spread 7 centimetres of that improved soil in the base before setting the plant in.
About Enriched Planting Mix
It is a blend of Pure Magic Compost, composted animal manure, gypsum, composted coarse bark and a wetting agent. Each part has a job. The compost and manure supply organic matter and nutrient, the gypsum works on clay structure, the bark keeps air around the roots and the wetting agent holds moisture in the soil.
It suits exotic garden plants, including roses, ornamental and deciduous trees, fruit trees, shrubs and perennials, and it earns its keep most on heavy clay sites. It is a planting mix rather than a potting mix, so its job is improving soil at planting time. Phosphorus sensitive natives are the one clear exception.
No, not for the phosphorus sensitive ones. The composted animal manure in this blend lifts phosphorus well above what Proteaceae such as Banksia, Grevillea, Hakea and Protea will tolerate, and the result can be leaf burn, dieback and plant death. Use the Native Potting Mix for those species, or plant them into unimproved local soil.
Yes. It is a certified organic product with no chemical additives, which is why the manure and compost in it are fully composted rather than raw. That makes it sound around fruit trees and vegetable beds, and it means you are adding genuine organic matter to your soil rather than a synthetic conditioner.
Work on roughly one third planting mix to two thirds of the soil you dug out of the hole. For a shrub out of a 200 millimetre pot that is only a few litres. An advanced tree going into a large hole will take considerably more. Judge the quantity by the volume of the hole rather than the size of the plant.
It is not a potting mix and should not be used on its own in a container. The blend is designed to be diluted through garden soil, and used straight in a pot it holds too much water and settles badly. For containers, reach for a premium potting mix, or the native mix if you are potting natives.
Yes. Water the plant well several hours before you plant it, then water thoroughly again once the hole is backfilled and the soil firmed down. That first deep watering settles the improved soil around the root ball and drives out air pockets. Keep the water up over the first few months while the roots establish.
Ligularia reniformis carries enormous glossy kidney-shaped leaves that give a shaded garden the bold tropical texture usually only available in full sun. The Tractor Seat Plant is grown for foliage first, with tall stems of bright yellow daisy flowers through summer as a bonus.
Ligularia reniformis forms a clump 0.6 to 1 metre tall and 1 to 1.5 metres wide, spreading slowly at 10 to 20 centimetres per year. That steady habit makes it reliable as a mass underplanting beneath established trees, an edging along a shaded path, or a single specimen in a large pot.
This is a full shade plant. It wants consistent moisture and protection from hot afternoon sun, which scorches the leaves, and it is frost sensitive, so in cold districts it needs a protected position. Given shade and water it is close to maintenance free.
About Ligularia reniformis
It forms a clump 0.6 to 1 metre tall and 1 to 1.5 metres wide. The individual leaves can reach 40 centimetres across, which is where the bold texture comes from.
The common name comes from the large round kidney-shaped leaves, which resemble the seat of an old tractor. The botanical name reniformis means kidney-shaped.
Yes. It performs best in full shade and will scorch in hot afternoon sun. It is one of the most useful foliage plants available for genuinely dark positions.
Tall stems of bright yellow daisy-like flowers rise well above the foliage through summer. The foliage remains the main feature for the rest of the year.
No. It is frost sensitive and may be damaged by frost. In cold districts plant it in a protected position, or grow it in a pot that can be moved under cover.
It wants consistently moist soil and does not tolerate drying out. Mulch well and water regularly through summer, particularly in pots and under established trees where roots compete.
Plant 0.8 to 1 metre apart for a continuous shaded groundcover mass. Closer spacing fills in faster but the clumps will crowd within a few seasons.
Buxus microphylla var. japonica, sold as Japanese Box, is a dense evergreen shrub clipped here into clean topiary balls. The small, rounded, mid green leaves sit tightly along short stems, so the surface holds a crisp edge after cutting. Growth is naturally compact, which is what allows the ball shape to hold between trims.
It grows in full sun to part shade and accepts most soils that drain, from sandy loam through to improved clay. Cool temperate, temperate and subtropical districts all suit it, and established plants handle light to moderate frost. Growth runs about 15 to 25 centimetres a year, slow enough that the shape stays where you put it.
