Most loved for its fine, fern-like foliage that casts cool dappled shade, brilliant golden autumn colour, and strong performance as a tough urban tree.
Approximate only. Minimum height important? Confirm with us.
Height guide disclaimer: Height ranges are approximate only. As living products, plant heights naturally vary between individual plants, batches, and seasons. No guarantee is given that supplied plants will fall within the stated range. If minimum heights are required, you mustconfirm current batch heights with Evergreen Trees Direct prior to purchase. Variation in height is normal and is not grounds for return, refund, replacement, or compensation.
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Gleditsia triacanthos 'Shademaster' is a large thornless honey locust grown for its fine pinnate foliage and even, spreading crown. The leaflets are small and ferny, so the canopy filters light rather than blocking it. Fresh green in spring and summer, the foliage turns yellow through autumn before falling.
It performs in full sun to part shade across cool temperate, temperate and semi arid districts, taking frost, heat, wind and compacted urban soil in its stride. Growth is 30 to 60 centimetres a year. Once established it is drought tolerant and needs little beyond formative pruning in the early seasons.
This is a park and street tree first. Councils plant it along roads and through car parks, and it works over lawns and paved courtyards where dappled shade is wanted without heavy litter. On a larger residential block it will shade a house within a decade of planting.
About Gleditsia 'Shademaster'
It is a named thornless cultivar of the honey locust, selected for a uniform upright branching pattern and an even, spreading crown. It suits Australian street and park planting because it takes hard urban conditions, casts light dappled shade, and carries fine ferny foliage that colours yellow in autumn before it drops.
At maturity it reaches 12 to 18 metres tall with a canopy spread of 8 to 15 metres, making it a genuine large shade tree. Allow that room at planting, well clear of buildings and overhead wires. On a restricted site, a compact honey locust selection is the better fit.
Around 30 to 60 centimetres a year, faster in deep soil with summer moisture. An advanced tree puts on useful canopy within three or four seasons, which is why it is specified where shade is needed reasonably quickly. Growth slows as the tree approaches full height, and the crown then broadens rather than climbs.
Very few. 'Shademaster' was selected in part for setting little to no fruit, so the long brown pods that litter the ground under seedling honey locusts are not an issue here. Small greenish flowers appear in spring and are barely noticeable. Autumn leaf drop is fine textured and breaks down fast.
Yes, it is one of the standard choices. It tolerates compacted soil, reflected heat off asphalt, exhaust pollution and root restriction, and it has no thorns to catch pedestrians. The high branching habit clears vehicles and sight lines once the tree has been formatively pruned. Give the roots adequate soil volume.
Usually yes. The leaflets are small and widely spaced, so light filters through and the shade beneath is dappled rather than dense. Lawn, groundcovers and shade tolerant shrubs all grow underneath, which is unusual for a tree of this size. That quality is why it is used over turf and seating areas.
Water deeply through the first two or three summers, then it manages on rainfall in most temperate districts. Formative prune in the early years to establish a single leader and a clear trunk. After that, remove deadwood in late winter. Mulch annually and feed in early spring if growth looks slow.
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Gleditsia triacanthos 'Shademaster' is a large thornless honey locust grown for its fine pinnate foliage and even, spreading crown. The leaflets are small and ferny, so the canopy filters light rather than blocking it. Fresh green in spring and summer, the foliage turns yellow through autumn before falling.
It performs in full sun to part shade across cool temperate, temperate and semi arid districts, taking frost, heat, wind and compacted urban soil in its stride. Growth is 30 to 60 centimetres a year. Once established it is drought tolerant and needs little beyond formative pruning in the early seasons.
This is a park and street tree first. Councils plant it along roads and through car parks, and it works over lawns and paved courtyards where dappled shade is wanted without heavy litter. On a larger residential block it will shade a house within a decade of planting.
About Gleditsia 'Shademaster'
It is a named thornless cultivar of the honey locust, selected for a uniform upright branching pattern and an even, spreading crown. It suits Australian street and park planting because it takes hard urban conditions, casts light dappled shade, and carries fine ferny foliage that colours yellow in autumn before it drops.
At maturity it reaches 12 to 18 metres tall with a canopy spread of 8 to 15 metres, making it a genuine large shade tree. Allow that room at planting, well clear of buildings and overhead wires. On a restricted site, a compact honey locust selection is the better fit.
Around 30 to 60 centimetres a year, faster in deep soil with summer moisture. An advanced tree puts on useful canopy within three or four seasons, which is why it is specified where shade is needed reasonably quickly. Growth slows as the tree approaches full height, and the crown then broadens rather than climbs.
Very few. 'Shademaster' was selected in part for setting little to no fruit, so the long brown pods that litter the ground under seedling honey locusts are not an issue here. Small greenish flowers appear in spring and are barely noticeable. Autumn leaf drop is fine textured and breaks down fast.
Yes, it is one of the standard choices. It tolerates compacted soil, reflected heat off asphalt, exhaust pollution and root restriction, and it has no thorns to catch pedestrians. The high branching habit clears vehicles and sight lines once the tree has been formatively pruned. Give the roots adequate soil volume.
