Most loved for its tall, spreading form, deeply ridged bark, and reliable golden-yellow autumn foliage that makes it a durable feature or avenue tree.
Approximate only. Minimum height important? Confirm with us.
Height guide disclaimer: Height ranges are approximate only. As living products, plant heights naturally vary between individual plants, batches, and seasons. No guarantee is given that supplied plants will fall within the stated range. If minimum heights are required, you mustconfirm current batch heights with Evergreen Trees Direct prior to purchase. Variation in height is normal and is not grounds for return, refund, replacement, or compensation.
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Celtis australis, the European Nettle Tree or Mediterranean Hackberry, is a deciduous shade tree with smooth grey bark, a straight trunk and a broad rounded canopy. The leaves are dark green, rough to the touch and finely toothed, turning clear yellow in autumn before dropping. Small dark fruit follow inconspicuous spring flowers.
It tolerates full sun to partial shade, poor and compacted soils, alkaline ground, urban pollution and heat, and it survives heavy and frequent frost without damage. Growth is about 50 to 80 centimetres a year. Once established it is markedly drought tolerant, which suits Mediterranean, temperate and dry inland districts across southern Australia.
It is planted as a street tree, in avenues, in car parks, on rural driveways and in civic landscapes where a durable deciduous canopy is needed. The high branching habit clears vehicles and pedestrians. Where conditions defeat softer species, this one keeps growing, which is why councils specify it so often.
About European Nettle Tree
Expect roughly 12 to 18 metres tall and 10 to 15 metres wide at maturity in good conditions, forming a broad, rounded canopy on a straight trunk. It grows about 50 to 80 centimetres a year, reaching useful street tree size within a decade. On dry, poor or shallow sites it stays smaller.
Deciduous. The dark green leaves turn a clear yellow in autumn and drop for winter, letting light through when it is wanted and shading heavily in summer. Leaf out is in mid spring. Autumn colour is dependable in cool districts and softer in mild coastal gardens, where leaves often fall while still green.
Very. It is native to southern Europe, North Africa and western Asia, all summer dry regions, and it holds foliage through heat and dry that defoliates other deciduous trees. Water through the first two or three summers to establish a root system, after which it copes on rainfall in most temperate parts of Australia.
It is one of the more reliable deciduous street trees for hot Australian conditions. It handles compacted soil, reflected heat, pollution and restricted root space, branches high enough to clear traffic, and holds a clean, even canopy. Fruit drop is light and the timber is strong, so limb failure is uncommon.
Roots are well behaved compared with poplars, willows or figs, but this is still a large tree and roots follow moisture. Allow at least 5 to 6 metres from footings, drains and paving, and more on reactive clay. A generous planting pit and deep, infrequent early watering encourage roots to go downward.
It performs best in temperate and Mediterranean districts, so Adelaide, Melbourne, Perth, Canberra, inland New South Wales and the Victorian and South Australian regions all suit it. It is equally at home in cold inland towns and in hot dry country. Humid tropical regions are the one climate where it is rarely used.
Water deeply through the first few summers, mulch the root zone and keep turf away from the base while the tree establishes. Formative pruning in the early years sets a single clear leader and good branch spacing. After that it needs very little, beyond removing dead or crossing wood in winter.
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Celtis australis, the European Nettle Tree or Mediterranean Hackberry, is a deciduous shade tree with smooth grey bark, a straight trunk and a broad rounded canopy. The leaves are dark green, rough to the touch and finely toothed, turning clear yellow in autumn before dropping. Small dark fruit follow inconspicuous spring flowers.
It tolerates full sun to partial shade, poor and compacted soils, alkaline ground, urban pollution and heat, and it survives heavy and frequent frost without damage. Growth is about 50 to 80 centimetres a year. Once established it is markedly drought tolerant, which suits Mediterranean, temperate and dry inland districts across southern Australia.
It is planted as a street tree, in avenues, in car parks, on rural driveways and in civic landscapes where a durable deciduous canopy is needed. The high branching habit clears vehicles and pedestrians. Where conditions defeat softer species, this one keeps growing, which is why councils specify it so often.
About European Nettle Tree
Expect roughly 12 to 18 metres tall and 10 to 15 metres wide at maturity in good conditions, forming a broad, rounded canopy on a straight trunk. It grows about 50 to 80 centimetres a year, reaching useful street tree size within a decade. On dry, poor or shallow sites it stays smaller.
Deciduous. The dark green leaves turn a clear yellow in autumn and drop for winter, letting light through when it is wanted and shading heavily in summer. Leaf out is in mid spring. Autumn colour is dependable in cool districts and softer in mild coastal gardens, where leaves often fall while still green.
Very. It is native to southern Europe, North Africa and western Asia, all summer dry regions, and it holds foliage through heat and dry that defoliates other deciduous trees. Water through the first two or three summers to establish a root system, after which it copes on rainfall in most temperate parts of Australia.
It is one of the more reliable deciduous street trees for hot Australian conditions. It handles compacted soil, reflected heat, pollution and restricted root space, branches high enough to clear traffic, and holds a clean, even canopy. Fruit drop is light and the timber is strong, so limb failure is uncommon.