Balls are used to edge beds and paths, mark an entry, sit either side of a doorway, or repeat down a courtyard to give a planting rhythm. They also underplant feature trees neatly. Because the form arrives already grown, a bed reads finished from the day it goes in rather than years later.
About Japanese Box Topiary Balls
It is Buxus microphylla var. japonica grown on and clipped into a sphere. The plant does the same job as any box shrub, evergreen, small leaved and tolerant of cutting, but it arrives already shaped. Ball diameters run from around 30 centimetres up to large advanced specimens, and the shape is then held with two trims a year.
The ball is held at whatever diameter it is clipped to, commonly 30 to 70 centimetres, with larger specimens available in bigger containers. In the ground, overall height sits close to the ball diameter. Left entirely unclipped the species would slowly reach roughly 1.5 to 2 metres tall and wide over many years.
About 15 to 25 centimetres a year, which is slow to moderate. That pace is an advantage in topiary because the outline drifts gradually rather than running away between cuts. Two trims a year, one in early spring and one in late summer, are usually enough to keep the surface tight and the profile even.
Full sun to part shade both work. Full sun gives the densest, tightest surface, which matters when the appeal of the plant is a clean clipped edge. In hot inland gardens some afternoon shade prevents leaf scorch and bronzing. Deep shade thins the growth out and the ball loses its crisp outline.
Yes. Established plants handle light to moderate frost without damage, which covers most temperate and cool temperate gardens including Canberra, Melbourne and the southern tablelands. Newly planted stock is more exposed, so water it well going into winter and mulch the root zone. Any frost burnt tips can simply be trimmed off in spring.
Yes, they are one of the better plants for a container. A pot 40 to 50 centimetres wide suits a single ball for a courtyard, entry or balcony. Use a quality potting mix, water once the top few centimetres dry out, and feed in spring and again in summer. Repot or refresh the mix every few years.
Trim twice a year with sharp shears, cutting lightly and often rather than hard. Feed in early spring with a slow release fertiliser and keep water up through summer. Mulch to about 50 millimetres, keeping it clear of the stem. Watch for box psyllid on soft new growth and treat early if the tips start to cup.
Rhaphiolepis indica 'Oriental Pearl' is one of the best compact evergreen shrubs available for low hedges and borders. The glossy dark green foliage forms a naturally tidy rounded mound, and clusters of soft white to pale pink flowers appear from late winter into spring, followed by small dark berries.
Oriental Pearl grows to just 1-1.5 metres tall and wide, holding a neat uniform shape with minimal pruning. The compact form makes it ideal for low clipped hedges, narrow borders, mass plantings, and container planting, particularly where space is limited and a formal finish is wanted.
Oriental Pearl thrives across most Australian climates in full sun to part shade, tolerating heat, coastal exposure, salt spray, light frost, and a wide range of well-drained soils. It is both drought tolerant and salt tolerant once established, making it a reliable low-maintenance choice for coastal and low-water gardens.
About Rhaphiolepis indica 'Oriental Pearl'
Rhaphiolepis indica 'Oriental Pearl' grows to 1-1.5 metres tall and wide, forming a naturally compact dense mound.
Oriental Pearl has a moderate growth rate of 20-40cm per year once established.
Yes. Oriental Pearl is one of the best compact evergreen shrubs for low hedges, borders, and mass plantings, holding a tidy rounded form with minimal pruning.
Oriental Pearl produces clusters of soft white to pale pink flowers from late winter into spring, followed by small dark berries.
Yes. Oriental Pearl is both drought tolerant and salt tolerant once established, making it well suited to coastal gardens and low-water landscapes.
Plant 50-70cm apart for a continuous low hedge, or 80cm-1 metre for a softer informal border.
Oriental Pearl thrives across most Australian climates in full sun to part shade, tolerating heat, coastal exposure, and a wide range of well-drained soils.
Pittosporum tenuifolium 'Silver Sheen' carries small shimmering silver-green leaves on near-black stems, giving a light airy screen that moves in the wind rather than reading as a solid green wall. It is one of the most widely specified screening plants in Australian landscape design for exactly that reason.