Usually yes. The leaflets are small and widely spaced, so light filters through and the shade beneath is dappled rather than dense. Lawn, groundcovers and shade tolerant shrubs all grow underneath, which is unusual for a tree of this size. That quality is why it is used over turf and seating areas.
Water deeply through the first two or three summers, then it manages on rainfall in most temperate districts. Formative prune in the early years to establish a single leader and a clear trunk. After that, remove deadwood in late winter. Mulch annually and feed in early spring if growth looks slow.
Deciduous (Defoliates throughout colder months)
Gleditsia triacanthos 'Shademaster' is expected to grow 30cm to 60cm per year.
Gleditsia triacanthos 'Shademaster' works in an:
Gleditsia triacanthos 'Shademaster' is an Deciduous (Defoliates throughout colder months) Tree
Mature Height: 12m to 18m (approx.)
Mature Width: 8m to 15m
Gleditsia triacanthos 'Shademaster' is expected to grow 30cm to 60cm per year.
Gleditsia triacanthos 'Shademaster' is expected to grow 30cm to 60cm per year.
They are considered to have a:
Is Gleditsia triacanthos 'Shademaster' frost tolerant?
Gleditsia triacanthos 'Shademaster' is Frost Hardy – Survives heavy and frequent frost without damage.
Gleditsia triacanthos ‘Shademaster’ produces small, greenish-yellow, lightly fragrant flowers in late spring to early summer. These modest racemes are subtle and largely hidden within the foliage, with the tree’s ornamental value centred more on its fine, airy canopy than on its bloom.
Does Gleditsia triacanthos 'Shademaster' flower?
Flowering Period:
Flower Type:
Flower Colour:
Yellow
No
Gleditsia triacanthos 'Shademaster' is Native to Native to central and eastern North America, where Gleditsia triacanthos grows in river valleys and woodlands. ‘Shademaster’ is a thornless cultivar, bred for its even form and adaptability.
Its nectar-bearing flowers attract bees and small pollinating insects, while the open, dappled canopy provides ideal habitat for small birds seeking shelter and foraging space. The seed pods that develop later in the season offer food for wildlife and support insects that contribute to a healthy, biodiverse garden ecosystem.
Gleditsia triacanthos 'Shademaster' will thrive best in:
Gleditsia triacanthos ‘Shademaster’ performs best in well-drained loam or sandy loam soils and tolerates slightly acidic to slightly alkaline conditions. Tough and adaptable, it will grow in poorer soils but may struggle in heavy clay or waterlogged areas unless improved with organic matter and coarse material. Keep soil evenly moist during establishment, then move to deep, occasional watering as it matures to support excellent drought performance, stable branching and its signature filtered shade canopy.
Is Gleditsia triacanthos 'Shademaster' Drought tolerant?
As a young tree it requires regular watering, but once established ‘Shademaster’ develops excellent drought tolerance. Extremely hardy and adaptable, it performs well in hot, dry, exposed and urban environments and maintains its broad, filtered-shade canopy with very minimal supplementary watering.
Approx. 1.3m – 3.0m
Approx. 1.4m – 2.6m
Approx. 2.6m – 3.2m
Enquire for current heights
Photographs are not to scale. Heights are approximate and vary between individual trees.
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Enriched Planting Mix is a certified organic blend of Pure Magic Compost, composted animal manure, gypsum, composted coarse bark and a wetting agent, bagged in 30L. It is built to be dug through existing garden soil at planting time rather than used on its own, and the gypsum is what sets it apart from a plain compost.
Gypsum helps break up heavy clay so water and roots can move through it, while the compost and manure return organic matter and nutrient to tired ground. The coarse bark holds structure and keeps air around the root zone, and the wetting agent keeps moisture in the soil longer after rain or watering.
Use it when planting trees, shrubs, roses, fruit trees and exotic garden plants, particularly into clay. Dig a hole twice the width of the pot and 7 centimetres deeper, then mix roughly one third planting mix through the excavated soil. Spread 7 centimetres of that improved soil in the base before setting the plant in.
About Enriched Planting Mix
It is a blend of Pure Magic Compost, composted animal manure, gypsum, composted coarse bark and a wetting agent. Each part has a job. The compost and manure supply organic matter and nutrient, the gypsum works on clay structure, the bark keeps air around the roots and the wetting agent holds moisture in the soil.
It suits exotic garden plants, including roses, ornamental and deciduous trees, fruit trees, shrubs and perennials, and it earns its keep most on heavy clay sites. It is a planting mix rather than a potting mix, so its job is improving soil at planting time. Phosphorus sensitive natives are the one clear exception.
No, not for the phosphorus sensitive ones. The composted animal manure in this blend lifts phosphorus well above what Proteaceae such as Banksia, Grevillea, Hakea and Protea will tolerate, and the result can be leaf burn, dieback and plant death. Use the Native Potting Mix for those species, or plant them into unimproved local soil.
Yes. It is a certified organic product with no chemical additives, which is why the manure and compost in it are fully composted rather than raw. That makes it sound around fruit trees and vegetable beds, and it means you are adding genuine organic matter to your soil rather than a synthetic conditioner.
