The Mediterranean basin, including southern Europe and North Africa, where Olea europaea has been cultivated for thousands of years.
Approximate only. Minimum height important? Confirm with us.
Height guide & disclaimer
Height guide disclaimer: Height ranges are approximate only. As living products, plant heights naturally vary between individual plants, batches, and seasons. No guarantee is given that supplied plants will fall within the stated range. If minimum heights are required, you must confirm current batch heights with Evergreen Trees Direct prior to purchase. Variation in height is normal and is not grounds for return, refund, replacement, or compensation.
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Olea europaea, the common olive, shaped by hand into a cloud-pruned form. Each tree carries a series of separated foliage pads on bare, sculpted limbs, so the grey-green canopy sits above a gnarled trunk in clear tiers. The leaves are narrow and silvery, and cream flowers appear in spring.
Full sun and free-draining soil are all it asks. Growth is slow to moderate at 15 to 30 centimetres a year, and the pruned form is held at its shaped size rather than allowed to run. It is frost tolerant once established, drought tolerant, and equally at home on coastal and inland sites.
Cloud-pruned olives are used as single statements at entries, in courtyards, beside pools, in civic plazas and in large containers. Space them 3 to 4 metres apart where several are used together. Buying a tree that is already shaped saves years of training and gives a finished result on planting day.
About Cloud-Pruned Olive
Cloud pruning is a training method, related to the Japanese niwaki tradition, in which the canopy is reduced to distinct rounded pads of foliage on exposed branches. Applied to an olive, it plays the soft grey-green pads against the heavy, textured trunk. Each tree is shaped individually over several years, so no two are identical.
These are supplied as mature specimens in 1000 litre containers, generally standing around 2.5 to 3.5 metres tall with a similar spread across the shaped canopy. The form is maintained by pruning rather than left to reach the 4 to 10 metres an unpruned olive makes, so the size stays predictable in a designed space.
Trim two or three times through the growing season, from spring to early autumn, taking only the new shoots that break the outline of each pad. Keep the gaps between pads clear so the branch structure stays visible. Use sharp secateurs rather than shears, and avoid cutting into old wood, which regrows unevenly.
Yes, give it full sun. Olives hold their density and foliage colour in bright light, while shaded plants become sparse and drawn, which shows badly in a clipped form. A position out of constant strong wind helps the pads stay even. Reflected heat from paving and walls is not a problem for this species.
Yes, and large containers are one of the most common uses for this form. Choose a pot at least 800 millimetres across with generous drainage, use a free-draining mix, and irrigate reliably, since a shaped canopy in a pot cannot fend for itself. Feed in spring and refresh the mix every few years.
It is frost tolerant once established, handling light to moderate frost, and it becomes drought tolerant after the first couple of years in the ground. Trees in pots need consistent water regardless. Protect newly planted specimens through their first winter in frost-prone gardens, since fresh growth is the part that burns.
Water deeply while the tree settles, then only through extended dry weather once it is in the ground. Feed in early spring with a slow-release fertiliser and keep mulch clear of the trunk. Light seasonal trimming maintains the shape. Remove suckers at the base and any shoots on the clear sections of limb.
| Pot / bag size | Width | Depth |
|---|---|---|
| 30cm Pot | 33cm | 30cm |
| 40cm/45L Pot | 44cm | 41.5cm |
| 50cm Pot / 70L Pot | 55cm | 41.8cm |
| 100L Bag | 50.6cm | 52.8cm |
| 150L Bag | 66cm | 55cm |
| 200L Bag | 71.5cm | 60.5cm |
| 300L Bag | 88cm | 63.8cm |
| 400L Bag | 99cm | 66cm |
| 500L Bag | 122cm | 66cm |
| 750L Bag | 134cm | 69cm |
| 1000L Bag | 146.3cm | 71.5cm |
| 2000L Bag | 176cm | 82.5cm |
General planting reference from our existing size guide. Actual containers can vary by supplier and batch; confirm exact dimensions if required.
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Enter the length of your boundary, then choose how closely you want to plant.
Enter your boundary length to see how many trees you need.
Measure only the boundary you intend to plant—exclude gates and gaps. Spacing is centre to centre. Quantities are rounded up for one row, allowing roughly half the spacing at each end. Site conditions and pruning affect the final hedge.
Olea europaea, the common olive, shaped by hand into a cloud-pruned form. Each tree carries a series of separated foliage pads on bare, sculpted limbs, so the grey-green canopy sits above a gnarled trunk in clear tiers. The leaves are narrow and silvery, and cream flowers appear in spring.
