Most loved for its deeply lobed glossy green leaves that turn brilliant shades of red, bronze, and scarlet in autumn, paired with a strong pyramidal habit.
Approximate only. Minimum height important? Confirm with us.
Height guide & disclaimer
Height guide disclaimer: Height ranges are approximate only. As living products, plant heights naturally vary between individual plants, batches, and seasons. No guarantee is given that supplied plants will fall within the stated range. If minimum heights are required, you must confirm current batch heights with Evergreen Trees Direct prior to purchase. Variation in height is normal and is not grounds for return, refund, replacement, or compensation.
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Quercus palustris delivers the most reliable autumn colour of any oak grown in Australia, turning deep scarlet through bronze across a canopy of deeply lobed glossy leaves. The Pin Oak is also the fastest of the oaks, which removes the usual objection to planting one.
Quercus palustris grows to 15 to 25 metres tall and 9 to 15 metres wide at 60 to 90 centimetres per year, holding a strong pyramidal form with a straight central leader and distinctive downswept lower branches. It is a standard choice for avenues, parkland and large-scale civic shade planting.
This is a frost hardy tree that survives heavy and frequent frost without damage, and it colours best where autumn nights are genuinely cold. It grows in full sun, tolerates wet ground better than most oaks, and handles compacted urban soils.
About Quercus palustris
The Pin Oak reaches 15 to 25 metres tall and 9 to 15 metres wide. It is a large shade tree suited to parkland, avenues and acreage rather than small suburban blocks.
It grows at 60 to 90 centimetres per year, which makes it the fastest of the commonly grown oaks and the most practical where shade is needed within a reasonable timeframe.
Foliage turns deep scarlet through bronze in autumn and holds well before dropping. Colour is most intense in districts with cold autumn nights, such as the tablelands and inland Victoria.
Yes. It is fully deciduous, though young trees often hold dry brown foliage through winter, dropping it as new growth emerges in spring.
Yes. Quercus palustris naturally occurs on bottomland and floodplain sites and tolerates periodically wet, heavy soils better than most oaks.
Plant 8 to 10 metres apart for an avenue where canopies will eventually meet, and at least 10 metres from buildings, paving and services.
Yes. It survives heavy and frequent frost without damage and performs reliably in cold inland districts, where it also colours best.
| Pot / bag size | Width | Depth |
|---|---|---|
| 30cm Pot | 33cm | 30cm |
| 40cm/45L Pot | 44cm | 41.5cm |
| 50cm Pot / 70L Pot | 55cm | 41.8cm |
| 100L Bag | 50.6cm | 52.8cm |
| 150L Bag | 66cm | 55cm |
| 200L Bag | 71.5cm | 60.5cm |
| 300L Bag | 88cm | 63.8cm |
| 400L Bag | 99cm | 66cm |
| 500L Bag | 122cm | 66cm |
| 750L Bag | 134cm | 69cm |
| 1000L Bag | 146.3cm | 71.5cm |
| 2000L Bag | 176cm | 82.5cm |
General planting reference from our existing size guide. Actual containers can vary by supplier and batch; confirm exact dimensions if required.
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Quercus palustris delivers the most reliable autumn colour of any oak grown in Australia, turning deep scarlet through bronze across a canopy of deeply lobed glossy leaves. The Pin Oak is also the fastest of the oaks, which removes the usual objection to planting one.
Quercus palustris grows to 15 to 25 metres tall and 9 to 15 metres wide at 60 to 90 centimetres per year, holding a strong pyramidal form with a straight central leader and distinctive downswept lower branches. It is a standard choice for avenues, parkland and large-scale civic shade planting.
This is a frost hardy tree that survives heavy and frequent frost without damage, and it colours best where autumn nights are genuinely cold. It grows in full sun, tolerates wet ground better than most oaks, and handles compacted urban soils.
About Quercus palustris
The Pin Oak reaches 15 to 25 metres tall and 9 to 15 metres wide. It is a large shade tree suited to parkland, avenues and acreage rather than small suburban blocks.
It grows at 60 to 90 centimetres per year, which makes it the fastest of the commonly grown oaks and the most practical where shade is needed within a reasonable timeframe.
Foliage turns deep scarlet through bronze in autumn and holds well before dropping. Colour is most intense in districts with cold autumn nights, such as the tablelands and inland Victoria.
Yes. It is fully deciduous, though young trees often hold dry brown foliage through winter, dropping it as new growth emerges in spring.
Yes. Quercus palustris naturally occurs on bottomland and floodplain sites and tolerates periodically wet, heavy soils better than most oaks.
Plant 8 to 10 metres apart for an avenue where canopies will eventually meet, and at least 10 metres from buildings, paving and services.
Yes. It survives heavy and frequent frost without damage and performs reliably in cold inland districts, where it also colours best.
