Most loved for its ancient character, gnarled trunk, and silvery evergreen foliage, making it a timeless feature tree for Mediterranean-style landscapes.
Approximate only. Minimum height important? Confirm with us.
Height guide & disclaimer
Height guide disclaimer: Height ranges are approximate only. As living products, plant heights naturally vary between individual plants, batches, and seasons. No guarantee is given that supplied plants will fall within the stated range. If minimum heights are required, you must confirm current batch heights with Evergreen Trees Direct prior to purchase. Variation in height is normal and is not grounds for return, refund, replacement, or compensation.
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Olea europaea, the common olive, is a slow-growing evergreen with a dense rounded crown and leathery silver-green leaves. These are mature field-grown specimens carrying the thick, characterful trunks that only come with age. Small white flowers appear in spring, followed by fruit that ripens from autumn into winter.
Full sun and well-drained, neutral to alkaline soil suit it best. Annual growth is slow at 20 to 40 centimetres, and mature size sits at 4 to 10 metres tall and 4 to 10 metres wide. Frost tolerant once established, it handles light to moderate frost and is very drought hardy through Mediterranean and temperate Australia.
Trees of this size do the work of a landscape immediately, anchoring courtyards, entries, resort gardens and civic plantings. Space feature trees 3 to 4 metres apart, or 3 metres for an avenue. Where a garden needs weight and age from the first day, a mature olive is the shortest way there.
About Olive Tree (Ex Ground)
Ex ground means the tree has been grown in open ground rather than a container, then lifted with its root ball for transplanting. Field growing produces heavier trunks and better proportioned canopies than pot culture, which is why mature specimen olives are grown this way. Crated and cloud-pruned forms are offered alongside the standard grades.
Mature size is 4 to 10 metres tall and 4 to 10 metres wide, depending on age, soil and pruning. Ex ground specimens are already well advanced, typically standing 3.2 to 5.5 metres, so most of the height is there from the outset. Ongoing pruning can hold them at whatever size the site allows.
Olives are slow growers, putting on roughly 20 to 40 centimetres a year once settled, and less in dry or poor conditions. That slow rate is why mature trunks command attention and why an advanced specimen is the usual way to get an established look. It also means a planted olive stays in scale for decades.
Yes. Olea europaea sets small white flowers in spring and fruit that ripens through autumn and winter. Trees generally begin bearing three to five years after planting, though some take ten years or more before cropping properly. Fruit drop can stain paving, so set trees back from light-coloured hard surfaces if that matters.
Established olives handle light to moderate frost without damage and are grown through the cooler inland districts of Victoria, South Australia and New South Wales. Hard, repeated frost can burn young growth, and newly planted trees are the most exposed. Warm dry summers and cool winters are the conditions this species evolved for.
Large olives can be grown in containers, though a tree of this size needs a substantial pot, at least 800 millimetres across and equally deep, with free-draining mix and reliable irrigation. Growth slows further and the canopy stays smaller. Root prune and refresh the mix every three to four years to keep the tree healthy.
Water deeply and infrequently through the first two years while roots move into the surrounding soil, then only in long dry spells. Prune in late winter to keep the centre open and the shape balanced, and remove suckers from the base. Feed annually in spring. Avoid constant watering and poorly drained ground.
| Pot / bag size | Width | Depth |
|---|---|---|
| 30cm Pot | 33cm | 30cm |
| 40cm/45L Pot | 44cm | 41.5cm |
| 50cm Pot / 70L Pot | 55cm | 41.8cm |
| 100L Bag | 50.6cm | 52.8cm |
| 150L Bag | 66cm | 55cm |
| 200L Bag | 71.5cm | 60.5cm |
| 300L Bag | 88cm | 63.8cm |
| 400L Bag | 99cm | 66cm |
| 500L Bag | 122cm | 66cm |
| 750L Bag | 134cm | 69cm |
| 1000L Bag | 146.3cm | 71.5cm |
| 2000L Bag | 176cm | 82.5cm |
General planting reference from our existing size guide. Actual containers can vary by supplier and batch; confirm exact dimensions if required.
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Enter the length of your boundary, then choose how closely you want to plant.
Enter your boundary length to see how many trees you need.
Measure only the boundary you intend to plant—exclude gates and gaps. Spacing is centre to centre. Quantities are rounded up for one row, allowing roughly half the spacing at each end. Site conditions and pruning affect the final hedge.
Olea europaea, the common olive, is a slow-growing evergreen with a dense rounded crown and leathery silver-green leaves. These are mature field-grown specimens carrying the thick, characterful trunks that only come with age. Small white flowers appear in spring, followed by fruit that ripens from autumn into winter.
Full sun and well-drained, neutral to alkaline soil suit it best. Annual growth is slow at 20 to 40 centimetres, and mature size sits at 4 to 10 metres tall and 4 to 10 metres wide. Frost tolerant once established, it handles light to moderate frost and is very drought hardy through Mediterranean and temperate Australia.
Trees of this size do the work of a landscape immediately, anchoring courtyards, entries, resort gardens and civic plantings. Space feature trees 3 to 4 metres apart, or 3 metres for an avenue. Where a garden needs weight and age from the first day, a mature olive is the shortest way there.