'Silver Sheen' grows to 4 to 6 metres tall but only 1.5 to 2 metres wide at 30 to 60 centimetres per year, which makes it a genuine solution for narrow beds along fence lines and between buildings where height is needed but width is not available. Small cream flowers appear in spring and are lightly fragrant.
'Silver Sheen' grows in full sun to part shade and tolerates light to moderate frost once established, performing from subtropical Queensland through Sydney, Melbourne, Gippsland and Adelaide. It clips well, holds density under regular trimming, and is equally effective as a formal hedge or a loose screen.
About Pittosporum tenuifolium 'Silver Sheen'
'Silver Sheen' grows to 4 to 6 metres tall and only 1.5 to 2 metres wide, which makes it one of the best options for narrow screening where a tall hedge is needed in a shallow bed.
It grows at 30 to 60 centimetres per year once established, reaching a usable screening height within three to four years with regular water and feeding.
It naturally holds to 1.5 to 2 metres wide and can be trimmed to under a metre with regular clipping, which is why it is so often used in tight side-boundary positions.
Plant 1 to 1.5 metres apart for a dense informal screen, or 80 centimetres apart for a tighter formal hedge. Closer spacing fills in faster but needs more trimming.
'Silver Sheen' handles light to moderate frost once established. Young plants benefit from protection through their first winter in colder inland districts.
Yes. It performs in full sun through to part shade. In shadier positions growth is slightly more open, which suits a softer informal screen.
It performs from subtropical Queensland through Northern NSW, Sydney, the South Coast and tablelands, Melbourne and surrounds, the Western District, Gippsland and Adelaide.
Melaleuca nesophila, the Showy Honey Myrtle, is an evergreen Australian native shrub to small tree from the south coast of Western Australia. Fine grey green foliage sits on a dense rounded frame over papery bark, and mauve to pink pom pom flowers cover the outer growth through spring and summer.
Mature width is 2 to 4 metres, with height usually settling around 3 to 5 metres, and growth of 30 to 60 centimetres a year. It wants full sun and takes sand, limestone, gravel and moderately heavy soils. Salt wind, drought and light to moderate frost are all handled once the roots are down.
This is a screening and hedging plant first, used along boundaries, on coastal blocks and through council road reserves where conditions are hard and maintenance budgets are thin. Space it at 1 to 1.5 metres for an informal screen. It gives colour, density and habitat value from one low input plant.
About Showy Honey Myrtle
Melaleuca nesophila, or Showy Honey Myrtle, is an evergreen Australian native shrub to small tree from southern Western Australia. It has fine grey green foliage, a dense rounded habit and soft papery bark, and carries mauve to pink pom pom flowers through spring and summer that age to a soft grey.
It spreads 2 to 4 metres wide and generally reaches 3 to 5 metres tall in a garden, though regular trimming will hold it lower. Growth is moderate to fast at around 30 to 60 centimetres a year, so a screen planted from advanced stock closes over within three or four seasons.
For a dense informal screen, plant 1 to 1.5 metres apart. For a tighter formal hedge, bring that in to 80 centimetres. As a feature tree, allow 3 to 4 metres so the full canopy and form can develop, or 3 metres apart along an avenue for a uniform, soft textured line.
Yes, it is one of the better coastal Melaleucas. It tolerates salt laden wind, sandy and limestone soils, and exposed front line positions once established, which is why it is planted so widely along the southern coastline. In very exposed sites it will lean with the prevailing wind, and most people like the result.
The main flush runs through spring and into summer, roughly September to January. Flowers open mauve to purple pink in dense rounded heads across the outer foliage, then age to grey and stay on the plant. Bees and honeyeaters work it heavily while it is out, so expect plenty of activity.
It handles light to moderate frost once established, which covers most coastal and near coastal parts of southern Australia. Young plants are more vulnerable in their first winter, so plant in autumn or early spring and keep them out of low frost hollows. Hard, repeated inland frost will burn new growth.
