Most loved for its deeply textured corky bark, glossy evergreen foliage, and its long lifespan, making it both ornamental and functional.
Approximate only. Minimum height important? Confirm with us.
Height guide & disclaimer
Height guide disclaimer: Height ranges are approximate only. As living products, plant heights naturally vary between individual plants, batches, and seasons. No guarantee is given that supplied plants will fall within the stated range. If minimum heights are required, you must confirm current batch heights with Evergreen Trees Direct prior to purchase. Variation in height is normal and is not grounds for return, refund, replacement, or compensation.
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Quercus suber, the Cork Oak, is a broad evergreen tree with a spreading, rounded canopy and small glossy grey-green lobed leaves. Its defining feature is the thick, deeply fissured corky bark, which builds up over decades into a pale, sculptural trunk. Insignificant spring catkins are followed by acorns.
It wants full sun and free-draining soil, and it is at its best in Mediterranean and warm temperate climates through southern Australia. Growth is moderate at roughly 30 to 50 centimetres a year. Established trees handle drought, poor soil and moderate frost, and ask for very little attention.
Cork Oak suits rural properties, estate driveways, parks and large gardens where year round shade matters more than autumn colour. It carries dry summers without irrigation once settled, so it works well on broadacre sites and low water landscapes. A long lived shade tree that keeps its leaves.
About Cork Oak
Quercus suber is a broad evergreen oak from the western Mediterranean, grown for its thick corky bark and small glossy grey-green lobed leaves. The bark is the same material used for wine corks and builds into a pale, deeply furrowed trunk over many years. It holds its foliage right through winter.
In an open Australian garden or park setting expect 10 to 20 metres in height with a canopy 10 to 15 metres wide. The habit is broad and spreading rather than upright, so allow room for the crown to develop. Trees on dry, exposed sites will sit at the lower end of that range.
Growth is moderate, roughly 30 to 50 centimetres a year once the tree is established. It is not a quick screening tree, and it puts as much effort into trunk and bark development as it does into height. Good soil preparation and deep watering through the first two summers make a noticeable difference.
Yes. It evolved in hot, dry Mediterranean country on poor stony soil, so an established tree carries a dry summer without irrigation. Deep, infrequent watering during the first couple of years builds the root system that makes this possible. It also handles moderate frost, wind and low fertility soils.
Evergreen. It keeps its grey-green foliage all year and sheds old leaves gradually rather than dropping the lot in autumn, so you get shade in summer and cover in winter without a heavy leaf fall to clean up. That makes it useful near driveways, paths and outdoor living areas.
For a feature tree allow 3 to 4 metres from other trees and structures so the full canopy and form can develop. For avenue planting, 3 metres apart gives a uniform line. Given the mature spread of 10 to 15 metres, keep single specimens well clear of buildings, fences and services.
Very little is needed. Plant in full sun and free-draining soil, water deeply while it establishes, and mulch out to the drip line while keeping mulch off the trunk. Formative pruning in the first few years sets a clean central leader. Leave the corky bark alone, since stripping it damages the tree.
| Pot / bag size | Width | Depth |
|---|---|---|
| 30cm Pot | 33cm | 30cm |
| 40cm/45L Pot | 44cm | 41.5cm |
| 50cm Pot / 70L Pot | 55cm | 41.8cm |
| 100L Bag | 50.6cm | 52.8cm |
| 150L Bag | 66cm | 55cm |
| 200L Bag | 71.5cm | 60.5cm |
| 300L Bag | 88cm | 63.8cm |
| 400L Bag | 99cm | 66cm |
| 500L Bag | 122cm | 66cm |
| 750L Bag | 134cm | 69cm |
| 1000L Bag | 146.3cm | 71.5cm |
| 2000L Bag | 176cm | 82.5cm |
General planting reference from our existing size guide. Actual containers can vary by supplier and batch; confirm exact dimensions if required.
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Quercus suber, the Cork Oak, is a broad evergreen tree with a spreading, rounded canopy and small glossy grey-green lobed leaves. Its defining feature is the thick, deeply fissured corky bark, which builds up over decades into a pale, sculptural trunk. Insignificant spring catkins are followed by acorns.
It wants full sun and free-draining soil, and it is at its best in Mediterranean and warm temperate climates through southern Australia. Growth is moderate at roughly 30 to 50 centimetres a year. Established trees handle drought, poor soil and moderate frost, and ask for very little attention.
Cork Oak suits rural properties, estate driveways, parks and large gardens where year round shade matters more than autumn colour. It carries dry summers without irrigation once settled, so it works well on broadacre sites and low water landscapes. A long lived shade tree that keeps its leaves.
About Cork Oak
Quercus suber is a broad evergreen oak from the western Mediterranean, grown for its thick corky bark and small glossy grey-green lobed leaves. The bark is the same material used for wine corks and builds into a pale, deeply furrowed trunk over many years. It holds its foliage right through winter.
In an open Australian garden or park setting expect 10 to 20 metres in height with a canopy 10 to 15 metres wide. The habit is broad and spreading rather than upright, so allow room for the crown to develop. Trees on dry, exposed sites will sit at the lower end of that range.
Growth is moderate, roughly 30 to 50 centimetres a year once the tree is established. It is not a quick screening tree, and it puts as much effort into trunk and bark development as it does into height. Good soil preparation and deep watering through the first two summers make a noticeable difference.
