Most loved for its elegant pure-white blooms in late winter to spring and its glossy evergreen foliage, clipped into a refined ball topiary.
Approximate only. Minimum height important? Confirm with us.
Height guide & disclaimer
Height guide disclaimer: Height ranges are approximate only. As living products, plant heights naturally vary between individual plants, batches, and seasons. No guarantee is given that supplied plants will fall within the stated range. If minimum heights are required, you must confirm current batch heights with Evergreen Trees Direct prior to purchase. Variation in height is normal and is not grounds for return, refund, replacement, or compensation.
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Camellia japonica 'White Nun' is an evergreen shrub presented here as a clipped topiary ball. Large pure white semi-double flowers open from late winter into spring against deep green glossy leaves. The contrast between white flower and dark foliage is the whole point of the cultivar, and the clipped form keeps the display neat and contained.
Partial shade with morning sun gives the best result, since strong afternoon light marks white camellia petals. Soil should be free draining, slightly acidic and rich in organic matter. Growth is slow to moderate at about 20 to 40 centimetres a year. Light to moderate frost is tolerated once established, and cool to warm temperate districts suit it.
Use these balls where a formal note is wanted, flanking a doorway, repeated down a path, set into a courtyard bed or standing in a pot on a shaded terrace. They also work as full stops at either end of a hedge run. Plants shaped in advance let a landscape read as complete from the day of handover.
About White Nun Camellia
It is a white flowering cultivar of the common camellia, grown here as a clipped topiary ball. The blooms are large, semi-double and pure white, opening in late winter and spring over glossy deep green foliage. The plant is evergreen, long lived and slow growing, which is exactly what makes it hold a clipped shape so well.
The 50 centimetre size carries a head of roughly 50 to 60 centimetres across, and the 100 litre size around 70 to 90 centimetres. Both are held at that size with regular trimming. Unclipped and left alone the plant would slowly build to a natural shrub of 3 to 4 metres over many years.
Flowering runs from late winter into spring, generally July through October across southern Australia. Buds open progressively over about two months rather than all at once. White camellia petals bruise more visibly than coloured ones, so a position sheltered from driving rain and harsh sun keeps the flowers looking clean for longer.
Partial shade with morning sun is best. Camellia japonica evolved as an understorey plant and its foliage burns in strong exposed sun, while white flowers in particular discolour quickly under afternoon heat. An eastern aspect, a shaded courtyard, or a position under high open canopy all give good results.
No. Camellias produce a fibrous, relatively shallow root system with no aggressive spreading habit, so they are safe to plant near paving, walls, drainage and service lines. The trade off is that those surface roots dislike competition and dry out quickly, which is why mulch and consistent watering matter more than they would for a deeper rooted shrub.
Yes. A container 40 to 50 centimetres wide suits a single ball for an entry, courtyard or balcony. Use a free draining camellia or azalea potting mix and keep the drainage holes clear. Potted camellias dry out fast in summer and need watering two or three times a week during hot weather.
Trim two or three times a year, taking only soft new growth, with the main shaping done as soon as flowering ends. Never cut back hard into old bare wood, since camellias are slow to reshoot from it. Feed with a camellia fertiliser after that prune, mulch the root zone, and water deeply through summer.
| Pot / bag size | Width | Depth |
|---|---|---|
| 30cm Pot | 33cm | 30cm |
| 40cm/45L Pot | 44cm | 41.5cm |
| 50cm Pot / 70L Pot | 55cm | 41.8cm |
| 100L Bag | 50.6cm | 52.8cm |
| 150L Bag | 66cm | 55cm |
| 200L Bag | 71.5cm | 60.5cm |
| 300L Bag | 88cm | 63.8cm |
| 400L Bag | 99cm | 66cm |
| 500L Bag | 122cm | 66cm |
| 750L Bag | 134cm | 69cm |
| 1000L Bag | 146.3cm | 71.5cm |
| 2000L Bag | 176cm | 82.5cm |
General planting reference from our existing size guide. Actual containers can vary by supplier and batch; confirm exact dimensions if required.
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Enter the length of your boundary, then choose how closely you want to plant.
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Measure only the boundary you intend to plant—exclude gates and gaps. Spacing is centre to centre. Quantities are rounded up for one row, allowing roughly half the spacing at each end. Site conditions and pruning affect the final hedge.
Camellia japonica 'White Nun' is an evergreen shrub presented here as a clipped topiary ball. Large pure white semi-double flowers open from late winter into spring against deep green glossy leaves. The contrast between white flower and dark foliage is the whole point of the cultivar, and the clipped form keeps the display neat and contained.
Partial shade with morning sun gives the best result, since strong afternoon light marks white camellia petals. Soil should be free draining, slightly acidic and rich in organic matter. Growth is slow to moderate at about 20 to 40 centimetres a year. Light to moderate frost is tolerated once established, and cool to warm temperate districts suit it.
Use these balls where a formal note is wanted, flanking a doorway, repeated down a path, set into a courtyard bed or standing in a pot on a shaded terrace. They also work as full stops at either end of a hedge run. Plants shaped in advance let a landscape read as complete from the day of handover.
About White Nun Camellia
It is a white flowering cultivar of the common camellia, grown here as a clipped topiary ball. The blooms are large, semi-double and pure white, opening in late winter and spring over glossy deep green foliage. The plant is evergreen, long lived and slow growing, which is exactly what makes it hold a clipped shape so well.