About Olive Tree (Ex Ground)
Ex ground means the tree has been grown in open ground rather than a container, then lifted with its root ball for transplanting. Field growing produces heavier trunks and better proportioned canopies than pot culture, which is why mature specimen olives are grown this way. Crated and cloud-pruned forms are offered alongside the standard grades.
Mature size is 4 to 10 metres tall and 4 to 10 metres wide, depending on age, soil and pruning. Ex ground specimens are already well advanced, typically standing 3.2 to 5.5 metres, so most of the height is there from the outset. Ongoing pruning can hold them at whatever size the site allows.
Olives are slow growers, putting on roughly 20 to 40 centimetres a year once settled, and less in dry or poor conditions. That slow rate is why mature trunks command attention and why an advanced specimen is the usual way to get an established look. It also means a planted olive stays in scale for decades.
Yes. Olea europaea sets small white flowers in spring and fruit that ripens through autumn and winter. Trees generally begin bearing three to five years after planting, though some take ten years or more before cropping properly. Fruit drop can stain paving, so set trees back from light-coloured hard surfaces if that matters.
Established olives handle light to moderate frost without damage and are grown through the cooler inland districts of Victoria, South Australia and New South Wales. Hard, repeated frost can burn young growth, and newly planted trees are the most exposed. Warm dry summers and cool winters are the conditions this species evolved for.
Large olives can be grown in containers, though a tree of this size needs a substantial pot, at least 800 millimetres across and equally deep, with free-draining mix and reliable irrigation. Growth slows further and the canopy stays smaller. Root prune and refresh the mix every three to four years to keep the tree healthy.
Water deeply and infrequently through the first two years while roots move into the surrounding soil, then only in long dry spells. Prune in late winter to keep the centre open and the shape balanced, and remove suckers from the base. Feed annually in spring. Avoid constant watering and poorly drained ground.
Evergreen (foliage year round)
Olea europaea - Olive Tree (Ex Ground) is expected to grow 20cm to 40cm per year (approx.).
Olea europaea - Olive Tree (Ex Ground) works in an:
Olea europaea - Olive Tree (Ex Ground) is an Evergreen (foliage year round) Tree
Mature Height: 5m to 15m (approx.) (can be larger if unpruned)
Mature Width: 4m to 10m
Olea europaea - Olive Tree (Ex Ground) is expected to grow 20cm to 40cm per year (approx.).
Olea europaea - Olive Tree (Ex Ground) is expected to grow 20cm to 40cm per year (approx.).
They are considered to have a:
Is Olea europaea - Olive Tree (Ex Ground) frost tolerant?
Olea europaea - Olive Tree (Ex Ground) is Frost Tolerant – Can handle light to moderate frost once established.
Olea europaea produces clusters of small, creamy-white, lightly fragrant flowers in late spring to early summer. These subtle blossoms sit among the silvery-green foliage and are followed by traditional Mediterranean-style olives, creating a classic and understated seasonal display.
Does Olea europaea - Olive Tree (Ex Ground) flower?
Flowering Period:
Flower Type:
Flower Colour:
White
No
Olea europaea - Olive Tree (Ex Ground) is Native to The Mediterranean basin, including southern Europe, North Africa, and the Middle East, where olives have been cultivated for thousands of years.
Its nectar-bearing blooms attract bees and beneficial pollinating insects, while the ripening olives provide a seasonal food source for birds. The dense, spreading canopy also offers perching, shelter and habitat structure, contributing modest biodiversity support in Mediterranean, coastal and urban gardens.
Olea europaea - Olive Tree (Ex Ground) will thrive best in:
Olea europaea performs best in well-drained sandy or loam soils and prefers neutral to slightly alkaline conditions, though it will tolerate mildly acidic ground. Ex-ground specimens benefit from loose, friable soil with excellent drainage to minimise transplant stress. Improve heavy clay with coarse material and organic matter to increase drainage and aeration. Keep soil evenly moist during re-establishment, then transition to deep, infrequent watering as the tree matures to support strong root recovery, evergreen health and consistent fruiting.
Is Olea europaea - Olive Tree (Ex Ground) Drought tolerant?
As a young transplant it requires consistent watering to settle new roots, but once fully established the Olive Tree develops excellent drought tolerance. Naturally adapted to hot, dry climates, it maintains strong evergreen growth and reliable fruiting with only occasional deep watering during extended dry periods.
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Heights are approximate and vary between individual trees.
We take pride in supplying A+ grade advanced trees. When stock at our farm is not yet ready, we work with our trusted trade suppliers to source the best available trees for your garden.
Enriched Planting Mix is a certified organic blend of Pure Magic Compost, composted animal manure, gypsum, composted coarse bark and a wetting agent, bagged in 30L. It is built to be dug through existing garden soil at planting time rather than used on its own, and the gypsum is what sets it apart from a plain compost.
Gypsum helps break up heavy clay so water and roots can move through it, while the compost and manure return organic matter and nutrient to tired ground. The coarse bark holds structure and keeps air around the root zone, and the wetting agent keeps moisture in the soil longer after rain or watering.