Deciduous (Defoliates throughout colder months)
Quercus palustris - Pin Oak is expected to grow 60cm to 90cm per year (fast) (approx.).
Quercus palustris - Pin Oak works in an:
Quercus palustris - Pin Oak is an Deciduous (Defoliates throughout colder months) Tree
Mature Height: 15m to 25m (approx.)
Mature Width: 9m to 15m
Quercus palustris - Pin Oak is expected to grow 60cm to 90cm per year (fast) (approx.).
Quercus palustris - Pin Oak is expected to grow 60cm to 90cm per year (fast) (approx.).
They are considered to have a:
Is Quercus palustris - Pin Oak frost tolerant?
Quercus palustris - Pin Oak is Frost Hardy – Survives heavy and frequent frost without damage.
Quercus palustris produces small, inconspicuous catkins in spring, followed by characteristic acorns later in the year. While the flowers are not ornamental, the Pin Oak is celebrated for its deeply lobed foliage and vibrant autumn colours, typically in shades of red, bronze and russet.
Does Quercus palustris - Pin Oak flower?
Flowering Period:
Flower Type:
Flower Colour:
Yellow
No
Quercus palustris - Pin Oak is Native to Eastern and central United States, where it grows naturally in moist lowlands, floodplains, and along streams.
Its dense, pyramidal canopy provides excellent shelter and nesting habitat for small birds, while its foliage supports a broad range of beneficial insects that underpin local food webs. The acorns that follow in autumn also offer a valuable seasonal food source for wildlife, making the Pin Oak a strong biodiversity-enhancing species.
Quercus palustris - Pin Oak will thrive best in:
Quercus palustris performs best in well-drained loam soils with an acidic pH. It will also tolerate sandy loam if enriched with organic matter to improve moisture retention. Avoid alkaline soils, compacted ground or waterlogged conditions unless significantly improved, as these can cause leaf chlorosis and restrict growth. Keep the soil evenly moist during establishment, then gradually reduce watering as the tree matures.
Is Quercus palustris - Pin Oak Drought tolerant?
As a young tree it requires regular deep watering during establishment. Once established, Pin Oak develops moderate drought tolerance and performs reliably through warm, dry periods when grown in well-drained, acidic soil. Occasional supplementary watering during extended heat helps maintain canopy density and strong seasonal colour.
Approx. 1.3m – 3m
Approx. 1.8m – 4m
Enquire for current heights
Enquire for current heights
Enquire for current heights
Enquire for current heights
Enquire for current heights
Heights are approximate and vary between individual trees.
We take pride in supplying A+ grade advanced trees. When stock at our farm is not yet ready, we work with our trusted trade suppliers to source the best available trees for your garden.
Enriched Planting Mix is a certified organic blend of Pure Magic Compost, composted animal manure, gypsum, composted coarse bark and a wetting agent, bagged in 30L. It is built to be dug through existing garden soil at planting time rather than used on its own, and the gypsum is what sets it apart from a plain compost.
Gypsum helps break up heavy clay so water and roots can move through it, while the compost and manure return organic matter and nutrient to tired ground. The coarse bark holds structure and keeps air around the root zone, and the wetting agent keeps moisture in the soil longer after rain or watering.
Use it when planting trees, shrubs, roses, fruit trees and exotic garden plants, particularly into clay. Dig a hole twice the width of the pot and 7 centimetres deeper, then mix roughly one third planting mix through the excavated soil. Spread 7 centimetres of that improved soil in the base before setting the plant in.
About Enriched Planting Mix
It is a blend of Pure Magic Compost, composted animal manure, gypsum, composted coarse bark and a wetting agent. Each part has a job. The compost and manure supply organic matter and nutrient, the gypsum works on clay structure, the bark keeps air around the roots and the wetting agent holds moisture in the soil.
It suits exotic garden plants, including roses, ornamental and deciduous trees, fruit trees, shrubs and perennials, and it earns its keep most on heavy clay sites. It is a planting mix rather than a potting mix, so its job is improving soil at planting time. Phosphorus sensitive natives are the one clear exception.
No, not for the phosphorus sensitive ones. The composted animal manure in this blend lifts phosphorus well above what Proteaceae such as Banksia, Grevillea, Hakea and Protea will tolerate, and the result can be leaf burn, dieback and plant death. Use the Native Potting Mix for those species, or plant them into unimproved local soil.
Yes. It is a certified organic product with no chemical additives, which is why the manure and compost in it are fully composted rather than raw. That makes it sound around fruit trees and vegetable beds, and it means you are adding genuine organic matter to your soil rather than a synthetic conditioner.
Work on roughly one third planting mix to two thirds of the soil you dug out of the hole. For a shrub out of a 200 millimetre pot that is only a few litres. An advanced tree going into a large hole will take considerably more. Judge the quantity by the volume of the hole rather than the size of the plant.