The 50 centimetre size carries a head of roughly 50 to 60 centimetres across, and the 100 litre size around 70 to 90 centimetres. Both are held at that size with regular trimming. Unclipped and left alone the plant would slowly build to a natural shrub of 3 to 4 metres over many years.
Flowering runs from late winter into spring, generally July through October across southern Australia. Buds open progressively over about two months rather than all at once. White camellia petals bruise more visibly than coloured ones, so a position sheltered from driving rain and harsh sun keeps the flowers looking clean for longer.
Partial shade with morning sun is best. Camellia japonica evolved as an understorey plant and its foliage burns in strong exposed sun, while white flowers in particular discolour quickly under afternoon heat. An eastern aspect, a shaded courtyard, or a position under high open canopy all give good results.
No. Camellias produce a fibrous, relatively shallow root system with no aggressive spreading habit, so they are safe to plant near paving, walls, drainage and service lines. The trade off is that those surface roots dislike competition and dry out quickly, which is why mulch and consistent watering matter more than they would for a deeper rooted shrub.
Yes. A container 40 to 50 centimetres wide suits a single ball for an entry, courtyard or balcony. Use a free draining camellia or azalea potting mix and keep the drainage holes clear. Potted camellias dry out fast in summer and need watering two or three times a week during hot weather.
Trim two or three times a year, taking only soft new growth, with the main shaping done as soon as flowering ends. Never cut back hard into old bare wood, since camellias are slow to reshoot from it. Feed with a camellia fertiliser after that prune, mulch the root zone, and water deeply through summer.
Evergreen (foliage year round)
Camellia japonica 'White Nun' Balls is expected to grow 20cm to 40cm per year (approx.).
Camellia japonica 'White Nun' Balls works in an:
Camellia japonica 'White Nun' Balls is an Evergreen (foliage year round) Tree
Mature Height: Naturally grows 2m to 4m (approx.) (Topiary height is maintained by pruning)
Mature Width: 2.0m to 2.5m
Camellia japonica 'White Nun' Balls is expected to grow 20cm to 40cm per year (approx.).
Camellia japonica 'White Nun' Balls is expected to grow 20cm to 40cm per year (approx.).
They are considered to have a:
Is Camellia japonica 'White Nun' Balls frost tolerant?
Camellia japonica 'White Nun' Balls is Frost Tolerant – Can handle light to moderate frost once established.
Camellia japonica ‘White Nun’ produces elegant pure white formal double flowers from late winter into spring. The pristine blooms contrast beautifully with the glossy dark-green foliage, creating a refined and highly ornamental seasonal display—perfect for clipped topiary forms.
Does Camellia japonica 'White Nun' Balls flower?
Flowering Period:
Flower Type:
Flower Colour:
White
No
Camellia japonica 'White Nun' Balls is Native to Japan and Korea, where Camellia japonica grows naturally in forest margins and shaded woodland areas..
Its cool-season blooms provide nectar and pollen for early-season pollinators such as native bees and hoverflies, while the dense evergreen foliage provides shelter and nesting space for small birds. The topiary form also enhances structured garden habitats that support wildlife activity.
Camellia japonica 'White Nun' Balls will thrive best in:
Camellia japonica ‘White Nun’ performs best in well-drained loam or sandy loam soils and prefers slightly acidic conditions. It may struggle in alkaline or poorly drained soils unless improved with organic matter to enhance aeration and moisture balance. Keep soil evenly moist during establishment, then transition to deep, occasional watering as the plant matures to support robust flowering and evergreen foliage, especially when maintained as a clipped topiary.
Is Camellia japonica 'White Nun' Balls Drought tolerant?
As a young plant it requires regular watering, but once established Camellia ‘White Nun’ develops moderate drought tolerance. It performs best with deep, occasional watering during extended dry periods and appreciates shelter from hot, drying winds to preserve flower quality and foliage health.
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Heights are approximate and vary between individual trees.
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Enriched Planting Mix is a certified organic blend of Pure Magic Compost, composted animal manure, gypsum, composted coarse bark and a wetting agent, bagged in 30L. It is built to be dug through existing garden soil at planting time rather than used on its own, and the gypsum is what sets it apart from a plain compost.
Gypsum helps break up heavy clay so water and roots can move through it, while the compost and manure return organic matter and nutrient to tired ground. The coarse bark holds structure and keeps air around the root zone, and the wetting agent keeps moisture in the soil longer after rain or watering.
Use it when planting trees, shrubs, roses, fruit trees and exotic garden plants, particularly into clay. Dig a hole twice the width of the pot and 7 centimetres deeper, then mix roughly one third planting mix through the excavated soil. Spread 7 centimetres of that improved soil in the base before setting the plant in.
About Enriched Planting Mix
It is a blend of Pure Magic Compost, composted animal manure, gypsum, composted coarse bark and a wetting agent. Each part has a job. The compost and manure supply organic matter and nutrient, the gypsum works on clay structure, the bark keeps air around the roots and the wetting agent holds moisture in the soil.
It suits exotic garden plants, including roses, ornamental and deciduous trees, fruit trees, shrubs and perennials, and it earns its keep most on heavy clay sites. It is a planting mix rather than a potting mix, so its job is improving soil at planting time. Phosphorus sensitive natives are the one clear exception.
No, not for the phosphorus sensitive ones. The composted animal manure in this blend lifts phosphorus well above what Proteaceae such as Banksia, Grevillea, Hakea and Protea will tolerate, and the result can be leaf burn, dieback and plant death. Use the Native Potting Mix for those species, or plant them into unimproved local soil.