Yes. It evolved in hot, dry Mediterranean country on poor stony soil, so an established tree carries a dry summer without irrigation. Deep, infrequent watering during the first couple of years builds the root system that makes this possible. It also handles moderate frost, wind and low fertility soils.
Evergreen. It keeps its grey-green foliage all year and sheds old leaves gradually rather than dropping the lot in autumn, so you get shade in summer and cover in winter without a heavy leaf fall to clean up. That makes it useful near driveways, paths and outdoor living areas.
For a feature tree allow 3 to 4 metres from other trees and structures so the full canopy and form can develop. For avenue planting, 3 metres apart gives a uniform line. Given the mature spread of 10 to 15 metres, keep single specimens well clear of buildings, fences and services.
Very little is needed. Plant in full sun and free-draining soil, water deeply while it establishes, and mulch out to the drip line while keeping mulch off the trunk. Formative pruning in the first few years sets a clean central leader. Leave the corky bark alone, since stripping it damages the tree.
Evergreen (foliage year round)
Quercus suber Cork Oak is expected to grow 30cm to 50cm per year (moderate) (approx.).
Quercus suber Cork Oak works in an:
Quercus suber Cork Oak is an Evergreen (foliage year round) Tree
Mature Height: 10m to 20m (approx.)
Mature Width: 10m to 15m
Quercus suber Cork Oak is expected to grow 30cm to 50cm per year (moderate) (approx.).
Quercus suber Cork Oak is expected to grow 30cm to 50cm per year (moderate) (approx.).
They are considered to have a:
Is Quercus suber Cork Oak frost tolerant?
Quercus suber Cork Oak is Frost Hardy – Survives heavy and frequent frost without damage.
Quercus suber produces small, inconspicuous catkins in spring. These blooms are not ornamental and are followed by woody acorns, which add subtle seasonal interest and are a characteristic feature of oak species.
Does Quercus suber Cork Oak flower?
Flowering Period:
Flower Type:
Flower Colour:
Not Applicable
No
Quercus suber Cork Oak is Native to The western Mediterranean, including Portugal, Spain, southern France, Italy, and North Africa, where it grows in dry forests and open woodlands.
Its thick, rugged canopy provides excellent shelter and nesting opportunities for small birds, while the foliage supports a variety of beneficial insects that contribute to a healthy garden ecosystem. Mature Cork Oaks also offer habitat hollows and textured bark that attract invertebrates, enhancing biodiversity in larger landscapes.
Quercus suber Cork Oak will thrive best in:
Quercus suber performs best in well-drained sandy or loam soils with an acidic to neutral pH. It will also tolerate poorer, drier soils provided drainage remains reliable. Avoid heavy clay, compacted or waterlogged areas unless significantly improved, as excess moisture can restrict root development and reduce long-term vigour. Keep the soil evenly moist during establishment, then gradually reduce watering as the tree matures and develops its natural drought resilience.
Is Quercus suber Cork Oak Drought tolerant?
As a young tree it requires regular deep watering to establish a strong root system. Once established, the Cork Oak develops excellent drought tolerance and thrives in hot, dry conditions thanks to its thick bark and deep roots. It maintains strong vigour and canopy density with minimal supplementary watering, even in exposed sites.
Quercus suber grows to 10-15 metres tall and 8-12 metres wide with a broad rounded canopy.
Cork Oak is slow to moderate growing, adding 20-40cm per year once established. It is a long-lived tree.
Cork Oak has thick, deeply furrowed corky bark, the same material used to make wine corks. The unusual bark gives the tree strong year-round character and sculptural appeal.
Yes. Quercus suber is an evergreen oak, holding its dark green leathery foliage year-round.
Yes. Cork Oak is highly drought tolerant once established and is well suited to Mediterranean and dry-climate gardens.
Cork Oak thrives in Mediterranean and dry temperate climates across SA, VIC, NSW, and WA, in full sun with well-drained soil.
Plant 6-10 metres apart given the broad mature canopy, or as individual feature trees with plenty of room.
Approx. 1.5m – 1.8m
Enquire for current heights
Heights are approximate and vary between individual trees.
We take pride in supplying A+ grade advanced trees. When stock at our farm is not yet ready, we work with our trusted trade suppliers to source the best available trees for your garden.
Enriched Planting Mix is a certified organic blend of Pure Magic Compost, composted animal manure, gypsum, composted coarse bark and a wetting agent, bagged in 30L. It is built to be dug through existing garden soil at planting time rather than used on its own, and the gypsum is what sets it apart from a plain compost.
Gypsum helps break up heavy clay so water and roots can move through it, while the compost and manure return organic matter and nutrient to tired ground. The coarse bark holds structure and keeps air around the root zone, and the wetting agent keeps moisture in the soil longer after rain or watering.
Use it when planting trees, shrubs, roses, fruit trees and exotic garden plants, particularly into clay. Dig a hole twice the width of the pot and 7 centimetres deeper, then mix roughly one third planting mix through the excavated soil. Spread 7 centimetres of that improved soil in the base before setting the plant in.
About Enriched Planting Mix
It is a blend of Pure Magic Compost, composted animal manure, gypsum, composted coarse bark and a wetting agent. Each part has a job. The compost and manure supply organic matter and nutrient, the gypsum works on clay structure, the bark keeps air around the roots and the wetting agent holds moisture in the soil.