Roots are well behaved compared with poplars, willows or figs, but this is still a large tree and roots follow moisture. Allow at least 5 to 6 metres from footings, drains and paving, and more on reactive clay. A generous planting pit and deep, infrequent early watering encourage roots to go downward.
It performs best in temperate and Mediterranean districts, so Adelaide, Melbourne, Perth, Canberra, inland New South Wales and the Victorian and South Australian regions all suit it. It is equally at home in cold inland towns and in hot dry country. Humid tropical regions are the one climate where it is rarely used.
Water deeply through the first few summers, mulch the root zone and keep turf away from the base while the tree establishes. Formative pruning in the early years sets a single clear leader and good branch spacing. After that it needs very little, beyond removing dead or crossing wood in winter.
Deciduous (Defoliates throughout colder months)
Celtis australis is expected to grow 50cm to 80cm per year (approx.).
Celtis australis works in an:
Celtis australis is an Deciduous (Defoliates throughout colder months) Tree
Mature Height: 15m to 25m (approx.)
Mature Width: 10m to 12m
Celtis australis is expected to grow 50cm to 80cm per year (approx.).
Celtis australis is expected to grow 50cm to 80cm per year (approx.).
They are considered to have a:
Is Celtis australis frost tolerant?
Celtis australis is Frost Hardy – Survives heavy and frequent frost without damage.
Celtis australis produces small greenish flowers in spring that are subtle and largely inconspicuous. While not ornamental, these blooms support early-season pollinators before developing into small, berry-like drupes.
Does Celtis australis flower?
Flowering Period:
Flower Type:
Flower Colour:
Not Applicable
No
Celtis australis is Native to Native to southern Europe and western Asia, where it grows in dry, rocky soils and open woodlands.
Its small summer fruits attract fruit-eating birds, while the dense canopy offers valuable shade and nesting habitat. The foliage also supports a range of caterpillars and beneficial insects, boosting biodiversity in both suburban and rural garden settings.
Celtis australis will thrive best in:
Celtis australis performs best in well-drained loam or sandy loam soils and tolerates slightly acidic to slightly alkaline conditions. It can manage poorer soils but may struggle in heavy clay or waterlogged areas unless improved with organic matter to enhance drainage. Keep soil evenly moist during establishment, then transition to deep, occasional watering as the tree matures and develops its characteristic high drought resilience.
Is Celtis australis Drought tolerant?
As a young tree it requires regular watering, but once established Celtis australis develops excellent drought tolerance. It thrives in hot, dry and urban environments, maintaining its broad, arching canopy with minimal supplementary watering.
Approx. 1.1m – 2.1m
Approx. 2.0m – 3.0m
Photographs are not to scale. Heights are approximate and vary between individual trees.
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Enriched Planting Mix is a certified organic blend of Pure Magic Compost, composted animal manure, gypsum, composted coarse bark and a wetting agent, bagged in 30L. It is built to be dug through existing garden soil at planting time rather than used on its own, and the gypsum is what sets it apart from a plain compost.
Gypsum helps break up heavy clay so water and roots can move through it, while the compost and manure return organic matter and nutrient to tired ground. The coarse bark holds structure and keeps air around the root zone, and the wetting agent keeps moisture in the soil longer after rain or watering.
Use it when planting trees, shrubs, roses, fruit trees and exotic garden plants, particularly into clay. Dig a hole twice the width of the pot and 7 centimetres deeper, then mix roughly one third planting mix through the excavated soil. Spread 7 centimetres of that improved soil in the base before setting the plant in.
About Enriched Planting Mix
It is a blend of Pure Magic Compost, composted animal manure, gypsum, composted coarse bark and a wetting agent. Each part has a job. The compost and manure supply organic matter and nutrient, the gypsum works on clay structure, the bark keeps air around the roots and the wetting agent holds moisture in the soil.
It suits exotic garden plants, including roses, ornamental and deciduous trees, fruit trees, shrubs and perennials, and it earns its keep most on heavy clay sites. It is a planting mix rather than a potting mix, so its job is improving soil at planting time. Phosphorus sensitive natives are the one clear exception.
No, not for the phosphorus sensitive ones. The composted animal manure in this blend lifts phosphorus well above what Proteaceae such as Banksia, Grevillea, Hakea and Protea will tolerate, and the result can be leaf burn, dieback and plant death. Use the Native Potting Mix for those species, or plant them into unimproved local soil.
Yes. It is a certified organic product with no chemical additives, which is why the manure and compost in it are fully composted rather than raw. That makes it sound around fruit trees and vegetable beds, and it means you are adding genuine organic matter to your soil rather than a synthetic conditioner.
Work on roughly one third planting mix to two thirds of the soil you dug out of the hole. For a shrub out of a 200 millimetre pot that is only a few litres. An advanced tree going into a large hole will take considerably more. Judge the quantity by the volume of the hole rather than the size of the plant.
It is not a potting mix and should not be used on its own in a container. The blend is designed to be diluted through garden soil, and used straight in a pot it holds too much water and settles badly. For containers, reach for a premium potting mix, or the native mix if you are potting natives.
Yes. Water the plant well several hours before you plant it, then water thoroughly again once the hole is backfilled and the soil firmed down. That first deep watering settles the improved soil around the root ball and drives out air pockets. Keep the water up over the first few months while the roots establish.