Use it when planting trees, shrubs, roses, fruit trees and exotic garden plants, particularly into clay. Dig a hole twice the width of the pot and 7 centimetres deeper, then mix roughly one third planting mix through the excavated soil. Spread 7 centimetres of that improved soil in the base before setting the plant in.
About Enriched Planting Mix
It is a blend of Pure Magic Compost, composted animal manure, gypsum, composted coarse bark and a wetting agent. Each part has a job. The compost and manure supply organic matter and nutrient, the gypsum works on clay structure, the bark keeps air around the roots and the wetting agent holds moisture in the soil.
It suits exotic garden plants, including roses, ornamental and deciduous trees, fruit trees, shrubs and perennials, and it earns its keep most on heavy clay sites. It is a planting mix rather than a potting mix, so its job is improving soil at planting time. Phosphorus sensitive natives are the one clear exception.
No, not for the phosphorus sensitive ones. The composted animal manure in this blend lifts phosphorus well above what Proteaceae such as Banksia, Grevillea, Hakea and Protea will tolerate, and the result can be leaf burn, dieback and plant death. Use the Native Potting Mix for those species, or plant them into unimproved local soil.
Yes. It is a certified organic product with no chemical additives, which is why the manure and compost in it are fully composted rather than raw. That makes it sound around fruit trees and vegetable beds, and it means you are adding genuine organic matter to your soil rather than a synthetic conditioner.
Work on roughly one third planting mix to two thirds of the soil you dug out of the hole. For a shrub out of a 200 millimetre pot that is only a few litres. An advanced tree going into a large hole will take considerably more. Judge the quantity by the volume of the hole rather than the size of the plant.
It is not a potting mix and should not be used on its own in a container. The blend is designed to be diluted through garden soil, and used straight in a pot it holds too much water and settles badly. For containers, reach for a premium potting mix, or the native mix if you are potting natives.
Yes. Water the plant well several hours before you plant it, then water thoroughly again once the hole is backfilled and the soil firmed down. That first deep watering settles the improved soil around the root ball and drives out air pockets. Keep the water up over the first few months while the roots establish.
Enriched Planting Mix is a certified organic blend of Pure Magic Compost, composted animal manure, gypsum, composted coarse bark and a wetting agent, bagged in 30L. It is built to be dug through existing garden soil at planting time rather than used on its own, and the gypsum is what sets it apart from a plain compost.
Gypsum helps break up heavy clay so water and roots can move through it, while the compost and manure return organic matter and nutrient to tired ground. The coarse bark holds structure and keeps air around the root zone, and the wetting agent keeps moisture in the soil longer after rain or watering.
Use it when planting trees, shrubs, roses, fruit trees and exotic garden plants, particularly into clay. Dig a hole twice the width of the pot and 7 centimetres deeper, then mix roughly one third planting mix through the excavated soil. Spread 7 centimetres of that improved soil in the base before setting the plant in.
About Enriched Planting Mix
It is a blend of Pure Magic Compost, composted animal manure, gypsum, composted coarse bark and a wetting agent. Each part has a job. The compost and manure supply organic matter and nutrient, the gypsum works on clay structure, the bark keeps air around the roots and the wetting agent holds moisture in the soil.
It suits exotic garden plants, including roses, ornamental and deciduous trees, fruit trees, shrubs and perennials, and it earns its keep most on heavy clay sites. It is a planting mix rather than a potting mix, so its job is improving soil at planting time. Phosphorus sensitive natives are the one clear exception.
No, not for the phosphorus sensitive ones. The composted animal manure in this blend lifts phosphorus well above what Proteaceae such as Banksia, Grevillea, Hakea and Protea will tolerate, and the result can be leaf burn, dieback and plant death. Use the Native Potting Mix for those species, or plant them into unimproved local soil.
Yes. It is a certified organic product with no chemical additives, which is why the manure and compost in it are fully composted rather than raw. That makes it sound around fruit trees and vegetable beds, and it means you are adding genuine organic matter to your soil rather than a synthetic conditioner.
Work on roughly one third planting mix to two thirds of the soil you dug out of the hole. For a shrub out of a 200 millimetre pot that is only a few litres. An advanced tree going into a large hole will take considerably more. Judge the quantity by the volume of the hole rather than the size of the plant.
It is not a potting mix and should not be used on its own in a container. The blend is designed to be diluted through garden soil, and used straight in a pot it holds too much water and settles badly. For containers, reach for a premium potting mix, or the native mix if you are potting natives.
Yes. Water the plant well several hours before you plant it, then water thoroughly again once the hole is backfilled and the soil firmed down. That first deep watering settles the improved soil around the root ball and drives out air pockets. Keep the water up over the first few months while the roots establish.
Pittosporum tenuifolium 'Silver Sheen' carries small shimmering silver-green leaves on near-black stems, giving a light airy screen that moves in the wind rather than reading as a solid green wall. It is one of the most widely specified screening plants in Australian landscape design for exactly that reason.
'Silver Sheen' grows to 4 to 6 metres tall but only 1.5 to 2 metres wide at 30 to 60 centimetres per year, which makes it a genuine solution for narrow beds along fence lines and between buildings where height is needed but width is not available. Small cream flowers appear in spring and are lightly fragrant.