It suits exotic garden plants, including roses, ornamental and deciduous trees, fruit trees, shrubs and perennials, and it earns its keep most on heavy clay sites. It is a planting mix rather than a potting mix, so its job is improving soil at planting time. Phosphorus sensitive natives are the one clear exception.
No, not for the phosphorus sensitive ones. The composted animal manure in this blend lifts phosphorus well above what Proteaceae such as Banksia, Grevillea, Hakea and Protea will tolerate, and the result can be leaf burn, dieback and plant death. Use the Native Potting Mix for those species, or plant them into unimproved local soil.
Yes. It is a certified organic product with no chemical additives, which is why the manure and compost in it are fully composted rather than raw. That makes it sound around fruit trees and vegetable beds, and it means you are adding genuine organic matter to your soil rather than a synthetic conditioner.
Work on roughly one third planting mix to two thirds of the soil you dug out of the hole. For a shrub out of a 200 millimetre pot that is only a few litres. An advanced tree going into a large hole will take considerably more. Judge the quantity by the volume of the hole rather than the size of the plant.
It is not a potting mix and should not be used on its own in a container. The blend is designed to be diluted through garden soil, and used straight in a pot it holds too much water and settles badly. For containers, reach for a premium potting mix, or the native mix if you are potting natives.
Yes. Water the plant well several hours before you plant it, then water thoroughly again once the hole is backfilled and the soil firmed down. That first deep watering settles the improved soil around the root ball and drives out air pockets. Keep the water up over the first few months while the roots establish.
Enriched Planting Mix is a certified organic blend of Pure Magic Compost, composted animal manure, gypsum, composted coarse bark and a wetting agent, bagged in 30L. It is built to be dug through existing garden soil at planting time rather than used on its own, and the gypsum is what sets it apart from a plain compost.
Gypsum helps break up heavy clay so water and roots can move through it, while the compost and manure return organic matter and nutrient to tired ground. The coarse bark holds structure and keeps air around the root zone, and the wetting agent keeps moisture in the soil longer after rain or watering.
Use it when planting trees, shrubs, roses, fruit trees and exotic garden plants, particularly into clay. Dig a hole twice the width of the pot and 7 centimetres deeper, then mix roughly one third planting mix through the excavated soil. Spread 7 centimetres of that improved soil in the base before setting the plant in.
About Enriched Planting Mix
It is a blend of Pure Magic Compost, composted animal manure, gypsum, composted coarse bark and a wetting agent. Each part has a job. The compost and manure supply organic matter and nutrient, the gypsum works on clay structure, the bark keeps air around the roots and the wetting agent holds moisture in the soil.
It suits exotic garden plants, including roses, ornamental and deciduous trees, fruit trees, shrubs and perennials, and it earns its keep most on heavy clay sites. It is a planting mix rather than a potting mix, so its job is improving soil at planting time. Phosphorus sensitive natives are the one clear exception.
No, not for the phosphorus sensitive ones. The composted animal manure in this blend lifts phosphorus well above what Proteaceae such as Banksia, Grevillea, Hakea and Protea will tolerate, and the result can be leaf burn, dieback and plant death. Use the Native Potting Mix for those species, or plant them into unimproved local soil.
Yes. It is a certified organic product with no chemical additives, which is why the manure and compost in it are fully composted rather than raw. That makes it sound around fruit trees and vegetable beds, and it means you are adding genuine organic matter to your soil rather than a synthetic conditioner.
Work on roughly one third planting mix to two thirds of the soil you dug out of the hole. For a shrub out of a 200 millimetre pot that is only a few litres. An advanced tree going into a large hole will take considerably more. Judge the quantity by the volume of the hole rather than the size of the plant.
It is not a potting mix and should not be used on its own in a container. The blend is designed to be diluted through garden soil, and used straight in a pot it holds too much water and settles badly. For containers, reach for a premium potting mix, or the native mix if you are potting natives.
Yes. Water the plant well several hours before you plant it, then water thoroughly again once the hole is backfilled and the soil firmed down. That first deep watering settles the improved soil around the root ball and drives out air pockets. Keep the water up over the first few months while the roots establish.
Pittosporum tenuifolium 'Silver Sheen' carries small shimmering silver-green leaves on near-black stems, giving a light airy screen that moves in the wind rather than reading as a solid green wall. It is one of the most widely specified screening plants in Australian landscape design for exactly that reason.
'Silver Sheen' grows to 4 to 6 metres tall but only 1.5 to 2 metres wide at 30 to 60 centimetres per year, which makes it a genuine solution for narrow beds along fence lines and between buildings where height is needed but width is not available. Small cream flowers appear in spring and are lightly fragrant.
'Silver Sheen' grows in full sun to part shade and tolerates light to moderate frost once established, performing from subtropical Queensland through Sydney, Melbourne, Gippsland and Adelaide. It clips well, holds density under regular trimming, and is equally effective as a formal hedge or a loose screen.
About Pittosporum tenuifolium 'Silver Sheen'
'Silver Sheen' grows to 4 to 6 metres tall and only 1.5 to 2 metres wide, which makes it one of the best options for narrow screening where a tall hedge is needed in a shallow bed.
It grows at 30 to 60 centimetres per year once established, reaching a usable screening height within three to four years with regular water and feeding.