Enriched Planting Mix is a certified organic blend of Pure Magic Compost, composted animal manure, gypsum, composted coarse bark and a wetting agent, bagged in 30L. It is built to be dug through existing garden soil at planting time rather than used on its own, and the gypsum is what sets it apart from a plain compost.
Gypsum helps break up heavy clay so water and roots can move through it, while the compost and manure return organic matter and nutrient to tired ground. The coarse bark holds structure and keeps air around the root zone, and the wetting agent keeps moisture in the soil longer after rain or watering.
Use it when planting trees, shrubs, roses, fruit trees and exotic garden plants, particularly into clay. Dig a hole twice the width of the pot and 7 centimetres deeper, then mix roughly one third planting mix through the excavated soil. Spread 7 centimetres of that improved soil in the base before setting the plant in.
About Enriched Planting Mix
It is a blend of Pure Magic Compost, composted animal manure, gypsum, composted coarse bark and a wetting agent. Each part has a job. The compost and manure supply organic matter and nutrient, the gypsum works on clay structure, the bark keeps air around the roots and the wetting agent holds moisture in the soil.
It suits exotic garden plants, including roses, ornamental and deciduous trees, fruit trees, shrubs and perennials, and it earns its keep most on heavy clay sites. It is a planting mix rather than a potting mix, so its job is improving soil at planting time. Phosphorus sensitive natives are the one clear exception.
No, not for the phosphorus sensitive ones. The composted animal manure in this blend lifts phosphorus well above what Proteaceae such as Banksia, Grevillea, Hakea and Protea will tolerate, and the result can be leaf burn, dieback and plant death. Use the Native Potting Mix for those species, or plant them into unimproved local soil.
Yes. It is a certified organic product with no chemical additives, which is why the manure and compost in it are fully composted rather than raw. That makes it sound around fruit trees and vegetable beds, and it means you are adding genuine organic matter to your soil rather than a synthetic conditioner.
Work on roughly one third planting mix to two thirds of the soil you dug out of the hole. For a shrub out of a 200 millimetre pot that is only a few litres. An advanced tree going into a large hole will take considerably more. Judge the quantity by the volume of the hole rather than the size of the plant.
It is not a potting mix and should not be used on its own in a container. The blend is designed to be diluted through garden soil, and used straight in a pot it holds too much water and settles badly. For containers, reach for a premium potting mix, or the native mix if you are potting natives.
Yes. Water the plant well several hours before you plant it, then water thoroughly again once the hole is backfilled and the soil firmed down. That first deep watering settles the improved soil around the root ball and drives out air pockets. Keep the water up over the first few months while the roots establish.
Acer campestre, the field maple, is a medium to large deciduous tree with a rounded, densely branched canopy. The leaves are small and softly lobed, dark green through the warmer months, turning a clear golden yellow before they drop. Small clusters of yellow green flowers open in spring. The overall effect is neat and unfussy.
It grows in full sun to part shade and copes with compacted, alkaline and clay soils better than most maples. Growth is moderate, around 40 to 60 centimetres a year. Fully frost hardy and suited to cool temperate and temperate zones, it tolerates dry spells, wind and urban pollution once established.
Field maple is a standard choice for street plantings, car park islands, avenues and larger gardens where a long lived shade canopy is wanted. It also works in windbreaks and mixed shelter belts. For councils and developers it offers dependable structure and canopy cover with very little ongoing intervention.
About Field Maple
Acer campestre is the field maple, a deciduous tree from Europe and western Asia in the Sapindaceae family. It forms a rounded, densely branched canopy of small lobed leaves that turn clear golden yellow in autumn. It is a tough, adaptable urban tree, widely planted in Australia for shade, structure and reliable seasonal colour.
Field maple reaches 15 to 20 metres in height and 10 to 15 metres across at full maturity, forming a broad rounded crown. That is a large tree, so allow room away from buildings, service lines and boundaries. In smaller spaces it can be held lower with formative pruning, but it is better given room.
Growth is moderate, around 40 to 60 centimetres a year once the tree is established. Advanced stock planted from larger containers gives usable canopy within a few seasons. The rate slows in poor or very dry soil and picks up with steady water and an annual mulch through the first three summers.
It is deciduous. The leaves hold dark green through spring and summer, turn golden yellow in autumn, then drop over the colder months, leaving a clear branch structure through winter. That bare period lets winter sun through to buildings and lawns below, which is one reason it is used so often in street planting.
It performs best in cool temperate and temperate districts, including Victoria, Tasmania, the ACT, the southern tablelands of New South Wales, the Adelaide Hills and southern Western Australia. It will grow in warmer temperate areas given deeper soil and summer water. It is not suited to tropical or humid subtropical coastal conditions.
The root system is fibrous and comparatively well behaved for a tree of this size, which is why it is used as a street tree here and overseas. Even so, this is a large tree and roots follow moisture, so keep it a sensible distance from drains, paving and footings. Allow at least 4 to 5 metres from structures.
