Most loved for its sweeping pendulous branches, lush green foliage, and dramatic presence beside water or as a landscape feature.
Approximate only. Minimum height important? Confirm with us.
Height guide & disclaimer
Height guide disclaimer: Height ranges are approximate only. As living products, plant heights naturally vary between individual plants, batches, and seasons. No guarantee is given that supplied plants will fall within the stated range. If minimum heights are required, you must confirm current batch heights with Evergreen Trees Direct prior to purchase. Variation in height is normal and is not grounds for return, refund, replacement, or compensation.
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Salix babylonica, the Weeping Willow, is a fast growing deciduous tree with a broad domed crown and long pendulous branchlets that sweep almost to the ground. The narrow linear leaves are soft green through the warmer months, turn butter yellow and fall, leaving a fine curtain of golden stems over winter.
It wants full sun and consistently moist ground, and does best beside dams, creeks and lake edges where the roots can find permanent water. Growth runs to roughly 1 to 2 metres a year. Fully frost hardy, it suits cool and warm temperate districts but sulks in prolonged dry soil.
Plant it in parks, on rural properties and in large open gardens where a canopy 8 to 10 metres across is an asset rather than a problem. Keep it well clear of paving, drains and septic lines. Given the space it asks for, little else delivers shade and presence so quickly.
About Weeping Willow
Salix babylonica is a large deciduous tree from the willow family, grown for its arching frame and long trailing branchlets. The fine linear foliage moves with any breeze, which is where much of its appeal comes from. It is not an Australian native, and it has been planted here for well over a century in parks and beside water.
Expect 10 to 15 metres in height with a spread of 8 to 10 metres in open ground with reliable moisture. The canopy is broad and domed rather than upright, so width matters as much as height when you are siting it. Plants in drier positions or restricted soil volumes will sit at the lower end of that range.
Around 1 to 2 metres a year once established, which makes it one of the quickest shade trees available. That speed depends on water. In moist soil with full sun it romps away, and a young tree can look settled within three or four seasons. On dry sites growth slows noticeably and the canopy stays thinner.
Deciduous. The leaves yellow and drop through the colder months, leaving the bare weeping framework visible, which many people consider the tree at its most graceful. New growth breaks early in spring, often before other deciduous trees. Plan for leaf litter in autumn if the tree overhangs a pond or a lawn you like to keep clean.
Yes. Willow roots are vigorous and water seeking, so they will find drains, septic systems and irrigation lines if those are close by. Keep the tree at least 10 to 15 metres from buildings, paving and services. In parkland and beside farm dams this is rarely a concern, though it is worth avoiding natural creek lines where willows can spread.
Cool and warm temperate regions suit it best, so Victoria, Tasmania, the ACT, inland and coastal New South Wales, the Adelaide Hills and southern Western Australia. It handles cold winters without trouble. In hot dry inland areas it will still grow well provided irrigation is reliable. Humid tropical zones are less suitable.
Water deeply and often for the first two summers, then rely on natural moisture if the tree sits near water. Mulch the root zone and keep grass off the trunk. Prune in late winter to lift the skirt and remove crossing or damaged limbs. Willows shed small branches, so an annual tidy keeps the frame strong and the shape balanced.
| Pot / bag size | Width | Depth |
|---|---|---|
| 30cm Pot | 33cm | 30cm |
| 40cm/45L Pot | 44cm | 41.5cm |
| 50cm Pot / 70L Pot | 55cm | 41.8cm |
| 100L Bag | 50.6cm | 52.8cm |
| 150L Bag | 66cm | 55cm |
| 200L Bag | 71.5cm | 60.5cm |
| 300L Bag | 88cm | 63.8cm |
| 400L Bag | 99cm | 66cm |
| 500L Bag | 122cm | 66cm |
| 750L Bag | 134cm | 69cm |
| 1000L Bag | 146.3cm | 71.5cm |
| 2000L Bag | 176cm | 82.5cm |
General planting reference from our existing size guide. Actual containers can vary by supplier and batch; confirm exact dimensions if required.
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Salix babylonica, the Weeping Willow, is a fast growing deciduous tree with a broad domed crown and long pendulous branchlets that sweep almost to the ground. The narrow linear leaves are soft green through the warmer months, turn butter yellow and fall, leaving a fine curtain of golden stems over winter.
It wants full sun and consistently moist ground, and does best beside dams, creeks and lake edges where the roots can find permanent water. Growth runs to roughly 1 to 2 metres a year. Fully frost hardy, it suits cool and warm temperate districts but sulks in prolonged dry soil.
Plant it in parks, on rural properties and in large open gardens where a canopy 8 to 10 metres across is an asset rather than a problem. Keep it well clear of paving, drains and septic lines. Given the space it asks for, little else delivers shade and presence so quickly.
About Weeping Willow
Salix babylonica is a large deciduous tree from the willow family, grown for its arching frame and long trailing branchlets. The fine linear foliage moves with any breeze, which is where much of its appeal comes from. It is not an Australian native, and it has been planted here for well over a century in parks and beside water.