Full sun and free-draining soil are all it asks. Growth is slow to moderate at 15 to 30 centimetres a year, and the pruned form is held at its shaped size rather than allowed to run. It is frost tolerant once established, drought tolerant, and equally at home on coastal and inland sites.
Cloud-pruned olives are used as single statements at entries, in courtyards, beside pools, in civic plazas and in large containers. Space them 3 to 4 metres apart where several are used together. Buying a tree that is already shaped saves years of training and gives a finished result on planting day.
About Cloud-Pruned Olive
Cloud pruning is a training method, related to the Japanese niwaki tradition, in which the canopy is reduced to distinct rounded pads of foliage on exposed branches. Applied to an olive, it plays the soft grey-green pads against the heavy, textured trunk. Each tree is shaped individually over several years, so no two are identical.
These are supplied as mature specimens in 1000 litre containers, generally standing around 2.5 to 3.5 metres tall with a similar spread across the shaped canopy. The form is maintained by pruning rather than left to reach the 4 to 10 metres an unpruned olive makes, so the size stays predictable in a designed space.
Trim two or three times through the growing season, from spring to early autumn, taking only the new shoots that break the outline of each pad. Keep the gaps between pads clear so the branch structure stays visible. Use sharp secateurs rather than shears, and avoid cutting into old wood, which regrows unevenly.
Yes, give it full sun. Olives hold their density and foliage colour in bright light, while shaded plants become sparse and drawn, which shows badly in a clipped form. A position out of constant strong wind helps the pads stay even. Reflected heat from paving and walls is not a problem for this species.
Yes, and large containers are one of the most common uses for this form. Choose a pot at least 800 millimetres across with generous drainage, use a free-draining mix, and irrigate reliably, since a shaped canopy in a pot cannot fend for itself. Feed in spring and refresh the mix every few years.
It is frost tolerant once established, handling light to moderate frost, and it becomes drought tolerant after the first couple of years in the ground. Trees in pots need consistent water regardless. Protect newly planted specimens through their first winter in frost-prone gardens, since fresh growth is the part that burns.
Water deeply while the tree settles, then only through extended dry weather once it is in the ground. Feed in early spring with a slow-release fertiliser and keep mulch clear of the trunk. Light seasonal trimming maintains the shape. Remove suckers at the base and any shoots on the clear sections of limb.
Evergreen (foliage year round)
Olea europaea – Cloud-Pruned Olive Tree is expected to grow 15cm to 30cm per year (slow–moderate).
Olea europaea – Cloud-Pruned Olive Tree works in an:
Olea europaea – Cloud-Pruned Olive Tree is an Evergreen (foliage year round) Tree
Mature Height: 2m to 4m (varies by pruning style)
Mature Width: 2m to 4m
Olea europaea – Cloud-Pruned Olive Tree is expected to grow 15cm to 30cm per year (slow–moderate).
Olea europaea – Cloud-Pruned Olive Tree is expected to grow 15cm to 30cm per year (slow–moderate).
They are considered to have a:
Is Olea europaea – Cloud-Pruned Olive Tree frost tolerant?
Olea europaea – Cloud-Pruned Olive Tree is Frost Tolerant – Can handle light to moderate frost once established.
Olea europaea produces clusters of small, creamy-white, lightly fragrant flowers in late spring to early summer. These subtle blossoms nestle among the sculpted grey-green foliage and may develop into small olives, adding a soft seasonal accent that complements the cloud-pruned form.
Does Olea europaea – Cloud-Pruned Olive Tree flower?
Flowering Period:
Flower Type:
Flower Colour:
Cream
No
Olea europaea – Cloud-Pruned Olive Tree is Native to Most loved for its elegant silvery foliage and sculptural cloud-pruned form, bringing Mediterranean character and artistry to gardens and courtyards.
Its nectar-bearing blooms attract bees and beneficial pollinating insects, while the structured branching and dense foliage pads offer perching and light shelter for small birds. Even in a highly ornamental form, it provides modest ecological value in Mediterranean, urban and coastal gardens.
Olea europaea – Cloud-Pruned Olive Tree will thrive best in:
Olea europaea performs best in well-drained sandy or loam soils and prefers neutral to slightly alkaline conditions, though it tolerates mildly acidic soil. Cloud-pruned specimens particularly benefit from free-draining soil to protect the shaped root structure from waterlogging. Improve heavy clay with coarse material and organic matter to enhance drainage and aeration. Keep soil evenly moist during establishment and shaping, then transition to deep, infrequent watering as the tree matures to support drought resilience, strong evergreen health and the longevity of its sculpted form.