Yes. It is a certified organic product with no chemical additives, which is why the manure and compost in it are fully composted rather than raw. That makes it sound around fruit trees and vegetable beds, and it means you are adding genuine organic matter to your soil rather than a synthetic conditioner.
Work on roughly one third planting mix to two thirds of the soil you dug out of the hole. For a shrub out of a 200 millimetre pot that is only a few litres. An advanced tree going into a large hole will take considerably more. Judge the quantity by the volume of the hole rather than the size of the plant.
It is not a potting mix and should not be used on its own in a container. The blend is designed to be diluted through garden soil, and used straight in a pot it holds too much water and settles badly. For containers, reach for a premium potting mix, or the native mix if you are potting natives.
Yes. Water the plant well several hours before you plant it, then water thoroughly again once the hole is backfilled and the soil firmed down. That first deep watering settles the improved soil around the root ball and drives out air pockets. Keep the water up over the first few months while the roots establish.
Enriched Planting Mix is a certified organic blend of Pure Magic Compost, composted animal manure, gypsum, composted coarse bark and a wetting agent, bagged in 30L. It is built to be dug through existing garden soil at planting time rather than used on its own, and the gypsum is what sets it apart from a plain compost.
Gypsum helps break up heavy clay so water and roots can move through it, while the compost and manure return organic matter and nutrient to tired ground. The coarse bark holds structure and keeps air around the root zone, and the wetting agent keeps moisture in the soil longer after rain or watering.
Use it when planting trees, shrubs, roses, fruit trees and exotic garden plants, particularly into clay. Dig a hole twice the width of the pot and 7 centimetres deeper, then mix roughly one third planting mix through the excavated soil. Spread 7 centimetres of that improved soil in the base before setting the plant in.
About Enriched Planting Mix
It is a blend of Pure Magic Compost, composted animal manure, gypsum, composted coarse bark and a wetting agent. Each part has a job. The compost and manure supply organic matter and nutrient, the gypsum works on clay structure, the bark keeps air around the roots and the wetting agent holds moisture in the soil.
It suits exotic garden plants, including roses, ornamental and deciduous trees, fruit trees, shrubs and perennials, and it earns its keep most on heavy clay sites. It is a planting mix rather than a potting mix, so its job is improving soil at planting time. Phosphorus sensitive natives are the one clear exception.
No, not for the phosphorus sensitive ones. The composted animal manure in this blend lifts phosphorus well above what Proteaceae such as Banksia, Grevillea, Hakea and Protea will tolerate, and the result can be leaf burn, dieback and plant death. Use the Native Potting Mix for those species, or plant them into unimproved local soil.
Yes. It is a certified organic product with no chemical additives, which is why the manure and compost in it are fully composted rather than raw. That makes it sound around fruit trees and vegetable beds, and it means you are adding genuine organic matter to your soil rather than a synthetic conditioner.
Work on roughly one third planting mix to two thirds of the soil you dug out of the hole. For a shrub out of a 200 millimetre pot that is only a few litres. An advanced tree going into a large hole will take considerably more. Judge the quantity by the volume of the hole rather than the size of the plant.
It is not a potting mix and should not be used on its own in a container. The blend is designed to be diluted through garden soil, and used straight in a pot it holds too much water and settles badly. For containers, reach for a premium potting mix, or the native mix if you are potting natives.
Yes. Water the plant well several hours before you plant it, then water thoroughly again once the hole is backfilled and the soil firmed down. That first deep watering settles the improved soil around the root ball and drives out air pockets. Keep the water up over the first few months while the roots establish.
Camellia sasanqua 'Plantation Pink' is an evergreen shrub with single, soft pink flowers and small glossy dark green leaves. Flowering begins in mid autumn and carries into winter, and the petals fall cleanly rather than browning on the bush. Growth is upright and dense, which is why it takes so well to hedging.
It handles more sun than a japonica camellia, from full sun through to part shade, in a well drained slightly acidic soil with organic matter worked in. Temperate and cool temperate gardens suit it, and light to moderate frost is fine. Growth is 20 to 40 centimetres a year. Water through dry spells while buds are forming.
Use it as a flowering hedge, a screen along a boundary, an espalier against a wall, or a single shrub in a shaded courtyard. It also takes well to a large pot. The autumn to winter flowering fills a gap in the year when most of the garden has already finished.
About Plantation Pink Camellia
'Plantation Pink' is a well known sasanqua camellia, an evergreen shrub with single, soft pink flowers and small glossy dark green leaves. It is vigorous, dense and upright, and it clips well, which is why it is one of the most widely planted camellias for hedging and screening in Australian gardens.
Left to grow it reaches about 3 to 4 metres tall and 2 to 3 metres wide. As a clipped hedge it is usually held between 1.5 and 2.5 metres, and it espaliers neatly against a wall. Growth is 20 to 40 centimetres a year, so a hedge takes a few seasons to close up fully.
Flowering starts in mid autumn and carries through into winter, roughly April to July, which is earlier than the japonica camellias. The single pink flowers open in succession over many weeks and drop cleanly rather than browning on the bush, so the plant stays tidy for the whole of the display.
For a dense informal screen plant 1 to 1.5 metres apart. For a tighter formal hedge, 80 centimetres apart closes the line sooner and gives a flatter face. As a single courtyard specimen or in a pot, allow a container 40 to 50 centimetres wide and keep it clear of competing roots.
