Planting a tree is easier than most people think. With just a few simple steps (digging a hole, placing the tree, and backfilling), you can set your tree up for lasting success.

Following a few professional techniques can dramatically improve the chances your tree will thrive, but you don’t need to be an expert. Anyone can do it with these clear, straightforward steps.

Below is a professional guide (adapted for everyone) that makes it easy to achieve strong establishment and healthy trees for years to come.

Root Ball Guides

Before you begin, refer to the guide below to match the pot or bag size you’ve purchased. Use this as a reference when digging your planting hole.

Use these measurements when digging your planting hole. For best results, dig at least 10% wider than the listed dimensions to encourage strong root development.

30cm Pot: 33cm (W) × 30cm (D)
40cm/45L Pot: 44cm (W) × 41.5cm (D)
50cm Pot / 70L Pot: 55cm (W) × 41.8cm (D)
100L Bag: 50.6cm (W) × 52.8cm (D)
150L Bag: 66cm (W) × 55cm (D)
200L Bag: 71.5cm (W) × 60.5cm (D)
300L Bag: 88cm (W) × 63.8cm (D)
400L Bag: 99cm (W) × 66cm (D)
500L Bag: 122cm (W) × 66cm (D)
750L Bag: 134cm (W) × 69cm (D)
1000L Bag: 146.3cm (W) × 71.5cm (D)
2000L Bag: 176cm (W) × 82.5cm (D)

1. Foundations of Successful Tree Planting

Planting Depth: The Non-Negotiable Rule

The root flare (where the trunk widens at the base) must sit level with, or slightly above, the natural soil line.
Planting too deeply can suffocate roots and encourage collar rot, so always ensure the root flare is visible at or above ground level.

The Air Pocket Principle (Most People Don’t Know This)

Roots require oxygen as much as water.
When planting:

Break up clods so no large air voids remain around the root ball.
Backfill in 10 to 15cm layers, pressing lightly to collapse air pockets without compacting the soil.
Air pockets can dry out roots, cause uneven moisture around the root ball, and significantly delay establishment.

Soil Preparation: Think Structure, Not Fertiliser

Improve structure, not just nutrient levels.
Blend existing soil with 20% to 30% composted organic matter. Avoid overly rich mixes, which can create a "pot-in-ground" effect that limits root growth.
Never place fertiliser in the planting hole; it can burn new feeder roots.

Watering In: Why It Matters More Than the Hole Size

Apply 10–20L for 25–45L trees and proportionally more for larger stock.
Watering in helps settle soil, remove air pockets, and activate capillary pathways in the surrounding soil.

2. Season-by-Season Planting Tips (Exclusive Professional Insights)

SPRING: Optimal Growth, Higher Maintenance

Spring is ideal for planting, but the tree will enter immediate active growth.

Pro Tips

Increase watering frequency, as new roots may not keep up with rapid top growth.
Install a temporary shade cloth screen for sun-sensitive species to reduce leaf scorch during sudden warm spells.
Use wetting agents to help water penetrate evenly through warming soils.

SUMMER — Extra Care Needed

Planting in summer is possible with a few extra precautions and attentive care.

Exclusive Tips

Dig early in the morning to avoid exposing the root ball to hot air.
Pre-soak the planting hole and root ball before placing the tree.
Incorporate hydrogels or water-retention crystals in the backfill, making sure they are evenly distributed.
Mulch to a depth of 7 to 10cm, keeping the mulch clear of the trunk to prevent trapped moisture and heat.

AUTUMN: The Professional’s Quiet Favourite

Autumn offers warm soil + cool air = ideal for root establishment.

Autumn-Specific Advantages

Roots grow aggressively while the canopy slows down, which is perfect for establishment.
Soil biology remains active in autumn, improving nutrient availability for new roots.

Exclusive Tips

Apply mycorrhizal inoculants in autumn to enhance symbiotic root colonisation before winter.
Reduce nitrogen fertiliser and, if needed, use phosphorus-lean, root-focused formulations instead.

WINTER: Dormant, But Not Inactive

Winter planting works extremely well for deciduous trees and many evergreens.

Winter Tips

Avoid working with frozen or waterlogged soil, as this can trap water around the root zone and harm roots.
Insulate the root ball with mulch as a thermal buffer.
Use stakes only if required (windy sites, tall deciduous stock) and remove within 12–18 months.

3. Extra Professional Tips for Better Establishment

Root Teasing (But Only When Needed)

If roots spiral, lightly loosen outer circling roots so they grow outward.
If the root ball is well-structured, leave it intact.

Staking: Less Is More

Over-staking can weaken trunk strength over time.
Use soft ties and position stakes outside the root ball to avoid damaging roots.

Mulching: The Professional Way

Keep mulch in a donut shape, ensuring it does not touch the trunk.
Use composted pine bark or hardwood chips; avoid fine mulch that compacts.

Watering Routine

Water deeply but less often—the goal is to encourage roots to grow downward rather than stay near the surface.
Adjust for species, soil type, and season.

4. Final Checklist for Planting Any Tree

Identify the root flare before planting.
Prepare a hole twice as wide but not deeper than the root ball.
Backfill in layers to remove air pockets.
Water in thoroughly.
Mulch correctly.
Monitor moisture for 12 weeks minimum.
Adjust for seasonal pressures.

A Professional Guide to Planting Trees: Techniques, Seasonal Tips & Essential Insights