Expect 10 to 15 metres in height with a spread of 8 to 10 metres in open ground with reliable moisture. The canopy is broad and domed rather than upright, so width matters as much as height when you are siting it. Plants in drier positions or restricted soil volumes will sit at the lower end of that range.
Around 1 to 2 metres a year once established, which makes it one of the quickest shade trees available. That speed depends on water. In moist soil with full sun it romps away, and a young tree can look settled within three or four seasons. On dry sites growth slows noticeably and the canopy stays thinner.
Deciduous. The leaves yellow and drop through the colder months, leaving the bare weeping framework visible, which many people consider the tree at its most graceful. New growth breaks early in spring, often before other deciduous trees. Plan for leaf litter in autumn if the tree overhangs a pond or a lawn you like to keep clean.
Yes. Willow roots are vigorous and water seeking, so they will find drains, septic systems and irrigation lines if those are close by. Keep the tree at least 10 to 15 metres from buildings, paving and services. In parkland and beside farm dams this is rarely a concern, though it is worth avoiding natural creek lines where willows can spread.
Cool and warm temperate regions suit it best, so Victoria, Tasmania, the ACT, inland and coastal New South Wales, the Adelaide Hills and southern Western Australia. It handles cold winters without trouble. In hot dry inland areas it will still grow well provided irrigation is reliable. Humid tropical zones are less suitable.
Water deeply and often for the first two summers, then rely on natural moisture if the tree sits near water. Mulch the root zone and keep grass off the trunk. Prune in late winter to lift the skirt and remove crossing or damaged limbs. Willows shed small branches, so an annual tidy keeps the frame strong and the shape balanced.
Deciduous (Defoliates throughout colder months)
Salix babylonica - Weeping Willow is expected to grow 1m to 2m per year (fast) (approx.).
Salix babylonica - Weeping Willow works in an:
Salix babylonica - Weeping Willow is an Deciduous (Defoliates throughout colder months) Tree
Mature Height: 10m to 15m (approx.)
Mature Width: 8m to 10m
Salix babylonica - Weeping Willow is expected to grow 1m to 2m per year (fast) (approx.).
Salix babylonica - Weeping Willow is expected to grow 1m to 2m per year (fast) (approx.).
They are considered to have a:
Is Salix babylonica - Weeping Willow frost tolerant?
Salix babylonica - Weeping Willow is Frost Hardy – Survives heavy and frequent frost without damage.
Salix babylonica produces slender, yellow-green catkins in early spring before the foliage emerges. While not showy, these flowers are valuable for early pollinators and contribute to the tree’s graceful seasonal cycle, which is defined more by its cascading habit and fresh spring foliage than by its blooms.
Does Salix babylonica - Weeping Willow flower?
Flowering Period:
Flower Type:
Flower Colour:
Not Applicable
No
Salix babylonica - Weeping Willow is Native to Native to northern China, where it grows along rivers and wetlands. Now cultivated worldwide as one of the most iconic weeping trees.
Its broad, cascading canopy provides excellent shelter for small birds, while its early-season catkins offer an important pollen source for bees and other beneficial insects when few other trees are flowering. The tree’s dense structure and moisture-seeking roots also help support a diverse range of fauna in riparian and garden environments.
Salix babylonica - Weeping Willow will thrive best in:
Salix babylonica performs best in moist loam or sandy loam soils with an acidic to neutral pH. It will tolerate heavier clay soils provided there is reliable moisture, making it well suited to dam edges, creek banks and wet areas of the garden. Avoid excessively dry, shallow or compacted soils unless supplemental watering is available, as these conditions can limit growth. Keep the soil consistently moist during establishment, then maintain regular watering as the tree matures for optimal health and vigour.
Is Salix babylonica - Weeping Willow Drought tolerant?
As a young tree it requires regular deep watering to establish properly. Once established, Weeping Willows develop moderate drought tolerance but perform best with consistent soil moisture, particularly in hot or exposed positions. They will survive dry spells but thrive when their moisture needs are met, maintaining dense foliage and strong seasonal growth.
Enquire for current heights
Enquire for current heights
Heights are approximate and vary between individual trees.
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Enriched Planting Mix is a certified organic blend of Pure Magic Compost, composted animal manure, gypsum, composted coarse bark and a wetting agent, bagged in 30L. It is built to be dug through existing garden soil at planting time rather than used on its own, and the gypsum is what sets it apart from a plain compost.
Gypsum helps break up heavy clay so water and roots can move through it, while the compost and manure return organic matter and nutrient to tired ground. The coarse bark holds structure and keeps air around the root zone, and the wetting agent keeps moisture in the soil longer after rain or watering.
Use it when planting trees, shrubs, roses, fruit trees and exotic garden plants, particularly into clay. Dig a hole twice the width of the pot and 7 centimetres deeper, then mix roughly one third planting mix through the excavated soil. Spread 7 centimetres of that improved soil in the base before setting the plant in.
About Enriched Planting Mix
It is a blend of Pure Magic Compost, composted animal manure, gypsum, composted coarse bark and a wetting agent. Each part has a job. The compost and manure supply organic matter and nutrient, the gypsum works on clay structure, the bark keeps air around the roots and the wetting agent holds moisture in the soil.