Work on roughly one third planting mix to two thirds of the soil you dug out of the hole. For a shrub out of a 200 millimetre pot that is only a few litres. An advanced tree going into a large hole will take considerably more. Judge the quantity by the volume of the hole rather than the size of the plant.
It is not a potting mix and should not be used on its own in a container. The blend is designed to be diluted through garden soil, and used straight in a pot it holds too much water and settles badly. For containers, reach for a premium potting mix, or the native mix if you are potting natives.
Yes. Water the plant well several hours before you plant it, then water thoroughly again once the hole is backfilled and the soil firmed down. That first deep watering settles the improved soil around the root ball and drives out air pockets. Keep the water up over the first few months while the roots establish.
Enriched Planting Mix is a certified organic blend of Pure Magic Compost, composted animal manure, gypsum, composted coarse bark and a wetting agent, bagged in 30L. It is built to be dug through existing garden soil at planting time rather than used on its own, and the gypsum is what sets it apart from a plain compost.
Gypsum helps break up heavy clay so water and roots can move through it, while the compost and manure return organic matter and nutrient to tired ground. The coarse bark holds structure and keeps air around the root zone, and the wetting agent keeps moisture in the soil longer after rain or watering.
Use it when planting trees, shrubs, roses, fruit trees and exotic garden plants, particularly into clay. Dig a hole twice the width of the pot and 7 centimetres deeper, then mix roughly one third planting mix through the excavated soil. Spread 7 centimetres of that improved soil in the base before setting the plant in.
About Enriched Planting Mix
It is a blend of Pure Magic Compost, composted animal manure, gypsum, composted coarse bark and a wetting agent. Each part has a job. The compost and manure supply organic matter and nutrient, the gypsum works on clay structure, the bark keeps air around the roots and the wetting agent holds moisture in the soil.
It suits exotic garden plants, including roses, ornamental and deciduous trees, fruit trees, shrubs and perennials, and it earns its keep most on heavy clay sites. It is a planting mix rather than a potting mix, so its job is improving soil at planting time. Phosphorus sensitive natives are the one clear exception.
No, not for the phosphorus sensitive ones. The composted animal manure in this blend lifts phosphorus well above what Proteaceae such as Banksia, Grevillea, Hakea and Protea will tolerate, and the result can be leaf burn, dieback and plant death. Use the Native Potting Mix for those species, or plant them into unimproved local soil.
Yes. It is a certified organic product with no chemical additives, which is why the manure and compost in it are fully composted rather than raw. That makes it sound around fruit trees and vegetable beds, and it means you are adding genuine organic matter to your soil rather than a synthetic conditioner.
Work on roughly one third planting mix to two thirds of the soil you dug out of the hole. For a shrub out of a 200 millimetre pot that is only a few litres. An advanced tree going into a large hole will take considerably more. Judge the quantity by the volume of the hole rather than the size of the plant.
It is not a potting mix and should not be used on its own in a container. The blend is designed to be diluted through garden soil, and used straight in a pot it holds too much water and settles badly. For containers, reach for a premium potting mix, or the native mix if you are potting natives.
Yes. Water the plant well several hours before you plant it, then water thoroughly again once the hole is backfilled and the soil firmed down. That first deep watering settles the improved soil around the root ball and drives out air pockets. Keep the water up over the first few months while the roots establish.
Ligularia reniformis carries enormous glossy kidney-shaped leaves that give a shaded garden the bold tropical texture usually only available in full sun. The Tractor Seat Plant is grown for foliage first, with tall stems of bright yellow daisy flowers through summer as a bonus.
Ligularia reniformis forms a clump 0.6 to 1 metre tall and 1 to 1.5 metres wide, spreading slowly at 10 to 20 centimetres per year. That steady habit makes it reliable as a mass underplanting beneath established trees, an edging along a shaded path, or a single specimen in a large pot.
This is a full shade plant. It wants consistent moisture and protection from hot afternoon sun, which scorches the leaves, and it is frost sensitive, so in cold districts it needs a protected position. Given shade and water it is close to maintenance free.
About Ligularia reniformis
It forms a clump 0.6 to 1 metre tall and 1 to 1.5 metres wide. The individual leaves can reach 40 centimetres across, which is where the bold texture comes from.
The common name comes from the large round kidney-shaped leaves, which resemble the seat of an old tractor. The botanical name reniformis means kidney-shaped.
Yes. It performs best in full shade and will scorch in hot afternoon sun. It is one of the most useful foliage plants available for genuinely dark positions.
Tall stems of bright yellow daisy-like flowers rise well above the foliage through summer. The foliage remains the main feature for the rest of the year.
No. It is frost sensitive and may be damaged by frost. In cold districts plant it in a protected position, or grow it in a pot that can be moved under cover.
It wants consistently moist soil and does not tolerate drying out. Mulch well and water regularly through summer, particularly in pots and under established trees where roots compete.
Plant 0.8 to 1 metre apart for a continuous shaded groundcover mass. Closer spacing fills in faster but the clumps will crowd within a few seasons.