Yes. Sasanqua camellias take considerably more sun than japonicas, and full sun gives the heaviest flowering and the densest growth. In hot inland gardens some protection from harsh afternoon light keeps the foliage from bronzing. It also performs well in part shade, simply with slightly fewer flowers over the season.
Yes. Use a pot at least 50 centimetres wide with a free draining, slightly acidic mix formulated for camellias and azaleas. Water regularly, since containers dry quickly and dry roots in autumn will cost you flower buds. Feed after flowering and again in late summer, and refresh the top of the mix each year.
Prune straight after flowering finishes, before the new growth that carries next season's buds gets away. Hedges take shearing well and can be cut hard if they become woody. Feed with a camellia and azalea fertiliser after flowering, mulch with a leafy compost, and keep water up through summer and autumn while buds set.
Camellia japonica 'Fran Honeyer' is an evergreen shrub presented here as a clipped topiary ball. Rich pink formal double flowers open from late winter into mid spring above thick glossy dark green leaves. The sphere is built up in the nursery over several years, so the plant arrives as a finished form rather than a starting point.
It performs best in partial shade or morning sun, with protection from hot afternoon exposure. Soil should be free draining, humus rich and slightly acidic. Growth is slow to moderate, which is why the shape holds so well between trims. Light to moderate frost is tolerated once established, and cool to warm temperate districts suit it.
Balls of this kind are used in pairs at an entry, repeated along a path, set into a raised bed or placed as single accents in a lawn. A 40 to 50 centimetre wide pot carries one specimen on a courtyard or balcony. Because the form is already made, a planting reads as complete on the day it goes in.
About Fran Honeyer Camellia
It is an evergreen camellia cultivar with deep pink formal double flowers, trained and clipped into a topiary ball. The species, Camellia japonica, is a long lived shade tolerant shrub from east Asia. In this form the plant is grown for its architecture as much as its flowers, giving a clean geometric shape that stays green all year.
The clipped head sits at roughly 70 to 90 centimetres across, with overall plant height around 1 to 1.3 metres including the base. Regular trimming holds it at that size indefinitely. If left unclipped the plant would eventually revert to a natural shrub of 3 to 4 metres, so ongoing shaping is what keeps the form.
Flowering runs from late winter into mid spring, generally July through October in most southern Australian gardens. Warmer coastal districts start a few weeks earlier and cool highland gardens a little later. The formal double blooms are held well against the dark foliage, and flowering continues over roughly eight to ten weeks rather than in one flush.
Partial shade is the preference, ideally with gentle morning sun and shelter from hot afternoon light. Camellia japonica scorches in strong exposed sun, particularly on a clipped surface where every leaf sits at the outside of the plant. A position under high tree canopy, on an eastern wall, or in a courtyard with reflected light suits it well.
Yes, and containers are one of its most common uses. A pot 40 to 50 centimetres wide holds a single specimen for a courtyard, entry or balcony. Use a premium potted colour or camellia mix, make sure the drainage holes stay clear, and water more often than you would in the ground, since pots dry out quickly in summer.
Yes, once established it handles light to moderate frost, which covers most cool temperate parts of southern Australia. The foliage is unaffected by ordinary winter cold. A severe frost while flowers are open can mark the petals, so in frost prone gardens a position with overhead protection from a wall or canopy keeps the display looking better.
Trim lightly two or three times a year, taking only the new growth, with the main cut straight after flowering ends in spring. Keep the sphere even by working around the plant rather than finishing one side. Feed with a camellia fertiliser after that prune, mulch to hold moisture, and water deeply rather than briefly.
Pittosporum tobira 'Miss Muffet' forms a naturally tidy dome of glossy dark green foliage without ever needing to be clipped into shape, and carries clusters of intensely fragrant creamy-white flowers through spring. It is the low structural plant that does the work of a clipped hedge with none of the trimming.
'Miss Muffet' grows to just 0.5 to 1 metre tall and around 1.5 metres wide at 20 to 40 centimetres per year, holding density right to ground level. That compact scale suits low borders along paths and driveways, underplanting beneath feature trees, and mass planting in courtyards and civic beds.
'Miss Muffet' grows in full sun to part shade, tolerates light to moderate frost once established, and copes with coastal exposure and extended dry. It performs well in pots, and maintenance is limited to removing the occasional wayward shoot.
About Pittosporum tobira 'Miss Muffet'
'Miss Muffet' grows to 0.5 to 1 metre tall and around 1.5 metres wide, forming a naturally rounded dome. It is a true dwarf and will not need cutting back to stay low.
No. It holds a tidy rounded shape naturally. An occasional trim to remove a wayward shoot is all that is required, which is its main advantage over clipped alternatives.
Clusters of creamy-white flowers appear through spring and are strongly fragrant, with a scent often compared to orange blossom.
Yes. Plant 0.8 to 1 metre apart for a continuous low evergreen border. Because it is naturally dense and low, it forms a hedge line without formal clipping.
Yes. It performs in full sun through to part shade, which makes it useful for underplanting beneath established canopy trees where light is limited.
Yes. Pittosporum tobira tolerates salt-laden wind and sandy soils well, and 'Miss Muffet' is widely used in coastal courtyard and foreshore plantings.
Yes. Its compact rounded habit makes it an excellent pot plant for entries, balconies and courtyards. Use a free-draining mix and water regularly through summer.