It suits exotic garden plants, including roses, ornamental and deciduous trees, fruit trees, shrubs and perennials, and it earns its keep most on heavy clay sites. It is a planting mix rather than a potting mix, so its job is improving soil at planting time. Phosphorus sensitive natives are the one clear exception.
No, not for the phosphorus sensitive ones. The composted animal manure in this blend lifts phosphorus well above what Proteaceae such as Banksia, Grevillea, Hakea and Protea will tolerate, and the result can be leaf burn, dieback and plant death. Use the Native Potting Mix for those species, or plant them into unimproved local soil.
Yes. It is a certified organic product with no chemical additives, which is why the manure and compost in it are fully composted rather than raw. That makes it sound around fruit trees and vegetable beds, and it means you are adding genuine organic matter to your soil rather than a synthetic conditioner.
Work on roughly one third planting mix to two thirds of the soil you dug out of the hole. For a shrub out of a 200 millimetre pot that is only a few litres. An advanced tree going into a large hole will take considerably more. Judge the quantity by the volume of the hole rather than the size of the plant.
It is not a potting mix and should not be used on its own in a container. The blend is designed to be diluted through garden soil, and used straight in a pot it holds too much water and settles badly. For containers, reach for a premium potting mix, or the native mix if you are potting natives.
Yes. Water the plant well several hours before you plant it, then water thoroughly again once the hole is backfilled and the soil firmed down. That first deep watering settles the improved soil around the root ball and drives out air pockets. Keep the water up over the first few months while the roots establish.
Enriched Planting Mix is a certified organic blend of Pure Magic Compost, composted animal manure, gypsum, composted coarse bark and a wetting agent, bagged in 30L. It is built to be dug through existing garden soil at planting time rather than used on its own, and the gypsum is what sets it apart from a plain compost.
Gypsum helps break up heavy clay so water and roots can move through it, while the compost and manure return organic matter and nutrient to tired ground. The coarse bark holds structure and keeps air around the root zone, and the wetting agent keeps moisture in the soil longer after rain or watering.
Use it when planting trees, shrubs, roses, fruit trees and exotic garden plants, particularly into clay. Dig a hole twice the width of the pot and 7 centimetres deeper, then mix roughly one third planting mix through the excavated soil. Spread 7 centimetres of that improved soil in the base before setting the plant in.
About Enriched Planting Mix
It is a blend of Pure Magic Compost, composted animal manure, gypsum, composted coarse bark and a wetting agent. Each part has a job. The compost and manure supply organic matter and nutrient, the gypsum works on clay structure, the bark keeps air around the roots and the wetting agent holds moisture in the soil.
It suits exotic garden plants, including roses, ornamental and deciduous trees, fruit trees, shrubs and perennials, and it earns its keep most on heavy clay sites. It is a planting mix rather than a potting mix, so its job is improving soil at planting time. Phosphorus sensitive natives are the one clear exception.
No, not for the phosphorus sensitive ones. The composted animal manure in this blend lifts phosphorus well above what Proteaceae such as Banksia, Grevillea, Hakea and Protea will tolerate, and the result can be leaf burn, dieback and plant death. Use the Native Potting Mix for those species, or plant them into unimproved local soil.
Yes. It is a certified organic product with no chemical additives, which is why the manure and compost in it are fully composted rather than raw. That makes it sound around fruit trees and vegetable beds, and it means you are adding genuine organic matter to your soil rather than a synthetic conditioner.
Work on roughly one third planting mix to two thirds of the soil you dug out of the hole. For a shrub out of a 200 millimetre pot that is only a few litres. An advanced tree going into a large hole will take considerably more. Judge the quantity by the volume of the hole rather than the size of the plant.
It is not a potting mix and should not be used on its own in a container. The blend is designed to be diluted through garden soil, and used straight in a pot it holds too much water and settles badly. For containers, reach for a premium potting mix, or the native mix if you are potting natives.
Yes. Water the plant well several hours before you plant it, then water thoroughly again once the hole is backfilled and the soil firmed down. That first deep watering settles the improved soil around the root ball and drives out air pockets. Keep the water up over the first few months while the roots establish.
Ligularia reniformis carries enormous glossy kidney-shaped leaves that give a shaded garden the bold tropical texture usually only available in full sun. The Tractor Seat Plant is grown for foliage first, with tall stems of bright yellow daisy flowers through summer as a bonus.
Ligularia reniformis forms a clump 0.6 to 1 metre tall and 1 to 1.5 metres wide, spreading slowly at 10 to 20 centimetres per year. That steady habit makes it reliable as a mass underplanting beneath established trees, an edging along a shaded path, or a single specimen in a large pot.
This is a full shade plant. It wants consistent moisture and protection from hot afternoon sun, which scorches the leaves, and it is frost sensitive, so in cold districts it needs a protected position. Given shade and water it is close to maintenance free.
About Ligularia reniformis
It forms a clump 0.6 to 1 metre tall and 1 to 1.5 metres wide. The individual leaves can reach 40 centimetres across, which is where the bold texture comes from.
The common name comes from the large round kidney-shaped leaves, which resemble the seat of an old tractor. The botanical name reniformis means kidney-shaped.