Buxus microphylla var. japonica, sold as Japanese Box, is a dense evergreen shrub clipped here into clean topiary balls. The small, rounded, mid green leaves sit tightly along short stems, so the surface holds a crisp edge after cutting. Growth is naturally compact, which is what allows the ball shape to hold between trims.
It grows in full sun to part shade and accepts most soils that drain, from sandy loam through to improved clay. Cool temperate, temperate and subtropical districts all suit it, and established plants handle light to moderate frost. Growth runs about 15 to 25 centimetres a year, slow enough that the shape stays where you put it.
Balls are used to edge beds and paths, mark an entry, sit either side of a doorway, or repeat down a courtyard to give a planting rhythm. They also underplant feature trees neatly. Because the form arrives already grown, a bed reads finished from the day it goes in rather than years later.
About Japanese Box Topiary Balls
It is Buxus microphylla var. japonica grown on and clipped into a sphere. The plant does the same job as any box shrub, evergreen, small leaved and tolerant of cutting, but it arrives already shaped. Ball diameters run from around 30 centimetres up to large advanced specimens, and the shape is then held with two trims a year.
The ball is held at whatever diameter it is clipped to, commonly 30 to 70 centimetres, with larger specimens available in bigger containers. In the ground, overall height sits close to the ball diameter. Left entirely unclipped the species would slowly reach roughly 1.5 to 2 metres tall and wide over many years.
About 15 to 25 centimetres a year, which is slow to moderate. That pace is an advantage in topiary because the outline drifts gradually rather than running away between cuts. Two trims a year, one in early spring and one in late summer, are usually enough to keep the surface tight and the profile even.
Full sun to part shade both work. Full sun gives the densest, tightest surface, which matters when the appeal of the plant is a clean clipped edge. In hot inland gardens some afternoon shade prevents leaf scorch and bronzing. Deep shade thins the growth out and the ball loses its crisp outline.
Yes. Established plants handle light to moderate frost without damage, which covers most temperate and cool temperate gardens including Canberra, Melbourne and the southern tablelands. Newly planted stock is more exposed, so water it well going into winter and mulch the root zone. Any frost burnt tips can simply be trimmed off in spring.
Yes, they are one of the better plants for a container. A pot 40 to 50 centimetres wide suits a single ball for a courtyard, entry or balcony. Use a quality potting mix, water once the top few centimetres dry out, and feed in spring and again in summer. Repot or refresh the mix every few years.
Trim twice a year with sharp shears, cutting lightly and often rather than hard. Feed in early spring with a slow release fertiliser and keep water up through summer. Mulch to about 50 millimetres, keeping it clear of the stem. Watch for box psyllid on soft new growth and treat early if the tips start to cup.
Buxus sempervirens English Box Topiary Balls are pre-clipped formal evergreen specimens, available in three mature sizes and ready to place. The tight, fine, dark green foliage holds a precise rounded form year-round and gives the classic formal topiary look that no other Buxus replicates. As one of our most consistently strong-selling products, our English Box topiary balls are well-shaped, well-rooted, and arrive in proportion to the pot size.
English Box performs best in cool to temperate climates and is slow growing at around 15 to 25 cm per year in good conditions, which is exactly why it holds sharp formal shapes so well. It thrives in full sun to part shade with well-drained, slightly acidic to neutral loamy soil, and is frost hardy, drought tolerant once established, and excellent in containers. Two light clips per year, in spring and again in late summer, keep the ball form crisp.
Use them flanking entrances, lining formal pathways, anchoring symmetrical garden beds, defining parterre and knot gardens, and in pairs in classic urns and decorative pots at front doors. Buxus sempervirens is the original topiary plant and remains the benchmark for traditional and contemporary formal design, with a level of finesse and density that fast-growing alternatives cannot replicate.
About Buxus sempervirens English Box Topiary Balls
Our English Box topiary balls arrive pre-clipped and ready to place at the size you order. The 30cm/33cm pots have ball diameters of approximately 30 to 45 cm, the 40cm/45L pots have ball diameters of 40 to 55 cm, and the 50cm/75L pots have ball diameters of 50 to 70 cm. They are well-rooted and in proportion to the pot.
English Box is slow-growing, adding approximately 15 to 25 cm per year once established in good conditions. This slow growth rate is one of the reasons it holds sharp formal shapes so well, and why mature pre-clipped specimens command a premium over seedling-grown stock.
English Box (Buxus sempervirens) has the smallest, finest leaves and the tightest formal texture, ideal for traditional parterres and clipped balls. Japanese Box (Buxus microphylla japonica) has slightly larger leaves, grows faster, and handles heat better. Shaggy Box (Buxus bodinieri) has soft, rounded leaves, much better blight resistance, and is the best choice for humid subtropical climates where English Box can struggle.
English Box performs best in cool to temperate regions including Victoria, the ACT, the NSW Southern Highlands and Central Tablelands, Tasmania, and the elevated parts of South Australia and Western Australia. In humid coastal or hot subtropical regions, consider Buxus bodinieri Shaggy Box or Japanese Box instead for better long-term performance.