'Silver Sheen' grows in full sun to part shade and tolerates light to moderate frost once established, performing from subtropical Queensland through Sydney, Melbourne, Gippsland and Adelaide. It clips well, holds density under regular trimming, and is equally effective as a formal hedge or a loose screen.
About Pittosporum tenuifolium 'Silver Sheen'
'Silver Sheen' grows to 4 to 6 metres tall and only 1.5 to 2 metres wide, which makes it one of the best options for narrow screening where a tall hedge is needed in a shallow bed.
It grows at 30 to 60 centimetres per year once established, reaching a usable screening height within three to four years with regular water and feeding.
It naturally holds to 1.5 to 2 metres wide and can be trimmed to under a metre with regular clipping, which is why it is so often used in tight side-boundary positions.
Plant 1 to 1.5 metres apart for a dense informal screen, or 80 centimetres apart for a tighter formal hedge. Closer spacing fills in faster but needs more trimming.
'Silver Sheen' handles light to moderate frost once established. Young plants benefit from protection through their first winter in colder inland districts.
Yes. It performs in full sun through to part shade. In shadier positions growth is slightly more open, which suits a softer informal screen.
It performs from subtropical Queensland through Northern NSW, Sydney, the South Coast and tablelands, Melbourne and surrounds, the Western District, Gippsland and Adelaide.
Buxus microphylla var. japonica, sold as Japanese Box, is a dense evergreen shrub clipped here into clean topiary balls. The small, rounded, mid green leaves sit tightly along short stems, so the surface holds a crisp edge after cutting. Growth is naturally compact, which is what allows the ball shape to hold between trims.
It grows in full sun to part shade and accepts most soils that drain, from sandy loam through to improved clay. Cool temperate, temperate and subtropical districts all suit it, and established plants handle light to moderate frost. Growth runs about 15 to 25 centimetres a year, slow enough that the shape stays where you put it.
Balls are used to edge beds and paths, mark an entry, sit either side of a doorway, or repeat down a courtyard to give a planting rhythm. They also underplant feature trees neatly. Because the form arrives already grown, a bed reads finished from the day it goes in rather than years later.
About Japanese Box Topiary Balls
It is Buxus microphylla var. japonica grown on and clipped into a sphere. The plant does the same job as any box shrub, evergreen, small leaved and tolerant of cutting, but it arrives already shaped. Ball diameters run from around 30 centimetres up to large advanced specimens, and the shape is then held with two trims a year.
The ball is held at whatever diameter it is clipped to, commonly 30 to 70 centimetres, with larger specimens available in bigger containers. In the ground, overall height sits close to the ball diameter. Left entirely unclipped the species would slowly reach roughly 1.5 to 2 metres tall and wide over many years.
About 15 to 25 centimetres a year, which is slow to moderate. That pace is an advantage in topiary because the outline drifts gradually rather than running away between cuts. Two trims a year, one in early spring and one in late summer, are usually enough to keep the surface tight and the profile even.
Full sun to part shade both work. Full sun gives the densest, tightest surface, which matters when the appeal of the plant is a clean clipped edge. In hot inland gardens some afternoon shade prevents leaf scorch and bronzing. Deep shade thins the growth out and the ball loses its crisp outline.
Yes. Established plants handle light to moderate frost without damage, which covers most temperate and cool temperate gardens including Canberra, Melbourne and the southern tablelands. Newly planted stock is more exposed, so water it well going into winter and mulch the root zone. Any frost burnt tips can simply be trimmed off in spring.
Yes, they are one of the better plants for a container. A pot 40 to 50 centimetres wide suits a single ball for a courtyard, entry or balcony. Use a quality potting mix, water once the top few centimetres dry out, and feed in spring and again in summer. Repot or refresh the mix every few years.
Trim twice a year with sharp shears, cutting lightly and often rather than hard. Feed in early spring with a slow release fertiliser and keep water up through summer. Mulch to about 50 millimetres, keeping it clear of the stem. Watch for box psyllid on soft new growth and treat early if the tips start to cup.
Buxus sempervirens English Box Topiary Balls are pre-clipped formal evergreen specimens, available in three mature sizes and ready to place. The tight, fine, dark green foliage holds a precise rounded form year-round and gives the classic formal topiary look that no other Buxus replicates. As one of our most consistently strong-selling products, our English Box topiary balls are well-shaped, well-rooted, and arrive in proportion to the pot size.
English Box performs best in cool to temperate climates and is slow growing at around 15 to 25 cm per year in good conditions, which is exactly why it holds sharp formal shapes so well. It thrives in full sun to part shade with well-drained, slightly acidic to neutral loamy soil, and is frost hardy, drought tolerant once established, and excellent in containers. Two light clips per year, in spring and again in late summer, keep the ball form crisp.
Use them flanking entrances, lining formal pathways, anchoring symmetrical garden beds, defining parterre and knot gardens, and in pairs in classic urns and decorative pots at front doors. Buxus sempervirens is the original topiary plant and remains the benchmark for traditional and contemporary formal design, with a level of finesse and density that fast-growing alternatives cannot replicate.