Yes. It performs best in full shade and will scorch in hot afternoon sun. It is one of the most useful foliage plants available for genuinely dark positions.
Tall stems of bright yellow daisy-like flowers rise well above the foliage through summer. The foliage remains the main feature for the rest of the year.
No. It is frost sensitive and may be damaged by frost. In cold districts plant it in a protected position, or grow it in a pot that can be moved under cover.
It wants consistently moist soil and does not tolerate drying out. Mulch well and water regularly through summer, particularly in pots and under established trees where roots compete.
Plant 0.8 to 1 metre apart for a continuous shaded groundcover mass. Closer spacing fills in faster but the clumps will crowd within a few seasons.
Buxus sempervirens English Box Topiary Balls are pre-clipped formal evergreen specimens, available in three mature sizes and ready to place. The tight, fine, dark green foliage holds a precise rounded form year-round and gives the classic formal topiary look that no other Buxus replicates. As one of our most consistently strong-selling products, our English Box topiary balls are well-shaped, well-rooted, and arrive in proportion to the pot size.
English Box performs best in cool to temperate climates and is slow growing at around 15 to 25 cm per year in good conditions, which is exactly why it holds sharp formal shapes so well. It thrives in full sun to part shade with well-drained, slightly acidic to neutral loamy soil, and is frost hardy, drought tolerant once established, and excellent in containers. Two light clips per year, in spring and again in late summer, keep the ball form crisp.
Use them flanking entrances, lining formal pathways, anchoring symmetrical garden beds, defining parterre and knot gardens, and in pairs in classic urns and decorative pots at front doors. Buxus sempervirens is the original topiary plant and remains the benchmark for traditional and contemporary formal design, with a level of finesse and density that fast-growing alternatives cannot replicate.
About Buxus sempervirens English Box Topiary Balls
Our English Box topiary balls arrive pre-clipped and ready to place at the size you order. The 30cm/33cm pots have ball diameters of approximately 30 to 45 cm, the 40cm/45L pots have ball diameters of 40 to 55 cm, and the 50cm/75L pots have ball diameters of 50 to 70 cm. They are well-rooted and in proportion to the pot.
English Box is slow-growing, adding approximately 15 to 25 cm per year once established in good conditions. This slow growth rate is one of the reasons it holds sharp formal shapes so well, and why mature pre-clipped specimens command a premium over seedling-grown stock.
English Box (Buxus sempervirens) has the smallest, finest leaves and the tightest formal texture, ideal for traditional parterres and clipped balls. Japanese Box (Buxus microphylla japonica) has slightly larger leaves, grows faster, and handles heat better. Shaggy Box (Buxus bodinieri) has soft, rounded leaves, much better blight resistance, and is the best choice for humid subtropical climates where English Box can struggle.
English Box performs best in cool to temperate regions including Victoria, the ACT, the NSW Southern Highlands and Central Tablelands, Tasmania, and the elevated parts of South Australia and Western Australia. In humid coastal or hot subtropical regions, consider Buxus bodinieri Shaggy Box or Japanese Box instead for better long-term performance.
Lightly clip in spring and again in late summer or early autumn to maintain the ball shape. Avoid pruning in the heat of summer or during frost periods. Use sharp shears for the cleanest formal finish, and step back regularly to check the symmetry of the form.
Yes. English Box is the classic potted topiary plant and pre-clipped balls look particularly striking in pairs at entrances and on terraces. Use a minimum 30L pot for the 30cm/33cm size and scale up from there, with a quality potting mix and a slow-release fertiliser applied twice yearly.
English Box can be affected by box blight, particularly in humid conditions where foliage stays wet. To reduce risk, ensure good air circulation around each plant, avoid overhead watering, and prune to maintain airflow through the canopy. In high-humidity regions, Buxus bodinieri Shaggy Box is a more disease-resistant alternative.
Pittosporum tenuifolium 'Silver Sheen' carries small shimmering silver-green leaves on near-black stems, giving a light airy screen that moves in the wind rather than reading as a solid green wall. It is one of the most widely specified screening plants in Australian landscape design for exactly that reason.
'Silver Sheen' grows to 4 to 6 metres tall but only 1.5 to 2 metres wide at 30 to 60 centimetres per year, which makes it a genuine solution for narrow beds along fence lines and between buildings where height is needed but width is not available. Small cream flowers appear in spring and are lightly fragrant.
'Silver Sheen' grows in full sun to part shade and tolerates light to moderate frost once established, performing from subtropical Queensland through Sydney, Melbourne, Gippsland and Adelaide. It clips well, holds density under regular trimming, and is equally effective as a formal hedge or a loose screen.
About Pittosporum tenuifolium 'Silver Sheen'
'Silver Sheen' grows to 4 to 6 metres tall and only 1.5 to 2 metres wide, which makes it one of the best options for narrow screening where a tall hedge is needed in a shallow bed.
It grows at 30 to 60 centimetres per year once established, reaching a usable screening height within three to four years with regular water and feeding.
It naturally holds to 1.5 to 2 metres wide and can be trimmed to under a metre with regular clipping, which is why it is so often used in tight side-boundary positions.