It is not a potting mix and should not be used on its own in a container. The blend is designed to be diluted through garden soil, and used straight in a pot it holds too much water and settles badly. For containers, reach for a premium potting mix, or the native mix if you are potting natives.
Yes. Water the plant well several hours before you plant it, then water thoroughly again once the hole is backfilled and the soil firmed down. That first deep watering settles the improved soil around the root ball and drives out air pockets. Keep the water up over the first few months while the roots establish.
Enriched Planting Mix is a certified organic blend of Pure Magic Compost, composted animal manure, gypsum, composted coarse bark and a wetting agent, bagged in 30L. It is built to be dug through existing garden soil at planting time rather than used on its own, and the gypsum is what sets it apart from a plain compost.
Gypsum helps break up heavy clay so water and roots can move through it, while the compost and manure return organic matter and nutrient to tired ground. The coarse bark holds structure and keeps air around the root zone, and the wetting agent keeps moisture in the soil longer after rain or watering.
Use it when planting trees, shrubs, roses, fruit trees and exotic garden plants, particularly into clay. Dig a hole twice the width of the pot and 7 centimetres deeper, then mix roughly one third planting mix through the excavated soil. Spread 7 centimetres of that improved soil in the base before setting the plant in.
About Enriched Planting Mix
It is a blend of Pure Magic Compost, composted animal manure, gypsum, composted coarse bark and a wetting agent. Each part has a job. The compost and manure supply organic matter and nutrient, the gypsum works on clay structure, the bark keeps air around the roots and the wetting agent holds moisture in the soil.
It suits exotic garden plants, including roses, ornamental and deciduous trees, fruit trees, shrubs and perennials, and it earns its keep most on heavy clay sites. It is a planting mix rather than a potting mix, so its job is improving soil at planting time. Phosphorus sensitive natives are the one clear exception.
No, not for the phosphorus sensitive ones. The composted animal manure in this blend lifts phosphorus well above what Proteaceae such as Banksia, Grevillea, Hakea and Protea will tolerate, and the result can be leaf burn, dieback and plant death. Use the Native Potting Mix for those species, or plant them into unimproved local soil.
Yes. It is a certified organic product with no chemical additives, which is why the manure and compost in it are fully composted rather than raw. That makes it sound around fruit trees and vegetable beds, and it means you are adding genuine organic matter to your soil rather than a synthetic conditioner.
Work on roughly one third planting mix to two thirds of the soil you dug out of the hole. For a shrub out of a 200 millimetre pot that is only a few litres. An advanced tree going into a large hole will take considerably more. Judge the quantity by the volume of the hole rather than the size of the plant.
It is not a potting mix and should not be used on its own in a container. The blend is designed to be diluted through garden soil, and used straight in a pot it holds too much water and settles badly. For containers, reach for a premium potting mix, or the native mix if you are potting natives.
Yes. Water the plant well several hours before you plant it, then water thoroughly again once the hole is backfilled and the soil firmed down. That first deep watering settles the improved soil around the root ball and drives out air pockets. Keep the water up over the first few months while the roots establish.
Buxus sempervirens English Box Topiary Balls are pre-clipped formal evergreen specimens, available in three mature sizes and ready to place. The tight, fine, dark green foliage holds a precise rounded form year-round and gives the classic formal topiary look that no other Buxus replicates. As one of our most consistently strong-selling products, our English Box topiary balls are well-shaped, well-rooted, and arrive in proportion to the pot size.
English Box performs best in cool to temperate climates and is slow growing at around 15 to 25 cm per year in good conditions, which is exactly why it holds sharp formal shapes so well. It thrives in full sun to part shade with well-drained, slightly acidic to neutral loamy soil, and is frost hardy, drought tolerant once established, and excellent in containers. Two light clips per year, in spring and again in late summer, keep the ball form crisp.
Use them flanking entrances, lining formal pathways, anchoring symmetrical garden beds, defining parterre and knot gardens, and in pairs in classic urns and decorative pots at front doors. Buxus sempervirens is the original topiary plant and remains the benchmark for traditional and contemporary formal design, with a level of finesse and density that fast-growing alternatives cannot replicate.
About Buxus sempervirens English Box Topiary Balls
Our English Box topiary balls arrive pre-clipped and ready to place at the size you order. The 30cm/33cm pots have ball diameters of approximately 30 to 45 cm, the 40cm/45L pots have ball diameters of 40 to 55 cm, and the 50cm/75L pots have ball diameters of 50 to 70 cm. They are well-rooted and in proportion to the pot.
English Box is slow-growing, adding approximately 15 to 25 cm per year once established in good conditions. This slow growth rate is one of the reasons it holds sharp formal shapes so well, and why mature pre-clipped specimens command a premium over seedling-grown stock.