Water deeply once or twice a week through the first two summers, after which it largely looks after itself. Keep a mulch layer of 75 to 100 millimetres, held clear of the trunk. Feed with a balanced slow release fertiliser in early spring. Prune in late winter only, to remove dead or crossing wood and to lift the canopy.
Buxus microphylla var. japonica, sold as Japanese Box, is a dense evergreen shrub clipped here into clean topiary balls. The small, rounded, mid green leaves sit tightly along short stems, so the surface holds a crisp edge after cutting. Growth is naturally compact, which is what allows the ball shape to hold between trims.
It grows in full sun to part shade and accepts most soils that drain, from sandy loam through to improved clay. Cool temperate, temperate and subtropical districts all suit it, and established plants handle light to moderate frost. Growth runs about 15 to 25 centimetres a year, slow enough that the shape stays where you put it.
Balls are used to edge beds and paths, mark an entry, sit either side of a doorway, or repeat down a courtyard to give a planting rhythm. They also underplant feature trees neatly. Because the form arrives already grown, a bed reads finished from the day it goes in rather than years later.
About Japanese Box Topiary Balls
It is Buxus microphylla var. japonica grown on and clipped into a sphere. The plant does the same job as any box shrub, evergreen, small leaved and tolerant of cutting, but it arrives already shaped. Ball diameters run from around 30 centimetres up to large advanced specimens, and the shape is then held with two trims a year.
The ball is held at whatever diameter it is clipped to, commonly 30 to 70 centimetres, with larger specimens available in bigger containers. In the ground, overall height sits close to the ball diameter. Left entirely unclipped the species would slowly reach roughly 1.5 to 2 metres tall and wide over many years.
About 15 to 25 centimetres a year, which is slow to moderate. That pace is an advantage in topiary because the outline drifts gradually rather than running away between cuts. Two trims a year, one in early spring and one in late summer, are usually enough to keep the surface tight and the profile even.
Full sun to part shade both work. Full sun gives the densest, tightest surface, which matters when the appeal of the plant is a clean clipped edge. In hot inland gardens some afternoon shade prevents leaf scorch and bronzing. Deep shade thins the growth out and the ball loses its crisp outline.
Yes. Established plants handle light to moderate frost without damage, which covers most temperate and cool temperate gardens including Canberra, Melbourne and the southern tablelands. Newly planted stock is more exposed, so water it well going into winter and mulch the root zone. Any frost burnt tips can simply be trimmed off in spring.
Yes, they are one of the better plants for a container. A pot 40 to 50 centimetres wide suits a single ball for a courtyard, entry or balcony. Use a quality potting mix, water once the top few centimetres dry out, and feed in spring and again in summer. Repot or refresh the mix every few years.
Trim twice a year with sharp shears, cutting lightly and often rather than hard. Feed in early spring with a slow release fertiliser and keep water up through summer. Mulch to about 50 millimetres, keeping it clear of the stem. Watch for box psyllid on soft new growth and treat early if the tips start to cup.
Buxus sempervirens English Box Topiary Balls are pre-clipped formal evergreen specimens, available in three mature sizes and ready to place. The tight, fine, dark green foliage holds a precise rounded form year-round and gives the classic formal topiary look that no other Buxus replicates. As one of our most consistently strong-selling products, our English Box topiary balls are well-shaped, well-rooted, and arrive in proportion to the pot size.
English Box performs best in cool to temperate climates and is slow growing at around 15 to 25 cm per year in good conditions, which is exactly why it holds sharp formal shapes so well. It thrives in full sun to part shade with well-drained, slightly acidic to neutral loamy soil, and is frost hardy, drought tolerant once established, and excellent in containers. Two light clips per year, in spring and again in late summer, keep the ball form crisp.
Use them flanking entrances, lining formal pathways, anchoring symmetrical garden beds, defining parterre and knot gardens, and in pairs in classic urns and decorative pots at front doors. Buxus sempervirens is the original topiary plant and remains the benchmark for traditional and contemporary formal design, with a level of finesse and density that fast-growing alternatives cannot replicate.
About Buxus sempervirens English Box Topiary Balls
Our English Box topiary balls arrive pre-clipped and ready to place at the size you order. The 30cm/33cm pots have ball diameters of approximately 30 to 45 cm, the 40cm/45L pots have ball diameters of 40 to 55 cm, and the 50cm/75L pots have ball diameters of 50 to 70 cm. They are well-rooted and in proportion to the pot.
English Box is slow-growing, adding approximately 15 to 25 cm per year once established in good conditions. This slow growth rate is one of the reasons it holds sharp formal shapes so well, and why mature pre-clipped specimens command a premium over seedling-grown stock.
English Box (Buxus sempervirens) has the smallest, finest leaves and the tightest formal texture, ideal for traditional parterres and clipped balls. Japanese Box (Buxus microphylla japonica) has slightly larger leaves, grows faster, and handles heat better. Shaggy Box (Buxus bodinieri) has soft, rounded leaves, much better blight resistance, and is the best choice for humid subtropical climates where English Box can struggle.
English Box performs best in cool to temperate regions including Victoria, the ACT, the NSW Southern Highlands and Central Tablelands, Tasmania, and the elevated parts of South Australia and Western Australia. In humid coastal or hot subtropical regions, consider Buxus bodinieri Shaggy Box or Japanese Box instead for better long-term performance.