It naturally holds to 1.5 to 2 metres wide and can be trimmed to under a metre with regular clipping, which is why it is so often used in tight side-boundary positions.
Plant 1 to 1.5 metres apart for a dense informal screen, or 80 centimetres apart for a tighter formal hedge. Closer spacing fills in faster but needs more trimming.
'Silver Sheen' handles light to moderate frost once established. Young plants benefit from protection through their first winter in colder inland districts.
Yes. It performs in full sun through to part shade. In shadier positions growth is slightly more open, which suits a softer informal screen.
It performs from subtropical Queensland through Northern NSW, Sydney, the South Coast and tablelands, Melbourne and surrounds, the Western District, Gippsland and Adelaide.
Buxus sempervirens English Box Topiary Balls are pre-clipped formal evergreen specimens, available in three mature sizes and ready to place. The tight, fine, dark green foliage holds a precise rounded form year-round and gives the classic formal topiary look that no other Buxus replicates. As one of our most consistently strong-selling products, our English Box topiary balls are well-shaped, well-rooted, and arrive in proportion to the pot size.
English Box performs best in cool to temperate climates and is slow growing at around 15 to 25 cm per year in good conditions, which is exactly why it holds sharp formal shapes so well. It thrives in full sun to part shade with well-drained, slightly acidic to neutral loamy soil, and is frost hardy, drought tolerant once established, and excellent in containers. Two light clips per year, in spring and again in late summer, keep the ball form crisp.
Use them flanking entrances, lining formal pathways, anchoring symmetrical garden beds, defining parterre and knot gardens, and in pairs in classic urns and decorative pots at front doors. Buxus sempervirens is the original topiary plant and remains the benchmark for traditional and contemporary formal design, with a level of finesse and density that fast-growing alternatives cannot replicate.
About Buxus sempervirens English Box Topiary Balls
Our English Box topiary balls arrive pre-clipped and ready to place at the size you order. The 30cm/33cm pots have ball diameters of approximately 30 to 45 cm, the 40cm/45L pots have ball diameters of 40 to 55 cm, and the 50cm/75L pots have ball diameters of 50 to 70 cm. They are well-rooted and in proportion to the pot.
English Box is slow-growing, adding approximately 15 to 25 cm per year once established in good conditions. This slow growth rate is one of the reasons it holds sharp formal shapes so well, and why mature pre-clipped specimens command a premium over seedling-grown stock.
English Box (Buxus sempervirens) has the smallest, finest leaves and the tightest formal texture, ideal for traditional parterres and clipped balls. Japanese Box (Buxus microphylla japonica) has slightly larger leaves, grows faster, and handles heat better. Shaggy Box (Buxus bodinieri) has soft, rounded leaves, much better blight resistance, and is the best choice for humid subtropical climates where English Box can struggle.
English Box performs best in cool to temperate regions including Victoria, the ACT, the NSW Southern Highlands and Central Tablelands, Tasmania, and the elevated parts of South Australia and Western Australia. In humid coastal or hot subtropical regions, consider Buxus bodinieri Shaggy Box or Japanese Box instead for better long-term performance.
Lightly clip in spring and again in late summer or early autumn to maintain the ball shape. Avoid pruning in the heat of summer or during frost periods. Use sharp shears for the cleanest formal finish, and step back regularly to check the symmetry of the form.
Yes. English Box is the classic potted topiary plant and pre-clipped balls look particularly striking in pairs at entrances and on terraces. Use a minimum 30L pot for the 30cm/33cm size and scale up from there, with a quality potting mix and a slow-release fertiliser applied twice yearly.
English Box can be affected by box blight, particularly in humid conditions where foliage stays wet. To reduce risk, ensure good air circulation around each plant, avoid overhead watering, and prune to maintain airflow through the canopy. In high-humidity regions, Buxus bodinieri Shaggy Box is a more disease-resistant alternative.
Rhaphiolepis indica 'Oriental Pearl' is one of the best compact evergreen shrubs available for low hedges and borders. The glossy dark green foliage forms a naturally tidy rounded mound, and clusters of soft white to pale pink flowers appear from late winter into spring, followed by small dark berries.
Oriental Pearl grows to just 1-1.5 metres tall and wide, holding a neat uniform shape with minimal pruning. The compact form makes it ideal for low clipped hedges, narrow borders, mass plantings, and container planting, particularly where space is limited and a formal finish is wanted.
Oriental Pearl thrives across most Australian climates in full sun to part shade, tolerating heat, coastal exposure, salt spray, light frost, and a wide range of well-drained soils. It is both drought tolerant and salt tolerant once established, making it a reliable low-maintenance choice for coastal and low-water gardens.
About Rhaphiolepis indica 'Oriental Pearl'
Rhaphiolepis indica 'Oriental Pearl' grows to 1-1.5 metres tall and wide, forming a naturally compact dense mound.
Oriental Pearl has a moderate growth rate of 20-40cm per year once established.
Yes. Oriental Pearl is one of the best compact evergreen shrubs for low hedges, borders, and mass plantings, holding a tidy rounded form with minimal pruning.
Oriental Pearl produces clusters of soft white to pale pink flowers from late winter into spring, followed by small dark berries.
Yes. Oriental Pearl is both drought tolerant and salt tolerant once established, making it well suited to coastal gardens and low-water landscapes.
Plant 50-70cm apart for a continuous low hedge, or 80cm-1 metre for a softer informal border.