Plant 1 to 1.5 metres apart for a dense informal screen, or 80 centimetres apart for a tighter formal hedge. Closer spacing fills in faster but needs more trimming.
'Silver Sheen' handles light to moderate frost once established. Young plants benefit from protection through their first winter in colder inland districts.
Yes. It performs in full sun through to part shade. In shadier positions growth is slightly more open, which suits a softer informal screen.
It performs from subtropical Queensland through Northern NSW, Sydney, the South Coast and tablelands, Melbourne and surrounds, the Western District, Gippsland and Adelaide.
Melaleuca nesophila, the Showy Honey Myrtle, is an evergreen Australian native shrub to small tree from the south coast of Western Australia. Fine grey green foliage sits on a dense rounded frame over papery bark, and mauve to pink pom pom flowers cover the outer growth through spring and summer.
Mature width is 2 to 4 metres, with height usually settling around 3 to 5 metres, and growth of 30 to 60 centimetres a year. It wants full sun and takes sand, limestone, gravel and moderately heavy soils. Salt wind, drought and light to moderate frost are all handled once the roots are down.
This is a screening and hedging plant first, used along boundaries, on coastal blocks and through council road reserves where conditions are hard and maintenance budgets are thin. Space it at 1 to 1.5 metres for an informal screen. It gives colour, density and habitat value from one low input plant.
About Showy Honey Myrtle
Melaleuca nesophila, or Showy Honey Myrtle, is an evergreen Australian native shrub to small tree from southern Western Australia. It has fine grey green foliage, a dense rounded habit and soft papery bark, and carries mauve to pink pom pom flowers through spring and summer that age to a soft grey.
It spreads 2 to 4 metres wide and generally reaches 3 to 5 metres tall in a garden, though regular trimming will hold it lower. Growth is moderate to fast at around 30 to 60 centimetres a year, so a screen planted from advanced stock closes over within three or four seasons.
For a dense informal screen, plant 1 to 1.5 metres apart. For a tighter formal hedge, bring that in to 80 centimetres. As a feature tree, allow 3 to 4 metres so the full canopy and form can develop, or 3 metres apart along an avenue for a uniform, soft textured line.
Yes, it is one of the better coastal Melaleucas. It tolerates salt laden wind, sandy and limestone soils, and exposed front line positions once established, which is why it is planted so widely along the southern coastline. In very exposed sites it will lean with the prevailing wind, and most people like the result.
The main flush runs through spring and into summer, roughly September to January. Flowers open mauve to purple pink in dense rounded heads across the outer foliage, then age to grey and stay on the plant. Bees and honeyeaters work it heavily while it is out, so expect plenty of activity.
It handles light to moderate frost once established, which covers most coastal and near coastal parts of southern Australia. Young plants are more vulnerable in their first winter, so plant in autumn or early spring and keep them out of low frost hollows. Hard, repeated inland frost will burn new growth.
Tip prune after flowering to keep it dense and stop the base going bare. It takes a hard cut back if it becomes leggy, though remove no more than about a third at a time. Water through the first summer, then it is largely self sufficient. Use a low phosphorus native fertiliser in spring on poor soils.
Grevillea x 'Moonlight' carries very large creamy-white toothbrush flower spikes almost continuously through the year, each one up to 20 centimetres long and heavily worked by honeyeaters. Few native shrubs flower this hard for this long.
'Moonlight' grows to 4 to 6 metres tall but only around 2 metres wide at 20 to 40 centimetres per year, giving a tall narrow frame clothed in fine silver-green divided foliage. That upright habit suits narrow garden beds, screening along a fence line, or a single feature in a large pot.
This Australian native grows in full sun to part shade, tolerates light to moderate frost once established, and is highly drought tolerant. It needs free-draining soil and low-phosphorus feeding, and rewards a light prune after each main flowering flush with denser growth.
About Grevillea 'Moonlight'
'Moonlight' grows to 4 to 6 metres tall and only around 2 metres wide, giving an unusually tall narrow form for a grevillea. It suits narrow beds and screening positions.
'Moonlight' flowers close to year round, with the heaviest flushes in spring and autumn. The large creamy-white toothbrush spikes can reach 20 centimetres long.
Yes. The nectar-rich flowers are a magnet for honeyeaters and other nectar-feeding birds, and the dense fine foliage provides shelter for smaller species.
It grows at a moderate 20 to 40 centimetres per year, reaching a usable screening height within four to five years in a warm free-draining position.
It requires free-draining soil and will not tolerate waterlogging. Use only low-phosphorus native fertiliser, as grevilleas and other Proteaceae are damaged by high-phosphorus formulations.
Yes. Once established it is highly drought tolerant and needs only occasional deep watering through extended dry spells.
Yes. A light prune after each main flowering flush keeps the plant dense and prevents it becoming leggy at the base. Avoid cutting back hard into bare old wood.
Correa alba, the White Correa, is a compact evergreen Australian native grown for soft felted grey-green leaves and small white star flowers. The flowers come through autumn and winter, when little else is out.