Tip prune after flowering to keep it dense and stop the base going bare. It takes a hard cut back if it becomes leggy, though remove no more than about a third at a time. Water through the first summer, then it is largely self sufficient. Use a low phosphorus native fertiliser in spring on poor soils.
Osmanthus x burkwoodii, or Burkwood osmanthus, is a compact evergreen shrub with an upright bushy habit, a garden hybrid between Osmanthus delavayi and Osmanthus decorus. The small dark green leaves are leathery and glossy, and in spring the whole plant carries clusters of little white flowers with a heavy sweet scent.
It grows 2 to 3 metres tall and 1.5 to 2 metres wide at about 15 to 30 centimetres a year. Full sun to part shade suits it, in any well-drained soil. Cool temperate through to warm temperate gardens all work, frost is handled easily, and water matters mainly in the first summers.
Plant it 80 centimetres apart for a clipped formal hedge, 1 to 1.5 metres apart for a soft screen, or 3 metres apart down an avenue. Single plants hold their own near a seat or path where the spring fragrance is noticed. This is a hedge that asks for one trim a year.
About Burkwood Osmanthus
Burkwood osmanthus is a compact evergreen shrub, a garden hybrid between Osmanthus delavayi and Osmanthus decorus. It forms an upright bushy plant of small, leathery, dark green leaves, and in spring it carries dense clusters of little white tubular flowers with a strong sweet fragrance that carries across a courtyard.
It reaches 2 to 3 metres tall and 1.5 to 2 metres wide at maturity, growing about 15 to 30 centimetres a year. Clipped as a hedge it is easily held at 1.5 metres or lower. The habit is naturally neat, so it fills out from the base without the bare legs many shrubs develop.
For a tight formal hedge plant 80 centimetres apart. For a fuller informal screen allow 1 to 1.5 metres between plants and let them knit together over two to three seasons. If you are running it as an avenue of clipped shapes, 3 metres apart gives each plant room to develop evenly.
Spring, roughly September to November, with the heaviest display in the middle of that window. The flowers are small and white in tight clusters along the stems, and the fragrance is strong enough to fill an enclosed garden. Prune after flowering rather than before if you want the full display each year.
Full sun to part shade both work. Full sun gives the densest growth and the heaviest flowering, while part shade suits it in hot inland gardens where afternoon protection helps. It will grow in more shade than that, but the plant opens up and flowers less. Avoid deep shade under dense evergreens.
Yes. It handles frost comfortably once established and is a dependable choice for cool temperate districts, including the tablelands and Victorian and Tasmanian gardens. It also grows well in milder coastal and warm temperate areas. Young plants benefit from steady water through their first two summers, which matters more than winter protection.
Trim once a year straight after flowering, taking the new growth back to shape. A second light tidy in late summer keeps a formal hedge crisp. Water regularly for the first two summers, then only through long dry spells. Mulch the root zone and feed with a general fertiliser in early spring.
Trachelospermum jasminoides 'Balls' is Star Jasmine grown and clipped into a dense evergreen sphere. The small glossy leaves sit tight on a woody framework, holding a clean rounded outline year round. White pinwheel flowers open in spring and carry a strong sweet scent right across a courtyard.
Ball specimens hold at about 1 to 1.5 metres tall and wide with light clipping. Full sun to part shade suits them, in any free draining soil. Growth is slow to moderate at 30 to 50 centimetres a year. They handle coastal exposure, light frost and dry spells once the roots are down.
Repeat them along a driveway, either side of an entry, or in pots on a terrace where a formal shape is wanted straight away. They read as structure in a planting scheme without the height of a hedge, and because the form is already trained, a new garden looks settled from the day it goes in.
About Star Jasmine Balls
They are Trachelospermum jasminoides, the common Star Jasmine, grown and clipped into a dense evergreen sphere on a woody framework. Instead of climbing, the plant is trained into a self supporting rounded shape. The foliage is small, glossy and dark green, and the plant carries scented white flowers through spring.
They hold at roughly 1 to 1.5 metres tall and 1 to 1.5 metres wide. Growth is slow to moderate at 30 to 50 centimetres a year, so a light clip once or twice a year keeps the ball tight at whatever size within that range suits the setting.