Lightly clip in spring and again in late summer or early autumn to maintain the ball shape. Avoid pruning in the heat of summer or during frost periods. Use sharp shears for the cleanest formal finish, and step back regularly to check the symmetry of the form.
Yes. English Box is the classic potted topiary plant and pre-clipped balls look particularly striking in pairs at entrances and on terraces. Use a minimum 30L pot for the 30cm/33cm size and scale up from there, with a quality potting mix and a slow-release fertiliser applied twice yearly.
English Box can be affected by box blight, particularly in humid conditions where foliage stays wet. To reduce risk, ensure good air circulation around each plant, avoid overhead watering, and prune to maintain airflow through the canopy. In high-humidity regions, Buxus bodinieri Shaggy Box is a more disease-resistant alternative.
Rhaphiolepis indica 'Oriental Pearl' is one of the best compact evergreen shrubs available for low hedges and borders. The glossy dark green foliage forms a naturally tidy rounded mound, and clusters of soft white to pale pink flowers appear from late winter into spring, followed by small dark berries.
Oriental Pearl grows to just 1-1.5 metres tall and wide, holding a neat uniform shape with minimal pruning. The compact form makes it ideal for low clipped hedges, narrow borders, mass plantings, and container planting, particularly where space is limited and a formal finish is wanted.
Oriental Pearl thrives across most Australian climates in full sun to part shade, tolerating heat, coastal exposure, salt spray, light frost, and a wide range of well-drained soils. It is both drought tolerant and salt tolerant once established, making it a reliable low-maintenance choice for coastal and low-water gardens.
About Rhaphiolepis indica 'Oriental Pearl'
Rhaphiolepis indica 'Oriental Pearl' grows to 1-1.5 metres tall and wide, forming a naturally compact dense mound.
Oriental Pearl has a moderate growth rate of 20-40cm per year once established.
Yes. Oriental Pearl is one of the best compact evergreen shrubs for low hedges, borders, and mass plantings, holding a tidy rounded form with minimal pruning.
Oriental Pearl produces clusters of soft white to pale pink flowers from late winter into spring, followed by small dark berries.
Yes. Oriental Pearl is both drought tolerant and salt tolerant once established, making it well suited to coastal gardens and low-water landscapes.
Plant 50-70cm apart for a continuous low hedge, or 80cm-1 metre for a softer informal border.
Oriental Pearl thrives across most Australian climates in full sun to part shade, tolerating heat, coastal exposure, and a wide range of well-drained soils.
Rhaphiolepis indica 'Snow Maiden' is a compact evergreen shrub that delivers a fresh burst of fragrant pure white flowers from late winter into spring. The dense mounding habit and glossy dark green foliage give it a lush, polished year-round appearance.
Snow Maiden grows to just 1-1.5 metres tall and wide, holding a naturally tidy rounded form with minimal pruning. The compact size makes it an excellent choice for low clipped hedges, borders, mass plantings, and containers, and it works well as a standout specimen in mixed plantings. Small dark berries follow the flowers.
Snow Maiden performs well in full sun to part shade and is drought hardy once established, thriving in coastal gardens and a wide range of well-drained soils. It is salt tolerant, low maintenance, and needs only moderate water while establishing.
About Rhaphiolepis indica 'Snow Maiden'
Rhaphiolepis indica 'Snow Maiden' grows to 1-1.5 metres tall and wide, forming a naturally compact dense mound.
Snow Maiden has a moderate growth rate of 20-40cm per year once established.
Snow Maiden produces masses of pure white flowers from late winter into spring, followed by small dark berries.
Yes. Snow Maiden is one of the best compact evergreen shrubs for low hedges, borders, and mass plantings, holding a tidy rounded form with minimal pruning.
Yes. Snow Maiden is both drought tolerant and salt tolerant once established, making it well suited to coastal gardens and low-water landscapes.
Plant 50-70cm apart for a continuous low hedge, or 80cm-1 metre for a softer informal border.
Snow Maiden thrives across most Australian climates in full sun to part shade, tolerating heat, coastal exposure, and a wide range of well-drained soils.
Pittosporum tobira 'Miss Muffet' forms a naturally tidy dome of glossy dark green foliage without ever needing to be clipped into shape, and carries clusters of intensely fragrant creamy-white flowers through spring. It is the low structural plant that does the work of a clipped hedge with none of the trimming.
'Miss Muffet' grows to just 0.5 to 1 metre tall and around 1.5 metres wide at 20 to 40 centimetres per year, holding density right to ground level. That compact scale suits low borders along paths and driveways, underplanting beneath feature trees, and mass planting in courtyards and civic beds.
'Miss Muffet' grows in full sun to part shade, tolerates light to moderate frost once established, and copes with coastal exposure and extended dry. It performs well in pots, and maintenance is limited to removing the occasional wayward shoot.
About Pittosporum tobira 'Miss Muffet'
'Miss Muffet' grows to 0.5 to 1 metre tall and around 1.5 metres wide, forming a naturally rounded dome. It is a true dwarf and will not need cutting back to stay low.
No. It holds a tidy rounded shape naturally. An occasional trim to remove a wayward shoot is all that is required, which is its main advantage over clipped alternatives.