Is Olea europaea – Cloud-Pruned Olive Tree Drought tolerant?
As a young pruned specimen it requires regular watering to recover shaping strength, but once established the Olive Tree develops excellent drought tolerance. Suited to hot, dry Mediterranean conditions, it maintains its sculptural form and evergreen density with only occasional deep watering during extended dry periods.
Enquire for current heights
Heights are approximate and vary between individual trees.
We take pride in supplying A+ grade advanced trees. When stock at our farm is not yet ready, we work with our trusted trade suppliers to source the best available trees for your garden.
Enriched Planting Mix is a certified organic blend of Pure Magic Compost, composted animal manure, gypsum, composted coarse bark and a wetting agent, bagged in 30L. It is built to be dug through existing garden soil at planting time rather than used on its own, and the gypsum is what sets it apart from a plain compost.
Gypsum helps break up heavy clay so water and roots can move through it, while the compost and manure return organic matter and nutrient to tired ground. The coarse bark holds structure and keeps air around the root zone, and the wetting agent keeps moisture in the soil longer after rain or watering.
Use it when planting trees, shrubs, roses, fruit trees and exotic garden plants, particularly into clay. Dig a hole twice the width of the pot and 7 centimetres deeper, then mix roughly one third planting mix through the excavated soil. Spread 7 centimetres of that improved soil in the base before setting the plant in.
About Enriched Planting Mix
It is a blend of Pure Magic Compost, composted animal manure, gypsum, composted coarse bark and a wetting agent. Each part has a job. The compost and manure supply organic matter and nutrient, the gypsum works on clay structure, the bark keeps air around the roots and the wetting agent holds moisture in the soil.
It suits exotic garden plants, including roses, ornamental and deciduous trees, fruit trees, shrubs and perennials, and it earns its keep most on heavy clay sites. It is a planting mix rather than a potting mix, so its job is improving soil at planting time. Phosphorus sensitive natives are the one clear exception.
No, not for the phosphorus sensitive ones. The composted animal manure in this blend lifts phosphorus well above what Proteaceae such as Banksia, Grevillea, Hakea and Protea will tolerate, and the result can be leaf burn, dieback and plant death. Use the Native Potting Mix for those species, or plant them into unimproved local soil.
Yes. It is a certified organic product with no chemical additives, which is why the manure and compost in it are fully composted rather than raw. That makes it sound around fruit trees and vegetable beds, and it means you are adding genuine organic matter to your soil rather than a synthetic conditioner.
Work on roughly one third planting mix to two thirds of the soil you dug out of the hole. For a shrub out of a 200 millimetre pot that is only a few litres. An advanced tree going into a large hole will take considerably more. Judge the quantity by the volume of the hole rather than the size of the plant.
It is not a potting mix and should not be used on its own in a container. The blend is designed to be diluted through garden soil, and used straight in a pot it holds too much water and settles badly. For containers, reach for a premium potting mix, or the native mix if you are potting natives.
Yes. Water the plant well several hours before you plant it, then water thoroughly again once the hole is backfilled and the soil firmed down. That first deep watering settles the improved soil around the root ball and drives out air pockets. Keep the water up over the first few months while the roots establish.
Enriched Planting Mix is a certified organic blend of Pure Magic Compost, composted animal manure, gypsum, composted coarse bark and a wetting agent, bagged in 30L. It is built to be dug through existing garden soil at planting time rather than used on its own, and the gypsum is what sets it apart from a plain compost.
Gypsum helps break up heavy clay so water and roots can move through it, while the compost and manure return organic matter and nutrient to tired ground. The coarse bark holds structure and keeps air around the root zone, and the wetting agent keeps moisture in the soil longer after rain or watering.
Use it when planting trees, shrubs, roses, fruit trees and exotic garden plants, particularly into clay. Dig a hole twice the width of the pot and 7 centimetres deeper, then mix roughly one third planting mix through the excavated soil. Spread 7 centimetres of that improved soil in the base before setting the plant in.
About Enriched Planting Mix
It is a blend of Pure Magic Compost, composted animal manure, gypsum, composted coarse bark and a wetting agent. Each part has a job. The compost and manure supply organic matter and nutrient, the gypsum works on clay structure, the bark keeps air around the roots and the wetting agent holds moisture in the soil.
