The first six months in the ground decide what your tree does for the next twenty years. Get the hole, the soil and the water right and the tree races ahead.
The basic planting process
Dig the hole twice as wide as the rootball but no deeper than the rootball is tall. Roughen the sides of the hole so roots can push out rather than circle. Place the tree at the same depth it sat in the bag, level for the strongest start. Backfill with the native soil, not imported compost. Water in deeply, then mulch out to the drip line but keep mulch off the trunk.
Magnolia example
Sharp drainage, steady water. Magnolias love free-draining soil and consistent moisture through establishment. Mulch heavy, water deeply twice a week through the first two summers.
Olive example
Drainage above all else. Olives love lean soil and measured water. Plant on a slight mound, do not improve the soil, water deeply but only when the top 200mm of soil is dry.
Ficus Hillii example
Speed needs support. Fast hedges respond strongly to deep watering and heavy mulching in the first three months. Drip irrigation pays for itself if you have a long hedge.
Acer palmatum example
Shelter and moisture. Maples love a sheltered spot and consistent moisture in the root zone. Mulch heavily but never against the trunk.
Watering schedule for new trees
First month, deep water every two to three days. Summer planting is great too with morning and evening watering for the first two weeks. Second to fourth month, deep water once or twice a week. Fifth month onwards, deep water weekly in the warm months. Drop back to fortnightly through autumn and winter.
Two ways to set the tree up beautifully
Plant level for the strongest start, so the root collar sits at the surface. And use the native soil for backfill rather than heavy imported compost, so roots head straight out into the surrounding ground. Native soil and original planting depth are the two simplest moves you can make for a flying start.
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