Lightly clip in spring and again in late summer or early autumn to maintain the ball shape. Avoid pruning in the heat of summer or during frost periods. Use sharp shears for the cleanest formal finish, and step back regularly to check the symmetry of the form.
Yes. English Box is the classic potted topiary plant and pre-clipped balls look particularly striking in pairs at entrances and on terraces. Use a minimum 30L pot for the 30cm/33cm size and scale up from there, with a quality potting mix and a slow-release fertiliser applied twice yearly.
English Box can be affected by box blight, particularly in humid conditions where foliage stays wet. To reduce risk, ensure good air circulation around each plant, avoid overhead watering, and prune to maintain airflow through the canopy. In high-humidity regions, Buxus bodinieri Shaggy Box is a more disease-resistant alternative.
Ligularia reniformis carries enormous glossy kidney-shaped leaves that give a shaded garden the bold tropical texture usually only available in full sun. The Tractor Seat Plant is grown for foliage first, with tall stems of bright yellow daisy flowers through summer as a bonus.
Ligularia reniformis forms a clump 0.6 to 1 metre tall and 1 to 1.5 metres wide, spreading slowly at 10 to 20 centimetres per year. That steady habit makes it reliable as a mass underplanting beneath established trees, an edging along a shaded path, or a single specimen in a large pot.
This is a full shade plant. It wants consistent moisture and protection from hot afternoon sun, which scorches the leaves, and it is frost sensitive, so in cold districts it needs a protected position. Given shade and water it is close to maintenance free.
About Ligularia reniformis
It forms a clump 0.6 to 1 metre tall and 1 to 1.5 metres wide. The individual leaves can reach 40 centimetres across, which is where the bold texture comes from.
The common name comes from the large round kidney-shaped leaves, which resemble the seat of an old tractor. The botanical name reniformis means kidney-shaped.
Yes. It performs best in full shade and will scorch in hot afternoon sun. It is one of the most useful foliage plants available for genuinely dark positions.
Tall stems of bright yellow daisy-like flowers rise well above the foliage through summer. The foliage remains the main feature for the rest of the year.
No. It is frost sensitive and may be damaged by frost. In cold districts plant it in a protected position, or grow it in a pot that can be moved under cover.
It wants consistently moist soil and does not tolerate drying out. Mulch well and water regularly through summer, particularly in pots and under established trees where roots compete.
Plant 0.8 to 1 metre apart for a continuous shaded groundcover mass. Closer spacing fills in faster but the clumps will crowd within a few seasons.
Viburnum tinus flowers through winter and into spring, when almost nothing else is in bloom, opening tight pink buds into flat clusters of white flowers that are followed by metallic blue-black berries. It is one of very few hedging plants that earns its place in the colder months.
Viburnum tinus grows to 2 to 4 metres tall and 2.5 to 4 metres wide at 30 to 50 centimetres per year, forming a dense evergreen mass right to ground level. It clips cleanly into a formal hedge, holds well as an informal screen, and is equally useful as a large-scale groundcover mass on banks.
This is one of the most forgiving hedging plants available, growing in full sun through to part shade and tolerating light to moderate frost once established. It performs from subtropical Queensland through Sydney, the tablelands, Melbourne, Gippsland, the Western District and Adelaide.
About Viburnum tinus
Viburnum tinus grows to 2 to 4 metres tall and 2.5 to 4 metres wide. It is most often held at 1.5 to 2.5 metres as a clipped hedge and holds density right down to ground level.
Flowering runs through winter and into spring. Tight pink buds open to flat clusters of white flowers, followed by metallic blue-black berries that persist and attract birds.
Yes. It is one of the better hedging plants for shaded positions, performing in full sun through to part shade. In deeper shade growth is more open but the plant stays healthy.
Plant 1 to 1.5 metres apart for a dense informal screen, or 80 centimetres apart for a tight formal hedge. For a groundcover mass on a bank, 1 metre apart works well.
Yes. It handles light to moderate frost once established and performs in cool tablelands districts, though young plants benefit from protection through their first winter.
It grows at a moderate 30 to 50 centimetres per year, which makes it easy to keep at a set height without constant trimming, unlike faster screening plants.
Prune straight after the main flowering finishes in spring. This preserves the following winter's flower buds while giving the plant a full growing season to fill back out.
Rhaphiolepis indica 'Oriental Pearl' is one of the best compact evergreen shrubs available for low hedges and borders. The glossy dark green foliage forms a naturally tidy rounded mound, and clusters of soft white to pale pink flowers appear from late winter into spring, followed by small dark berries.
Oriental Pearl grows to just 1-1.5 metres tall and wide, holding a neat uniform shape with minimal pruning. The compact form makes it ideal for low clipped hedges, narrow borders, mass plantings, and container planting, particularly where space is limited and a formal finish is wanted.
Oriental Pearl thrives across most Australian climates in full sun to part shade, tolerating heat, coastal exposure, salt spray, light frost, and a wide range of well-drained soils. It is both drought tolerant and salt tolerant once established, making it a reliable low-maintenance choice for coastal and low-water gardens.