Callistemon viminalis 'Slim' holds a naturally narrow upright habit just 1 to 1.5 metres wide, which makes it one of the few flowering natives that will screen a boundary in a bed too shallow for a conventional hedge. Vivid red bottlebrush flowers cover it in spring and again in autumn.
'Slim' grows to 2.5 to 3 metres tall at 20 to 40 centimetres per year, filling in densely from ground level without needing to be clipped into shape. It works as a narrow privacy screen, a driveway border, a civic mass planting, or an understorey layer beneath taller canopy trees.
This Australian native grows in full sun, tolerates light to moderate frost once established, and copes with poor soils and extended dry. The flowers are a strong nectar source for honeyeaters and native bees, and maintenance is limited to a light trim after flowering.
About Callistemon viminalis 'Slim'
'Slim' grows to 2.5 to 3 metres tall and only 1 to 1.5 metres wide. That narrow footprint is its defining feature and the reason it is chosen for tight spaces.
Plant 80 centimetres to 1 metre apart for a continuous dense screen. Because the plant is naturally narrow, closer spacing works without the crowding that affects wider bottlebrushes.
'Slim' flowers in spring and again in autumn, carrying vivid red bottlebrush flowers. The two distinct flushes give a longer display than single-season flowering natives.
No. 'Slim' holds its narrow upright form naturally. A light trim after flowering keeps it dense and tidy, but it does not need clipping to maintain its shape.
Yes. The nectar-rich red flowers are worked heavily by honeyeaters and native bees through both flowering flushes.
Yes. Its compact narrow habit suits large pots on balconies, courtyards and terraces where a tall narrow evergreen is wanted. Use a quality potting mix and water regularly through summer.
It handles light to moderate frost once established. Protect young plants through their first winter in colder inland districts.
Correa 'Tucker Time Dinner Bells' is a compact Australian native shrub with a rounded bushy habit and small glossy dark green leaves. Its feature is the flowers, large pendulous tubular bells in red to orange with greenish yellow tips, hanging along the stems through the cooler months when little else is out.
It grows in full sun or part shade in free draining soil and takes light to moderate frost once established. Growth is around 20 to 40 centimetres a year, reaching roughly 1 to 1.2 metres across and a similar height. It tolerates dry spells, coastal conditions and low fertility, and wants no phosphorus rich fertiliser.
Use it in native and bird attracting gardens, as an informal low hedge, in borders, in pots, or as underplanting beneath taller natives and eucalypts. It is one of the few shrubs that puts on a real display through autumn and winter, which makes it worth having in a garden that otherwise goes quiet.
About Dinner Bells Correa
It is a hybrid Australian native correa bred in the Tucker Time series for large pendulous bell flowers and a neat compact habit. The flowers are red to orange with pale green tips and hang from the stems in numbers. The foliage is small, glossy and dark green, and the plant is evergreen.
It forms a rounded shrub roughly 1 to 1.2 metres wide and a similar height, growing at about 20 to 40 centimetres a year. The habit is naturally bushy so it rarely needs corrective pruning. A light trim after the main flowering flush keeps it dense and stops the base opening up over the years.
The main display runs from late autumn through winter and into early spring, roughly May to September, with scattered flowers at other times. That winter timing is the point of the plant, since it fills the gap when most gardens have little colour. Flowering is heavier in an open sunny position than in shade.
Yes. The tubular flowers are shaped for honeyeaters, and eastern spinebills, New Holland honeyeaters and wattlebirds work them steadily through winter when other nectar is scarce. Native bees visit as well. Planting a group of three or more rather than a single specimen makes the patch far more useful to birds.
Both work. Full sun produces the densest growth and the heaviest flowering, while part shade suits it in hot inland gardens and still gives a good display. It is one of the more shade tolerant natives, which is why it is often used under established trees. Avoid heavy shade and wet, poorly drained ground.
Space plants about 70 to 80 centimetres apart for a continuous low informal hedge, given the mature width of 1 to 1.2 metres. For a looser mass planting go out to 1 metre. In borders or as underplanting, single plants set 1 metre or more from their neighbours keep their rounded shape.
Water through the first two summers, then only during extended dry spells. Mulch with a coarse organic mulch and feed once in spring with a native fertiliser low in phosphorus. Trim lightly after the main flowering to keep the shape tight. It has no significant pest problems and dislikes waterlogged soil more than anything else.
Trachelospermum jasminoides 'Balls' is Star Jasmine grown and clipped into a dense evergreen sphere. The small glossy leaves sit tight on a woody framework, holding a clean rounded outline year round. White pinwheel flowers open in spring and carry a strong sweet scent right across a courtyard.
Ball specimens hold at about 1 to 1.5 metres tall and wide with light clipping. Full sun to part shade suits them, in any free draining soil. Growth is slow to moderate at 30 to 50 centimetres a year. They handle coastal exposure, light frost and dry spells once the roots are down.
Repeat them along a driveway, either side of an entry, or in pots on a terrace where a formal shape is wanted straight away. They read as structure in a planting scheme without the height of a hedge, and because the form is already trained, a new garden looks settled from the day it goes in.
About Star Jasmine Balls
They are Trachelospermum jasminoides, the common Star Jasmine, grown and clipped into a dense evergreen sphere on a woody framework. Instead of climbing, the plant is trained into a self supporting rounded shape. The foliage is small, glossy and dark green, and the plant carries scented white flowers through spring.