About Buxus sempervirens English Box Topiary Balls
Our English Box topiary balls arrive pre-clipped and ready to place at the size you order. The 30cm/33cm pots have ball diameters of approximately 30 to 45 cm, the 40cm/45L pots have ball diameters of 40 to 55 cm, and the 50cm/75L pots have ball diameters of 50 to 70 cm. They are well-rooted and in proportion to the pot.
English Box is slow-growing, adding approximately 15 to 25 cm per year once established in good conditions. This slow growth rate is one of the reasons it holds sharp formal shapes so well, and why mature pre-clipped specimens command a premium over seedling-grown stock.
English Box (Buxus sempervirens) has the smallest, finest leaves and the tightest formal texture, ideal for traditional parterres and clipped balls. Japanese Box (Buxus microphylla japonica) has slightly larger leaves, grows faster, and handles heat better. Shaggy Box (Buxus bodinieri) has soft, rounded leaves, much better blight resistance, and is the best choice for humid subtropical climates where English Box can struggle.
English Box performs best in cool to temperate regions including Victoria, the ACT, the NSW Southern Highlands and Central Tablelands, Tasmania, and the elevated parts of South Australia and Western Australia. In humid coastal or hot subtropical regions, consider Buxus bodinieri Shaggy Box or Japanese Box instead for better long-term performance.
Lightly clip in spring and again in late summer or early autumn to maintain the ball shape. Avoid pruning in the heat of summer or during frost periods. Use sharp shears for the cleanest formal finish, and step back regularly to check the symmetry of the form.
Yes. English Box is the classic potted topiary plant and pre-clipped balls look particularly striking in pairs at entrances and on terraces. Use a minimum 30L pot for the 30cm/33cm size and scale up from there, with a quality potting mix and a slow-release fertiliser applied twice yearly.
English Box can be affected by box blight, particularly in humid conditions where foliage stays wet. To reduce risk, ensure good air circulation around each plant, avoid overhead watering, and prune to maintain airflow through the canopy. In high-humidity regions, Buxus bodinieri Shaggy Box is a more disease-resistant alternative.
Rhaphiolepis indica 'Snow Maiden' is a compact evergreen shrub that delivers a fresh burst of fragrant pure white flowers from late winter into spring. The dense mounding habit and glossy dark green foliage give it a lush, polished year-round appearance.
Snow Maiden grows to just 1-1.5 metres tall and wide, holding a naturally tidy rounded form with minimal pruning. The compact size makes it an excellent choice for low clipped hedges, borders, mass plantings, and containers, and it works well as a standout specimen in mixed plantings. Small dark berries follow the flowers.
Snow Maiden performs well in full sun to part shade and is drought hardy once established, thriving in coastal gardens and a wide range of well-drained soils. It is salt tolerant, low maintenance, and needs only moderate water while establishing.
About Rhaphiolepis indica 'Snow Maiden'
Rhaphiolepis indica 'Snow Maiden' grows to 1-1.5 metres tall and wide, forming a naturally compact dense mound.
Snow Maiden has a moderate growth rate of 20-40cm per year once established.
Snow Maiden produces masses of pure white flowers from late winter into spring, followed by small dark berries.
Yes. Snow Maiden is one of the best compact evergreen shrubs for low hedges, borders, and mass plantings, holding a tidy rounded form with minimal pruning.
Yes. Snow Maiden is both drought tolerant and salt tolerant once established, making it well suited to coastal gardens and low-water landscapes.
Plant 50-70cm apart for a continuous low hedge, or 80cm-1 metre for a softer informal border.
Snow Maiden thrives across most Australian climates in full sun to part shade, tolerating heat, coastal exposure, and a wide range of well-drained soils.
Ligularia reniformis carries enormous glossy kidney-shaped leaves that give a shaded garden the bold tropical texture usually only available in full sun. The Tractor Seat Plant is grown for foliage first, with tall stems of bright yellow daisy flowers through summer as a bonus.
Ligularia reniformis forms a clump 0.6 to 1 metre tall and 1 to 1.5 metres wide, spreading slowly at 10 to 20 centimetres per year. That steady habit makes it reliable as a mass underplanting beneath established trees, an edging along a shaded path, or a single specimen in a large pot.
This is a full shade plant. It wants consistent moisture and protection from hot afternoon sun, which scorches the leaves, and it is frost sensitive, so in cold districts it needs a protected position. Given shade and water it is close to maintenance free.
About Ligularia reniformis
It forms a clump 0.6 to 1 metre tall and 1 to 1.5 metres wide. The individual leaves can reach 40 centimetres across, which is where the bold texture comes from.
The common name comes from the large round kidney-shaped leaves, which resemble the seat of an old tractor. The botanical name reniformis means kidney-shaped.
Yes. It performs best in full shade and will scorch in hot afternoon sun. It is one of the most useful foliage plants available for genuinely dark positions.
Tall stems of bright yellow daisy-like flowers rise well above the foliage through summer. The foliage remains the main feature for the rest of the year.
No. It is frost sensitive and may be damaged by frost. In cold districts plant it in a protected position, or grow it in a pot that can be moved under cover.
It wants consistently moist soil and does not tolerate drying out. Mulch well and water regularly through summer, particularly in pots and under established trees where roots compete.
Plant 0.8 to 1 metre apart for a continuous shaded groundcover mass. Closer spacing fills in faster but the clumps will crowd within a few seasons.