About Rhaphiolepis indica 'Oriental Pearl'
Rhaphiolepis indica 'Oriental Pearl' grows to 1-1.5 metres tall and wide, forming a naturally compact dense mound.
Oriental Pearl has a moderate growth rate of 20-40cm per year once established.
Yes. Oriental Pearl is one of the best compact evergreen shrubs for low hedges, borders, and mass plantings, holding a tidy rounded form with minimal pruning.
Oriental Pearl produces clusters of soft white to pale pink flowers from late winter into spring, followed by small dark berries.
Yes. Oriental Pearl is both drought tolerant and salt tolerant once established, making it well suited to coastal gardens and low-water landscapes.
Plant 50-70cm apart for a continuous low hedge, or 80cm-1 metre for a softer informal border.
Oriental Pearl thrives across most Australian climates in full sun to part shade, tolerating heat, coastal exposure, and a wide range of well-drained soils.
Trachelospermum jasminoides 'Balls' is Star Jasmine grown and clipped into a dense evergreen sphere. The small glossy leaves sit tight on a woody framework, holding a clean rounded outline year round. White pinwheel flowers open in spring and carry a strong sweet scent right across a courtyard.
Ball specimens hold at about 1 to 1.5 metres tall and wide with light clipping. Full sun to part shade suits them, in any free draining soil. Growth is slow to moderate at 30 to 50 centimetres a year. They handle coastal exposure, light frost and dry spells once the roots are down.
Repeat them along a driveway, either side of an entry, or in pots on a terrace where a formal shape is wanted straight away. They read as structure in a planting scheme without the height of a hedge, and because the form is already trained, a new garden looks settled from the day it goes in.
About Star Jasmine Balls
They are Trachelospermum jasminoides, the common Star Jasmine, grown and clipped into a dense evergreen sphere on a woody framework. Instead of climbing, the plant is trained into a self supporting rounded shape. The foliage is small, glossy and dark green, and the plant carries scented white flowers through spring.
They hold at roughly 1 to 1.5 metres tall and 1 to 1.5 metres wide. Growth is slow to moderate at 30 to 50 centimetres a year, so a light clip once or twice a year keeps the ball tight at whatever size within that range suits the setting.
Full sun to part shade both work. Full sun gives the densest foliage and the heaviest flowering, while part shade produces slightly softer, more open growth and fewer flowers. Avoid deep shade, where the ball thins out and loses its outline. Morning sun with afternoon protection suits hot inland gardens.
Yes, and pots are one of the main uses. A container 50 to 60 centimetres wide with a quality free draining mix will hold a ball for years. Water more often than you would in the ground, especially in summer, and feed in spring and again in late summer. Refresh the mix every few years.
Yes, the foliage is held year round. The glossy dark green leaves take on a bronze tinge in cold weather and green up again in spring, but the plant never goes bare. That is what makes it useful as permanent structure in a scheme, particularly in winter once perennials have died back.
Flowering runs through spring, roughly September to November, and often carries into early summer in warmer districts. The white pinwheel flowers are small but produced in quantity, and the scent is strong on still evenings. Flowering is heaviest on plants in full sun that were not clipped hard just before bud set.
Clip lightly with hedging shears once after flowering and again in late summer if needed, taking only the new growth to keep the outline crisp. Water deeply in dry weather, mulch the base, and feed in early spring. The sap is milky and can irritate skin, so wear gloves when trimming.
Ulmus parvifolia, the Chinese Elm, is a semi deciduous shade tree with a vase shaped crown and gracefully arching outer branches. The small glossy serrated leaves turn yellow through bronze before falling, and the trunk sheds patches of bark to leave a mottled pattern of grey, cream and tan.
It reaches up to 15 metres tall and 8 to 10 metres wide, adding roughly 50 to 80 centimetres a year. Full sun to part shade suits it, in any reasonably drained soil. Once established it handles frost, drought, wind, salt spray and the compacted ground of urban sites.
Councils and landscapers use it as a street tree, a car park tree and a shade tree in parks, and it works in larger home gardens where a broad canopy is wanted. Formative pruning over the first few years sets the branch structure, after which it asks very little.
About Chinese Elm
Ulmus parvifolia is a semi deciduous shade tree from China, Korea and Japan, grown here for its vase shaped crown, small glossy serrated leaves and mottled bark that flakes away to reveal cream and tan patches. It is one of the more urban tolerant deciduous trees available in Australia and is planted widely in streets and parks.
It reaches up to 15 metres tall with a canopy 8 to 10 metres wide in good conditions. In restricted street plantings and shallow soils it usually settles well short of that. Allow at least 8 metres of clear space around the trunk if you want the full arching form to develop.
Around 50 to 80 centimetres a year, which is moderate to fast for a deciduous shade tree. Growth is quickest in the first ten years and slows as the crown broadens. Advanced trees in larger containers give a usable canopy sooner, which matters on projects where shade is wanted early.
It is semi deciduous. In cool districts it drops its leaves properly through winter after colouring yellow and bronze. In warmer coastal and subtropical areas it often holds much of its foliage, shedding briefly in late winter as the new leaves push through. Either way the bare period is short.