They hold at roughly 1 to 1.5 metres tall and 1 to 1.5 metres wide. Growth is slow to moderate at 30 to 50 centimetres a year, so a light clip once or twice a year keeps the ball tight at whatever size within that range suits the setting.
Full sun to part shade both work. Full sun gives the densest foliage and the heaviest flowering, while part shade produces slightly softer, more open growth and fewer flowers. Avoid deep shade, where the ball thins out and loses its outline. Morning sun with afternoon protection suits hot inland gardens.
Yes, and pots are one of the main uses. A container 50 to 60 centimetres wide with a quality free draining mix will hold a ball for years. Water more often than you would in the ground, especially in summer, and feed in spring and again in late summer. Refresh the mix every few years.
Yes, the foliage is held year round. The glossy dark green leaves take on a bronze tinge in cold weather and green up again in spring, but the plant never goes bare. That is what makes it useful as permanent structure in a scheme, particularly in winter once perennials have died back.
Flowering runs through spring, roughly September to November, and often carries into early summer in warmer districts. The white pinwheel flowers are small but produced in quantity, and the scent is strong on still evenings. Flowering is heaviest on plants in full sun that were not clipped hard just before bud set.
Clip lightly with hedging shears once after flowering and again in late summer if needed, taking only the new growth to keep the outline crisp. Water deeply in dry weather, mulch the base, and feed in early spring. The sap is milky and can irritate skin, so wear gloves when trimming.
Westringia fruticosa, Coastal Rosemary, is an Australian native evergreen shrub from the headlands and dunes of the east coast. It builds a dense rounded bush of fine grey green leaves held in whorls, with small white to pale lilac flowers. Despite the common name it is not the culinary herb.
Mature plants sit at 1.5 to 2 metres tall and 1.5 to 2 metres wide, growing 30 to 60 centimetres a year, and they clip smaller without complaint. Full sun to part shade and sharp drainage are the requirements. Salt wind, sandy soil, drought and light to moderate frost are all handled.
It is a standard on coastal projects, road verges, council garden beds and exposed banks that need erosion cover. Plant 1 to 1.5 metres apart for an informal screen, or 80 centimetres for a clipped hedge. A single plant fills a 40 to 50 centimetre pot on a courtyard or balcony.
About Coastal Rosemary
Westringia fruticosa is an Australian native evergreen shrub from the headlands and dunes of the east coast. It forms a dense rounded bush of fine grey green leaves held in whorls, with small white to pale lilac flowers. Despite the common name it is not culinary rosemary and is not used in cooking.
Mature plants reach 1.5 to 2 metres tall and 1.5 to 2 metres wide. It clips readily to smaller dimensions and is often maintained at around a metre as a hedge or a low mound. Growth is moderate, roughly 30 to 60 centimetres a year, so it holds a trimmed shape well.
It is one of the best shrubs available for exposed coastal work. It grows naturally on sea cliffs and copes with salt laden wind, sand and reflected heat. It is used constantly on beachfront reserves, dune stabilisation projects and seaside gardens where little else holds a tidy shape.
The main flush is spring and summer, roughly September through February, with scattered flowering at other times of the year in mild districts. The flowers are small, white to pale lilac and sit among the foliage rather than above it. Clipped hedges flower less than plants left to grow informally.
Space plants 80 centimetres apart for a tight formal hedge, or 1 to 1.5 metres apart for a dense informal screen. On banks and batters used for erosion cover, 1 metre in a staggered grid gives full ground coverage within about two growing seasons.
Yes. A pot 40 to 50 centimetres wide suits a single plant for a courtyard, entry or balcony. Use a free draining mix, because the roots will not tolerate sitting wet. Container plants need watering more often than those in the ground, plus a light trim to hold their shape.
Trim lightly two or three times a year, taking the soft new growth and avoiding cuts into bare old wood, which reshoots poorly. Water through the first summer, then only in extended dry spells. On most soils it needs no feeding at all, and it resents heavy watering and poor drainage.
Camellia japonica 'Fran Honeyer' is an evergreen shrub presented here as a clipped topiary ball. Rich pink formal double flowers open from late winter into mid spring above thick glossy dark green leaves. The sphere is built up in the nursery over several years, so the plant arrives as a finished form rather than a starting point.
It performs best in partial shade or morning sun, with protection from hot afternoon exposure. Soil should be free draining, humus rich and slightly acidic. Growth is slow to moderate, which is why the shape holds so well between trims. Light to moderate frost is tolerated once established, and cool to warm temperate districts suit it.
Balls of this kind are used in pairs at an entry, repeated along a path, set into a raised bed or placed as single accents in a lawn. A 40 to 50 centimetre wide pot carries one specimen on a courtyard or balcony. Because the form is already made, a planting reads as complete on the day it goes in.
About Fran Honeyer Camellia
It is an evergreen camellia cultivar with deep pink formal double flowers, trained and clipped into a topiary ball. The species, Camellia japonica, is a long lived shade tolerant shrub from east Asia. In this form the plant is grown for its architecture as much as its flowers, giving a clean geometric shape that stays green all year.
The clipped head sits at roughly 70 to 90 centimetres across, with overall plant height around 1 to 1.3 metres including the base. Regular trimming holds it at that size indefinitely. If left unclipped the plant would eventually revert to a natural shrub of 3 to 4 metres, so ongoing shaping is what keeps the form.
Flowering runs from late winter into mid spring, generally July through October in most southern Australian gardens. Warmer coastal districts start a few weeks earlier and cool highland gardens a little later. The formal double blooms are held well against the dark foliage, and flowering continues over roughly eight to ten weeks rather than in one flush.