Clusters of creamy-white flowers appear through spring and are strongly fragrant, with a scent often compared to orange blossom.
Yes. Plant 0.8 to 1 metre apart for a continuous low evergreen border. Because it is naturally dense and low, it forms a hedge line without formal clipping.
Yes. It performs in full sun through to part shade, which makes it useful for underplanting beneath established canopy trees where light is limited.
Yes. Pittosporum tobira tolerates salt-laden wind and sandy soils well, and 'Miss Muffet' is widely used in coastal courtyard and foreshore plantings.
Yes. Its compact rounded habit makes it an excellent pot plant for entries, balconies and courtyards. Use a free-draining mix and water regularly through summer.
Trachelospermum jasminoides 'Balls' is Star Jasmine grown and clipped into a dense evergreen sphere. The small glossy leaves sit tight on a woody framework, holding a clean rounded outline year round. White pinwheel flowers open in spring and carry a strong sweet scent right across a courtyard.
Ball specimens hold at about 1 to 1.5 metres tall and wide with light clipping. Full sun to part shade suits them, in any free draining soil. Growth is slow to moderate at 30 to 50 centimetres a year. They handle coastal exposure, light frost and dry spells once the roots are down.
Repeat them along a driveway, either side of an entry, or in pots on a terrace where a formal shape is wanted straight away. They read as structure in a planting scheme without the height of a hedge, and because the form is already trained, a new garden looks settled from the day it goes in.
About Star Jasmine Balls
They are Trachelospermum jasminoides, the common Star Jasmine, grown and clipped into a dense evergreen sphere on a woody framework. Instead of climbing, the plant is trained into a self supporting rounded shape. The foliage is small, glossy and dark green, and the plant carries scented white flowers through spring.
They hold at roughly 1 to 1.5 metres tall and 1 to 1.5 metres wide. Growth is slow to moderate at 30 to 50 centimetres a year, so a light clip once or twice a year keeps the ball tight at whatever size within that range suits the setting.
Full sun to part shade both work. Full sun gives the densest foliage and the heaviest flowering, while part shade produces slightly softer, more open growth and fewer flowers. Avoid deep shade, where the ball thins out and loses its outline. Morning sun with afternoon protection suits hot inland gardens.
Yes, and pots are one of the main uses. A container 50 to 60 centimetres wide with a quality free draining mix will hold a ball for years. Water more often than you would in the ground, especially in summer, and feed in spring and again in late summer. Refresh the mix every few years.
Yes, the foliage is held year round. The glossy dark green leaves take on a bronze tinge in cold weather and green up again in spring, but the plant never goes bare. That is what makes it useful as permanent structure in a scheme, particularly in winter once perennials have died back.
Flowering runs through spring, roughly September to November, and often carries into early summer in warmer districts. The white pinwheel flowers are small but produced in quantity, and the scent is strong on still evenings. Flowering is heaviest on plants in full sun that were not clipped hard just before bud set.
Clip lightly with hedging shears once after flowering and again in late summer if needed, taking only the new growth to keep the outline crisp. Water deeply in dry weather, mulch the base, and feed in early spring. The sap is milky and can irritate skin, so wear gloves when trimming.
Gleditsia triacanthos 'Elegantissima' is a compact, thornless form of the honey locust. It carries fine, ferny pinnate leaves on a dense, upright to rounded frame, so the whole plant reads as soft green texture. Foliage emerges fresh green in spring and turns clear yellow before dropping in autumn.
Full sun brings the best colour, though it accepts part shade. It is not fussy about soil provided drainage is reasonable, and it handles frost, heat, wind, alkaline ground and urban pollution. Growth is moderate at 30 to 60 centimetres a year, and it holds a tidy shape with little intervention.
Its restrained size suits courtyards, small front gardens, raised planter beds and narrow verges where a full sized honey locust would overwhelm the space. The open canopy casts light shade, so lawn and underplanting still grow beneath it. Landscapers use it where fine deciduous texture is wanted at manageable scale.
About Gleditsia 'Elegantissima'
It is a compact, thornless cultivar of the honey locust, grown for its fine ferny foliage and dense, neatly rounded habit. The leaflets are small and closely set, which gives the canopy a soft, almost textile quality. It is deciduous, colouring yellow in autumn, and it is one of the few honey locusts small enough for a suburban block.
'Elegantissima' is a compact selection and in most Australian gardens settles at about 4 to 6 metres tall and 3 to 4 metres wide. The parent species is a far larger tree, reaching 12 to 18 metres tall and 8 to 15 metres wide, so size figures quoted for honey locust in general do not apply to this cultivar.
No. 'Elegantissima' is a thornless selection, unlike the wild form of the species, which carries branched spines on the trunk and limbs. That makes it safe to plant near paths, play areas and car parks where people brush past. Pruning and leaf clean up are straightforward, with no protective gear needed.
Deciduous. The fine leaflets appear in early to mid spring, hold soft green through summer, turn yellow in autumn and then drop. The small leaflets break down quickly and rarely need raking. Bare winter branching lets sun through to the ground beneath, which is useful on the north side of a house.