Oriental Pearl thrives across most Australian climates in full sun to part shade, tolerating heat, coastal exposure, and a wide range of well-drained soils.
Melaleuca nesophila, the Showy Honey Myrtle, is an evergreen Australian native shrub to small tree from the south coast of Western Australia. Fine grey green foliage sits on a dense rounded frame over papery bark, and mauve to pink pom pom flowers cover the outer growth through spring and summer.
Mature width is 2 to 4 metres, with height usually settling around 3 to 5 metres, and growth of 30 to 60 centimetres a year. It wants full sun and takes sand, limestone, gravel and moderately heavy soils. Salt wind, drought and light to moderate frost are all handled once the roots are down.
This is a screening and hedging plant first, used along boundaries, on coastal blocks and through council road reserves where conditions are hard and maintenance budgets are thin. Space it at 1 to 1.5 metres for an informal screen. It gives colour, density and habitat value from one low input plant.
About Showy Honey Myrtle
Melaleuca nesophila, or Showy Honey Myrtle, is an evergreen Australian native shrub to small tree from southern Western Australia. It has fine grey green foliage, a dense rounded habit and soft papery bark, and carries mauve to pink pom pom flowers through spring and summer that age to a soft grey.
It spreads 2 to 4 metres wide and generally reaches 3 to 5 metres tall in a garden, though regular trimming will hold it lower. Growth is moderate to fast at around 30 to 60 centimetres a year, so a screen planted from advanced stock closes over within three or four seasons.
For a dense informal screen, plant 1 to 1.5 metres apart. For a tighter formal hedge, bring that in to 80 centimetres. As a feature tree, allow 3 to 4 metres so the full canopy and form can develop, or 3 metres apart along an avenue for a uniform, soft textured line.
Yes, it is one of the better coastal Melaleucas. It tolerates salt laden wind, sandy and limestone soils, and exposed front line positions once established, which is why it is planted so widely along the southern coastline. In very exposed sites it will lean with the prevailing wind, and most people like the result.
The main flush runs through spring and into summer, roughly September to January. Flowers open mauve to purple pink in dense rounded heads across the outer foliage, then age to grey and stay on the plant. Bees and honeyeaters work it heavily while it is out, so expect plenty of activity.
It handles light to moderate frost once established, which covers most coastal and near coastal parts of southern Australia. Young plants are more vulnerable in their first winter, so plant in autumn or early spring and keep them out of low frost hollows. Hard, repeated inland frost will burn new growth.
Tip prune after flowering to keep it dense and stop the base going bare. It takes a hard cut back if it becomes leggy, though remove no more than about a third at a time. Water through the first summer, then it is largely self sufficient. Use a low phosphorus native fertiliser in spring on poor soils.
Correa alba, the White Correa, is a compact evergreen Australian native grown for soft felted grey-green leaves and small white star flowers. The flowers come through autumn and winter, when little else is out.
It forms a dense rounded shrub 1 to 2 metres tall and wide. That habit suits low informal hedges, borders, mass planting and underplanting beneath taller trees, and it takes clipping well enough to hold a formal shape.
It is one of the most salt tolerant shrubs in the trade, growing wild on exposed headlands and dunes from New South Wales through Victoria, Tasmania and South Australia. Salt wind, sand and poor soil are its normal conditions. Add drought and light frost tolerance and it is the obvious choice for a beachfront garden where Buxus and Lilly Pilly burn.
We carry it in two forms. The natural form is supplied unshaped, for hedging, borders and mass planting. The Ball Form is the same plant clipped into a formal sphere over several seasons and arrives finished. Salt tolerant formal topiary is rare, so a native ball does what Buxus cannot in a coastal garden, and two light clips a year hold the shape.
About Correa alba White Correa
1 to 2 metres tall and wide as a natural rounded shrub, putting on 30 to 60 centimetres a year. A clipped ball stays at whatever size you trim it to, usually held between 50 and 80 centimetres across.
Same plant, different training. The natural form is supplied unshaped, for a hedge, border, mass planting or an informal rounded shrub. The Ball Form is grown on and clipped over several seasons into a formal sphere, and arrives finished rather than as something you shape yourself.
Salt and drought. Buxus wants moisture and shelter and burns in exposed coastal positions. Correa alba comes off the headlands and handles salt wind, sand and dry spells. The foliage is grey-green rather than dark glossy green, and it flowers, which Buxus does not usefully.
Small white star flowers appear from autumn through winter into spring, heaviest over the cooler months. That timing feeds honeyeaters and native bees when little else is in bloom. On clipped balls, trim after the main flush so you do not remove the display.
It is among the most salt tolerant native shrubs available and grows naturally on exposed cliffs and dunes. Sandy free draining soil and salt spray are its normal conditions. Drainage matters far more to it than soil richness.
60 to 80 centimetres apart for a low informal hedge, or 1 metre apart for mass planting where each plant keeps its own rounded shape. Balls repeated down a path sit well at 1 to 1.5 metres apart.
Yes, and the Ball Form in a container suits an entrance, courtyard or balcony. Use a pot at least 40 centimetres across with a free draining mix, and never let it stand in a saucer of water.
Water through the first two summers, then only in prolonged dry spells. Feed once in spring with a low phosphorus native fertiliser, as correas belong to the citrus family and resent high phosphorus blends. Trim lightly after flowering for a natural shrub, or twice a year taking only soft new growth to hold a ball.