It forms a dense rounded shrub 1 to 2 metres tall and wide. That habit suits low informal hedges, borders, mass planting and underplanting beneath taller trees, and it takes clipping well enough to hold a formal shape.
It is one of the most salt tolerant shrubs in the trade, growing wild on exposed headlands and dunes from New South Wales through Victoria, Tasmania and South Australia. Salt wind, sand and poor soil are its normal conditions. Add drought and light frost tolerance and it is the obvious choice for a beachfront garden where Buxus and Lilly Pilly burn.
We carry it in two forms. The natural form is supplied unshaped, for hedging, borders and mass planting. The Ball Form is the same plant clipped into a formal sphere over several seasons and arrives finished. Salt tolerant formal topiary is rare, so a native ball does what Buxus cannot in a coastal garden, and two light clips a year hold the shape.
About Correa alba White Correa
1 to 2 metres tall and wide as a natural rounded shrub, putting on 30 to 60 centimetres a year. A clipped ball stays at whatever size you trim it to, usually held between 50 and 80 centimetres across.
Same plant, different training. The natural form is supplied unshaped, for a hedge, border, mass planting or an informal rounded shrub. The Ball Form is grown on and clipped over several seasons into a formal sphere, and arrives finished rather than as something you shape yourself.
Salt and drought. Buxus wants moisture and shelter and burns in exposed coastal positions. Correa alba comes off the headlands and handles salt wind, sand and dry spells. The foliage is grey-green rather than dark glossy green, and it flowers, which Buxus does not usefully.
Small white star flowers appear from autumn through winter into spring, heaviest over the cooler months. That timing feeds honeyeaters and native bees when little else is in bloom. On clipped balls, trim after the main flush so you do not remove the display.
It is among the most salt tolerant native shrubs available and grows naturally on exposed cliffs and dunes. Sandy free draining soil and salt spray are its normal conditions. Drainage matters far more to it than soil richness.
60 to 80 centimetres apart for a low informal hedge, or 1 metre apart for mass planting where each plant keeps its own rounded shape. Balls repeated down a path sit well at 1 to 1.5 metres apart.
Yes, and the Ball Form in a container suits an entrance, courtyard or balcony. Use a pot at least 40 centimetres across with a free draining mix, and never let it stand in a saucer of water.
Water through the first two summers, then only in prolonged dry spells. Feed once in spring with a low phosphorus native fertiliser, as correas belong to the citrus family and resent high phosphorus blends. Trim lightly after flowering for a natural shrub, or twice a year taking only soft new growth to hold a ball.
Trachelospermum jasminoides 'Balls' is Star Jasmine grown and clipped into a dense evergreen sphere. The small glossy leaves sit tight on a woody framework, holding a clean rounded outline year round. White pinwheel flowers open in spring and carry a strong sweet scent right across a courtyard.
Ball specimens hold at about 1 to 1.5 metres tall and wide with light clipping. Full sun to part shade suits them, in any free draining soil. Growth is slow to moderate at 30 to 50 centimetres a year. They handle coastal exposure, light frost and dry spells once the roots are down.
Repeat them along a driveway, either side of an entry, or in pots on a terrace where a formal shape is wanted straight away. They read as structure in a planting scheme without the height of a hedge, and because the form is already trained, a new garden looks settled from the day it goes in.
About Star Jasmine Balls
They are Trachelospermum jasminoides, the common Star Jasmine, grown and clipped into a dense evergreen sphere on a woody framework. Instead of climbing, the plant is trained into a self supporting rounded shape. The foliage is small, glossy and dark green, and the plant carries scented white flowers through spring.
They hold at roughly 1 to 1.5 metres tall and 1 to 1.5 metres wide. Growth is slow to moderate at 30 to 50 centimetres a year, so a light clip once or twice a year keeps the ball tight at whatever size within that range suits the setting.
Full sun to part shade both work. Full sun gives the densest foliage and the heaviest flowering, while part shade produces slightly softer, more open growth and fewer flowers. Avoid deep shade, where the ball thins out and loses its outline. Morning sun with afternoon protection suits hot inland gardens.
Yes, and pots are one of the main uses. A container 50 to 60 centimetres wide with a quality free draining mix will hold a ball for years. Water more often than you would in the ground, especially in summer, and feed in spring and again in late summer. Refresh the mix every few years.
Yes, the foliage is held year round. The glossy dark green leaves take on a bronze tinge in cold weather and green up again in spring, but the plant never goes bare. That is what makes it useful as permanent structure in a scheme, particularly in winter once perennials have died back.
Flowering runs through spring, roughly September to November, and often carries into early summer in warmer districts. The white pinwheel flowers are small but produced in quantity, and the scent is strong on still evenings. Flowering is heaviest on plants in full sun that were not clipped hard just before bud set.
Clip lightly with hedging shears once after flowering and again in late summer if needed, taking only the new growth to keep the outline crisp. Water deeply in dry weather, mulch the base, and feed in early spring. The sap is milky and can irritate skin, so wear gloves when trimming.
Platanus x acerifolia, the London Plane, is one of the world's great avenue trees, prized for its bold maple-like foliage, mottled bark, and exceptional resilience. The bark flakes away in patches to reveal cream, olive and grey tones, while the broad canopy of large lobed leaves casts dense, generous summer shade.