Small greenish yellow flowers appear in spring, usually through October and November. They are lightly fragrant and useful to bees but visually minor, and many gardeners never notice them. Seed pods can follow on mature plants, though this compact form sets few. The tree is grown for foliage, not bloom.
Once established it copes well with dry periods, and honey locusts are among the more resilient deciduous trees in hot inland conditions. Through the first two summers it needs regular deep watering to build roots. In prolonged drought a mature tree may shed leaves early, then return normally the following spring.
Water deeply once or twice a week through the establishment years, then taper off. Mulch the root zone each spring and add a general purpose fertiliser at the same time. Prune in late winter while the tree is dormant, removing crossing or damaged branches to keep the canopy open. It rarely needs more than that.
Gleditsia triacanthos 'Sunburst' flushes bright golden-yellow new foliage that ages to fresh green, so the canopy carries a two-tone glow right through the growing season. It is thornless and podless, which removes the mess and hazard that rule the straight species out of most gardens.
'Sunburst' grows to 10 to 15 metres tall and 8 to 15 metres wide at 30 to 60 centimetres per year, forming an open vase-shaped canopy of fine compound leaves. The foliage is so finely divided that it casts light dappled shade, which means lawn and understorey planting still thrive underneath.
'Sunburst' is frost hardy, surviving heavy and frequent frost without damage, and tolerates drought, compacted urban soils, salt and pollution once established. It grows in full sun to part shade and drops tiny leaflets that need no raking, which is why councils specify it so heavily.
About Gleditsia triacanthos 'Sunburst'
'Sunburst' reaches 10 to 15 metres tall and 8 to 15 metres wide, forming an open vase-shaped canopy. It suits streets, avenues, parks and larger gardens.
Yes. 'Sunburst' is a thornless selection and also does not set seed pods, unlike the wild Honey Locust which carries large branched thorns and heavy pod litter.
New growth emerges bright golden-yellow before maturing to fresh green. Flushes continue through the growing season, so the canopy always carries both tones at once.
Yes. The finely divided leaflets cast light dappled shade rather than dense shadow, so lawn and understorey planting continue to perform beneath the canopy.
No. The leaflets are very small and break down quickly into lawn and garden beds without raking, which is a significant advantage over broad-leaved shade trees.
Yes. It survives heavy and frequent frost without damage and also tolerates drought, salt, pollution and compacted urban soils once established.
Plant 8 to 10 metres apart for an avenue where canopies will meet, and keep trees clear of paving and underground services.
Acer palmatum, commonly known as Japanese Maple, is a deciduous feature tree valued for its palmate leaves and vibrant autumn colour. Native to Japan, Korea, and China, it is one of our best-selling feature trees at Evergreen Trees Direct. It suits modern garden designs and works well in both pots for smaller gardens and as an avenue planting in larger landscapes.
This low-maintenance tree prefers slightly moist, fertile soil but is adaptable to a wide range of soil types. Despite the common belief that it only thrives in cooler climates, Japanese Maple performs well in warmer areas when protected from all-day direct sunlight to prevent leaf scorch. It should be pruned in late winter or early spring to maintain shape.
Mature height ranges from 4 to 8 metres, with a width of 3 to 6 metres. Its elegant form, seasonal colour, and versatility make it an ideal choice for feature planting in residential and landscape settings.
Choosing your Japanese Maple. The standard Acer palmatum species is the versatile all-rounder, with classic palmate leaves that turn red and gold in autumn. If you want a specific look, consider its cultivars: 'Atropurpureum' for rich red-purple foliage all season, 'Osakazuki' for brilliant scarlet autumn colour, 'Seiryu' for an upright laceleaf form, or 'Inaba Shidare' for a cascading weeping laceleaf habit. All thrive in the same cool to temperate Australian climates.
About Acer palmatum Japanese Maple
The standard Acer palmatum species grows to 4-8 metres tall and 3-6 metres wide, with an elegant rounded canopy.
Japanese Maple has a moderate growth rate of 30-50cm per year once established.
Japanese Maple performs best in cool to temperate regions including VIC, NSW Southern Highlands, Tasmania, ACT, and elevated parts of SA and WA. In warmer climates, plant in part shade to prevent leaf scorch.
Foliage shifts to vibrant red, orange, and gold in late autumn, typically May to June in southern Australia and April to May in NSW.
Yes. Japanese Maple is excellent in large pots (60L+) and is a popular choice for courtyards, balconies, and feature planting.
This is the standard species, which produces green spring foliage transitioning to red and gold in autumn. For specific habits or colours, look at 'Atropurpureum' (rich red-purple foliage), 'Osakazuki' (brilliant scarlet autumn), 'Seiryu' (upright laceleaf), or 'Inaba Shidare' (cascading weeping laceleaf).
Prune in late winter or early spring while the tree is dormant. Take out dead, crossing, or congested branches to open up the canopy and show off the layered branch structure. Keep cuts small and avoid heavy reductions, as Japanese Maple has a naturally elegant shape and responds poorly to hard pruning. Removing lower limbs on a young tree helps develop a clean trunk.