Partial shade is the preference, ideally with gentle morning sun and shelter from hot afternoon light. Camellia japonica scorches in strong exposed sun, particularly on a clipped surface where every leaf sits at the outside of the plant. A position under high tree canopy, on an eastern wall, or in a courtyard with reflected light suits it well.
Yes, and containers are one of its most common uses. A pot 40 to 50 centimetres wide holds a single specimen for a courtyard, entry or balcony. Use a premium potted colour or camellia mix, make sure the drainage holes stay clear, and water more often than you would in the ground, since pots dry out quickly in summer.
Yes, once established it handles light to moderate frost, which covers most cool temperate parts of southern Australia. The foliage is unaffected by ordinary winter cold. A severe frost while flowers are open can mark the petals, so in frost prone gardens a position with overhead protection from a wall or canopy keeps the display looking better.
Trim lightly two or three times a year, taking only the new growth, with the main cut straight after flowering ends in spring. Keep the sphere even by working around the plant rather than finishing one side. Feed with a camellia fertiliser after that prune, mulch to hold moisture, and water deeply rather than briefly.
Camellia japonica 'White Nun' is an evergreen shrub presented here as a clipped topiary ball. Large pure white semi-double flowers open from late winter into spring against deep green glossy leaves. The contrast between white flower and dark foliage is the whole point of the cultivar, and the clipped form keeps the display neat and contained.
Partial shade with morning sun gives the best result, since strong afternoon light marks white camellia petals. Soil should be free draining, slightly acidic and rich in organic matter. Growth is slow to moderate at about 20 to 40 centimetres a year. Light to moderate frost is tolerated once established, and cool to warm temperate districts suit it.
Use these balls where a formal note is wanted, flanking a doorway, repeated down a path, set into a courtyard bed or standing in a pot on a shaded terrace. They also work as full stops at either end of a hedge run. Plants shaped in advance let a landscape read as complete from the day of handover.
About White Nun Camellia
It is a white flowering cultivar of the common camellia, grown here as a clipped topiary ball. The blooms are large, semi-double and pure white, opening in late winter and spring over glossy deep green foliage. The plant is evergreen, long lived and slow growing, which is exactly what makes it hold a clipped shape so well.
The 50 centimetre size carries a head of roughly 50 to 60 centimetres across, and the 100 litre size around 70 to 90 centimetres. Both are held at that size with regular trimming. Unclipped and left alone the plant would slowly build to a natural shrub of 3 to 4 metres over many years.
Flowering runs from late winter into spring, generally July through October across southern Australia. Buds open progressively over about two months rather than all at once. White camellia petals bruise more visibly than coloured ones, so a position sheltered from driving rain and harsh sun keeps the flowers looking clean for longer.
Partial shade with morning sun is best. Camellia japonica evolved as an understorey plant and its foliage burns in strong exposed sun, while white flowers in particular discolour quickly under afternoon heat. An eastern aspect, a shaded courtyard, or a position under high open canopy all give good results.
No. Camellias produce a fibrous, relatively shallow root system with no aggressive spreading habit, so they are safe to plant near paving, walls, drainage and service lines. The trade off is that those surface roots dislike competition and dry out quickly, which is why mulch and consistent watering matter more than they would for a deeper rooted shrub.
Yes. A container 40 to 50 centimetres wide suits a single ball for an entry, courtyard or balcony. Use a free draining camellia or azalea potting mix and keep the drainage holes clear. Potted camellias dry out fast in summer and need watering two or three times a week during hot weather.
Trim two or three times a year, taking only soft new growth, with the main shaping done as soon as flowering ends. Never cut back hard into old bare wood, since camellias are slow to reshoot from it. Feed with a camellia fertiliser after that prune, mulch the root zone, and water deeply through summer.
Camellia japonica in its white flowering form is an upright, broad and densely leafed evergreen shrub. Pure white blooms open against deep green glossy foliage through winter and into spring, when most gardens have little else in flower. Plain white against dark leaves is one of the more restrained combinations available in an ornamental planting.
Part shade is the position it wants, ideally morning sun with shelter from hot afternoon light, which discolours white petals. Soil should be well drained, slightly acidic and mulched. Growth is moderate, reaching a spread of 1.5 to 2.5 metres and a height of roughly 2 to 4 metres. Light to moderate frost is handled once established.
This one is used for screening a fence, filling an understorey, forming a soft informal hedge or standing as a single feature in a shaded courtyard. A pot 40 to 50 centimetres wide holds one plant near an entry. Feature plantings sit 3 to 4 metres apart so each shrub has room to develop its full form.
About White Flowering Camellia
It is Camellia japonica, the common camellia, in a white flowered selection. The plant is an evergreen shrub with broad upright growth and thick glossy dark green leaves, carrying pure white blooms through winter and spring. It is not an Australian native, but it has been grown in Australian gardens since the nineteenth century.
It spreads to 1.5 to 2.5 metres wide and reaches roughly 2 to 4 metres in height depending on age and position. Growth is moderate rather than fast. Pruning straight after flowering keeps it to whatever dimensions the space allows, and the plant tolerates being held well under its natural size for decades.
Cool to temperate districts suit it best, including Melbourne, Hobart, Canberra, Sydney, Adelaide, Perth and the tablelands and coastal belts nearby. It also performs in the cooler ranges of south east Queensland. Hot dry inland areas and the humid tropics are the two climates where it consistently struggles without significant intervention.