Full sun to part shade both work. Full sun gives the densest foliage and the heaviest flowering, while part shade produces slightly softer, more open growth and fewer flowers. Avoid deep shade, where the ball thins out and loses its outline. Morning sun with afternoon protection suits hot inland gardens.
Yes, and pots are one of the main uses. A container 50 to 60 centimetres wide with a quality free draining mix will hold a ball for years. Water more often than you would in the ground, especially in summer, and feed in spring and again in late summer. Refresh the mix every few years.
Yes, the foliage is held year round. The glossy dark green leaves take on a bronze tinge in cold weather and green up again in spring, but the plant never goes bare. That is what makes it useful as permanent structure in a scheme, particularly in winter once perennials have died back.
Flowering runs through spring, roughly September to November, and often carries into early summer in warmer districts. The white pinwheel flowers are small but produced in quantity, and the scent is strong on still evenings. Flowering is heaviest on plants in full sun that were not clipped hard just before bud set.
Clip lightly with hedging shears once after flowering and again in late summer if needed, taking only the new growth to keep the outline crisp. Water deeply in dry weather, mulch the base, and feed in early spring. The sap is milky and can irritate skin, so wear gloves when trimming.
Platanus x acerifolia, the London Plane, is one of the world's great avenue trees, prized for its bold maple-like foliage, mottled bark, and exceptional resilience. The bark flakes away in patches to reveal cream, olive and grey tones, while the broad canopy of large lobed leaves casts dense, generous summer shade.
London Plane grows to 20-30 metres tall and 15-20 metres wide with a canopy that starts pyramidal in youth and matures into a wide rounded crown. The substantial size makes it best suited to large gardens, parks, streetscapes, and grand avenues where it has room to develop its full stature.
London Plane is famous for thriving where other trees fail. It tolerates pollution, compacted soil, heat, and heavy pruning, which is exactly why it is one of the most planted street trees in major cities worldwide. It is fully deciduous, dropping golden-brown foliage in winter to reveal the sculptural branching and mottled bark.
About Platanus x acerifolia London Plane Tree
Platanus x acerifolia grows to 20-30 metres tall and 15-20 metres wide with a broad spreading canopy.
London Plane is fast-growing, adding 1-1.5 metres per year once established.
London Plane is one of the world's most planted street trees thanks to its exceptional tolerance of pollution, compacted soil, heat, and heavy pruning. It is a defining avenue tree in many major cities.
London Plane has highly ornamental mottled bark that flakes away in patches to reveal cream, olive, and grey tones, providing strong year-round visual interest.
Yes. London Plane is fully deciduous. Large maple-like leaves turn golden-brown in autumn before dropping in winter to reveal the sculptural branching and mottled bark.
London Plane is best suited to large gardens, parks, streetscapes, and avenues due to its mature size. It is too large for most small suburban blocks.
Plant 6-10 metres apart for a full canopy avenue, depending on the desired density and the space available.
Zelkova serrata, the Japanese Zelkova, is a large deciduous shade tree with an upright trunk that divides into a broad, spreading vase of branches. The serrated green leaves turn yellow, orange and bronze in autumn, and the smooth grey bark flakes in patches to show orange underneath.
It grows 12 to 18 metres tall and 10 to 15 metres wide, and can reach 30 metres in ideal conditions, adding roughly 40 to 60 centimetres a year. Full sun and a deep soil suit it best. It is frost hardy, handles heat, wind and urban air, and is drought tolerant once established.
This is a street, park and large garden tree, planted for shade, avenue work and civic projects where an elm form is wanted without the disease risk. It needs genuine room, so set it out on its mature spread rather than its nursery size. On the right site it is a fifty year asset.
About Japanese Zelkova
Zelkova serrata is a deciduous tree from Japan, Korea and eastern China, in the elm family. It carries a short trunk and a broad vase shaped crown of fine, serrated leaves, and is widely planted as a shade and street tree. Unlike the true elms it is highly resistant to Dutch elm disease.