Quercus acutissima, the Sawtooth Oak, is a deciduous oak with narrow, bristle toothed leaves that look more like a sweet chestnut than a classic oak. The canopy starts pyramidal and broadens into a heavy rounded crown. Foliage turns clear golden yellow in autumn, and mature trees carry acorns in shaggy fringed cups.
It takes full sun, tolerates light shade and grows on clay or loam without fuss, provided the site is not waterlogged. Growth is moderate at 40 to 70 centimetres a year, reaching 10 to 15 metres tall with a broad 15 to 20 metre spread. Frost hardy, and drought tolerant once settled.
This is a tree for parks, school grounds, large rural gardens and biodiversity corridors, anywhere there is room for a wide crown and a genuine pool of summer shade. Heavy acorn crops feed native birds and stock. Given the space it needs, it delivers shade and habitat with almost no upkeep.
About Sawtooth Oak
Quercus acutissima is a deciduous oak from east Asia, named for the bristle tipped teeth along its narrow leaves. The foliage looks closer to a sweet chestnut than a European oak. It forms a broad rounded shade canopy, colours golden yellow in autumn and bears distinctive acorns in fringed, mossy looking cups.
Mature trees reach about 10 to 15 metres tall with a broad spread of 15 to 20 metres, so width is the figure that governs where it can go. Young trees are narrow and pyramidal and only widen out after a decade or two. Plan the position around the mature crown, not the nursery tree.
Moderate, around 40 to 70 centimetres a year, which is quick for an oak. Establishment is helped considerably by deep watering through the first two summers. Growth slows as the crown broadens, and useful shade is generally available within about eight to ten years of planting an advanced specimen.
It is deciduous. Leaves turn clear golden yellow through autumn, roughly April to May, then brown and fall, and some dry leaves may hang on into early winter on younger trees. New growth flushes in spring alongside inconspicuous yellow catkins. Bare winter branches let sun reach whatever is planted beneath.
Yes, and often heavily once trees reach about ten years old. The acorns are large and sit in a shaggy fringed cup, and they feed cockatoos, parrots and livestock. Drop is worth thinking about over paths, pools and parked cars, which is one reason the tree suits parks and open ground.
It performs across temperate, cool temperate and warm temperate districts, taking in most of Victoria, Tasmania, the ACT, inland New South Wales, the Adelaide Hills and the south west of Western Australia. It tolerates heat and dry spells once established but colours best where autumn nights are cool. Tropical areas are unsuitable.
Water deeply once a week through the first two summers, then taper off as the roots reach down. Mulch a wide ring around the trunk and keep grass off it. Formative pruning in the first few winters sets a single strong leader and lifts the lower limbs for clearance. Mature trees need almost nothing.
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Gleditsia triacanthos 'Shademaster' is a large thornless honey locust grown for its fine pinnate foliage and even, spreading crown. The leaflets are small and ferny, so the canopy filters light rather than blocking it. Fresh green in spring and summer, the foliage turns yellow through autumn before falling.
It performs in full sun to part shade across cool temperate, temperate and semi arid districts, taking frost, heat, wind and compacted urban soil in its stride. Growth is 30 to 60 centimetres a year. Once established it is drought tolerant and needs little beyond formative pruning in the early seasons.
This is a park and street tree first. Councils plant it along roads and through car parks, and it works over lawns and paved courtyards where dappled shade is wanted without heavy litter. On a larger residential block it will shade a house within a decade of planting.
About Gleditsia 'Shademaster'
It is a named thornless cultivar of the honey locust, selected for a uniform upright branching pattern and an even, spreading crown. It suits Australian street and park planting because it takes hard urban conditions, casts light dappled shade, and carries fine ferny foliage that colours yellow in autumn before it drops.
At maturity it reaches 12 to 18 metres tall with a canopy spread of 8 to 15 metres, making it a genuine large shade tree. Allow that room at planting, well clear of buildings and overhead wires. On a restricted site, a compact honey locust selection is the better fit.
Around 30 to 60 centimetres a year, faster in deep soil with summer moisture. An advanced tree puts on useful canopy within three or four seasons, which is why it is specified where shade is needed reasonably quickly. Growth slows as the tree approaches full height, and the crown then broadens rather than climbs.
Very few. 'Shademaster' was selected in part for setting little to no fruit, so the long brown pods that litter the ground under seedling honey locusts are not an issue here. Small greenish flowers appear in spring and are barely noticeable. Autumn leaf drop is fine textured and breaks down fast.
Yes, it is one of the standard choices. It tolerates compacted soil, reflected heat off asphalt, exhaust pollution and root restriction, and it has no thorns to catch pedestrians. The high branching habit clears vehicles and sight lines once the tree has been formatively pruned. Give the roots adequate soil volume.
Usually yes. The leaflets are small and widely spaced, so light filters through and the shade beneath is dappled rather than dense. Lawn, groundcovers and shade tolerant shrubs all grow underneath, which is unusual for a tree of this size. That quality is why it is used over turf and seating areas.
Water deeply through the first two or three summers, then it manages on rainfall in most temperate districts. Formative prune in the early years to establish a single leader and a clear trunk. After that, remove deadwood in late winter. Mulch annually and feed in early spring if growth looks slow.