Laurus nobilis 'Miles Choice' is considered an improved form of the traditional bay tree, selected for its more compact, upright growth. This variety is known for producing denser, tidier hedging with less effort, which is why it has become one of our best-selling choices for structured residential and commercial landscapes.
Its dark green, glossy, aromatic foliage creates a strong, uniform backdrop that instantly elevates surrounding plantings and holds its shape beautifully year-round. It is ideal for clipped formal hedges, privacy screening, and pleached rows, responding exceptionally well to pruning and maintaining a clean, polished finish with regular trimming.
'Miles Choice' performs reliably in full sun to part shade and tolerates a wide range of conditions, including coastal and windy sites once established. The foliage is also edible, making it both a practical and ornamental option.
Low-maintenance, resilient, and highly refined, it is a go-to hedging tree for projects where structure, longevity, and a premium finish matter.
About Laurus nobilis 'Miles Choice' Bay Tree
Miles Choice grows to 4-6 metres tall and is most commonly maintained as a 2-4 metre clipped hedge. Its compact upright form holds a tighter shape than standard Laurus nobilis.
Miles Choice has a moderate growth rate of 30-50cm per year once established.
Miles Choice is an improved cultivar of Laurus nobilis with a tighter, more compact habit. The foliage is still fully edible and aromatic, but the plant produces denser, tidier hedges with less pruning than the standard form.
Yes. Like the standard bay tree, Miles Choice leaves are fully edible and can be used in cooking. Pick fresh leaves as needed for stocks, soups, slow-cooked dishes, and marinades.
Plant 60-80cm apart for a dense formal hedge, or 1 metre apart for a more relaxed screen.
Yes. Miles Choice performs well in large pots (60L+) and is a popular choice for formal entrances, courtyards, and balcony screening.
Trim two to three times through the warmer months, taking a little each time rather than one hard cut. Use sharp secateurs on individual stems so the large leaves are not sliced in half and left browning on the face of the hedge. Miles Choice reshoots readily from older wood, so an overgrown plant can be brought back into shape over a season or two.
Trachelospermum jasminoides 'Balls' is Star Jasmine grown and clipped into a dense evergreen sphere. The small glossy leaves sit tight on a woody framework, holding a clean rounded outline year round. White pinwheel flowers open in spring and carry a strong sweet scent right across a courtyard.
Ball specimens hold at about 1 to 1.5 metres tall and wide with light clipping. Full sun to part shade suits them, in any free draining soil. Growth is slow to moderate at 30 to 50 centimetres a year. They handle coastal exposure, light frost and dry spells once the roots are down.
Repeat them along a driveway, either side of an entry, or in pots on a terrace where a formal shape is wanted straight away. They read as structure in a planting scheme without the height of a hedge, and because the form is already trained, a new garden looks settled from the day it goes in.
About Star Jasmine Balls
They are Trachelospermum jasminoides, the common Star Jasmine, grown and clipped into a dense evergreen sphere on a woody framework. Instead of climbing, the plant is trained into a self supporting rounded shape. The foliage is small, glossy and dark green, and the plant carries scented white flowers through spring.
They hold at roughly 1 to 1.5 metres tall and 1 to 1.5 metres wide. Growth is slow to moderate at 30 to 50 centimetres a year, so a light clip once or twice a year keeps the ball tight at whatever size within that range suits the setting.
Full sun to part shade both work. Full sun gives the densest foliage and the heaviest flowering, while part shade produces slightly softer, more open growth and fewer flowers. Avoid deep shade, where the ball thins out and loses its outline. Morning sun with afternoon protection suits hot inland gardens.
Yes, and pots are one of the main uses. A container 50 to 60 centimetres wide with a quality free draining mix will hold a ball for years. Water more often than you would in the ground, especially in summer, and feed in spring and again in late summer. Refresh the mix every few years.
Yes, the foliage is held year round. The glossy dark green leaves take on a bronze tinge in cold weather and green up again in spring, but the plant never goes bare. That is what makes it useful as permanent structure in a scheme, particularly in winter once perennials have died back.
Flowering runs through spring, roughly September to November, and often carries into early summer in warmer districts. The white pinwheel flowers are small but produced in quantity, and the scent is strong on still evenings. Flowering is heaviest on plants in full sun that were not clipped hard just before bud set.
Clip lightly with hedging shears once after flowering and again in late summer if needed, taking only the new growth to keep the outline crisp. Water deeply in dry weather, mulch the base, and feed in early spring. The sap is milky and can irritate skin, so wear gloves when trimming.
Olea europaea 'Bambalina' gives the silver-green foliage and Mediterranean character of a mature olive on a naturally compact frame, without the size or the fruit drop that makes standard olives difficult in a small garden. It is the practical way to get the olive look into a courtyard.
'Bambalina' reaches around 4 metres if left entirely unpruned and is easily held at 2 metres or lower with light annual trimming, spreading 2 to 3 metres wide at a slow 20 to 40 centimetres per year. That slow steady growth is exactly what makes it reliable in pots and low formal hedges.
'Bambalina' is evergreen, drought tolerant once established, and handles light to moderate frost. It wants full sun and free-draining soil, and needs very little water or feeding once its roots are down, which suits low-maintenance and water-wise garden designs.