English Box (Buxus sempervirens) has the smallest, finest leaves and the tightest formal texture, ideal for traditional parterres and clipped balls. Japanese Box (Buxus microphylla japonica) has slightly larger leaves, grows faster, and handles heat better. Shaggy Box (Buxus bodinieri) has soft, rounded leaves, much better blight resistance, and is the best choice for humid subtropical climates where English Box can struggle.
English Box performs best in cool to temperate regions including Victoria, the ACT, the NSW Southern Highlands and Central Tablelands, Tasmania, and the elevated parts of South Australia and Western Australia. In humid coastal or hot subtropical regions, consider Buxus bodinieri Shaggy Box or Japanese Box instead for better long-term performance.
Lightly clip in spring and again in late summer or early autumn to maintain the ball shape. Avoid pruning in the heat of summer or during frost periods. Use sharp shears for the cleanest formal finish, and step back regularly to check the symmetry of the form.
Yes. English Box is the classic potted topiary plant and pre-clipped balls look particularly striking in pairs at entrances and on terraces. Use a minimum 30L pot for the 30cm/33cm size and scale up from there, with a quality potting mix and a slow-release fertiliser applied twice yearly.
English Box can be affected by box blight, particularly in humid conditions where foliage stays wet. To reduce risk, ensure good air circulation around each plant, avoid overhead watering, and prune to maintain airflow through the canopy. In high-humidity regions, Buxus bodinieri Shaggy Box is a more disease-resistant alternative.
Ligularia reniformis carries enormous glossy kidney-shaped leaves that give a shaded garden the bold tropical texture usually only available in full sun. The Tractor Seat Plant is grown for foliage first, with tall stems of bright yellow daisy flowers through summer as a bonus.
Ligularia reniformis forms a clump 0.6 to 1 metre tall and 1 to 1.5 metres wide, spreading slowly at 10 to 20 centimetres per year. That steady habit makes it reliable as a mass underplanting beneath established trees, an edging along a shaded path, or a single specimen in a large pot.
This is a full shade plant. It wants consistent moisture and protection from hot afternoon sun, which scorches the leaves, and it is frost sensitive, so in cold districts it needs a protected position. Given shade and water it is close to maintenance free.
About Ligularia reniformis
It forms a clump 0.6 to 1 metre tall and 1 to 1.5 metres wide. The individual leaves can reach 40 centimetres across, which is where the bold texture comes from.
The common name comes from the large round kidney-shaped leaves, which resemble the seat of an old tractor. The botanical name reniformis means kidney-shaped.
Yes. It performs best in full shade and will scorch in hot afternoon sun. It is one of the most useful foliage plants available for genuinely dark positions.
Tall stems of bright yellow daisy-like flowers rise well above the foliage through summer. The foliage remains the main feature for the rest of the year.
No. It is frost sensitive and may be damaged by frost. In cold districts plant it in a protected position, or grow it in a pot that can be moved under cover.
It wants consistently moist soil and does not tolerate drying out. Mulch well and water regularly through summer, particularly in pots and under established trees where roots compete.
Plant 0.8 to 1 metre apart for a continuous shaded groundcover mass. Closer spacing fills in faster but the clumps will crowd within a few seasons.
Rhaphiolepis indica 'Oriental Pearl' is one of the best compact evergreen shrubs available for low hedges and borders. The glossy dark green foliage forms a naturally tidy rounded mound, and clusters of soft white to pale pink flowers appear from late winter into spring, followed by small dark berries.
Oriental Pearl grows to just 1-1.5 metres tall and wide, holding a neat uniform shape with minimal pruning. The compact form makes it ideal for low clipped hedges, narrow borders, mass plantings, and container planting, particularly where space is limited and a formal finish is wanted.
Oriental Pearl thrives across most Australian climates in full sun to part shade, tolerating heat, coastal exposure, salt spray, light frost, and a wide range of well-drained soils. It is both drought tolerant and salt tolerant once established, making it a reliable low-maintenance choice for coastal and low-water gardens.
About Rhaphiolepis indica 'Oriental Pearl'
Rhaphiolepis indica 'Oriental Pearl' grows to 1-1.5 metres tall and wide, forming a naturally compact dense mound.
Oriental Pearl has a moderate growth rate of 20-40cm per year once established.
Yes. Oriental Pearl is one of the best compact evergreen shrubs for low hedges, borders, and mass plantings, holding a tidy rounded form with minimal pruning.
Oriental Pearl produces clusters of soft white to pale pink flowers from late winter into spring, followed by small dark berries.
Yes. Oriental Pearl is both drought tolerant and salt tolerant once established, making it well suited to coastal gardens and low-water landscapes.