Grevillea x 'Moonlight' carries very large creamy-white toothbrush flower spikes almost continuously through the year, each one up to 20 centimetres long and heavily worked by honeyeaters. Few native shrubs flower this hard for this long.
'Moonlight' grows to 4 to 6 metres tall but only around 2 metres wide at 20 to 40 centimetres per year, giving a tall narrow frame clothed in fine silver-green divided foliage. That upright habit suits narrow garden beds, screening along a fence line, or a single feature in a large pot.
This Australian native grows in full sun to part shade, tolerates light to moderate frost once established, and is highly drought tolerant. It needs free-draining soil and low-phosphorus feeding, and rewards a light prune after each main flowering flush with denser growth.
About Grevillea 'Moonlight'
'Moonlight' grows to 4 to 6 metres tall and only around 2 metres wide, giving an unusually tall narrow form for a grevillea. It suits narrow beds and screening positions.
'Moonlight' flowers close to year round, with the heaviest flushes in spring and autumn. The large creamy-white toothbrush spikes can reach 20 centimetres long.
Yes. The nectar-rich flowers are a magnet for honeyeaters and other nectar-feeding birds, and the dense fine foliage provides shelter for smaller species.
It grows at a moderate 20 to 40 centimetres per year, reaching a usable screening height within four to five years in a warm free-draining position.
It requires free-draining soil and will not tolerate waterlogging. Use only low-phosphorus native fertiliser, as grevilleas and other Proteaceae are damaged by high-phosphorus formulations.
Yes. Once established it is highly drought tolerant and needs only occasional deep watering through extended dry spells.
Yes. A light prune after each main flowering flush keeps the plant dense and prevents it becoming leggy at the base. Avoid cutting back hard into bare old wood.
Trachelospermum jasminoides 'Balls' is Star Jasmine grown and clipped into a dense evergreen sphere. The small glossy leaves sit tight on a woody framework, holding a clean rounded outline year round. White pinwheel flowers open in spring and carry a strong sweet scent right across a courtyard.
Ball specimens hold at about 1 to 1.5 metres tall and wide with light clipping. Full sun to part shade suits them, in any free draining soil. Growth is slow to moderate at 30 to 50 centimetres a year. They handle coastal exposure, light frost and dry spells once the roots are down.
Repeat them along a driveway, either side of an entry, or in pots on a terrace where a formal shape is wanted straight away. They read as structure in a planting scheme without the height of a hedge, and because the form is already trained, a new garden looks settled from the day it goes in.
About Star Jasmine Balls
They are Trachelospermum jasminoides, the common Star Jasmine, grown and clipped into a dense evergreen sphere on a woody framework. Instead of climbing, the plant is trained into a self supporting rounded shape. The foliage is small, glossy and dark green, and the plant carries scented white flowers through spring.
They hold at roughly 1 to 1.5 metres tall and 1 to 1.5 metres wide. Growth is slow to moderate at 30 to 50 centimetres a year, so a light clip once or twice a year keeps the ball tight at whatever size within that range suits the setting.
Full sun to part shade both work. Full sun gives the densest foliage and the heaviest flowering, while part shade produces slightly softer, more open growth and fewer flowers. Avoid deep shade, where the ball thins out and loses its outline. Morning sun with afternoon protection suits hot inland gardens.
Yes, and pots are one of the main uses. A container 50 to 60 centimetres wide with a quality free draining mix will hold a ball for years. Water more often than you would in the ground, especially in summer, and feed in spring and again in late summer. Refresh the mix every few years.
Yes, the foliage is held year round. The glossy dark green leaves take on a bronze tinge in cold weather and green up again in spring, but the plant never goes bare. That is what makes it useful as permanent structure in a scheme, particularly in winter once perennials have died back.
Flowering runs through spring, roughly September to November, and often carries into early summer in warmer districts. The white pinwheel flowers are small but produced in quantity, and the scent is strong on still evenings. Flowering is heaviest on plants in full sun that were not clipped hard just before bud set.
Clip lightly with hedging shears once after flowering and again in late summer if needed, taking only the new growth to keep the outline crisp. Water deeply in dry weather, mulch the base, and feed in early spring. The sap is milky and can irritate skin, so wear gloves when trimming.
Quercus acutissima, the Sawtooth Oak, is a deciduous oak with narrow, bristle toothed leaves that look more like a sweet chestnut than a classic oak. The canopy starts pyramidal and broadens into a heavy rounded crown. Foliage turns clear golden yellow in autumn, and mature trees carry acorns in shaggy fringed cups.
It takes full sun, tolerates light shade and grows on clay or loam without fuss, provided the site is not waterlogged. Growth is moderate at 40 to 70 centimetres a year, reaching 10 to 15 metres tall with a broad 15 to 20 metre spread. Frost hardy, and drought tolerant once settled.
This is a tree for parks, school grounds, large rural gardens and biodiversity corridors, anywhere there is room for a wide crown and a genuine pool of summer shade. Heavy acorn crops feed native birds and stock. Given the space it needs, it delivers shade and habitat with almost no upkeep.
About Sawtooth Oak
Quercus acutissima is a deciduous oak from east Asia, named for the bristle tipped teeth along its narrow leaves. The foliage looks closer to a sweet chestnut than a European oak. It forms a broad rounded shade canopy, colours golden yellow in autumn and bears distinctive acorns in fringed, mossy looking cups.