Yes. It tolerates salt laden wind better than most deciduous trees, which is why it turns up in beachside streetscapes along the east coast. Plant it behind the first line of dunes rather than in full frontal exposure, and water it through the first two summers while the roots establish.
Its roots are less aggressive than those of many large elms, but it is still a substantial tree. Keep it at least 4 to 5 metres from house footings, paving and service trenches, and further again from older drainage lines. In street verges use a root barrier or a structural soil cell.
Water deeply through the first two summers, mulch out to the drip line and keep the mulch off the trunk. Prune in late winter while the tree is bare, removing crossing limbs and lifting the canopy over paths. Once established it needs little beyond an occasional check for deadwood.
Fraxinus griffithii, sold as Evergreen Ash and also known as Himalayan Ash, is a small to medium tree with an upright trunk and a broad, open canopy. The pinnate leaves are glossy dark green and held through most of the year. Sprays of small creamy white flowers cover the crown in spring, which is the feature it is grown for.
Full sun to light shade suits it, in any soil with reasonable drainage. It performs best in warm temperate, subtropical and coastal areas, where the foliage stays on the tree year round. In cold inland districts it thins or sheds briefly, and young trees need shelter from hard frost. Growth is moderate at 30 to 50 centimetres a year.
A mature size of 6 to 8 metres tall by 4 to 6 metres wide puts it within reach of ordinary suburban blocks, courtyards, car parks and narrow street reserves where a larger ash would not fit. Planted 3 to 4 metres apart it forms an even avenue. You get shade and flower without the tree outgrowing the site.
About Evergreen Ash
Fraxinus griffithii is a compact ash from southern Asia, sold in Australia as Evergreen Ash and sometimes as Himalayan Ash. It has glossy pinnate foliage, an upright trunk and a broad, layered canopy, and it flowers heavily in creamy white during spring. It is grown as a smaller scale shade and street tree in warmer parts of the country.
In warm temperate, subtropical and coastal gardens it holds its foliage year round and behaves as an evergreen. In cooler inland districts it is better described as semi deciduous: the canopy thins over winter and the tree may drop most of its leaves for a short period before new growth returns in spring. The colder the site, the more leaf it sheds.
Expect 6 to 8 metres in height with a canopy 4 to 6 metres wide. That is roughly half the size of the deciduous ashes, which is the main reason it gets specified on suburban blocks and in constrained street reserves. The trunk lifts well, so usable space underneath is easy to maintain as the tree matures.
Flowering is in spring, generally September through November, when panicles of small creamy white flowers cover the outer canopy. The display lasts several weeks and is followed by winged seed. Flowering is heaviest on trees in full sun with a warm aspect, and lighter on young or heavily shaded specimens. Autumn colour is not a feature of this species.
It is at its best along the warm temperate and subtropical east coast, from Sydney north through the Northern Rivers to south east Queensland, and it also performs well in Perth and coastal South Australia. It handles coastal wind and moderate salt exposure. In cold tableland and alpine districts it is less reliable and young trees need frost protection.
Plant 3 to 4 metres apart for an even avenue or a row along a driveway. That spacing lets the canopies meet within a few seasons while each tree still develops a proper trunk. As a single feature tree, allow 3 to 4 metres of clear ground on each side so the full form can spread without being cut back.
Water deeply through the first two summers, then it manages on rainfall in most coastal areas. Feed with a general fertiliser in early spring. Prune after flowering to lift the lower branches and thin any crowded growth, and keep pruning light rather than hard. It is not prone to serious pests here, so most maintenance is mulching and formative shaping.
Lagerstroemia indica 'Biloxi' is a deciduous flowering tree with an upright vase-shaped frame and smooth cinnamon bark that peels to show paler wood beneath. Crinkled pale pink flowers cover the canopy through summer, and the dark green leaves finish the year in orange and red before dropping.
It flowers best in full sun and grows in most soils that drain, including improved clay. Height gain is 20 to 40 centimetres a year to a mature 3 to 4 metres tall and 2 to 3 metres wide. It is frost hardy when dormant, heat tolerant, and drought tolerant once established. Maintenance is low.
It is used as a feature tree in courtyards, as a flowering avenue along a drive, in mixed shrub borders, and in narrow beds beside a building. Spacing is 3 to 4 metres as a feature or 3 metres for an avenue. It gives summer flower, autumn colour and winter bark from a tree that fits a small garden.
About Biloxi Crepe Myrtle
Biloxi is a named crepe myrtle, a deciduous flowering tree in the Lythraceae family. It carries pale pink crinkled flowers through summer on an upright vase-shaped frame, with smooth mottled bark and strong autumn leaf colour. It is one of the cultivars selected for good mildew resistance and a clean trunk.
It reaches 3 to 4 metres tall and 2 to 3 metres wide at maturity, which keeps it within the scale of an average suburban garden. The habit is upright, so it takes up less width than height. The larger container sizes are supplied well advanced, giving immediate height at planting.
Flowering is through summer, broadly December to February, with the peak in the hottest weeks. The flowers are held in dense terminal panicles and hold on the tree for weeks at a time. Cutting off spent flower heads soon after they fade often brings a lighter second flush before the season ends.