Plant 50-70cm apart for a continuous low hedge, or 80cm-1 metre for a softer informal border.
Oriental Pearl thrives across most Australian climates in full sun to part shade, tolerating heat, coastal exposure, and a wide range of well-drained soils.
Pittosporum tenuifolium 'Silver Sheen' carries small shimmering silver-green leaves on near-black stems, giving a light airy screen that moves in the wind rather than reading as a solid green wall. It is one of the most widely specified screening plants in Australian landscape design for exactly that reason.
'Silver Sheen' grows to 4 to 6 metres tall but only 1.5 to 2 metres wide at 30 to 60 centimetres per year, which makes it a genuine solution for narrow beds along fence lines and between buildings where height is needed but width is not available. Small cream flowers appear in spring and are lightly fragrant.
'Silver Sheen' grows in full sun to part shade and tolerates light to moderate frost once established, performing from subtropical Queensland through Sydney, Melbourne, Gippsland and Adelaide. It clips well, holds density under regular trimming, and is equally effective as a formal hedge or a loose screen.
About Pittosporum tenuifolium 'Silver Sheen'
'Silver Sheen' grows to 4 to 6 metres tall and only 1.5 to 2 metres wide, which makes it one of the best options for narrow screening where a tall hedge is needed in a shallow bed.
It grows at 30 to 60 centimetres per year once established, reaching a usable screening height within three to four years with regular water and feeding.
It naturally holds to 1.5 to 2 metres wide and can be trimmed to under a metre with regular clipping, which is why it is so often used in tight side-boundary positions.
Plant 1 to 1.5 metres apart for a dense informal screen, or 80 centimetres apart for a tighter formal hedge. Closer spacing fills in faster but needs more trimming.
'Silver Sheen' handles light to moderate frost once established. Young plants benefit from protection through their first winter in colder inland districts.
Yes. It performs in full sun through to part shade. In shadier positions growth is slightly more open, which suits a softer informal screen.
It performs from subtropical Queensland through Northern NSW, Sydney, the South Coast and tablelands, Melbourne and surrounds, the Western District, Gippsland and Adelaide.
Correa alba, the White Correa, is a compact evergreen Australian native grown for soft felted grey-green leaves and small white star flowers. The flowers come through autumn and winter, when little else is out.
It forms a dense rounded shrub 1 to 2 metres tall and wide. That habit suits low informal hedges, borders, mass planting and underplanting beneath taller trees, and it takes clipping well enough to hold a formal shape.
It is one of the most salt tolerant shrubs in the trade, growing wild on exposed headlands and dunes from New South Wales through Victoria, Tasmania and South Australia. Salt wind, sand and poor soil are its normal conditions. Add drought and light frost tolerance and it is the obvious choice for a beachfront garden where Buxus and Lilly Pilly burn.
We carry it in two forms. The natural form is supplied unshaped, for hedging, borders and mass planting. The Ball Form is the same plant clipped into a formal sphere over several seasons and arrives finished. Salt tolerant formal topiary is rare, so a native ball does what Buxus cannot in a coastal garden, and two light clips a year hold the shape.
About Correa alba White Correa
1 to 2 metres tall and wide as a natural rounded shrub, putting on 30 to 60 centimetres a year. A clipped ball stays at whatever size you trim it to, usually held between 50 and 80 centimetres across.
Same plant, different training. The natural form is supplied unshaped, for a hedge, border, mass planting or an informal rounded shrub. The Ball Form is grown on and clipped over several seasons into a formal sphere, and arrives finished rather than as something you shape yourself.
Salt and drought. Buxus wants moisture and shelter and burns in exposed coastal positions. Correa alba comes off the headlands and handles salt wind, sand and dry spells. The foliage is grey-green rather than dark glossy green, and it flowers, which Buxus does not usefully.
Small white star flowers appear from autumn through winter into spring, heaviest over the cooler months. That timing feeds honeyeaters and native bees when little else is in bloom. On clipped balls, trim after the main flush so you do not remove the display.
It is among the most salt tolerant native shrubs available and grows naturally on exposed cliffs and dunes. Sandy free draining soil and salt spray are its normal conditions. Drainage matters far more to it than soil richness.
60 to 80 centimetres apart for a low informal hedge, or 1 metre apart for mass planting where each plant keeps its own rounded shape. Balls repeated down a path sit well at 1 to 1.5 metres apart.
Yes, and the Ball Form in a container suits an entrance, courtyard or balcony. Use a pot at least 40 centimetres across with a free draining mix, and never let it stand in a saucer of water.
Water through the first two summers, then only in prolonged dry spells. Feed once in spring with a low phosphorus native fertiliser, as correas belong to the citrus family and resent high phosphorus blends. Trim lightly after flowering for a natural shrub, or twice a year taking only soft new growth to hold a ball.