Mature trees reach about 10 to 15 metres tall with a broad spread of 15 to 20 metres, so width is the figure that governs where it can go. Young trees are narrow and pyramidal and only widen out after a decade or two. Plan the position around the mature crown, not the nursery tree.
Moderate, around 40 to 70 centimetres a year, which is quick for an oak. Establishment is helped considerably by deep watering through the first two summers. Growth slows as the crown broadens, and useful shade is generally available within about eight to ten years of planting an advanced specimen.
It is deciduous. Leaves turn clear golden yellow through autumn, roughly April to May, then brown and fall, and some dry leaves may hang on into early winter on younger trees. New growth flushes in spring alongside inconspicuous yellow catkins. Bare winter branches let sun reach whatever is planted beneath.
Yes, and often heavily once trees reach about ten years old. The acorns are large and sit in a shaggy fringed cup, and they feed cockatoos, parrots and livestock. Drop is worth thinking about over paths, pools and parked cars, which is one reason the tree suits parks and open ground.
It performs across temperate, cool temperate and warm temperate districts, taking in most of Victoria, Tasmania, the ACT, inland New South Wales, the Adelaide Hills and the south west of Western Australia. It tolerates heat and dry spells once established but colours best where autumn nights are cool. Tropical areas are unsuitable.
Water deeply once a week through the first two summers, then taper off as the roots reach down. Mulch a wide ring around the trunk and keep grass off it. Formative pruning in the first few winters sets a single strong leader and lifts the lower limbs for clearance. Mature trees need almost nothing.
Quercus lusitanica, the Lusitanian or Gall Oak, is a compact evergreen oak grown as a tall shrub or small tree. The small, finely toothed leaves are soft green and held densely right down to the base, which is what makes it useful as a screen rather than a shade tree.
Full sun and well drained soil produce the tightest growth, and it holds foliage year round through temperate, warm temperate and Mediterranean climates. Growth is moderate at roughly 30 to 50 centimetres a year, to 3 to 5 metres tall and 2 to 4 metres wide. Drought tolerance is good once established.
Use it along boundaries, between neighbouring windows, as a windbreak on an exposed site, or clipped into a formal hedge where a wall of green is wanted at first floor height. It suits medium sized gardens, urban courtyards and civic screens, giving year round privacy on a footprint most screening trees cannot manage.
About Lusitanian Oak
The Lusitanian Oak, also known as the Gall Oak, is a compact evergreen oak from the Iberian Peninsula and North Africa. It grows as a dense tall shrub or small tree with small, finely toothed, soft green leaves carried right down to ground level, which is what makes it a screening plant.
It reaches about 3 to 5 metres tall and 2 to 4 metres wide, which puts it at the useful height for blocking a first floor window or a neighbouring roofline. Clipping holds it lower if you want a 2 metre hedge. It is one of the smaller oaks in cultivation.
Space plants 1 to 1.5 metres apart for a dense informal screen, or 80 centimetres apart for a tighter formal hedge that knits together sooner. As individual feature plants allow 3 to 4 metres so each one can carry its full width. Closer spacing fills faster but needs more pruning later on.
Yes, it holds its foliage year round, so a screen planted for privacy stays solid through winter when it is often needed most. Older leaves are replaced gradually across the year rather than all at once, so there is no seasonal bare patch or heavy leaf drop to manage.
Drought tolerance is good once the root system is down, which typically takes two summers. It comes from hot dry Mediterranean country and copes with extended dry spells, though a hedge under regular clipping appreciates water more than an unpruned plant. Drainage matters more to it than rainfall does.
Full sun gives the densest, tightest growth and the best screening. It will take a few hours of shade, particularly afternoon shade in hot inland areas, but a plant grown in deep shade opens up and thins out at the base, which defeats the purpose of a screen.
Clip once or twice a year, in late spring and again in late summer, cutting into soft growth rather than old wood. Trim the sides slightly narrower at the top so light reaches the base. Water through the first two summers, mulch each spring and feed with a slow release fertiliser after the first cut.
Quercus palustris delivers the most reliable autumn colour of any oak grown in Australia, turning deep scarlet through bronze across a canopy of deeply lobed glossy leaves. The Pin Oak is also the fastest of the oaks, which removes the usual objection to planting one.
Quercus palustris grows to 15 to 25 metres tall and 9 to 15 metres wide at 60 to 90 centimetres per year, holding a strong pyramidal form with a straight central leader and distinctive downswept lower branches. It is a standard choice for avenues, parkland and large-scale civic shade planting.
This is a frost hardy tree that survives heavy and frequent frost without damage, and it colours best where autumn nights are genuinely cold. It grows in full sun, tolerates wet ground better than most oaks, and handles compacted urban soils.
About Quercus palustris
The Pin Oak reaches 15 to 25 metres tall and 9 to 15 metres wide. It is a large shade tree suited to parkland, avenues and acreage rather than small suburban blocks.
It grows at 60 to 90 centimetres per year, which makes it the fastest of the commonly grown oaks and the most practical where shade is needed within a reasonable timeframe.
Foliage turns deep scarlet through bronze in autumn and holds well before dropping. Colour is most intense in districts with cold autumn nights, such as the tablelands and inland Victoria.