About Olea 'Bambalina'
'Bambalina' reaches around 4 metres tall and 2 to 3 metres wide if left completely unpruned. It is most often kept at 1.5 to 2 metres, which it holds easily with light annual trimming.
It is slow-growing at 20 to 40 centimetres per year. That slow rate is a benefit in pots and formal hedging, where it means far less trimming than a vigorous alternative.
Yes. Its compact habit and slow growth make it one of the best olives for large pots on patios, entries and courtyards. Use a free-draining mix and let it dry out between waterings.
'Bambalina' is grown as an ornamental and produces little to no fruit, which makes it far cleaner than standard olive varieties near paving, paths and entertaining areas.
Yes. Once established it is highly drought tolerant and needs only occasional deep watering through extended dry periods. Overwatering is a more common problem than underwatering.
Yes. Plant 80 centimetres to 1 metre apart for a low formal silver hedge. Its slow growth means the hedge holds its shape between trims far longer than most alternatives.
It handles light to moderate frost once established. In colder inland districts protect young plants through their first winter or grow them in pots that can be moved.
Olea europaea 'Correggiola' is an Italian oil olive from Tuscany, also sold under the name Frantoio. It makes a rounded evergreen tree with narrow silver-green leaves, a trunk that gnarls with age, and creamy white flowers in spring. The fruit is small to medium with a high oil content.
Full sun and free-draining soil are the requirements. It grows 30 to 60 centimetres a year to 4 to 6 metres tall and 3 to 4 metres wide, and it is drought tolerant once established. Mediterranean, warm temperate and dry inland climates suit it, and it accepts light to moderate frost.
Plant it in a home oil grove, an ornamental garden, a driveway avenue at 3 metres, or a large container on a terrace. It also clips into a hedge at 1 to 1.5 metre spacing. A buyer wanting a tree that carries a garden and produces a crop gets both from this one.
About Correggiola Olive
'Correggiola' is a Tuscan cultivar of Olea europaea grown mainly for oil, and it is the same variety many nurseries list as Frantoio. It carries small to medium fruit with a high oil percentage and a mild, well balanced flavour. As a tree it is upright when young and rounded with age.
It reaches 4 to 6 metres tall and 3 to 4 metres wide when grown as a tree and left to its own devices. In groves and gardens most growers keep it lower, near 3 metres, so the fruit stays within reach. Regular pruning holds it at whatever height the site suits without harming the crop.
Flowering is in spring, around October and November, with fruit setting over summer. Olives ripen from late autumn into early winter, roughly May and June, turning from green to purple black. Green olives for the table are picked earlier. Trees usually start bearing three to five years after planting.
'Correggiola' is self-fertile and will set a crop on its own, which is part of why it is planted so widely. Yields improve noticeably with a second variety nearby for cross-pollination, since olive pollen moves on the wind. In a home garden a single tree gives a useful harvest.
Yes. Once the root system is established, which takes about two years, it copes with long dry summers and is one of the more reliable trees for low water gardens. Regular water during flowering and fruit fill improves oil yield, so irrigation still pays if you are growing for oil rather than looks.
It grows well in a large container, and pot culture is common on terraces and around pools. Use a pot of at least 500 millimetres, a free-draining mix, and water consistently, since containers dry quickly. Feed in spring and root prune every few years. Expect a smaller tree and a lighter crop.
Prune in late winter or early spring, opening the centre so light reaches the inner wood where next season's fruit forms. Remove suckers from the base and any strong water shoots. Feed in early spring, water through flowering and fruit set, and keep mulch back from the trunk. Established trees need little else.
Olea europaea 'Del Morocco' is a hardy evergreen olive with glossy green leaves that flash silver underneath. It builds a round-topped canopy on twisted branches and carries creamy white flowers through spring and into summer. The fruit is large and dual purpose, used both for the table and for pressing.
Give it full sun, or part shade at a pinch, and soil that drains. Growth is 30 to 60 centimetres a year to 3 to 6 metres tall and 3 to 4 metres wide. It shrugs off wind, light to moderate frost and dry spells once established, and it resists most pests and disease.
It earns a place as a shelter tree, a shade tree over a seating area, a topiary or bonsai subject, or a feature in a Mediterranean garden. Set feature trees 3 to 4 metres apart. For a tough evergreen that also produces food, it does more work than most ornamental trees.
About Del Morocco Olive
'Del Morocco' is a cultivar of Olea europaea grown for both eating and oil. It carries larger fruit than most oil varieties, and the tree itself is notably tough. Foliage is glossy green above with silver undersides, and the canopy is round-topped with the twisted branch structure olives are known for.
It grows 3 to 6 metres tall and 3 to 4 metres wide, with the final height depending on soil, water and how often it is pruned. Left alone it forms a broad rounded head. Trimmed annually it holds easily at 2.5 to 3 metres, which keeps the fruit within reach from the ground.
Yes, within limits. It takes light to moderate frost once established and is grown through the cooler parts of Victoria, South Australia and inland New South Wales. Young trees are the vulnerable ones, so protect them for the first couple of winters in frost-prone gardens. Severe repeated frost will damage new growth.