It suits exotic garden plants, including roses, ornamental and deciduous trees, fruit trees, shrubs and perennials, and it earns its keep most on heavy clay sites. It is a planting mix rather than a potting mix, so its job is improving soil at planting time. Phosphorus sensitive natives are the one clear exception.
No, not for the phosphorus sensitive ones. The composted animal manure in this blend lifts phosphorus well above what Proteaceae such as Banksia, Grevillea, Hakea and Protea will tolerate, and the result can be leaf burn, dieback and plant death. Use the Native Potting Mix for those species, or plant them into unimproved local soil.
Yes. It is a certified organic product with no chemical additives, which is why the manure and compost in it are fully composted rather than raw. That makes it sound around fruit trees and vegetable beds, and it means you are adding genuine organic matter to your soil rather than a synthetic conditioner.
Work on roughly one third planting mix to two thirds of the soil you dug out of the hole. For a shrub out of a 200 millimetre pot that is only a few litres. An advanced tree going into a large hole will take considerably more. Judge the quantity by the volume of the hole rather than the size of the plant.
It is not a potting mix and should not be used on its own in a container. The blend is designed to be diluted through garden soil, and used straight in a pot it holds too much water and settles badly. For containers, reach for a premium potting mix, or the native mix if you are potting natives.
Yes. Water the plant well several hours before you plant it, then water thoroughly again once the hole is backfilled and the soil firmed down. That first deep watering settles the improved soil around the root ball and drives out air pockets. Keep the water up over the first few months while the roots establish.
Buxus sempervirens English Box Topiary Balls are pre-clipped formal evergreen specimens, available in three mature sizes and ready to place. The tight, fine, dark green foliage holds a precise rounded form year-round and gives the classic formal topiary look that no other Buxus replicates. As one of our most consistently strong-selling products, our English Box topiary balls are well-shaped, well-rooted, and arrive in proportion to the pot size.
English Box performs best in cool to temperate climates and is slow growing at around 15 to 25 cm per year in good conditions, which is exactly why it holds sharp formal shapes so well. It thrives in full sun to part shade with well-drained, slightly acidic to neutral loamy soil, and is frost hardy, drought tolerant once established, and excellent in containers. Two light clips per year, in spring and again in late summer, keep the ball form crisp.
Use them flanking entrances, lining formal pathways, anchoring symmetrical garden beds, defining parterre and knot gardens, and in pairs in classic urns and decorative pots at front doors. Buxus sempervirens is the original topiary plant and remains the benchmark for traditional and contemporary formal design, with a level of finesse and density that fast-growing alternatives cannot replicate.
About Buxus sempervirens English Box Topiary Balls
Our English Box topiary balls arrive pre-clipped and ready to place at the size you order. The 30cm/33cm pots have ball diameters of approximately 30 to 45 cm, the 40cm/45L pots have ball diameters of 40 to 55 cm, and the 50cm/75L pots have ball diameters of 50 to 70 cm. They are well-rooted and in proportion to the pot.
English Box is slow-growing, adding approximately 15 to 25 cm per year once established in good conditions. This slow growth rate is one of the reasons it holds sharp formal shapes so well, and why mature pre-clipped specimens command a premium over seedling-grown stock.
English Box (Buxus sempervirens) has the smallest, finest leaves and the tightest formal texture, ideal for traditional parterres and clipped balls. Japanese Box (Buxus microphylla japonica) has slightly larger leaves, grows faster, and handles heat better. Shaggy Box (Buxus bodinieri) has soft, rounded leaves, much better blight resistance, and is the best choice for humid subtropical climates where English Box can struggle.
English Box performs best in cool to temperate regions including Victoria, the ACT, the NSW Southern Highlands and Central Tablelands, Tasmania, and the elevated parts of South Australia and Western Australia. In humid coastal or hot subtropical regions, consider Buxus bodinieri Shaggy Box or Japanese Box instead for better long-term performance.
Lightly clip in spring and again in late summer or early autumn to maintain the ball shape. Avoid pruning in the heat of summer or during frost periods. Use sharp shears for the cleanest formal finish, and step back regularly to check the symmetry of the form.
Yes. English Box is the classic potted topiary plant and pre-clipped balls look particularly striking in pairs at entrances and on terraces. Use a minimum 30L pot for the 30cm/33cm size and scale up from there, with a quality potting mix and a slow-release fertiliser applied twice yearly.
English Box can be affected by box blight, particularly in humid conditions where foliage stays wet. To reduce risk, ensure good air circulation around each plant, avoid overhead watering, and prune to maintain airflow through the canopy. In high-humidity regions, Buxus bodinieri Shaggy Box is a more disease-resistant alternative.