Fully evergreen. The dense glossy foliage stays on the plant all year, dropping old leaves gradually rather than in a seasonal flush. That makes it a dependable screening and structure plant, and it is one of the few evergreens that also carries a substantial flowering display in the middle of winter.
Yes, though it makes a soft informal hedge rather than a crisp architectural one, and its moderate growth rate means patience. Space plants around 1 to 1.5 metres apart along the line. Trim lightly after flowering each year, taking new growth only. For a formal clipped result, a small leafed sasanqua camellia is the easier choice.
Camellia japonica is listed as non toxic to dogs, cats and horses, and it is not regarded as a poisoning risk to children. There are no spines or irritant sap to worry about. As with any garden plant, discourage children and animals from chewing the foliage, but nothing about this species calls for special precautions.
Water deeply through the first two summers and continue through autumn while flower buds are setting. Mulch over the shallow root system, kept clear of the trunk. Feed with a camellia or azalea fertiliser after flowering ends, and never lime the soil. Prune lightly in spring, thinning crowded branches rather than shearing the surface.
Camellia sasanqua 'Pure Silk' is an elegant evergreen shrub grown for its pure white semi-double blooms, which stand out beautifully against glossy dark green foliage. Flowering from autumn into early winter, it brings serene seasonal colour to the garden in the cooler months.
Pure Silk grows to 2-3 metres tall and 1.5-2 metres wide with an upright, slightly spreading habit. The size and dense growth make it ideal for hedging, screening, containers, and feature planting, and it can also be espaliered against walls and fences. Sasanqua camellias tolerate more sun than other camellia types.
Pure Silk thrives in part shade to full sun and prefers well-drained, moist, slightly acidic soil. It is evergreen, holding glossy foliage year-round, and is low maintenance, needing only light pruning and mulching to keep it healthy and in shape.
About Camellia sasanqua 'Pure Silk'
Camellia sasanqua 'Pure Silk' grows to 2-3 metres tall and 1.5-2 metres wide, and can be maintained smaller with pruning.
'Pure Silk' has a moderate growth rate of 20-40cm per year once established.
'Pure Silk' produces masses of soft white flowers through autumn and into winter, providing colour when little else is flowering.
Yes. Camellia sasanqua 'Pure Silk' makes an excellent flowering hedge or screen and responds well to pruning. It can also be espaliered against walls and fences.
Yes. 'Pure Silk' is fully evergreen, holding glossy dark green foliage year-round.
Plant 60-80cm apart for a dense flowering hedge, or 1 metre for a more relaxed screen.
'Pure Silk' thrives across most Australian climates in part shade to full sun, preferring well-drained, slightly acidic soil. Sasanqua camellias tolerate more sun than other camellia types.
1000 in stock
Camellia japonica 'White Nun' is an evergreen shrub presented here as a clipped topiary ball. Large pure white semi-double flowers open from late winter into spring against deep green glossy leaves. The contrast between white flower and dark foliage is the whole point of the cultivar, and the clipped form keeps the display neat and contained.
Partial shade with morning sun gives the best result, since strong afternoon light marks white camellia petals. Soil should be free draining, slightly acidic and rich in organic matter. Growth is slow to moderate at about 20 to 40 centimetres a year. Light to moderate frost is tolerated once established, and cool to warm temperate districts suit it.
Use these balls where a formal note is wanted, flanking a doorway, repeated down a path, set into a courtyard bed or standing in a pot on a shaded terrace. They also work as full stops at either end of a hedge run. Plants shaped in advance let a landscape read as complete from the day of handover.
About White Nun Camellia
It is a white flowering cultivar of the common camellia, grown here as a clipped topiary ball. The blooms are large, semi-double and pure white, opening in late winter and spring over glossy deep green foliage. The plant is evergreen, long lived and slow growing, which is exactly what makes it hold a clipped shape so well.
The 50 centimetre size carries a head of roughly 50 to 60 centimetres across, and the 100 litre size around 70 to 90 centimetres. Both are held at that size with regular trimming. Unclipped and left alone the plant would slowly build to a natural shrub of 3 to 4 metres over many years.
Flowering runs from late winter into spring, generally July through October across southern Australia. Buds open progressively over about two months rather than all at once. White camellia petals bruise more visibly than coloured ones, so a position sheltered from driving rain and harsh sun keeps the flowers looking clean for longer.
Partial shade with morning sun is best. Camellia japonica evolved as an understorey plant and its foliage burns in strong exposed sun, while white flowers in particular discolour quickly under afternoon heat. An eastern aspect, a shaded courtyard, or a position under high open canopy all give good results.
No. Camellias produce a fibrous, relatively shallow root system with no aggressive spreading habit, so they are safe to plant near paving, walls, drainage and service lines. The trade off is that those surface roots dislike competition and dry out quickly, which is why mulch and consistent watering matter more than they would for a deeper rooted shrub.
Yes. A container 40 to 50 centimetres wide suits a single ball for an entry, courtyard or balcony. Use a free draining camellia or azalea potting mix and keep the drainage holes clear. Potted camellias dry out fast in summer and need watering two or three times a week during hot weather.
Trim two or three times a year, taking only soft new growth, with the main shaping done as soon as flowering ends. Never cut back hard into old bare wood, since camellias are slow to reshoot from it. Feed with a camellia fertiliser after that prune, mulch the root zone, and water deeply through summer.