Creamy white flowers appear from spring into early summer, roughly October to December, and are wind pollinated. Fruit sets over summer and ripens from autumn into winter, turning from green to black. Trees generally begin cropping three to five years from planting, with yields building as the canopy fills out.
Olives handle coastal conditions well, tolerating salt-laden wind and sandy soils provided drainage is good, and 'Del Morocco' is no exception. It is often used as a windbreak or shelter planting on exposed sites. Avoid low spots where water sits after rain, since waterlogged roots do more damage than salt or wind.
Yes. Olives respond well to clipping and this variety is regularly trained as a standard, a ball on a stem, or a bonsai subject. Cut in late winter or early spring, working in small stages rather than removing large limbs at once. Formal shapes need two or three light trims through the growing season.
Water through the first two summers, then only in prolonged dry weather. Feed in early spring with a complete fertiliser and top up the mulch, keeping it clear of the trunk. Prune in late winter to keep the centre open and the height manageable. Remove basal suckers whenever they appear.
Olea europaea 'Kalamata' is the famous Greek olive, valued for its large almond-shaped fruit with rich flavour and firm texture. Excellent for pickling or pressing for oil, it is equally prized as an ornamental evergreen with its silver-green foliage.
Kalamata Olive grows to 4-6 metres tall with a spreading open canopy that responds well to pruning and shaping. The silver-green foliage gives year-round interest, while small creamy-white flowers in spring support reliable fruiting. It suits feature planting, productive orchards, formal landscapes, and large pots.
Kalamata thrives in full sun and well-drained soil, with good drought tolerance once established. It is well suited to Mediterranean and dry climates across SA, VIC, NSW and WA. While it is self-fertile, planting with another olive as a pollinator improves yields.
About Olea europaea 'Kalamata' Olive
Kalamata Olive grows to 4-6 metres tall with a spreading open canopy. It can be kept smaller with pruning.
Kalamata Olive is slow to moderate growing, adding 20-40cm per year once established.
Yes. Kalamata is one of the best-known table olives, with large almond-shaped fruit ideal for pickling and curing. It can also be pressed for oil.
Kalamata is self-fertile and will fruit on its own, but planting with another olive variety as a pollinator improves fruit yields.
Yes. Kalamata Olive is highly drought tolerant once established and thrives in hot, dry Mediterranean-style climates.
Yes. Kalamata Olive grows well in large pots and is a popular choice for courtyards, patios, and formal entrance planting.
Kalamata Olive thrives in Mediterranean and dry climates across SA, VIC, NSW and WA, in full sun with well-drained soil.
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Olea europaea, the common olive, is a slow-growing evergreen with a dense rounded crown and leathery silver-green leaves. These are mature field-grown specimens carrying the thick, characterful trunks that only come with age. Small white flowers appear in spring, followed by fruit that ripens from autumn into winter.
Full sun and well-drained, neutral to alkaline soil suit it best. Annual growth is slow at 20 to 40 centimetres, and mature size sits at 4 to 10 metres tall and 4 to 10 metres wide. Frost tolerant once established, it handles light to moderate frost and is very drought hardy through Mediterranean and temperate Australia.
Trees of this size do the work of a landscape immediately, anchoring courtyards, entries, resort gardens and civic plantings. Space feature trees 3 to 4 metres apart, or 3 metres for an avenue. Where a garden needs weight and age from the first day, a mature olive is the shortest way there.
About Olive Tree (Ex Ground)
Ex ground means the tree has been grown in open ground rather than a container, then lifted with its root ball for transplanting. Field growing produces heavier trunks and better proportioned canopies than pot culture, which is why mature specimen olives are grown this way. Crated and cloud-pruned forms are offered alongside the standard grades.
Mature size is 4 to 10 metres tall and 4 to 10 metres wide, depending on age, soil and pruning. Ex ground specimens are already well advanced, typically standing 3.2 to 5.5 metres, so most of the height is there from the outset. Ongoing pruning can hold them at whatever size the site allows.
Olives are slow growers, putting on roughly 20 to 40 centimetres a year once settled, and less in dry or poor conditions. That slow rate is why mature trunks command attention and why an advanced specimen is the usual way to get an established look. It also means a planted olive stays in scale for decades.
Yes. Olea europaea sets small white flowers in spring and fruit that ripens through autumn and winter. Trees generally begin bearing three to five years after planting, though some take ten years or more before cropping properly. Fruit drop can stain paving, so set trees back from light-coloured hard surfaces if that matters.
Established olives handle light to moderate frost without damage and are grown through the cooler inland districts of Victoria, South Australia and New South Wales. Hard, repeated frost can burn young growth, and newly planted trees are the most exposed. Warm dry summers and cool winters are the conditions this species evolved for.
Large olives can be grown in containers, though a tree of this size needs a substantial pot, at least 800 millimetres across and equally deep, with free-draining mix and reliable irrigation. Growth slows further and the canopy stays smaller. Root prune and refresh the mix every three to four years to keep the tree healthy.
Water deeply and infrequently through the first two years while roots move into the surrounding soil, then only in long dry spells. Prune in late winter to keep the centre open and the shape balanced, and remove suckers from the base. Feed annually in spring. Avoid constant watering and poorly drained ground.