Melaleuca nesophila, the Showy Honey Myrtle, is an evergreen Australian native shrub to small tree from the south coast of Western Australia. Fine grey green foliage sits on a dense rounded frame over papery bark, and mauve to pink pom pom flowers cover the outer growth through spring and summer.
Mature width is 2 to 4 metres, with height usually settling around 3 to 5 metres, and growth of 30 to 60 centimetres a year. It wants full sun and takes sand, limestone, gravel and moderately heavy soils. Salt wind, drought and light to moderate frost are all handled once the roots are down.
This is a screening and hedging plant first, used along boundaries, on coastal blocks and through council road reserves where conditions are hard and maintenance budgets are thin. Space it at 1 to 1.5 metres for an informal screen. It gives colour, density and habitat value from one low input plant.
About Showy Honey Myrtle
Melaleuca nesophila, or Showy Honey Myrtle, is an evergreen Australian native shrub to small tree from southern Western Australia. It has fine grey green foliage, a dense rounded habit and soft papery bark, and carries mauve to pink pom pom flowers through spring and summer that age to a soft grey.
It spreads 2 to 4 metres wide and generally reaches 3 to 5 metres tall in a garden, though regular trimming will hold it lower. Growth is moderate to fast at around 30 to 60 centimetres a year, so a screen planted from advanced stock closes over within three or four seasons.
For a dense informal screen, plant 1 to 1.5 metres apart. For a tighter formal hedge, bring that in to 80 centimetres. As a feature tree, allow 3 to 4 metres so the full canopy and form can develop, or 3 metres apart along an avenue for a uniform, soft textured line.
Yes, it is one of the better coastal Melaleucas. It tolerates salt laden wind, sandy and limestone soils, and exposed front line positions once established, which is why it is planted so widely along the southern coastline. In very exposed sites it will lean with the prevailing wind, and most people like the result.
The main flush runs through spring and into summer, roughly September to January. Flowers open mauve to purple pink in dense rounded heads across the outer foliage, then age to grey and stay on the plant. Bees and honeyeaters work it heavily while it is out, so expect plenty of activity.
It handles light to moderate frost once established, which covers most coastal and near coastal parts of southern Australia. Young plants are more vulnerable in their first winter, so plant in autumn or early spring and keep them out of low frost hollows. Hard, repeated inland frost will burn new growth.
Tip prune after flowering to keep it dense and stop the base going bare. It takes a hard cut back if it becomes leggy, though remove no more than about a third at a time. Water through the first summer, then it is largely self sufficient. Use a low phosphorus native fertiliser in spring on poor soils.
Trachelospermum jasminoides 'Balls' is Star Jasmine grown and clipped into a dense evergreen sphere. The small glossy leaves sit tight on a woody framework, holding a clean rounded outline year round. White pinwheel flowers open in spring and carry a strong sweet scent right across a courtyard.
Ball specimens hold at about 1 to 1.5 metres tall and wide with light clipping. Full sun to part shade suits them, in any free draining soil. Growth is slow to moderate at 30 to 50 centimetres a year. They handle coastal exposure, light frost and dry spells once the roots are down.
Repeat them along a driveway, either side of an entry, or in pots on a terrace where a formal shape is wanted straight away. They read as structure in a planting scheme without the height of a hedge, and because the form is already trained, a new garden looks settled from the day it goes in.
About Star Jasmine Balls
They are Trachelospermum jasminoides, the common Star Jasmine, grown and clipped into a dense evergreen sphere on a woody framework. Instead of climbing, the plant is trained into a self supporting rounded shape. The foliage is small, glossy and dark green, and the plant carries scented white flowers through spring.
They hold at roughly 1 to 1.5 metres tall and 1 to 1.5 metres wide. Growth is slow to moderate at 30 to 50 centimetres a year, so a light clip once or twice a year keeps the ball tight at whatever size within that range suits the setting.
Full sun to part shade both work. Full sun gives the densest foliage and the heaviest flowering, while part shade produces slightly softer, more open growth and fewer flowers. Avoid deep shade, where the ball thins out and loses its outline. Morning sun with afternoon protection suits hot inland gardens.
Yes, and pots are one of the main uses. A container 50 to 60 centimetres wide with a quality free draining mix will hold a ball for years. Water more often than you would in the ground, especially in summer, and feed in spring and again in late summer. Refresh the mix every few years.
Yes, the foliage is held year round. The glossy dark green leaves take on a bronze tinge in cold weather and green up again in spring, but the plant never goes bare. That is what makes it useful as permanent structure in a scheme, particularly in winter once perennials have died back.
Flowering runs through spring, roughly September to November, and often carries into early summer in warmer districts. The white pinwheel flowers are small but produced in quantity, and the scent is strong on still evenings. Flowering is heaviest on plants in full sun that were not clipped hard just before bud set.