Ficus microcarpa 'Flash' in pleached form is an evergreen fig trained to a clear straight stem with a flat rectangular canopy held above it. The leaves are small, glossy and deep green, knitting together into a solid panel that works like a hedge lifted into the air.
It grows best in full sun to part shade in well drained soil kept moist while it settles. Heat, wind and urban conditions do not trouble it, but frost does, so keep it to frost free or protected positions in warm temperate and subtropical zones. Growth runs 60 to 90 centimetres a year.
Pleached panels go along boundaries, driveways and pool fences to block an upper storey window or a neighbouring outlook while leaving the ground below open for garden beds or parking. Set at 2 to 2.5 metre centres they knit into a continuous screen. Few plants solve overlooking as neatly.
About Pleached Ficus Flash
Pleaching is a training method where a tree is grown on a single clear stem with its branches tied and trimmed to a flat frame overhead. Applied to Ficus microcarpa 'Flash', it produces an evergreen panel of small glossy leaves raised above head height, with open ground left underneath it.
As supplied and maintained, these trees generally stand around 2.5 to 3.5 metres overall, with a clear trunk to about 1.5 to 1.8 metres and a trained canopy panel roughly 1.2 to 1.8 metres wide. The panel can be grown taller and wider over time, or held at the delivered dimensions by trimming.
It puts on 60 to 90 centimetres a year in warm conditions, which is moderate to fast for an evergreen screening tree. That vigour is what fills the pleached frame quickly after planting, and it is also the reason the form needs trimming two or three times through the growing season.
No. Ficus microcarpa 'Flash' is frost sensitive and cold snaps burn the foliage, particularly on young or freshly planted trees. Keep it to frost free or protected positions in warm temperate, coastal and subtropical areas. In marginal districts a courtyard or a wall backed position gives enough shelter to work.
Set them at roughly 2 to 2.5 metre centres so the canopy panels meet and knit into a continuous band within a season or two. Tighter spacing closes the gap faster but crowds the root zone. Line the trunks up carefully at planting, because any misalignment shows badly in a formal screen.
Figs generally have vigorous roots, so keep pleached ficus at least 2 to 3 metres away from sewer lines, pool shells and slab edges, or run a root barrier along the boundary. In planter boxes the root run stays contained, though the trees then depend entirely on irrigation and regular feeding.
Trim the face and top of the panel two or three times over the warmer months to keep the edges crisp, and rub off any shoots appearing on the clear trunk. Water deeply while it establishes, mulch the root zone and feed in spring. Check the ties on the frame so they do not cut in.
Lagerstroemia indica 'Natchez', known as White Crepe Myrtle, is a fast-growing, drought-tolerant flowering tree admired for its profuse white blooms, lush dark green foliage, and striking exfoliating bark. Growing 6-8 metres tall and 3-4 metres wide, it makes a bold statement in avenue plantings, residential gardens, and public landscapes.
Blooming from early summer through autumn, Natchez Crepe Myrtle offers months of beautiful floral display while its glossy leaves turn vibrant red-orange in autumn, adding seasonal contrast. The cinnamon-brown peeling bark reveals smooth cream and tan patches, providing visual interest year-round.
Thriving in full sun, this resilient tree tolerates heat, urban pollution, and poor soils. Its low-maintenance nature makes it perfect for busy homeowners, landscapers, and councils seeking reliable, long-lasting beauty. It looks excellent in sunny spaces, resonating with those who want a stunning, easy-care tree that brightens any landscape.
About Lagerstroemia indica 'Natchez' White Crepe Myrtle
Natchez grows to 6-8 metres tall and 3-4 metres wide, making it one of the larger crepe myrtle cultivars.
Natchez is moderately fast-growing, adding 50-80cm per year in warm conditions with adequate water.
Natchez produces masses of pure white blooms from early summer through to autumn, typically December to April across most Australian climates.
Yes. Natchez is highly drought and heat tolerant once established, and thrives in full sun positions across most Australian climates.
Plant 4-5 metres apart for a full canopy avenue, or 2-3 metres for a denser flowering screen.
Yes. Natchez is deciduous. Leaves turn vibrant red-orange in autumn and drop in winter, revealing its striking cinnamon-brown exfoliating bark.
Prune in late winter while the tree is bare, taking out crossing branches, thin twiggy growth and any suckers from the base. Avoid the hard topping often inflicted on crepe myrtles, which spoils the natural vase shape and hides the exfoliating bark. Light structural pruning is enough. Flowers form on new wood, so a tidy up before spring costs you nothing in summer.