Deciduous. The leaves colour orange and red in autumn, then the tree stands bare through winter, which is when the smooth cinnamon-toned trunk is at its best. New leaves come away in spring. That winter bareness is useful where you want sun reaching a window or courtyard in the cold months.
Full sun, and it matters more here than with most trees. Flowering falls away sharply in shade and the canopy becomes open and leggy. Six or more hours of direct sun gives dense flowering, better autumn colour and less risk of powdery mildew, which is worse in shaded, still positions.
Yes, once established after the first two summers. It handles hot dry summers and reflected heat well, which is why it is common in inland and western suburban streets. Watering through the flowering period will improve the display, but the tree will not fail without it in an average dry spell.
Prune in late winter while it is bare. Remove spent seed heads, thin crossing branches and take out basal suckers to keep a clear trunk. Avoid cutting all the main limbs back to stubs, which ruins the shape and gives weak growth. Mulch, water through establishment, and feed in early spring.
Tristaniopsis laurina 'Luscious' / Watergum Trees is a dependable choice for structured feature and street tree planting in urban and coastal landscapes. Its compact, upright form with dense, glossy evergreen foliage and striking copper-bronze new growth creates year-round visual interest and clean architectural lines.
Growing 7-10 metres tall with a 4-5 metre spread, it thrives in full sun to part shade and tolerates coastal exposure, urban pollution, and moderate drought. Its fragrant yellow flowers in late spring to summer add seasonal appeal.
For greater landscape impact, plant 'Luscious' with low-growing groundcovers or shade-tolerant shrubs beneath to enhance layered texture and biodiversity. Its tidy habit and pruning tolerance make it ideal for formal streetscapes, courtyards, or informal screening in medium to large gardens.
About Tristaniopsis laurina 'Luscious' Watergum
Luscious grows to 7-10 metres tall with a 4-5 metre spread, with a compact upright form.
Luscious has a moderate growth rate of 40-60cm per year once established.
Yes. Luscious is widely used by Australian councils as a street tree thanks to its tolerance of urban pollution, coastal exposure, and tight pavement conditions.
Yes. Tristaniopsis laurina is an Australian native, naturally found along watercourses on the east coast.
Fragrant yellow flowers appear in late spring to summer, typically November to January.
Plant 1.5-2 metres apart for a continuous canopy or row, or 3-4 metres for individual feature trees.
Luscious handles light to moderate frost once established, which suits most temperate and coastal gardens along the east coast. Young trees are more sensitive, so protect them through their first winter or two in areas that get regular heavy frost. In cold inland districts, plant in a sheltered position with good drainage and mulch the root zone to keep soil temperatures steadier.
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Celtis australis, the European Nettle Tree or Mediterranean Hackberry, is a deciduous shade tree with smooth grey bark, a straight trunk and a broad rounded canopy. The leaves are dark green, rough to the touch and finely toothed, turning clear yellow in autumn before dropping. Small dark fruit follow inconspicuous spring flowers.
It tolerates full sun to partial shade, poor and compacted soils, alkaline ground, urban pollution and heat, and it survives heavy and frequent frost without damage. Growth is about 50 to 80 centimetres a year. Once established it is markedly drought tolerant, which suits Mediterranean, temperate and dry inland districts across southern Australia.
It is planted as a street tree, in avenues, in car parks, on rural driveways and in civic landscapes where a durable deciduous canopy is needed. The high branching habit clears vehicles and pedestrians. Where conditions defeat softer species, this one keeps growing, which is why councils specify it so often.
About European Nettle Tree
Expect roughly 12 to 18 metres tall and 10 to 15 metres wide at maturity in good conditions, forming a broad, rounded canopy on a straight trunk. It grows about 50 to 80 centimetres a year, reaching useful street tree size within a decade. On dry, poor or shallow sites it stays smaller.
Deciduous. The dark green leaves turn a clear yellow in autumn and drop for winter, letting light through when it is wanted and shading heavily in summer. Leaf out is in mid spring. Autumn colour is dependable in cool districts and softer in mild coastal gardens, where leaves often fall while still green.
Very. It is native to southern Europe, North Africa and western Asia, all summer dry regions, and it holds foliage through heat and dry that defoliates other deciduous trees. Water through the first two or three summers to establish a root system, after which it copes on rainfall in most temperate parts of Australia.
It is one of the more reliable deciduous street trees for hot Australian conditions. It handles compacted soil, reflected heat, pollution and restricted root space, branches high enough to clear traffic, and holds a clean, even canopy. Fruit drop is light and the timber is strong, so limb failure is uncommon.
Roots are well behaved compared with poplars, willows or figs, but this is still a large tree and roots follow moisture. Allow at least 5 to 6 metres from footings, drains and paving, and more on reactive clay. A generous planting pit and deep, infrequent early watering encourage roots to go downward.
It performs best in temperate and Mediterranean districts, so Adelaide, Melbourne, Perth, Canberra, inland New South Wales and the Victorian and South Australian regions all suit it. It is equally at home in cold inland towns and in hot dry country. Humid tropical regions are the one climate where it is rarely used.
Water deeply through the first few summers, mulch the root zone and keep turf away from the base while the tree establishes. Formative pruning in the early years sets a single clear leader and good branch spacing. After that it needs very little, beyond removing dead or crossing wood in winter.