Clip lightly with hedging shears once after flowering and again in late summer if needed, taking only the new growth to keep the outline crisp. Water deeply in dry weather, mulch the base, and feed in early spring. The sap is milky and can irritate skin, so wear gloves when trimming.
Quercus robur is the tree you plant for the next century. The English Oak builds a massive broad-spreading canopy of deeply lobed leaves that turn clear gold in autumn, and routinely lives for several hundred years, which makes it the definitive legacy planting for an estate or public park.
Quercus robur grows to 15 to 30 metres tall and 15 to 20 metres wide at a deliberate 20 to 40 centimetres per year. The slow rate builds dense durable timber and a structurally sound frame, and it means the tree needs genuine space from the outset rather than being squeezed into a suburban block.
This is a frost hardy tree that survives heavy and frequent frost without damage, and it colours best where autumns are cold. It grows in full sun, tolerates a wide range of soils including heavy clay, and once established requires nothing beyond room to develop.
About Quercus robur
The English Oak reaches 15 to 30 metres tall and 15 to 20 metres wide. It is a very large tree suited to parkland, estates and acreage rather than suburban gardens.
It grows slowly at 20 to 40 centimetres per year. That slow rate is what produces its dense timber, structural strength and exceptional lifespan.
Quercus robur routinely lives 300 to 500 years and specimens over 800 years are documented. It is one of the longest-lived trees that can be grown in Australia.
Yes. Foliage turns clear golden-yellow through autumn before dropping. Colour is strongest in districts with genuinely cold autumn nights.
Yes. It survives heavy and frequent frost without damage and performs reliably in cold inland tablelands districts.
Plant 12 to 15 metres apart for an avenue where canopies will eventually meet. Keep them at least 15 metres from buildings, paving and services.
It is highly adaptable, tolerating heavy clay, loam and moderately alkaline soils. Deep soil with reasonable drainage gives the best long-term growth.
Quercus rubra, the Northern Red Oak, is a fast-growing deciduous oak with a broad symmetrical canopy and strong architectural presence. Its dark green deeply lobed leaves bring rich texture through the growing season, then transform into a spectacular autumn display of maroon, red and golden-brown.
Northern Red Oak grows to 15-25 metres tall and 12-18 metres wide. It establishes faster than most oaks, making it ideal where quick canopy development and shade are wanted in large gardens, parks, and avenue plantings. The straight trunk and neat form also suit formal streetscapes and civic landscapes.
Northern Red Oak performs best in cool to temperate regions including VIC, NSW, ACT, Tasmania, and elevated parts of SA and WA, in full sun with well-drained soil. It tolerates urban conditions, clay soils, and moderate drought once established, and is low maintenance with moderate watering needs.
About Quercus rubra Northern Red Oak
Quercus rubra grows to 15-25 metres tall and 12-18 metres wide with a broad rounded canopy.
Northern Red Oak is one of the faster-growing oaks, adding 50-80cm per year once established.
The large lobed foliage turns rich russet-red and bronze in autumn (April to June across southern Australia) before dropping in winter.
Yes. Northern Red Oak is fully deciduous, dropping its autumn foliage in winter to reveal a strong branching structure.
Northern Red Oak suits large gardens, parks, and avenue planting due to its mature size. Allow plenty of room for the broad canopy to develop.
Northern Red Oak performs best in cool to temperate regions including VIC, NSW, ACT, Tasmania, and elevated parts of SA and WA.
Plant 8-12 metres apart for a full canopy avenue, given the broad mature spread of the tree.
Liquidambar styraciflua, the Sweetgum, is one of the most spectacular autumn-colour trees available for Australian gardens. The glossy star-shaped foliage holds rich green through summer, then transitions to a brilliant blend of yellow, orange, red and deep burgundy in autumn, often holding colour for several weeks.
Sweetgum grows to 12-20 metres tall and 8-12 metres wide with an upright pyramidal form that broadens with age. The straight trunk, strong branching, and dependable colour make it an excellent shade tree and feature specimen for medium to large gardens, parks, and avenue plantings.
Sweetgum performs best in cool to temperate regions including VIC, NSW, ACT, Tasmania, and elevated parts of SA and WA, where cool autumns produce the strongest colour. It tolerates frost and moderate drought once established. Keep it clear of paving, as the spiky seed pods drop in autumn.
About Liquidambar styraciflua Sweetgum
Liquidambar styraciflua grows to 12-20 metres tall and 8-12 metres wide with an upright pyramidal form that broadens with age.
Sweetgum is moderately fast-growing, adding 60cm to 1 metre per year once established.