Lagerstroemia indica 'Tuscarora' is a vibrant crepe myrtle producing masses of vivid coral to dark pink flower panicles from early summer through autumn. The long flowering season, glossy summer foliage, rich red-orange autumn colour, and smooth exfoliating bark give Tuscarora year-round visual interest.
Tuscarora grows to 5-7 metres tall and 3-4 metres wide with an upright multi-stemmed vase-shaped form. The size suits feature planting, flowering avenues, screening, and larger gardens, while the naturally tidy habit needs only light pruning in late winter to stay crisp.
Highly drought and heat tolerant once established, Tuscarora performs reliably across most Australian climates in full sun and well-drained soils. It tolerates urban conditions well and is widely used for street and avenue planting as well as garden feature use.
Tuscarora or Natchez? Both are larger crepe myrtle cultivars at 5-8m, suited to avenues and bigger gardens. Tuscarora flowers in vivid coral to dark pink. Natchez flowers in pure white. Choose by flower colour, as both share the same size, form, and hardiness.
About Lagerstroemia indica 'Tuscarora' Dark Pink Crepe Myrtle
Lagerstroemia 'Tuscarora' grows to 5-7 metres tall and 3-4 metres wide with an upright multi-stemmed vase-shaped form.
Tuscarora is fast-growing, adding 40-80cm per year in warm conditions with adequate water.
Tuscarora produces masses of vivid coral to dark pink flower panicles from early summer through autumn, typically December to April across most Australian climates.
Yes. Tuscarora is fully deciduous. Green summer foliage turns rich red and orange in autumn before dropping in winter, revealing smooth exfoliating bark.
Yes. Tuscarora is highly drought and heat tolerant once established and thrives in full sun across most Australian climates.
Both are larger crepe myrtle cultivars at 5-8m. Tuscarora flowers in vivid coral-dark pink, while Natchez flowers in pure white. Choose by flower colour, as both suit avenues and larger gardens.
Plant 3-4 metres apart for a flowering avenue, or 2-3 metres for a denser flowering screen.
Gardenia augusta 'Magnifica' is a compact evergreen flowering shrub valued for its large highly fragrant double white flowers and lush glossy dark green foliage. From late spring through summer it produces creamy-white blooms up to 10 cm across that perfume the surrounding garden, set against broad leathery leaves that hold their colour year-round.
It performs reliably in full sun to part shade with humus-rich, slightly acidic and free-draining soil. Mature plants reach 1.5 to 2 metres tall and 1 to 1.5 metres wide, forming a dense rounded habit that responds well to light pruning after flowering. Gardenia 'Magnifica' is frost tolerant once established and benefits from regular feeding and watering through the warmer months to support strong flowering.
As a fragrant evergreen flowering shrub for cottage, formal, Japanese-inspired and low-maintenance gardens, in courtyards, entrance plantings, informal hedges and decorative pots near pathways, Gardenia augusta 'Magnifica' brings outstanding perfume, glossy foliage and reliable summer flowering to gardens where its scent can be appreciated up close.
About Gardenia augusta 'Magnifica' Magnifica Gardenia
Gardenia 'Magnifica' flowers from late spring through summer, producing large creamy-white double blooms up to 10 cm across. The flowers are intensely fragrant and the display lasts for several months, with light repeat flowering possible into autumn in warm conditions.
Mature plants reach approximately 1.5 to 2 metres tall and 1 to 1.5 metres wide, forming a dense rounded habit. Growth is moderate at 20 to 40 cm per year, and the plant can be lightly pruned to maintain a more compact size or shaped into a formal flowering hedge.
Gardenia 'Magnifica' performs best in warm temperate to subtropical climates with full sun to part shade. It thrives across coastal NSW, Queensland, frost-free parts of Victoria and South Australia, and warm coastal areas. It prefers humus-rich slightly acidic soil and protection from harsh afternoon sun in hot inland areas.
Gardenia 'Magnifica' is frost tolerant once established and handles light to moderate frost without damage. Young plants benefit from protection in their first winter through frost-prone areas, and severe inland frost should be avoided. Mature plants in established positions hold their foliage and form through cooler months.
Yes. Gardenia 'Magnifica' is excellent in large decorative pots near entrances and courtyards where its perfume can be appreciated up close. Use a quality potting mix designed for acid-loving plants, water regularly through the warmer months, and feed with an acid-loving plant food in spring and summer.