London Plane grows to 20-30 metres tall and 15-20 metres wide with a canopy that starts pyramidal in youth and matures into a wide rounded crown. The substantial size makes it best suited to large gardens, parks, streetscapes, and grand avenues where it has room to develop its full stature.
London Plane is famous for thriving where other trees fail. It tolerates pollution, compacted soil, heat, and heavy pruning, which is exactly why it is one of the most planted street trees in major cities worldwide. It is fully deciduous, dropping golden-brown foliage in winter to reveal the sculptural branching and mottled bark.
About Platanus x acerifolia London Plane Tree
Platanus x acerifolia grows to 20-30 metres tall and 15-20 metres wide with a broad spreading canopy.
London Plane is fast-growing, adding 1-1.5 metres per year once established.
London Plane is one of the world's most planted street trees thanks to its exceptional tolerance of pollution, compacted soil, heat, and heavy pruning. It is a defining avenue tree in many major cities.
London Plane has highly ornamental mottled bark that flakes away in patches to reveal cream, olive, and grey tones, providing strong year-round visual interest.
Yes. London Plane is fully deciduous. Large maple-like leaves turn golden-brown in autumn before dropping in winter to reveal the sculptural branching and mottled bark.
London Plane is best suited to large gardens, parks, streetscapes, and avenues due to its mature size. It is too large for most small suburban blocks.
Plant 6-10 metres apart for a full canopy avenue, depending on the desired density and the space available.
Acer × freemanii 'Jeffersred', sold as Autumn Blaze, is a fast growing deciduous hybrid maple with a strong central leader, an upright oval crown and clean lobed foliage. Its reputation rests on autumn colour, when the whole canopy turns an even red orange, holding that colour for several weeks before leaf fall.
It wants full sun and deep soil with reliable moisture, and it grows well on clay provided drainage is adequate. Growth is fast at 1 to 1.5 metres a year while young. The tree is fully frost hardy and suits cool and temperate districts, though it needs summer water in hot inland positions.
This is a tree for avenues, streetscapes, large gardens, parks and civic open space, planted where reliable autumn colour and a uniform canopy shape matter. Nurseries and councils favour it because trees come true to form and colour up consistently even in warmer zones. Allow 8 to 10 metres between trees for full canopy.
About Autumn Blaze Maple
Autumn Blaze is a named cultivar of Acer × freemanii, a hybrid between the American Red Maple and Silver Maple. It combines the strong branch structure and brilliant autumn colour of Red Maple with the vigour and adaptability of Silver Maple. It is a deciduous shade and avenue tree, propagated vegetatively so every tree performs alike.
At maturity it reaches 12 to 20 metres tall and 9 to 12 metres wide, forming a broad upright oval crown. It is a large tree and needs to be sited accordingly, well clear of buildings, overhead services and small courtyards. Given room and good soil it reaches usable canopy size within about eight years.
Growth is fast, around 1 to 1.5 metres a year while the tree is young and well watered, which is why it is chosen for projects that need canopy quickly. Growth slows as the crown matures. The speed comes with softer wood than a slow grown maple, so early formative pruning is worth the effort.
It is deciduous. The tree drops its leaves through the colder months and leafs out again in spring, which lets winter sun through to buildings and paving beneath it. That seasonal cycle is part of its value in streetscapes and around houses, giving summer shade and winter light from the same tree.
Autumn colour comes through in autumn, generally April into May in southern Australia, with the timing shifting a few weeks depending on the district and the season. The turn is quick and remarkably even across the whole crown, moving from green to red orange. Cool nights ahead of leaf fall produce the strongest colour.
The root system is vigorous and largely shallow, inherited from its Silver Maple parent, so it should not be planted close to paving, drains or building footings. Given 3 to 4 metres of clearance from hard surfaces and a decent soil volume it causes no trouble. Deep, infrequent watering encourages roots down rather than out.
Water deeply through the first three summers, particularly in hot inland districts, and mulch widely to keep the root zone cool. Formative prune in the first few years to hold a single leader and remove narrow, tight forks before they become weak limbs. Stake young trees in exposed sites and remove ties after two seasons.
Liquidambar styraciflua, the Sweetgum, is one of the most spectacular autumn-colour trees available for Australian gardens. The glossy star-shaped foliage holds rich green through summer, then transitions to a brilliant blend of yellow, orange, red and deep burgundy in autumn, often holding colour for several weeks.
Sweetgum grows to 12-20 metres tall and 8-12 metres wide with an upright pyramidal form that broadens with age. The straight trunk, strong branching, and dependable colour make it an excellent shade tree and feature specimen for medium to large gardens, parks, and avenue plantings.
Sweetgum performs best in cool to temperate regions including VIC, NSW, ACT, Tasmania, and elevated parts of SA and WA, where cool autumns produce the strongest colour. It tolerates frost and moderate drought once established. Keep it clear of paving, as the spiky seed pods drop in autumn.
About Liquidambar styraciflua Sweetgum
Liquidambar styraciflua grows to 12-20 metres tall and 8-12 metres wide with an upright pyramidal form that broadens with age.