It reaches 12 to 18 metres tall and 10 to 15 metres wide in cultivation, and can get to 30 metres in ideal conditions with deep soil and no competition. Plan the planting position on the upper figures rather than the lower ones, because a mature specimen carries a very substantial canopy.
Deciduous. The tree carries fresh green foliage through spring and summer, colours to yellow, orange and bronze in autumn, then stands bare through winter. That bare period lets winter sun through to buildings and paths below, which is one reason it is favoured for streets, car parks and the northern side of houses.
Moderate, at around 40 to 60 centimetres a year once established. Young trees in good soil with regular water push along faster, then the rate settles as the canopy broadens. It is quicker than an oak and slower than a poplar, which is a sensible pace for a tree meant to last.
The roots are relatively well behaved for a tree of this size, but the trunk flare and surface roots will lift paving if planted too close. Allow at least 4 to 5 metres from slabs, kerbs and footings, and more where the soil is shallow. Avoid planting directly over sewer and stormwater lines.
It does well through cool and temperate Australia, including Melbourne, Adelaide, Canberra, Sydney, the tablelands and Tasmania, and it is reliable in inland towns with hot dry summers provided it is watered while young. Autumn colour is strongest where the nights turn cold. It is not suited to the wet tropics.
Water deeply and regularly for the first two or three summers, then it manages on rainfall in most districts. Mulch out to the drip line and keep the mulch off the trunk. Formative pruning in the first few years sets a single leader and good branch spacing. Established trees need very little attention.
Ulmus parvifolia 'Todd', the Chinese Elm, is one of the most adaptable and reliable shade trees available for Australian gardens. The glossy dark green foliage forms a dense rounded canopy, while the highly ornamental mottled bark flakes in patches to reveal cream, grey, orange and brown tones for genuine year-round interest.
Chinese Elm 'Todd' grows to 8-12 metres tall and 6-9 metres wide. The dense canopy, tidy form, and excellent response to pruning make it equally suited to use as a feature shade tree, a street tree, or a clipped tall hedge, performing well in both residential gardens and urban streetscapes.
Chinese Elm is highly adaptable and thrives across most Australian climates, tolerating heat, frost, drought, urban pollution, and a wide range of soils once established. It is semi-deciduous, holding much of its foliage year-round in warm climates and dropping leaves after a brief golden display in cooler regions.
About Ulmus parvifolia 'Todd' Chinese Elm
Ulmus parvifolia 'Todd' grows to 8-12 metres tall and 6-9 metres wide with a dense rounded canopy.
Chinese Elm is moderately fast-growing, adding 50-80cm per year once established.
Chinese Elm is semi-deciduous. In warmer climates it holds much of its foliage year-round, while in cooler regions it drops its leaves in winter after a brief golden autumn display.
Chinese Elm has highly ornamental mottled bark that flakes in patches to reveal cream, grey, orange and brown tones, providing year-round visual interest.
Yes. Chinese Elm responds well to pruning and can be maintained as a tall hedge or screen, as well as grown as a feature shade tree.
Chinese Elm is highly adaptable and thrives across most Australian climates, tolerating heat, frost, drought, and a wide range of soils once established.
Plant 4-6 metres apart for a shade avenue, or 1.5-2 metres for a hedge or screen.
Ulmus parvifolia, the Chinese Elm, is a semi deciduous shade tree with a vase shaped crown and gracefully arching outer branches. The small glossy serrated leaves turn yellow through bronze before falling, and the trunk sheds patches of bark to leave a mottled pattern of grey, cream and tan.
It reaches up to 15 metres tall and 8 to 10 metres wide, adding roughly 50 to 80 centimetres a year. Full sun to part shade suits it, in any reasonably drained soil. Once established it handles frost, drought, wind, salt spray and the compacted ground of urban sites.
Councils and landscapers use it as a street tree, a car park tree and a shade tree in parks, and it works in larger home gardens where a broad canopy is wanted. Formative pruning over the first few years sets the branch structure, after which it asks very little.
About Chinese Elm
Ulmus parvifolia is a semi deciduous shade tree from China, Korea and Japan, grown here for its vase shaped crown, small glossy serrated leaves and mottled bark that flakes away to reveal cream and tan patches. It is one of the more urban tolerant deciduous trees available in Australia and is planted widely in streets and parks.