Glossy green star-shaped foliage transitions to a spectacular blend of yellow, orange, red and deep burgundy in autumn (April to June across southern Australia), often holding colour for several weeks.
Yes. Sweetgum is fully deciduous, dropping its colourful autumn foliage in winter to reveal a sculptural branching structure.
Sweetgum suits medium to large gardens, parks, and street planting due to its mature size. Allow room for the canopy and keep it clear of paving, as the spiky seed pods drop in autumn.
Sweetgum performs best in cool to temperate regions including VIC, NSW, ACT, Tasmania, and elevated parts of SA and WA, where cool autumns produce the strongest colour.
Plant 5-8 metres apart for a full canopy avenue, or 4 metres for a denser shade screen.
Ulmus parvifolia, the Chinese Elm, is a semi deciduous shade tree with a vase shaped crown and gracefully arching outer branches. The small glossy serrated leaves turn yellow through bronze before falling, and the trunk sheds patches of bark to leave a mottled pattern of grey, cream and tan.
It reaches up to 15 metres tall and 8 to 10 metres wide, adding roughly 50 to 80 centimetres a year. Full sun to part shade suits it, in any reasonably drained soil. Once established it handles frost, drought, wind, salt spray and the compacted ground of urban sites.
Councils and landscapers use it as a street tree, a car park tree and a shade tree in parks, and it works in larger home gardens where a broad canopy is wanted. Formative pruning over the first few years sets the branch structure, after which it asks very little.
About Chinese Elm
Ulmus parvifolia is a semi deciduous shade tree from China, Korea and Japan, grown here for its vase shaped crown, small glossy serrated leaves and mottled bark that flakes away to reveal cream and tan patches. It is one of the more urban tolerant deciduous trees available in Australia and is planted widely in streets and parks.
It reaches up to 15 metres tall with a canopy 8 to 10 metres wide in good conditions. In restricted street plantings and shallow soils it usually settles well short of that. Allow at least 8 metres of clear space around the trunk if you want the full arching form to develop.
Around 50 to 80 centimetres a year, which is moderate to fast for a deciduous shade tree. Growth is quickest in the first ten years and slows as the crown broadens. Advanced trees in larger containers give a usable canopy sooner, which matters on projects where shade is wanted early.
It is semi deciduous. In cool districts it drops its leaves properly through winter after colouring yellow and bronze. In warmer coastal and subtropical areas it often holds much of its foliage, shedding briefly in late winter as the new leaves push through. Either way the bare period is short.
Yes. It tolerates salt laden wind better than most deciduous trees, which is why it turns up in beachside streetscapes along the east coast. Plant it behind the first line of dunes rather than in full frontal exposure, and water it through the first two summers while the roots establish.
Its roots are less aggressive than those of many large elms, but it is still a substantial tree. Keep it at least 4 to 5 metres from house footings, paving and service trenches, and further again from older drainage lines. In street verges use a root barrier or a structural soil cell.
Water deeply through the first two summers, mulch out to the drip line and keep the mulch off the trunk. Prune in late winter while the tree is bare, removing crossing limbs and lifting the canopy over paths. Once established it needs little beyond an occasional check for deadwood.
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Quercus palustris delivers the most reliable autumn colour of any oak grown in Australia, turning deep scarlet through bronze across a canopy of deeply lobed glossy leaves. The Pin Oak is also the fastest of the oaks, which removes the usual objection to planting one.
Quercus palustris grows to 15 to 25 metres tall and 9 to 15 metres wide at 60 to 90 centimetres per year, holding a strong pyramidal form with a straight central leader and distinctive downswept lower branches. It is a standard choice for avenues, parkland and large-scale civic shade planting.
This is a frost hardy tree that survives heavy and frequent frost without damage, and it colours best where autumn nights are genuinely cold. It grows in full sun, tolerates wet ground better than most oaks, and handles compacted urban soils.
About Quercus palustris
The Pin Oak reaches 15 to 25 metres tall and 9 to 15 metres wide. It is a large shade tree suited to parkland, avenues and acreage rather than small suburban blocks.
It grows at 60 to 90 centimetres per year, which makes it the fastest of the commonly grown oaks and the most practical where shade is needed within a reasonable timeframe.
Foliage turns deep scarlet through bronze in autumn and holds well before dropping. Colour is most intense in districts with cold autumn nights, such as the tablelands and inland Victoria.
Yes. It is fully deciduous, though young trees often hold dry brown foliage through winter, dropping it as new growth emerges in spring.
Yes. Quercus palustris naturally occurs on bottomland and floodplain sites and tolerates periodically wet, heavy soils better than most oaks.
Plant 8 to 10 metres apart for an avenue where canopies will eventually meet, and at least 10 metres from buildings, paving and services.
Yes. It survives heavy and frequent frost without damage and performs reliably in cold inland districts, where it also colours best.