Water regularly during the growing season to keep the soil evenly moist but never waterlogged. Feed with an acid-loving plant food in spring and again in mid-summer to support strong flowering. Prune lightly after flowering to maintain shape and encourage dense bushy growth, and mulch annually with an acidic mulch like pine bark.
Yellowing leaves on Gardenia 'Magnifica' usually indicate either iron deficiency in alkaline soil, overwatering, or seasonal cool weather. The most common cause is alkaline soil pH. Apply an iron chelate or soil acidifier, ensure drainage is excellent, and mulch with pine bark to maintain the acidic conditions Gardenias need to thrive.
Murraya paniculata, known as Orange Jasmine, is one of the most popular hedging and fragrant feature shrubs in Australia. The glossy dark green foliage is densely packed from the base, and the clusters of intensely fragrant white flowers appear in repeated flushes through the warmer months, scenting entire gardens on warm evenings.
Murraya grows to 2-4 metres tall and 1.5-3 metres wide, and is most commonly maintained as a 1.5-2.5 metre clipped hedge with regular pruning. The dense habit, fast growth, and excellent response to shaping make it the go-to choice for fragrant boundaries, courtyard screens, and entrance plantings, particularly across NSW and QLD where it thrives.
Murraya is fast establishing, low maintenance, and reliably evergreen. It performs best in warm temperate to subtropical climates and frost-free parts of southern Australia, in full sun to part shade with well-drained soils. Once established, occasional light pruning keeps the hedge tight and encourages repeat flowering flushes. This listing runs the full range from 200mm and 250mm tubestock up to advanced 100L and 200L specimens, so you can plant a young hedge and grow it on, or start with mature stock for height and screening in the first season.
Two trained forms are also available. The 50cm Standard Form is a clipped head carried on a clear straight stem, the classic lollipop shape for framing an entry or repeating down a driveway. The 90L Ball Form is a specimen already clipped to a dense sphere, ready to place. Both arrive trained, so the shaping and the growing-on time are already done. Every other size on this listing is the natural bushy form, supplied as a shrub for hedges and screens you clip yourself.
About Murraya paniculata Orange Jasmine
Both are pre-clipped, but they sit at different heights. The Standard Form is a clipped head on a clear straight stem, so the foliage sits at eye level and you can plant underneath it. The Ball Form is a sphere sitting low to the ground, used for pots, bed corners and entry pairs. They cost more than the shrub sizes because the training and the growing-on time are already done.
Murraya paniculata grows to 2-4 metres tall and 1.5-3 metres wide, but is most commonly maintained as a 1.5-2.5 metre hedge with regular pruning. The Standard and Ball Forms are held permanently at their clipped size.
Murraya is fast-growing, adding 40-80cm per year once established in warm conditions.
Murraya produces clusters of intensely fragrant white flowers in flushes throughout the warmer months, typically September to May across Australia. The scent resembles orange blossom and carries on warm evenings. Flowering is lighter on the heavily clipped Standard and Ball Forms.
Yes. Murraya is one of the most popular evergreen hedging shrubs in Australia, particularly in NSW and QLD, thanks to its glossy foliage, fragrant flowers, and tolerance of pruning.
Plant 60-80cm apart for a dense formal hedge, or 1 metre for a more relaxed informal screen. Those spacings suit the 200mm through 45L sizes. Advanced 50cm, 75L, 100L and 200L plants already carry a wide canopy, so allow 1 to 2 metres between them and they will knit together quickly. Standards are typically placed in pairs at an entry or repeated at 2 to 3 metre centres.
Murraya thrives in warm temperate to subtropical regions including NSW, QLD, and frost-free parts of VIC, SA and WA. It is sensitive to heavy frost and is best avoided in cold inland areas.
Yes. The smaller sizes move happily into large pots (45L+) and are a popular choice for balcony screening, fragrant courtyards, and entrance plantings. The Standard and Ball Forms were made for pots. The advanced 100L and 200L plants are heavy and root hungry, so plant those in the ground rather than potting them on.
Trachelospermum jasminoides 'Balls' is Star Jasmine grown and clipped into a dense evergreen sphere. The small glossy leaves sit tight on a woody framework, holding a clean rounded outline year round. White pinwheel flowers open in spring and carry a strong sweet scent right across a courtyard.
Ball specimens hold at about 1 to 1.5 metres tall and wide with light clipping. Full sun to part shade suits them, in any free draining soil. Growth is slow to moderate at 30 to 50 centimetres a year. They handle coastal exposure, light frost and dry spells once the roots are down.