It reaches up to 15 metres tall with a canopy 8 to 10 metres wide in good conditions. In restricted street plantings and shallow soils it usually settles well short of that. Allow at least 8 metres of clear space around the trunk if you want the full arching form to develop.
Around 50 to 80 centimetres a year, which is moderate to fast for a deciduous shade tree. Growth is quickest in the first ten years and slows as the crown broadens. Advanced trees in larger containers give a usable canopy sooner, which matters on projects where shade is wanted early.
It is semi deciduous. In cool districts it drops its leaves properly through winter after colouring yellow and bronze. In warmer coastal and subtropical areas it often holds much of its foliage, shedding briefly in late winter as the new leaves push through. Either way the bare period is short.
Yes. It tolerates salt laden wind better than most deciduous trees, which is why it turns up in beachside streetscapes along the east coast. Plant it behind the first line of dunes rather than in full frontal exposure, and water it through the first two summers while the roots establish.
Its roots are less aggressive than those of many large elms, but it is still a substantial tree. Keep it at least 4 to 5 metres from house footings, paving and service trenches, and further again from older drainage lines. In street verges use a root barrier or a structural soil cell.
Water deeply through the first two summers, mulch out to the drip line and keep the mulch off the trunk. Prune in late winter while the tree is bare, removing crossing limbs and lifting the canopy over paths. Once established it needs little beyond an occasional check for deadwood.
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Ulmus glabra 'Lutescens', the Golden Elm, is a deciduous tree grown for foliage colour rather than flowers. The leaves open butter yellow in spring, hold a gold to lime tone through summer and finish yellow in autumn. The crown is broad and rounded on a short trunk, giving a solid, low domed outline.
It grows fast, roughly 60 to 90 centimetres a year, in full sun to part shade. Deep soil with steady moisture gives the best colour, and hot dry wind can scorch the foliage, so shelter it inland. Cool temperate and temperate climates suit it. Frost is no problem and established trees handle dry spells.
Mature size is 10 to 15 metres tall and 12 to 15 metres wide, so the canopy finishes broader than the tree is high. That spread makes it a lawn specimen, a park tree or shade over a long driveway. One tree can carry a whole garden, which is why so many landscapes are built around it.
About Golden Elm
Ulmus glabra 'Lutescens' is a deciduous tree grown for foliage colour rather than flowers. The leaves open butter yellow in spring, hold a gold to lime tone through summer and finish yellow in autumn. The crown is broad and rounded on a short trunk, which gives it a solid, low domed outline.
Mature size is 10 to 15 metres tall and 12 to 15 metres wide, so the canopy is broader than the tree is high. Allow at least 8 metres of clear space around it. This is a tree with real presence, and it needs the room to show the shape it is grown for.
It is fast, around 60 to 90 centimetres a year in deep soil with reliable moisture. Advanced trees establish quickly and put on canopy within a few seasons. Growth is slower in shallow or dry ground, and heat stressed trees hold less colour, so preparing the planting hole properly is worth the effort.
Full sun to part shade both work, but the golden colour is strongest in full sun. In hot inland districts some afternoon shade and shelter from dry wind prevent the foliage scorching and browning at the edges. In cool temperate gardens it takes sun all day without any trouble at all.
Yes. Golden Elm drops its leaves through autumn and stands bare over winter, then leafs out in a strong gold flush in spring. Insignificant flowers appear on the bare wood in early spring ahead of the foliage. The bare winter period lets sun through to whatever is planted or built beneath it.
The root system is wide and largely shallow, and it will lift paving and compete with nearby garden beds. Keep it at least 8 to 10 metres from house slabs, drains and driveways. It can also sucker from the roots, particularly if they are damaged, so avoid cultivating under the canopy.
Water deeply through the first two or three summers and keep a wide ring of mulch, since the surface roots dislike turf competition. Prune in late winter to build a strong framework and remove narrow forks while they are small. Watch for elm leaf beetle from late spring and treat if damage builds.