Yes. It is fully deciduous, though young trees often hold dry brown foliage through winter, dropping it as new growth emerges in spring.
Yes. Quercus palustris naturally occurs on bottomland and floodplain sites and tolerates periodically wet, heavy soils better than most oaks.
Plant 8 to 10 metres apart for an avenue where canopies will eventually meet, and at least 10 metres from buildings, paving and services.
Yes. It survives heavy and frequent frost without damage and performs reliably in cold inland districts, where it also colours best.
Quercus robur 'Fastigiata' is the columnar form of the English Oak, holding its branches tight and vertical around a strong central leader. The classic lobed, dark green leaves turn yellow then russet brown in autumn, and yellow green catkins appear in spring ahead of acorns carried on long stalks.
Full sun, well drained soil and moderate water suit it, and it copes with clay, compaction, urban air and dry spells once established. It is frost hardy through heavy repeated frost, which makes it dependable in cool and cold inland districts. Growth is around 30 to 60 centimetres a year.
Mature height is 15 to 20 metres with a width of only 4 to 6 metres, so it holds a formal line down a driveway, street or property entrance without crowding it. Rural landowners use it for shelter rows. The narrow crown gives you oak presence where a spreading canopy will not fit.
About Upright English Oak
It is the narrow upright form of the English Oak, also sold as the Upright Oak or Cypress Oak. It carries the same lobed dark green leaves and stalked acorns as the species but holds its branches close and vertical around a central leader, giving a column instead of the familiar spreading canopy.
It reaches 15 to 20 metres tall and only 4 to 6 metres wide at maturity, so it is tall without ever being broad. The narrow habit is genetic and needs no pruning to maintain. Full height takes several decades, and the tree is very long lived once it has settled in.
Moderate, around 30 to 60 centimetres a year. Growth is steadier on deep soil with summer water and slower on shallow or compacted ground. As with most oaks the first few years go largely into root development, after which vertical extension becomes noticeably more consistent from season to season.
Yes. It is frost hardy and survives heavy and frequent frost without damage, which makes it dependable in the tablelands, alpine fringes and cold inland districts where many trees struggle. It also handles hot dry summers once established, so it copes with the wide temperature swings of inland Australia.
Yes. Yellow green catkins appear in spring, followed by acorns carried on long stalks, which is the feature that separates Quercus robur from other oaks. Cropping generally begins once the tree is well into its second decade, and quantities vary a good deal from one year to the next.
Allow 3 metres between trunks for a uniform avenue, which suits the narrow crown well. For individual feature trees give 3 to 4 metres so each column stands clear. For a tall informal screen along a boundary, 1 to 1.5 metres apart will close the gaps sooner.
Very little pruning is needed. Remove any competing leader in the first few winters so the column stays true, and take out dead or crossing wood while the tree is bare. Water deeply through the first two summers, mulch each spring and keep turf back from the base of the trunk.
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Quercus suber, the Cork Oak, is a broad evergreen tree with a spreading, rounded canopy and small glossy grey-green lobed leaves. Its defining feature is the thick, deeply fissured corky bark, which builds up over decades into a pale, sculptural trunk. Insignificant spring catkins are followed by acorns.
It wants full sun and free-draining soil, and it is at its best in Mediterranean and warm temperate climates through southern Australia. Growth is moderate at roughly 30 to 50 centimetres a year. Established trees handle drought, poor soil and moderate frost, and ask for very little attention.
Cork Oak suits rural properties, estate driveways, parks and large gardens where year round shade matters more than autumn colour. It carries dry summers without irrigation once settled, so it works well on broadacre sites and low water landscapes. A long lived shade tree that keeps its leaves.
About Cork Oak
Quercus suber is a broad evergreen oak from the western Mediterranean, grown for its thick corky bark and small glossy grey-green lobed leaves. The bark is the same material used for wine corks and builds into a pale, deeply furrowed trunk over many years. It holds its foliage right through winter.
In an open Australian garden or park setting expect 10 to 20 metres in height with a canopy 10 to 15 metres wide. The habit is broad and spreading rather than upright, so allow room for the crown to develop. Trees on dry, exposed sites will sit at the lower end of that range.
Growth is moderate, roughly 30 to 50 centimetres a year once the tree is established. It is not a quick screening tree, and it puts as much effort into trunk and bark development as it does into height. Good soil preparation and deep watering through the first two summers make a noticeable difference.
Yes. It evolved in hot, dry Mediterranean country on poor stony soil, so an established tree carries a dry summer without irrigation. Deep, infrequent watering during the first couple of years builds the root system that makes this possible. It also handles moderate frost, wind and low fertility soils.
Evergreen. It keeps its grey-green foliage all year and sheds old leaves gradually rather than dropping the lot in autumn, so you get shade in summer and cover in winter without a heavy leaf fall to clean up. That makes it useful near driveways, paths and outdoor living areas.
For a feature tree allow 3 to 4 metres from other trees and structures so the full canopy and form can develop. For avenue planting, 3 metres apart gives a uniform line. Given the mature spread of 10 to 15 metres, keep single specimens well clear of buildings, fences and services.
Very little is needed. Plant in full sun and free-draining soil, water deeply while it establishes, and mulch out to the drip line while keeping mulch off the trunk. Formative pruning in the first few years sets a clean central leader. Leave the corky bark alone, since stripping it damages the tree.