Sweetgum is moderately fast-growing, adding 60cm to 1 metre per year once established.
Glossy green star-shaped foliage transitions to a spectacular blend of yellow, orange, red and deep burgundy in autumn (April to June across southern Australia), often holding colour for several weeks.
Yes. Sweetgum is fully deciduous, dropping its colourful autumn foliage in winter to reveal a sculptural branching structure.
Sweetgum suits medium to large gardens, parks, and street planting due to its mature size. Allow room for the canopy and keep it clear of paving, as the spiky seed pods drop in autumn.
Sweetgum performs best in cool to temperate regions including VIC, NSW, ACT, Tasmania, and elevated parts of SA and WA, where cool autumns produce the strongest colour.
Plant 5-8 metres apart for a full canopy avenue, or 4 metres for a denser shade screen.
Quercus rubra, the Northern Red Oak, is a fast-growing deciduous oak with a broad symmetrical canopy and strong architectural presence. Its dark green deeply lobed leaves bring rich texture through the growing season, then transform into a spectacular autumn display of maroon, red and golden-brown.
Northern Red Oak grows to 15-25 metres tall and 12-18 metres wide. It establishes faster than most oaks, making it ideal where quick canopy development and shade are wanted in large gardens, parks, and avenue plantings. The straight trunk and neat form also suit formal streetscapes and civic landscapes.
Northern Red Oak performs best in cool to temperate regions including VIC, NSW, ACT, Tasmania, and elevated parts of SA and WA, in full sun with well-drained soil. It tolerates urban conditions, clay soils, and moderate drought once established, and is low maintenance with moderate watering needs.
About Quercus rubra Northern Red Oak
Quercus rubra grows to 15-25 metres tall and 12-18 metres wide with a broad rounded canopy.
Northern Red Oak is one of the faster-growing oaks, adding 50-80cm per year once established.
The large lobed foliage turns rich russet-red and bronze in autumn (April to June across southern Australia) before dropping in winter.
Yes. Northern Red Oak is fully deciduous, dropping its autumn foliage in winter to reveal a strong branching structure.
Northern Red Oak suits large gardens, parks, and avenue planting due to its mature size. Allow plenty of room for the broad canopy to develop.
Northern Red Oak performs best in cool to temperate regions including VIC, NSW, ACT, Tasmania, and elevated parts of SA and WA.
Plant 8-12 metres apart for a full canopy avenue, given the broad mature spread of the tree.
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Salix babylonica, the Weeping Willow, is a fast growing deciduous tree with a broad domed crown and long pendulous branchlets that sweep almost to the ground. The narrow linear leaves are soft green through the warmer months, turn butter yellow and fall, leaving a fine curtain of golden stems over winter.
It wants full sun and consistently moist ground, and does best beside dams, creeks and lake edges where the roots can find permanent water. Growth runs to roughly 1 to 2 metres a year. Fully frost hardy, it suits cool and warm temperate districts but sulks in prolonged dry soil.
Plant it in parks, on rural properties and in large open gardens where a canopy 8 to 10 metres across is an asset rather than a problem. Keep it well clear of paving, drains and septic lines. Given the space it asks for, little else delivers shade and presence so quickly.
About Weeping Willow
Salix babylonica is a large deciduous tree from the willow family, grown for its arching frame and long trailing branchlets. The fine linear foliage moves with any breeze, which is where much of its appeal comes from. It is not an Australian native, and it has been planted here for well over a century in parks and beside water.
Expect 10 to 15 metres in height with a spread of 8 to 10 metres in open ground with reliable moisture. The canopy is broad and domed rather than upright, so width matters as much as height when you are siting it. Plants in drier positions or restricted soil volumes will sit at the lower end of that range.
Around 1 to 2 metres a year once established, which makes it one of the quickest shade trees available. That speed depends on water. In moist soil with full sun it romps away, and a young tree can look settled within three or four seasons. On dry sites growth slows noticeably and the canopy stays thinner.
Deciduous. The leaves yellow and drop through the colder months, leaving the bare weeping framework visible, which many people consider the tree at its most graceful. New growth breaks early in spring, often before other deciduous trees. Plan for leaf litter in autumn if the tree overhangs a pond or a lawn you like to keep clean.
Yes. Willow roots are vigorous and water seeking, so they will find drains, septic systems and irrigation lines if those are close by. Keep the tree at least 10 to 15 metres from buildings, paving and services. In parkland and beside farm dams this is rarely a concern, though it is worth avoiding natural creek lines where willows can spread.
Cool and warm temperate regions suit it best, so Victoria, Tasmania, the ACT, inland and coastal New South Wales, the Adelaide Hills and southern Western Australia. It handles cold winters without trouble. In hot dry inland areas it will still grow well provided irrigation is reliable. Humid tropical zones are less suitable.
Water deeply and often for the first two summers, then rely on natural moisture if the tree sits near water. Mulch the root zone and keep grass off the trunk. Prune in late winter to lift the skirt and remove crossing or damaged limbs. Willows shed small branches, so an annual tidy keeps the frame strong and the shape balanced.