Repeat them along a driveway, either side of an entry, or in pots on a terrace where a formal shape is wanted straight away. They read as structure in a planting scheme without the height of a hedge, and because the form is already trained, a new garden looks settled from the day it goes in.
About Star Jasmine Balls
They are Trachelospermum jasminoides, the common Star Jasmine, grown and clipped into a dense evergreen sphere on a woody framework. Instead of climbing, the plant is trained into a self supporting rounded shape. The foliage is small, glossy and dark green, and the plant carries scented white flowers through spring.
They hold at roughly 1 to 1.5 metres tall and 1 to 1.5 metres wide. Growth is slow to moderate at 30 to 50 centimetres a year, so a light clip once or twice a year keeps the ball tight at whatever size within that range suits the setting.
Full sun to part shade both work. Full sun gives the densest foliage and the heaviest flowering, while part shade produces slightly softer, more open growth and fewer flowers. Avoid deep shade, where the ball thins out and loses its outline. Morning sun with afternoon protection suits hot inland gardens.
Yes, and pots are one of the main uses. A container 50 to 60 centimetres wide with a quality free draining mix will hold a ball for years. Water more often than you would in the ground, especially in summer, and feed in spring and again in late summer. Refresh the mix every few years.
Yes, the foliage is held year round. The glossy dark green leaves take on a bronze tinge in cold weather and green up again in spring, but the plant never goes bare. That is what makes it useful as permanent structure in a scheme, particularly in winter once perennials have died back.
Flowering runs through spring, roughly September to November, and often carries into early summer in warmer districts. The white pinwheel flowers are small but produced in quantity, and the scent is strong on still evenings. Flowering is heaviest on plants in full sun that were not clipped hard just before bud set.
Clip lightly with hedging shears once after flowering and again in late summer if needed, taking only the new growth to keep the outline crisp. Water deeply in dry weather, mulch the base, and feed in early spring. The sap is milky and can irritate skin, so wear gloves when trimming.
2000 in stock
Olea europaea, the common olive, shaped by hand into a cloud-pruned form. Each tree carries a series of separated foliage pads on bare, sculpted limbs, so the grey-green canopy sits above a gnarled trunk in clear tiers. The leaves are narrow and silvery, and cream flowers appear in spring.
Full sun and free-draining soil are all it asks. Growth is slow to moderate at 15 to 30 centimetres a year, and the pruned form is held at its shaped size rather than allowed to run. It is frost tolerant once established, drought tolerant, and equally at home on coastal and inland sites.
Cloud-pruned olives are used as single statements at entries, in courtyards, beside pools, in civic plazas and in large containers. Space them 3 to 4 metres apart where several are used together. Buying a tree that is already shaped saves years of training and gives a finished result on planting day.
About Cloud-Pruned Olive
Cloud pruning is a training method, related to the Japanese niwaki tradition, in which the canopy is reduced to distinct rounded pads of foliage on exposed branches. Applied to an olive, it plays the soft grey-green pads against the heavy, textured trunk. Each tree is shaped individually over several years, so no two are identical.
These are supplied as mature specimens in 1000 litre containers, generally standing around 2.5 to 3.5 metres tall with a similar spread across the shaped canopy. The form is maintained by pruning rather than left to reach the 4 to 10 metres an unpruned olive makes, so the size stays predictable in a designed space.
Trim two or three times through the growing season, from spring to early autumn, taking only the new shoots that break the outline of each pad. Keep the gaps between pads clear so the branch structure stays visible. Use sharp secateurs rather than shears, and avoid cutting into old wood, which regrows unevenly.
Yes, give it full sun. Olives hold their density and foliage colour in bright light, while shaded plants become sparse and drawn, which shows badly in a clipped form. A position out of constant strong wind helps the pads stay even. Reflected heat from paving and walls is not a problem for this species.
Yes, and large containers are one of the most common uses for this form. Choose a pot at least 800 millimetres across with generous drainage, use a free-draining mix, and irrigate reliably, since a shaped canopy in a pot cannot fend for itself. Feed in spring and refresh the mix every few years.
It is frost tolerant once established, handling light to moderate frost, and it becomes drought tolerant after the first couple of years in the ground. Trees in pots need consistent water regardless. Protect newly planted specimens through their first winter in frost-prone gardens, since fresh growth is the part that burns.
Water deeply while the tree settles, then only through extended dry weather once it is in the ground. Feed in early spring with a slow-release fertiliser and keep mulch clear of the trunk. Light seasonal trimming maintains the shape. Remove suckers at the base and any shoots on the clear sections of limb.
